www.ourfavouritebooks.co.uk --- Your favourite books + my favourite books = Our Favourite Books
Home - Copyright - Contact - Links 




DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 



THE LIFE OF 

V 

DAVID LIVINGSTONE 

By THOMAS HUGHES 



Author of "TOM BROWN'S SCHOOL DAYS," "TOM 
BROWN AT OXFORD," "LIFE OF ALFRED THE 
GREAT," etc., etc. n< v< \C >< >« 



WITH AN INTRODUCTION 

By G. mercer ADAM 




A. L. BURT COMPANY, ^ ^ J' ^ 
^ ^ ^ PUBLISHERS, NEW YORK 



Copyright, 1903, 
By E. a. BRAINERD, 



1 CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 

PAGE 

Boyhood Days and Eably Life 1 



GHAPTER II. 
Stabt in Afbica— Kueuman 17 

CHAPTER III. 
KoLOBENG — Lake Ngami — The Zambesi 37 

CHAPTER IV. 
LnnrANTi and the Makololo 65 

GHAPTER V. 

LiNYANTI TO LOANDA 83 

CHAPTER VI. 

ACBOSS AFEICA — LOANDA TO QuiLEMANE. . .e 99 



CHAPTER VII. 

Home 124 

iii 



iv CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

PAGE. 

The Zambesi Expedition — To Linyanti and Back 135 

CHAPTER IX. 
The Universities Mission 157 

CHAPTER X. 
Recall — ^Voyage to India 167 

CHAPTER XI. 
Second Visit Home t... 178 

CHAPTER XII. 
Lakes Moeeo, Banqweolo, and Tanganyika.... 186 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Stanley 218 

CHAPTER XIV. 
To Unyanyembe with Stanley 233 

CHAPTER XV. 
Waiting at Unyanyembe 248 



CONTENTS. â–¼ 

CHAPTER XVI. 

FAQE. 

The Last Advance — Death 263 

GHAPTER XVII. 
Conclusion ' 283 

Appendix •••• •••••• •••••• ••• •.••.«• 305 



INTRODUCTORY NOTE. 



African development has made great strides 
since the pathetic, lonely death of the ^immortal 
Livingstone, in the little hut at Ilala, near Lake 
Bangweola, in the early summer of 1873. Much, 
nevertheless, is due to the intrepid missionary trav- 
eller for his long and unwearied labors in Central 
Africa and his years of patient exile, not only in 
carrying the Cross into the heart of Africa and in 
seeking to heal " the open sore of the world " in 
connection with the slave trade, but in pursuing so 
indomitably his geographical discoveries in the region, 
amid perils, fatigues, and privations and the pros- 
trating weariness of African fevers. Aside from his 
missionary labors, commerce and civilization owe 
him much for first grappling successfully with the 
geographical problems of the watershed of Central 
Africa and the sources of the Nile, and opening up 
to human ken well nigh a million square miles of 
land and lake region in the depths of the once Dark 
Continent. To-day if we know more clearly about 
the great mid-African Lakes and their watershed, 
and indeed about the whole vast region lying be- 
tween the Zambesi northward even beyond Uganda 
and the Albert Nyanza, it is to the early minute 

V 



Vi INTRODtJCTORY NOTE. 

researches of Livingstone and his toilful career as an 
explorer, supplemented by the investigations on the 
spot of Stanley, his succorer at Ujiji in 1872, when 
the lonely old man was lost to the ken of white 
men, an interesting account of which we have in 
the present volume from the appreciative pen of 
Judge Hughes. The story the delightful author of 
" Toui Brown's School Days " gives us of Living- 
stone is fascinating in its narration, as it is captivat- 
ing in its admirable record of the chief incidents in 
the dear old missionary's life of devotion and self- 
sacrifice in his successive visits to and prolonged work 
in Central Africa. With much love for his subject 
and the heartiest sympathy with the man and his 
career, Mr. Hughes quietly but tellingly relates the 
whole story of Livingstone's life and work, and gives 
many charming glimpses of the missionary and his 
character and the qualities which have won for him 
fame and endeared him to the world and his time. 
Nor could there well be a more attractive or inspir- 
ing theme than that of the long-time and faithful 
worker in the dreary wastes of an almost unknown 
Continent, spending and being spent in the service 
of his teacher, and doing much for civilization and 
the opening up of the country by a life of unceasing 
toil and unflagging energy until he fell exhausted at 
his post, committing himself and his work to the 
Lord. Here is narrated the entire story of his varied 
travels, and his humane work among the natives, with 
all the lucidly presented record of his discoveries and 
explorations that won fo^ him the plaudits of 



INTRODUCTORY NOTE. vii 

scientists and the honors and other gratifying recog- 
nitions of universities, important public bodies, and 
geographical societies. Judge Hughes tells the 
story to its enthralling close, with the death of the 
noble old man in his lonely hut in Africa, and the 
bringing, by faithful attendants, of his remains to 
the coast, for transportation to England and a tomb 
in Westminster Abbey. The biographer elucidates 
the story by the insertion throughout the text of 
many explanatory notes and other thoughtful, well- 
'jnformed comments. 

G. Mercer Adam. 



Then let us pray that come it may— 

As come it will for a' that — 
When man to man, the warld o'er, 

Shall brothers be for a' that." 

— BuRNa 



THE 

LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE 



CHAPTER I. 

BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LIFE. 
1813-40. 

"My own inclination would lead me to say as little 
as possible about myself." With these words the 
greatest explorer of modern times begins that ac- 
count of his missionary journeys and researches in 
South Africa which electrified England. The eager 
desire of his countrymen to know all they could 
about himself, induced him to modify his own in- 
clination so far as to devote six pages of his famous 
book to the history of his family, and of the early 
years of his own life up to the time of his sailing for 
the Cape at the age of twenty-three. This reticence 
is as characteristic of the man as are the few facts he 
does disclose. Foremost of these stands : "My 
great-grandfather fell at the battle of Culloden, 
fighting for the old line of kings, and my grand- 



2 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

father was a small farmer in Ulva, where my father 
was born." Next comes: "The only point of the 
family tradition I feel proud of is this — one of these 
poor islanders, when he was on his deathbed, called 
his children round him and said, *I have searched 
diligently through all the traditions of our family, 
and I never could find that there was a dishonest 
man amongst our forefathers. If, therefore, any of 
you should take to dishonest ways, it will not be 
because it runs in our blood. I leave this precept 
with you. Be honest.' " 

Since the days of Jonadab, the son of Rechab, it 
would be hard to find a more striking example of 
faithfulness to the ''family motto" than David's life 
furnishes. A more perfect example of a downright 
simply honest life, whether in contact with queens 
or slave-boys, one may safely say, is not on record on 
our planet. Happily, in this instance, it is not diffi- 
cult to supplement the meagre outline sketched by 
the man himself, from his own letters, and the remi- 
niscences of playmates and school-fellows,* 

*"Mother told me stories of her youth : they seem to come 
back to her in her eighty-second year very vividly. Her 
grandfather, Gavin Hunter, could write, while most common 
people were ignorant of the art. A poor woman got him to 
write a petition to the minister of Shotts parish to augment 
her monthly allowance of sixpence, as she could not live on it. 
He was taken to Hamilton jail for this, and having a wife 
and three children at home, who without him would certainly 
starve, he thought of David's feigning madness before the 
Philistines, and beslabbered his beard with saliva. All who 



BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY UFE. 3 

The son of the Culloden soldier, David's grand- 
father, finding the small farm in Ulva insufficient 
for the support of his large family, crossed into 
Lanark in 1792, and obtained a position of trust in 
the mills of H. Monteith & Co., at Blantyre, on the 
Clyde, above Glasgow. The French wars drew 
away all the sons but Neil into the army or navy. 
Neil, after serving an apprenticeship to David 
Hunter, tailor, and marrying his master's daughter, 
Agnes, in 18 10, made a small business for himself 
as a travelling tea-merchant. 

David Hunter was a great reader, especially of 
religious books, of which he had a small library, 
amongst them the works of the Rev. J. Campbell, 
South African missionary, "Travels Among the 
Hottentots," etc. These took a strong hold on his 
son-in-law Neil Livingstone, and in turn on his 

were found guilty were sent to the army in America, or the 
plantations. A sergeant had compassion on him, and said, 
'Tell me, gudeman, if you are really out of your mind. I'll 
befriend you.' He confessed that he only feigned insanity, 
because he had a wife and three bairns at home who would 
starve if he were sent to the army. *Dinna say onything 
mair to ony body,' said the kind-hearted sergeant. He then 
said to the commanding officer, 'They have given us a man 
clean out of his mind: I can do nothing with the like o' 
him.' The officer went to him and gave him three shillings, 
saying, 'Tak' that, gudeman, and gang awa' hame to your 
wife and weans.' 'Ay,' said mother, 'mony a prayer went up 
for that sergeant, for my grandfather was an unco godly man. 
He had never had so much money in his life before, for his 
wages were only threepence a day.' " 



4 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

grandson David, our hero, Neil's second son, a boy 
of remarkable powers, physical and intellectual. He 
was born on March 19, 1813, and before the age 
of ten had wandered over all the Clyde banks about 
Blantyre, and had begun to collect and wonder at 
flowers and shells. He had also gained the prize 
for repeating the whole 119th Psalm 'Vith only five 
hitches" ! But, hard as he was in body and mind, 
he had a soft heart. He was watchful to lighten his 
mother's work when he could, generally sweeping 
and cleaning for her, "even under the door-mat," as 
she gratefully recorded, with the thoroughness 
which never left him. Happily for us all, no char- 
acter is without its weak side, and even David would 
say, "Mother, if you'll bar the door, I'll scrub the 
floor for you," a concession this to the male preju- 
dices of Blantyre which he would not have made in 
later life. 

In another direction also a satisfactory gleam of 
human weakness is recorded, in that Davie not only 
climbed to a higher point in the ruins of Bothwell 
Castle than any other boy, but carved his name up 
there. 

At ten the boy went into the cotton-mills as a 
piecer, from which time he maintained himself, and 
found money for books such as only Scotch peasants 
are in the habit of buying voluntarily. Out of his 
first week's wages he bought Ruddiman's "Rudi- 
ments," and from that time pursued the study of 



BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LIFE. 5 

Latin with his usual steadfastness. His factory 
work began at six a. m. and lasted till eight p. m.^ 
when Davie went to his Latin, as soon as he had had 
his tea, until ten with the schoolmaster provided for 
the work-people by their employers, and afterward 
at home till midnight, or until his mother put out his 
candle.* But though he thus became able to read 
his Virgil and Horace easily before he was sixteen, 
his chief delight was in science. He managed to 
scour the country for the simples mentioned in the 
first medical treatise he became possessed of, Cul- 
pepper's "Herbal," "that extraordinary old work on 
astrological medicine." "I got as deep into that 
abyss of fantasies," he records, "as my author said 
he dared to lead me." It seemed perilous ground to 
tread on further, indeed the dark hint of selling soul 
and body to the devil loomed up before Davie's 
youthful mind. On one of his exploring rambles, in 
company with two brothers, one now in Canada and 
the other a clergyman in the United States — "from 
which we generally returned so hungry and tired 
that the embryo parson often shed tears" — ^they 
came on a limestone quarry. "It is impossible to 

*His parents were poor, and at the age of ten he was put 
to work in the factory as a piecer, that his earnings might aid 
his mother in the struggle with the wolf which had followed 
the family from the island that bore its name. After serving 
a number of years as a piecer he was promoted to be a 
spinner. Greatly to his mother's delight, the first half crown 
he ever earned was laid by him in her lap. 



6 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

describe the wonder with which I began to collect 
the shells in the carboniferous limestone. A quarry- 
man watched me with the pitying eye which the 
benevolent assume when viewing the insane. 'How- 
ever/ said I, 'did those shells come into those rocks?' 
'When God made the rocks He made the shells in 
them/ was the damping reply/' 

Without going more deeply into astronomical 
botany or other cabalistic lore than became a young 
Highlander whose father had left the Established 
Church and become deacon of an Independent 
Chapel, Davie managed in his Saturday half-holi- 
days, and the rare occasions when a flood of the 
Clyde stopped the mills — an occurrence which, in 
spite of his thrift, he could not help rejoicing in — to 
make notable collections of the flora of Lanarkshire, 
and the fossils of the carboniferous limestone, while 
devouring his classics^ and all the poets he was 
allowed to read. One can only regret that Deacon 
Neil's principles forbade novels, so that his great son 
never read the Waverley series till many years 
later. 

"My reading in the factory/' Livingston says, 
"was carried on by placing the book on a portion of 
the spinning jenny, so that I could catch sentence 
after sentence as I passed at my work. I thus kept a 
pretty constant study, undisturbed by the roar of 
machinery. To this I owe the power of completely 
abstracting my mind, so as to read and write with 



BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LIFE. 7 

perfect comfort amidst the play of children or the 
dancing and song of savages."* 

It must not be inferred, however, that Davie was a 
mere precocious bookworm, and averse to such sport 
as could be had. On the contrary, he delighted in 
rough play, ducking his comrades in fun as he swam 
past them in the Clyde, in whose waters he was a 
skillful fisher. In those early days the trout, and all 
other fish but salmon, were unpreserved. One day 
Davie caught a fine salmon. Luckily, brother 
Charlie wore on that day a large pair of the family 
trousers, in a leg of which the "muckle fush" was 
smuggled home. The deacon forgave them, after 
stern monition to take no more salmon — and the 
family ate this one for supper. 

At the age of nineteen he was promoted to be a 
spinner. The work was very severe, but so much 
better paid that he could now earn enough in the rest 
of the year to enable him to attend the Medical and 
Greek Classes in the winter, and Divinity Lectures 
in the summer, at Glasgow University. "Looking 
back now at that period of toil," he writes in 1874, 

*The thirst for reading so early shown was greatly stimu- 
lated by his father's example. Neil Livingstone, while fond 
of the old Scottish theology, was deeply interested in the 
enterprise of the nineteenth century, or, as he called it, "the 
progress of the world," and endeavored to interest his family 
in it, too. Any books of travel, and especially of missionary 
enterprise, that he could lay his hands on, he eagerly read. 
Some publications of the Tract Society, called the Weekly 



8 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

"I cannot but feel thankful that it formed such a ma- 
terial part of my early education, and were I to begin 
life over again, I should like to pass through the 
same hardy training." This simple and honest pride 
in poverty was strong in him. "My own order, the 
honest poor," were familiar words with him; and, 
when asked to change "and" for "but" in the last 
line of the epitaph which he put over his parents' 
grave in Hamilton Cemetery, pointedly refused. It 
ran: 

To SHOW THE RESTING-PLACE OF 

Neil Livingstone 

AND Agnes Hunter, his wife, 

and to express the thankfulness to god 

of their children 

John, David, Janet, Charles, and Agnes, 

for poor and pious parents. 

So David Livingstone grew up in his relations 
with the visible world of which he became so earnest 
and profound a student. But, after all, this is but 

Visitor, the Child's Companion and Teacher's Offering, were 
taken in, and were much enjoyed by his son David, especially 
the papers of '*01d Humphrey." Novels were not admitted 
into the house, in accordance with the feeling prevalent in 
religious circles. Neil Livingstone had also a fear of books 
of science, deeming them unfriendly to Christianity; his son 
instinctively repudiated that feeling, though it was some time 
before the works of Thomas Dick, of B rough ty- Ferry, en- 
abled him to see clearly, what to him was of vital significance, 
that religion and science were not necessarily hostile, but 
rather friendly to each other. 



BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LIFE. 9 

the husk of men's lives, and we must turn to the 
kernel — that which must hold converse of some kind 
with the invisible, whether we like it or not — ^before 
we can form a clear picture of any boy or man for 
ourselves. ''Great pains had been taken by my 
parents," he writes, "to instil the doctrines of Chris- 
tianity into my mind, and I had no difficulty in 
understanding the theory of free salvation by the 
atonement of our Saviour." This being so, the boy, 
though obedient, as a rule, to his father, and even 
trudging with pleasure the three miles to chapel with 
him on Sundays, resolutely preferred books of travel 
and science to 'The Cloud of Witnesses," or "The 
Fourfold State," which the deacon desired him to 
study instead of the dangerous literature to which he 
was given. "My difference of opinion reached the 
point of open rebellion, and his last application of 
the rod was when I refused to read Wilberforce's 
'Practical Christianity.' " This dislike of religious 
reading continued for years, but "having lighted on 
those admirable works of Dr. Thomas Dick, 'The 
Philosophy of Religion' and 'The Philosophy of a 
Future State,' it was gratifying to find that he had 
enforced my own conviction that religion and sci- 
ence were friendly to one another." Neither he nor 
any of his biographers give the date of this conver- 
sion, as it proved to be. It would seem, however, to 
have been connected, if it did not coincide, with the 
establishment by Deacon Neil of a missionary soci- 



10 TH£ LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

ety in their village. By this means David became 
acquainted with the history of Moravian missions, 
and the lives of Henry Martyn and other devoted 
men, amongst which that of Charles Gutzlaff, the 
medical missionary to China, impressed him most 
strongly.* He had already resolved to give to the 
cause of missions all he might earn beyond what was 
necessary for his subsistence, when an appeal by 
Gutzlaff to the Churches of Britain and America for 

*There can be no doubt that David Livingstone's heart was 
very thoroughly penetrated by the new life that now flowed 
into it. He did not merely apprehend the truth — the truth 
laid hold of him. The divine blessing flowed into him as it 
flowed into the heart of St. Paul, St. Augustine, and others 
of that type, subduing all earthly desires and wishes. What 
he says in his book about the freeness of God's grace draw- 
ing forth feelings of affectionate love to Him who bought 
him with His blood, and the sense of deep obligation to Him 
for His mercy, that had influenced, in some small measure, 
his conduct ever since, is from him most significant. Accus- 
tomed to suppress all spiritual emotion in his public writings, 
he would not have used these words if they had not been 
very real. They give us the secret of his life. Acts of self- 
denial that are very hard to do under the iron law of con^ 
^sciei lce, b)ecofne~ a wiiring service under the glow of divine 
love. Itwas the^glow of divine love as well as the power of 
consc ience thaTlrioved Livmgstone. Though' Ke seldom ~fe^ 
vealed his inner feelings, and hardly ever in the language of 
ecstasy, it is plain that he was moved by a calm but mighty 
inward power to the very end of his life. The love that 
began to stir his heart in his father's house continued to move 
him all through his dreary African journeys, and was still 
in full play on that lonely midnight when he knelt at his 
bedside in the hut in Ilala, and his spirit returned to his God 
and Saviour. 



BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LIFE. H 

aid in China, determined him to devote, not his sur- 
plus earnings, but his own Hfe to this work, and 
"from this time my efforts were constantly devoted 
toward this object without any fluctuation." At 
first he resolved to accomplish his object of going as 
a medical missionary to China by his own efforts, 
but, by the advice of friends, he joined himself to the 
London Missionary Society, whose object — ''to send 
neither Episcopacy, nor Presbyterianism, nor Inde- 
pendency, but the Gospel of Christ to the heathen — 
exactly agreed with my ideas. But I had never 
received a farthing from any one, and it was not 
without a pang that I offered myself, for it was not 
agreeable for one accustomed to work his own way 
to become in a measure dependent on others." His 
application was accepted, and he was summoned to 
London. 

On September i, 1838, he reached London, to be 
examined by the Mission Board, and at the Alders- 
gate Street office met Joseph Moore, the Tahiti mis- 
sionary, who had come from the West of England 
on the same errand. They became close friends at 
once, and nine years later Livingstone wrote : ''Of 
all those I have met since we parted, I have seen no 
one I can compare to you for true, hearty friend- 
ship." Both young men were in London for the 
first time. On their first Sunday they worshipped 
in St. Paul's; and on the Monday passed their ex- 
amination, and were accepted as probationers. On 



12 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

the Tuesday they began sight-seeing, and went first 
to Westminster Abbey. Livingstone was never 
known to enter it again ahve, but on April i8, 1874, 
his bones were laid there in the central nave, in the 
presence of a mourning nation, and of the faithful 
servants who had carried them from Lake Bang- 
weolo, through forest and swamp, and hostile and 
superstitious tribes.* 

After their provisional acceptance Livingstone 
and Moore were sent to Mr. Cecil's, at Chipping 
Ongar, in Essex, on a three months' probation. 
There part of their work was to prepare sermons, 
which, after correction by their tutor, were learnt 
by heart and delivered to the village congregation. 
One Sunday Livingstone was sent over to preach at 
Stanford for a minister who was ill. "He took his 
text," Mr. Moore reports, "read it out very delib- 

\ erately, and then — then — his sermon had fled. 

J Midnight darkness came upon him, and he abruptly 

*Joseph Moore writes: "On Monday we passed our first 
examination. On Tuesday we went to Westminster Abbey. 
Who that had seen those two young men passing from monu- 
ment to monument could have divined that one of them would 
one day be buried with a nation's — rather with the civilized 
world's — lament, in that sacred shrine? The wildest fancy 
could not have pictured that such an honor awaited David 
Livingstone. I grew daily more attached to him. If I were 
asked why, I should be rather at a loss to reply. There was 
truly an indescribable charm about him, which, with all his 
rather ungainly ways, and by no means winning face, attracted 
almost every one, and which helped him so much in his after- 
wanderings in Africa." 



BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LIFE. 13 

said, 'Friends, I have forgotten all I had to say,' and/}v 
hurrying out of the pulpit, left the chapel."* 

Tutor Cecil, owing to Livingstone's break-down 
in preaching and his hesitation in conducting family 
prayers, sent a report to the board which had nearly 
ended his connection with the London Missionary j 
Society, but an extension of his probation wasX? 

*Joseph Moore writes : "Livingstone and I lodged together. 
We read Latin and Greek, and began Hebrew together. Every 
day we took walks, and visited all the spots of interest in the 
neighborhood, among them the country churchyard which was 
the burial-place of John Locke, In a place so quiet, and a life 
so ordinary as that of a student, there did not occur many 
events worthy of recital. I will, however, mention one or two 
things, because they give an insight — a kind of prophetic 
glance — into Livingstone's after-career. 

"One foggy November morning, at three o'clock, he set out 
from Ongar to walk to London to see a relative of his father's. 
It was about twenty-seven miles to the house he sought. After 
spending a few hours with his relation, he set out to return on 
foot to Ongar. Just out of London, near Edmonton, a lady 
had been thrown out of a gig. She lay stunned on the road. 
Livingstone immediately went to her, helped to carry her into 
a house close by, and having examined her and found no bones 
broken, and recommending a doctor to be called, he resumed 
his weary tramp. Weary and footsore, when he reached 
Stanford Rivers he missed his way, and finding after somej 
time that he was wrong, he felt so dead-beat that he was' 
inclined to lie down and sleep ; but finding a directing-post he 
climbed it, and by the light of the stars deciphered enough to 
know his whereabouts. About twelve that Saturday night he 
reached Ongar, white as a sheet, and so tired he could hardly 
utter a word. I gave him a basin of bread and milk, and 
I am not exaggerating when I say I put him to bed. He fell 
at once asleep, and did not awake till noonday had passed 
on Sunday." 



t 



14 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

granted, and at the end of another two months he 
was fully accepted. He now went to London to 
walk the hospitals, while his friend was sent to 
Cheshunt College. From thence Moore wrote to 
him to get him a second-hand carpet for his room. 
But David was quite scandalized at such effeminacy, 
and "positively refused to gratify my wish." 

He continued his medical studies till November, 
1840, when, on the eve of his ordination, he ran 
down to Glasgow to obtain his diploma. Here again 
there had nearly been a miscarriage. His own ac- 
count of it runs : "Having finished the medical cur- 
riculum, and presented a thesis which required the 
use of the stethoscope for its diagnosis, I unwit- 
tingly procured myself an examination rather more 
severe than usual in consequence of a difference of 
opinion between me and the examiners as to whether 
the instrument could do what was asserted. How- 
ever, I was admitted a Licentiate of Faculty of Phy- 
sicians and Surgeons, and it was with unfeigned 
delight I became a member of a profession which 
with unwearied energy pursues from age to age its 
endeavors to lessen human woe." This was on 
November i6th, on the evening of which day he 
went home. There David proposed to sit up all 
night, as he had to leave for London in the early 
morning, but this his mother would not hear of. 
He and his father talked till midnight of the pros- 
pects of Christian missions. The family were up to 



BOYHOOD DAYS AND EARLY LIFE. 15 

breakfast at five. "Mother made coffee/' his sister 
writes; "David read the 121st and 135th Psalms, 
and prayed. My father and he walked to Glasgow 
to catch the Liverpool steamer." On the "Broomie- 

' law" father and son parted, and never met again. 
After that first parting David never was in native 
Blantyre again except for a few hours, but the mem- 
ory of his first home lingered lovingly in his mind, 
as it does in that of all true men. "Time and 
travel," he wrote thirty years later, "have not effaced 
the feelings of respect I imbibed for the inhabitants 
of my native village." Two of these he has immor- 
talized. "David Hogg, who addressed me on his 
deathbed with the words, 'Now, lad, ma ke relig ion 
the every-day business of yqurJife^a_ndjiot^ a thing 
o^f fits and starts ; for if you don't^ temptations and[ 

"other things~wi]Tget the better of you,' and Thomas 



Burke, an" old Forty-second Peninsular soldier, who 
has been incessant and never wearying in good 
works for about forty years. . . . The villagers 
furnished a proof that education did not render them 
an unsafe portion of the population. They much 
respected those of the neighboring gentry, who, like 
the late Lord Douglas, placed some confidence in 
their sense of honor. Through his kindness, the 
poorest amongst us could stroll at pleasure over the 
ancient domains of Bothwell, and other spots hal- 
lowed by venerable associations ; and few of us could 
view these dear memorials of the past without feel- 



16 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

ing that these monuments were our own. The mass 
of the working people of Scotland have read history, 
and are no levellers. They rejoice in the memories 
of Wallace and Bruce, 'and a' the lave.' W^hile 
foreigners imagine we want the spirit to overturn 
aristocracy, we in truth hate those stupid revolutions 
which sweep away time-honored institutions, dear 
alike to rich and poor." 

On November 20th he was ordained a missionary 
in London, and on December 8, 1840, sailed for 
Algoa Bay on board the "George," Captain Don- 
aldson.* 

*It is no wonder that all his life Livingstone had a very 
strong faith in Providence, for at every turn of his career 
up to this point, some unlooked-for circumstance had come 
in to give a new direction to his history. First, his reading 
Dick's "Philosophy of a Future State," which led him to 
Christ, but did not lead him away from science; then his 
falling in with Gutzlaff's "Appeal," which induced him to 
became a medical missionary; the Opium War, which closed 
China against him; the friendly word of the Director who 
procured for him another trial; Mr. Moffat's visit, which 
deepened his interest in Africa; and finally, the issue of a 
dangerous illness that attacked him in London — all indicated 
the unseen hand that was preparing him for his great work. 



CHAPTER 11. 

START IN AFRICA — KURUMAN. 
1840-43. 

Up to the eve of his ordination Livingstone was 
bent on going to China. The opium-war was still 
dragging on, but this would not have deterred so 
resolute a man had not a new and most powerful 
influence been brought to bear on him at this crisis. 
One evening Dr. Moffat, the Nestor of African Mis- 
sions, who was in England on a visit, called at Mrs. 
Sewell's in Aldersgate Street, where Livingstone 
and other young missionaries boarded. The younger 
man was at once deeply interested and attracted, at- 
tended all Dr. Moffat's public meetings, and ended 
by asking whether the Doctor thought he might do 
for Africa. "Yes," was the reply; "if you won't go 
to an old station, but push on to the vast unoccupied 
district to the north, where on a clear morning I 
have seen the smoke of a thousand villages, and no 
missionary has ever been." It was with this counsel 
in his mind that David embarked on the "George" 
sailing packet for Algoa Bay on December 8, 1840.* 

*The meeting of Livingstone with Moffat is far too impor- 
tant an event to be passed over without remark. Both 

17 



18 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

The voyage of five months was unsatisfactory to 
the ardent young missionary. The captain indeed 
''rigged out the ship for church on Sundays," but no 
good came of it that Livingstone could see ; and he 
wrote sorrowfully in his first dispatch to his direc- 



directly and indirectly, Mr. Moffat's influence on his young 
brother, afterward to become his son-in-law, was remarkable. 
In after-life they had a thorough appreciation of each other. 
No family on the face of the globe could have been so helpful 
to Livingstone in connection with the great work to which 
he gave himself. If the old Roman fashion of surnames 
still prevailed, there is no household of which all the members 
would have been better entitled to put Africanus after their 
name. The interests of the great continent were dear to 
them all. In 1872, when one of the Search Expeditions for 
Livingstone was fitted out, a grandson of Dr. Moffat, another 
Robert Moffat, was among those who set out in the hope of 
relieving him ; cut off at the very beginning, in the flower of 
his youth, he left his bones to moulder in African soil. 

"I had occasion" (Dr. Moffat has informed us) "to call for 
some one at Mrs. Sewell's, a boarding-house for young mis- 
sionaries in Aldersgate street, where Livingstone lived. I 
observed soon that this young man was interested in my story, 
that he would sometimes come quietly and ask me a question 
or two, and that he was always desirous to know where I was 
to speak in public, and attended on these occasions. By and 
by he asked me whether I thought he would do for Africa. 
I said I believed he would, if he would not go to an old sta- 
tion, but would advance to unoccupied ground, specifying the 
vast plain to the north, where I had sometimes seen, in the 
morning sun, the smoke of a thousand villages, where no 
missionary had ever been. At last Livingstone said : 'What 
is the use of my waiting for the end of this abominable opium 
war? I will go at once to Africa.' The Directors concurred, 
and Africa became bis sphere," 



START IN AFRICA— KURUMAN. 19 

tors, that "no spiritual good had been done to any- 
one on board." The long voyage, however, round 
by Rio de Janeiro, was of great value to himself. 
For he made a close friend of Captain Donaldson, 
who gave him lessons in the use of the quadrant, 
often sitting up till midnight to perfect his pupil in 
taking lunar observations. 

The Cape, where the "George" was detained for 
a month, proved a sad disappointment. He found 
the missionaries not only too many for the work, but 
a divided body, some sympathizing with the colo- 
nists, some with the natives. His host was Dr. 
Philip, the agent of the society for payment of sal- 
aries, who had also a discretionary power to make 
advances for the building of churches, schools, and 
houses at mission stations. Livingstone had heard 
in England that the Doctor was a spiritual despot, 
influenced in this direction by his wife. "I came 
full of prejudice against them," he writes to his 
friend and tutor the Rev. R. Cecil, "and I left them 
with my prejudices completely thawed, my fears 
allayed, and my mind imbued with great respect for 
the upright Christian character they both exhibited 
during the whole of my stay. ... I have no 
doubt they have erred in the manner in which they 
have exercised their power, but sure I am that no one 
who knows them can say that the errors have been 
committed from any other motive than a sincere 
desire to advance the cause of Christ, and a deep 



20 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

conviction that the particular mode of appropriation 
adopted would best effect that object."* 

The Doctor had also a church at Cape Town, in 
which Livingstone preached (this preaching must 
have been incidental only, for a single Sunday or a 
few Sundays, not an engagement for a prolonged 
period which is called a ''stated supply"), with the 
result that one part of the congregation accused him 
of heterodoxy to the Doctor, 'Svhile others requested 
the notes of my sermon, expressing a determination 
to act more than they had done on the principle I had 

*Dr. Philip was desirous of returning home for a time, and 
very anxious to find some one to take his place as minister of 
the congregation of Cape Town, in his absence. The office 
was offered to Livingstone, who rejected it with no little 
emphasis — not for a moment would he think of it, nor would 
he preach the gospel within any other man's line. He had not 
been long at the Cape when he found to his surprise and sor- 
row that the missionaries were not all at one, either as to the 
general policy of the mission, or in the matter of social inter- 
course and confidence. The shock was a severe one; it was 
not lessened by what he came to know of the spirit and life 
of a few — happily only a few — of his brethren afterward ; 
and undoubtedly it had an influence on his future life. It 
showed him that there were missionaries whose profession 
was not supported by a life of consistent well-doing, although 
it did not shake his confidence in the character and the work 
of missionaries on the whole. He saw that in the mission 
there was what might be called a colonial side and a native 
side; some sympathizing with the colonists and some with the 
natives. He had no difficulty in making up his mind between 
them; he drew instinctively to the party that were for pro- 
tecting the natives against the unrighteous encroachments of 
the settlers. 



START IN AFRICA— KURUMAN. 21 

inculcated. My theme was the necessity of adopt- 
ing the benevolence of the Son of God as the gov- 
erning principle of our conduct. . . . My way 
of putting this roused the indignation of these 
worthies, w^ho seem much more fearful of 
heterodoxy in sentiment than heterodoxy in prac- 
tice. . . o It is a house divided against it- 
self. . o o They do all in their power to insult 
the Doctor and render his old age bitter. . . . 
They don't deserve a good pastor, and I don't see 
anything for them but dissolution, and being re- 
modeled." 

So at the month's end he sailed on in the ''George" 
to Algoa Bay, leaving behind him at the Cape a 
reputation for independence and heterodoxy, which, 
as we shall see, rose up against him nine years later, 
in the great crisis of his life, when he brought his 
family down to embark them for England, before 
starting on his first great journey to the west coast. 
On leaving the "George" at Algoa Bay he started at 
once in an ox-wagon for Dr. Moffat's station at 
Kuruman, seven hundred miles up the country, 
which he reached on May 31, 1841. The fascina- 
tion of African travel came on him at once. 'T like 
this travelling very much indeed. There is so much 
freedom in our African manners. We pitch our 
.'tent, make our fire, wherever we choose ; w^alk, ride, 
or shoot at all sorts of game, as our inclination leads 
us ; but there is a great drawback — we can't study or 



32 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

read as we please. I feel this very much, and have 
made very little progress in the language." As to 
the work of the Missions he passed he could write : 
*'The full extent of the benefit received can be under- 
stood only by those who witness it in contrast with 
places which have not been so highly favored. 
Everything I witnessed surpassed my hopes. If this 
is a fair sample, the statements of the missionaries as 
to their success are far within the mark." Again to 
Mr. Cecil : ''I like the country well. It is very like 
Scotland in appearance, and the Hottentots are far 
superior in attainments to what I had expected. I 
traveled four days in the wagon of one of them, and 
was much struck with all their conduct, particularly 
the manner in which they conducted family worship, 
morning and evening. It reminded me forcibly of 
the old Covenanters praising God amongst their 
native wilds. At Hankey their operations for the 
temporal benefit of their families, and their Christian 
deportment, are truly delightful. They have a 
prayer meeting every morning at four o'clock, well 
attended."* 

*He goes on to say that as the natives had no clocks or 
watches, mistakes sometimes occurred about ringing the bell 
for this meeting, and sometimes the people found themselves 
assembled at twelve or one o'clock instead of four. The 
welcome to the missionaries (their own missionary was re- 
turning from the Cape with Livingstone) was wonderful. 
Muskets were fired at their approach, then big guns ; and then 
men, women, and children rushed at the top of their speed to 
shake hands and welcome them. The missionary had lost a 



START IN AFRICA— KURUMAN. 33 

He found at Kuruman no instructions from his 
Directors, and was thus left with a free hand. 
While beginning at once to practice as a doctor, his 
first aim was to learn the language in which he made 
rapid progress ; his next, to look around for the best 
place to open a new station to the north, as Dr. 
Moffat had suggested. With this view he started in) 
the later autumn with another missionary and sev- 
eral native agents, and made a circuit amongst the 
Bakwains and other tribes. The result was, a con- 
viction that no time was to be lost, and great confi- 
dence in himself and his methods. Griqua hunters 
and others were spreading prejudicial reports 
against the missionaries, who were putting down 
polygamy, drunkenness, and marauding in and 
round Kuruman. His frank treatment of the na- 
tives, and skill in healing their ailments, did much to 
counteract these slanders. He got back to Kuru- 
man by Christmas, having, however, promised the 
Bakwains to return shortly. *'When about 150 
miles from home we came to a large village. The 
chief had sore eyes; I doctored them, and he fed us 

little boy, and out of respect each of the people had something 
black on his head. Both public worship and family worship 
were very interesting, the singing of hymns being very beauti- 
ful. The bearing of these Christianized Hottentots was in 
complete contrast to that of a Dutch family whom he visited 
as a medical man one Sunday. There was no Sunday; the 
man's wife and daughters were dancing before the house, 
while a black played the fiddle. 



24 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

pretty well, and sent a fine buck after me as a pres^ 
ent. When we got ten or twelve miles on the way, 
a little girl eleven or twelve years old came up and 
sat down under my wagon, having run away with 
the purpose of coming with us to Kuruman, where 
she had friends. She had lived with a sister lately 
dead. Another family took possession of her for 
the purpose of selling her as soon as she was old 
enough for a wife, but not liking this she determined 
to run away. With this intention she came, and 
thought of walking all the way behind my wagon. 
I was pleased with the determination of the little 
creature and gave her food, but before long heard 
her sobbing violently as if her heart would break. 
On looking round I observed the cause. A man 
with a gun had been sent after her, and had just 
arrived. I did not know well what to do, but was 
not in perplexity long, for Pomare, a native convert 
who accompanied us, started up and defended her. 
He, being the son of a chief, and possessed of some 
little authority, managed the matter nicely. She 
had been loaded with beads, to render her more at- 
tractive and fetch a higher price. These she stripped 
off and gave to the man. I afterward took measures 
for hiding her, and if fifty men had come they would 
not have got her."* 

*The story reads like an allegory or a prophecy. In the 
person of the little maid, oppressed and enslaved Africa comes 
to the good Doctor for protection; instinctively she knows 



START IN AFRICA— KURUMAN. 25 

After a short rest at Kuruman he secluded him- 
self for six months from all but native society at a 
place called Lepeloh, for the purpose of perfecting 
himself in the habits, laws, and language of the Bak- 
wains — an ordeal which proved of great advantage 
to him. 

"I am glad," he writes to Mr. Cecil at this time, "I 
can anticipate the commencement of something per- 
manent in my work. I think Mrs. Cecil will laugh 
when I tell you I am become a poet. I want to tell 
you, however, and not by way of boasting, but that 
you may know I have made some progress in the 
language. I suppose you have been apprehensive 
that I should not acquire it, I being such a poor hand 
at languages when with you; but having made, or 
rather translated, some very good English hymns 
into Sichuana rhyme, six of them have been adopted 
and printed by the French missionaries. If they 
had been bad I don't see that they could have had 

she may trust him ; his heart opens at once, his ingenuity 
contrives a way of protection and deliverance, and he will 
never give her up. It is a little picture of Livingstone's life 
In fulfilment of a promise made to the natives in the in- 
terior that he would return to them, Livingstone set out on a 
second tour Into the interior of the Bechuana country on loth 
February, 1842. His objects were, first, to acquire the native 
language m.ore perfectly, and second, by suspending his 
medical practice, which had become inconveniently large at 
Kuruman, to give his undivided attention to the subject of 
native agents. He took with him two native members of 
the Kurumax! church, and two other natives for the manage- 
ment of the wagon. 



26 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

any motive for using them. I can speak it now with 
ease, but I am yet far from perfection. This, how- 
ever, I am not ashamed to own; for, after such sl 
great man as Mr. Moffat is, and twenty years resi- 
dent in the country, he is not yet perfect. He has 
put some shocking blunders into the Testament : the 
word used for 'accuse/ for instance, always means 
the very opposite of what he intends, and this when 
there are several other words which express it point- 
edly." 

After this seclusion he started again to keep his 
promise of revisiting the Bakwains, and found him- 
self already a power in the country. The sick and 
curious crowded his wagon in the villages, but not 
an article was stolen. He even succeeded in getting 
the people of Bubr, a friendly chief, to dig a canal. 
'The Doctor and rainmaker amongst these people 
are one and the same person. As I did not like to be 
behind my professional brethren I declared I could 
make rain too, not, however, by enchantment like 
them, but by leading out their river for irrigation. 
The idea took mightily, and to work we went in- 
stanter. Even the chief's own doctor went at it, 
laughing heartily at the cunning of the foreigner 
who can make rain so. We have only one spade, 
and this without a handle, but yet by sticks sharp- 
ened we have dug a pretty long canal. The earth 
was lifted out in 'goupens' and carried ta the huge 
dam we have built in karosses, torta^i^e T^ells, or 



START IN AFRICA— KURUMAN. 37 

wooden boats. This is, I believe, the first instance 
in which Bechuanas have been got to work without 
wages." The earher missionaries, he wrote at this 
time, had gone on wrong hnes. "If these people 
perceive any one in the least dependent on them they 
begin to tyrannize. I am trying a different plan. I 
make my presence with any of them a favor, and 
when they show any impudence I threaten to leave 
them, and if they don't amend I go. They are in 
one sense fierce, and in another the greatest cow^ards 
in the world. By a bold, free course among them I 
have had not the least difficulty in managing the 
most fierce. A kick would, I am persuaded, quell 
the courage of the bravest of them. Add to this the 
report, which many of them believe, that I am a 
great wizard, and you will understand how I can 
with great ease visit any of them." 

Farther on he came to the Bamangwato, and was 
favorably received by their chief, Sekomi.* Here 

*The ignorance of this tribe he found to be exceedingly- 
great : 

"Their conceptions of the Deity are of the most vague and 
contradictory nature, and the name of God conveys no more 
to their understanding than the idea of superiority. Hence 
they do not hesitate to apply the name to their chiefs. I was 
every day shocked by being addressed by that title, and though 
it as often furnished me with a text from which to tell them 
of the only true God and Jesus Christ, whom he has sent, yet 
it deeply pained me, and I never felt so fully convinced of the 
lamentable deterioration of our species. It is indeed a mourn- 
ful truth that man has become like the beasts that perish." 



U THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

he stayed for some time, and Sekomi one day, hav- 
ing sat some time in deep thought, said : " 'I wish 
you would change my heart. Give me medicine to 
change it, for it is proud, proud and angry, angry 
always/ I lifted up the Testament and was about 
to tell him of the only way in which the heart can be 
changed, but he interrupted me with, 'Nay, I wish to 
have it changed by medicine, to drink and have it 
changed at once, for it is always very proud and very 
uneasy, ahvays angry with some one,' and then rose 
and went away." 

His next halt was with the Bakaa, a tribe who had 
recently murdered a trader and his company. All 
but the chief and his two attendants fled at first, but 
seeing the Doctor eat and afterward sleep, came back 
and attended a service. ''I had more than ordinary 
pleasure in telling these murderers of the precious 
blood which cleanseth from all sin. I bless God 

The place was greatly infested by lions, and during Living- 
stone's visit an awful occurrence took place that made a great 
impression on him: 

"A woman was actually devoured in her garden during my 
visit, and that so near the town that I had frequently walked 
past it. It was most affecting to hear the cries of the orphan 
children of this woman. During the whole day after her 
death the surrounding rocks and valleys rang and re-echoed 
with their bitter cries. I frequently thought as I listened to 
the loud sobs, painfully indicative of the sorrows of those 
who have no hope, that if some of our churches could have 
heard their sad wailings, it would have awakened the firm, 
resolution to do more for the heathen than they have done." 



START IN AFRICA— KURUMAN. 29 

that he has conferred on me the privileg-e and honor 
of being the first messenger of mercy that ever trod 
these regions. Its being also the first occasion on 
which I had ventured to address a number of Bechu- 
anas in their own tongue, renders it to myself one 
of peculiar interest. . . . When I left, the chief 
sent his son and a number of his people to see me 
safe part of the way to the Alakalaka."'^ 

*0n his way home, in passing through Bubi's country, he 
was visited by sixteen of the people of Sebehwe, a chief who 
had successfully withstood Mosilikatse, but whose cowardly 
neighbors, under the influence of jealousy, had banded to- 
gether to deprive him of what they had not had the courage 
to defend. Consequently he had been driven into the sandy 
desert, and his object in sending to Livingstone was to solicit 
his advice and protection, as he wished to come out, in order 
that his people might grow corn, etc. Sebehwe, like many 
of the other people of the country, had the notion that -if he 
got a single white man to live with him, he would be quite 
secure. It was no wonder that Livingstone early acquired 
the strong conviction that if missions could only be scattered 
over Africa, their immediate effect in promoting the tran- 
quillity of the continent could hardly be over-estimated. 

We have given these details somewhat fully, because they 
show that before he had been a year in the country Living- 
stone had learned how to rule the Africans. From the very 
first, his genial address, simple and fearless manner, and 
transparent kindliness formed a spell which rarely failed. 
He had great faith in the power of humor. He was never 
afraid of a man who had a hearty laugh. By a playful way 
of dealing with the people, he made them feel at ease with 
him, and afterward he could be solemn enough when the occa- 
sion required. His medical knowledge helped him greatly; 
but for permanent influence all would have been in vain if 
he had not uniformly observed the rules of justice, good 



30 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

His oxen sickened, and most of the rest of the 
journey was done on foot. "Some of those who 
had recently joined us, and did not know that I 
understood a little of their language, were overheard 
by me discussing my appearance. 'He is not strong, 
he is quite slim, and only seems stout because he puts 
himself into those bags' (trousers) ; 'he will soon 
knock up.' This made my Highland blood rise, and 
I kept them all at the top of their speed for days to- 
gether, until I heard them express a favorable opin- 
ion of my.pedestrian powers." 

Still no definite instructions came from home, so 
making Kuruman his headquarters he continued his 
medical and missionary journeys amongst the neigh- 
boring tribes. ''I have an immense practice," he 
writes to his old tutor, Sir Risden Bennett ; "patients 
walk 130 miles for my advice. This is the country 
for a medical man, but he must leave fees out of the 
question. They have much more disease than I ex- 
pected. They are nearly naked, and endure the 
scorching heat of the day and the chills at night in 
that condition. Add to this that they are absolutely 
omnivorous. Indigestion, rheumatism, ophthalmia 
are the prevailing diseases. . . . They make me 
speak their language, and were I inclined to be lazy 

feeling, and good manners. Often he would say that the true 
road to influence was patient continuance in well-doing. It 
is remarkable that, from the very first, he should have seen 
the charm of that method v/hich he employed so successfully 
to the end. 



START IN AFRICA-KURUMAN. 31 

in learning it they would prevent me indulging the 
propensity. They are excellent patients, too. There 
is no wincing; everything prescribed is done m- 
stanter. Their only failing is that they get tired of 
a long course, but in any operation even the women 
sit unmoved. I have been astonished again and 
again at their calmness. In cutting out a tumor an 
inch in diameter, they sit and talk as if they felt 
nothing. *A man like me,' they say, 'never cries. It 
is children that cry.' And it is a fact that the 
men never cry ; but when the spirit of God works on 
their minds they cry most piteously, trying to hide 
their heads in their karosses, and when they find that 
won't do, they rush out of church and run with 
all their might, crying as if the hand of death were 
behind them. One would think they would stop 
away; but no, they are in their places at the next 
meeting." 

His practice in midwifery was, perhaps, the most 
characteristic. They suffered less from confine- 
ments than in civilized countries, and had a prejudice 
against the presence of male doctors. A case of 
twins occurred in which the ointments of all the 
doctors in the town proved unavailing. A few sec- 
onds of English art afforded relief, and the prejudice 
vanished at once. "1 reserved myself for the difficult 
cases. . . . My knowledge of midwifery pro- 
cured me great fame in a department in which I 
could lay no claim to merit. A woman came more 



32 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

than loo miles to consult me for a complaint which 
had baffled the native doctors. A complete cure was 
the result, and a year later she bore a son to her hus- 
band, who had previously reproached her for being 
barren. She sent me a handsome present, and pro- 
claimed that I possessed a medicine for the removal 
of sterility." This brought him applicants for the 
child-medicine from all parts of the country, and it 
was in vain for him to explain that the disease he had 
treated was quite a different one. "It was really 
heartrending to hear the earnest entreaty, and see 
the tearful eyes. *I am getting old; you see gray 
hairs here and there on my head, and I have no child. 
You know how Bechuana men cast their old wives 
away. What can I do ? I have no child to bring me 
water when I am sick,' " etc. 

In 1842 he was again away, and, five days' jour- 
ney beyond the Bakatla, came to Sechele, chief of the 
Bechuanas. At first Sechele was hostile, but his only 
child was ill, and Livingstone cured her, and thence- 
forth Sechele became one of his warmest friends and 
most interesting converts. Some of his questions 
puzzled the Doctor, as : ''Since it is true that all who 
die unforgiven are lost forever, why did not your 
nation come to tell us of it before now? M}'" ances- 
tors are all gone, and none of them knew anything 
of what you tell me. How is this?"* 

^Livingstone replied: "I told him multitudes in our own 
country were like himself, so much in love with their sins. 



START IN AFRICA— KURUMAN. 33 

At last, soon after his return from Sechele, the 
definite permission came to push forward, and in 
June, 1843, he was able to write home of the "feeling 
of inexpressible delight with which I hail the de- 
cision of the Directors, that w^e go forward into the 
dark interior. May the Lord enable me to conse- 
crate my w^hole being to the glorious work."* 

A few extracts from his letters to Mr. Cecil will 
explain at once the cause of this delight, and the 
temper and methods which he was resolved to em- 

My ancestors had spent a great deal of time in trying to 
persuade them, and yet after all many of them by refusing 
were lost. We now wish to tell all the world about a Saviour, 
and if men did not believe, the guilt would be entirely theirs." 

*Among other things that Livingstone found time for in 
these wanderings among strange people, was translating 
hymns into the Sichuana language. Writing to his father 
(Bakwain Country, 21st March, 1843), he says: 

"Janet may be pleased to learn that I am become a poet, or 
rather a poetaster, in Sichuana. Half a dozen of my hymns 
were lately printed in a collection of the French brethren. 
One of them is a translation of 'There is a fountain filled 
with blood'; another, 'Jesus shall reign where'er the sun'; 
others are on 'The earth being filled with the glory of the 
Lord,' 'Self-dedication,' 'Invitation to Sinners,' 'The soul that 
loves God finds him everywhere.' Janet may try to make 
English ones on these latter subjects if she can, and Agnes 
will doubtless set them to music on the same condition. I 
do not boast of having done this, but only mention it to let 
you know that I am getting a little better fitted for the great 
work of a missionary, that your hearts may be drawn out to 
more prayer for the success of the gospel proclaimed by my 
feeble lips." 



34 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

ploy in the forward career which was now opening 
to him. "There has always been some bugbear in 
the way of the interior, and the tribes have in conse- 
quence always passed away into darkness. ... I 
did not at first intend to give up all attention to medi- 
cine and the treatment of disease, but now I feel it to 
be my duty to have as little to do with it as possible. 
I shall attend to none but severe cases in future, and 
my reasons for this determination are, I think, good. 
The spiritual amelioration of the people is the object 
for which I came, but I cannot expect God to ad- 
vance this by my instrumentality if much of my time 
is spent in mere temporal amelioration. And I know 
that if I gave much attention to medicine and medi- 
cal studies, something like a sort of mania which 
seized me soon after I began the study of anatomy 
would increase, and I fear would gain so much 
power over me as to make me, perhaps, a very good 
doctor, but a useless drone of a missionary. I feel the 
self-denial this requires very much, but it is the only 
real sacrifice I have been called on to make, and I 
shall try to make it willingly." His friends, he goes 
on, perhaps will wonder at his intention to go so far 
north, but none of the tribes within one hundred and 
eighty miles north of this will listen. And as to the 
need of some one to show the way, he is now the 
fourth missionary at Kuruman. Now at this out- 
post there are only four hundred people, and "all the 
brethren behind this, even down to the sea, are 



START IN AFRICA— KURUMAN. 35 

crowded together with scanty portions of people, and 
many unpleasant words pass as to encroaching 
on each other's fields, etc. . . . We can go for- 
ward and find plenty of people, and these, too, with 
none of the prejudices which the near tribes have 
unfortunately imbibed. I was received with the 
greatest kindness by all the tribes I visited, and 
some of them never saw a white face before ; and the 
latitude at which I turned back is farther than any 
European has attained before. I must make the 
effort now when I am able to stand the heat, etc., and 
if I wait I shall soon perhaps be disinclined to endure 
fatigue." Then as to the danger — after referring to 
his friend Dr. Philip, the Society's agent, who had 
been at Kuruman while he was away, and left him a 
message "not to think of building his house on the 
crater of a volcano ;" and that Mosilikatse, the great 
Makololo chief, was ready "to pounce on any white 
man and spill his blood," — he goes on : "I believed 
these reports, too, when I left this, but L found to my 
surprise that the Bamangwato, whom I visited, are 
eight days north of the Bakwana, and that Mosili- 
katse is at least fourteen days north of them. Seeing, 
then, that the Doctor is, from having been misin- 
formed, about to oppose the gospel being carried into 
the interior, I intend just to go on without his sanc- 
tion. Besides, he does not point out any place where 
I can be useful. In fact he cannot, for the country 
behind this is overstocked with missionaries. . . , 



36 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

The Doctor stated to some of the brethren that he 
thought I was ambitious. I really am ambitious to 
preach beyond other men's lines : but I suppose he 
meant the wrong kind of ambition. I don't feel in 
the least displeased wath him. I am only determined 
to go on, and do all I can while able for the poor de- 
graded people in the north." Again, in answer to 
friendly warnings from other quarters: ''I feel the 
necessity more than ever of active devotedness to the 
Redeemer's cause. I don't feel anything we usually 
call sacrifices at home to be such. There is so much 
to counterbalance them they really don't deserve the 
name, and I am in a great deal more danger from 
levity than from melancholy; indeed, it sometimes 
makes me blame myself severely. When contemplat- 
ing the Mission field before I left England I used to 
think my spirits would flag, but I feel no difference 
from what I felt at home. It is, therefore, no virtue 
in me to endure privations, it is only in those who 
feel them as such. I wish my mind were more deep- 
ly affected by the condition of those who are perish- 
ing in this heathen land. I am sorry to say I don't 
feel half as concerned for them as I ought." 

And so, in this resolute and yet humble spirit, he 
went forward rejoicing, to found his first station in 
which he hoped to be permanently settled, far away 
to the north, in advance of any point hitherto visited 
by white men. 



CHAPTER HI. 

KOLOBENG LAKE NGAMI THE ZAMBEZI. 

1843-52. 

In the early days of August, 1843, Livingstone 
started from Kuruman, with another missionary who 
had agreed to accompany him, for the beautiful val- 
ley of Mabotsa, about two hundred miles to the 
northeast, which he had selected in one of his earlier 
journeys as the best site for a station. Two sports- 
men from India joined the party, Mr. Pringle and 
Captain, now General, Sir Thomas Steele, the latter 
of whom became one of his best friends. The power 
that Livingstone had already acquired with the na- 
tives gave him a striking advantage over his com- 
panions, whose ample outfit of horses, servants, 
tents, and stores, stood out in marked contrast to his 
ox- wagon. ''When we reach a spot where we intend 
to pass the night," he writes home, "all hands at once 
unyoke the oxen. Then one or two collect wood, one 
strikes up a fire, another gets out the water-bucket 
and fills the kettle, a piece of meat is thrown on the 
fire, and if we have biscuits we are at our coffee in 
less than half an hour. Our friends perhaps sit or 
§t^nd shivering at their fire for two or three hours 

37 



38 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

before they get their things ready, and are glad occa- 
sionally of a cup of coffee from us."* 

At Mabotsa he built his house with his own hands, 
and settled to work amongst the Bakatlas, where he 
remained for three years. Here the encounter with 
a lion occurred, which, as he wrote, "I meant to have 
kept to tell my children in my dotage," but on pres- 
sure from friends narrated in hh first book as fol- 
lows : ''The Bakatla of the village of Mabotsa were 
troubled by lions, which lieaped into the cattle-pens 
by night and destroyed their cows. They even at- 
tacked the herds in open day. This was so unusual 
an occurrence that the people believed themselves to 
be bewitched — 'given,' as they said, into the power 
of the lions by a neighboring tribe." They went 
once to attack the animals, but being rather cowardly 
in comparison with the Bechuanas in general, they 
returned without slaying any. 

"It is well known that if one in a troop of lions is 
killed, the remainder leave that part of the couti- 

*The first act of the missionaries on arriving at their des- 
tination was to have an interview with the chief, and ask 
whether he desired a missionary. Having an eye to the beads, 
guns, and other things, of which white men seemed always 
to have an ample store, the chief and his men gave them a 
cordial welcome, and Livingstone next proceeded to make a 
purchase of land. This, like Abraham with the sons of Hetho 
he insisted should be done in legal form, and for this pur- 
pose he drew up a written contract to which, after it was 
fully explained to them, both parties attached their sig^natures 
or marks. 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 39 

try. The next time, therefore, the herds were at- 
tacked, I went with the people to encourage them to 
rid themselves of the annoyance by destroying one 
of the marauders. We found the animals on a small 
hill covered with trees. The men formed round it 
in a circle, and gradually closed up as they advanced. 
Being below on the plain with a native schoolmaster! 
named Mabalwe, I saw one of the lions sitting on a 
piece of rock within the ring. Mabalwe fired at him, 
and the ball hit the rock on which the animal was sit- 
ting. He bit at the spot struck, as a dog does at a 
stick or stone thrown at him ; and then leaping away, 
broke through the circle and escaped unhurt. If the 
Bakatla had acted according to the custom of the 
country, they would have speared him in his attempt 
to get out, but they were afraid to attack him. When 
the circle was re-formed, we saw two other lions in 
it, but dared not fire lest we should shoot some 
of the people. The beasts burst through the line, 
and, as it was evident the men could not be prevailed 
on to face their foes, we bent our footsteps toward 
the village. In going round the end of the hill I saw 
a lion sitting on a piece of rock, about thirty yards 
off, with a little bush in front of him. I took a 
good aim at him through the bush, and fired both 
barrels into it. The men called out, 'He is shot, he 
is shot !' Others cried, 'He has been shot by another 
man, too; let us ;^o to him!' I saw the lion's tail 
erected in SLn^ei 9:ad, turning to the people, said, 



40 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

*Stop a little till I load again/ When in the act of 
ramming down the bullets I heard a shout, and, look- 
ing half round, I saw the lion in the act of springing 
upon me. He caught me by the shoulder, and we 
both came to the ground together. Growling horri- 
bly, he shook me as a terrier dog does a rat. The 
shock produced a stupor similar to that which seems 
to be felt by a mouse after the first grip of the cat. It 
caused a sort of dreaminess, in which there was no 
sense of pain nor feeling of terror, though I was 
quite conscious of all that was happening. It was 
like what patients partially under the influence of 
chloroform describe — they see the operation, but do 
not feel the knife. This placidity is probably pro- 
duced in all animals killed by the carnivora ; and if 
so, is a merciful provision of the Creator for lessen- 
ing the pain of death. As he had one paw on the 
back of my head, I turned round to relieve myself of 
the weight, and saw his eyes directed to Mabalwe, 
who was aiming at him from a distance of ten or fif- 
teen yards. His gun, which was a flint one, missed 
fire in both barrels. The animal immediately left me 
to attack him, and bit his thigh. Another man, 
whose life I had saved after he had been tossed by a 
buffalo, attempted to spear the lion, upon which he 
turned from Mabalwe and seized this fresh foe by 
the shoulder. At that moment the bullets the beast 
had received took effect, and he fell down dead. The 
whole was the work of a few moments, and must 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 41 

have been his paroxysm of dying rage. In order to 
take out the charm from him, the Bakatla on the fol- 
lowing day made a huge bonfire over the carcase, 
which was declared to be the largest ever seen. Be- 
sides crunching the bones into splinters, eleven of his 
teeth had penetrated the upper part of my arm. The 
bite of a lion resembles a gun-shot wound. It is gen- 
erally followed by a great deal of sloughing and dis- 
charge, and ever afterward pains are felt periodically 
in the part. I had on a tartan jacket, which I believe 
wiped off the virus from the teeth that pierced the 
flesh, for my two companions in the affray have both 
suffered from the usual pains, while I have escaped 
with only the inconvenience of a false joint in my 
limb. The wound of the man who was bit in the 
shoulder actually burst forth afresh on the same 
month of the following year. This curious point 
deserves the attention of inquirers." 

In a letter to the Directors, Livingstone briefly ad- 
verts to Mabalwe's service on this occasion, but 
makes it a peg on which to hang some strong re- 
marks on that favorite topic — the employment of na- 
tive agency : 

''Our native assistant Mabalwe has been of consid- 
erable value to the Mission. In endeavoring to save 
my life he nearly lost his own, for he was caught 
and wounded severely, but both before being laid 
aside, and since his recovery, he has shown great 
willingness to be useful. The cheerful manner in 



4^ THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. ' 

which he engages with us in manual labor in the sta^ 
tion, and his affectionate addresses to his country- 
men, are truly gratifying. Mr. E. took him to some 
of the neighboring villages lately, in order to intro- 
duce him to his work; and I intend to depart to- 
morrow for the same purpose to several of the vil- 
lages situated northeast of this. In all there may be 
a dozen considerable villages situated at convenient 
distances around us, and we each purpose to visit 
them statedly. It would be an immense advantage 
to the cause had we many such agents.'' 

In 1844 Dr. Moffat returned with his family to 
Kuruman, and toward the end of the year, *'after 
nearly four years of African life as a bachelor, I 
screwed up courage to put a question beneath one of 
the fruit-trees, the result of which was that I became 
united in marriage to Mr. Moffat's eldest daughter 
Mary. Having been born in the country, and being 
expert in household matters, she was always the best 
spoke in the wheel at home ; and, when I took her on 
two occasions to Lake Ngami and far beyond, she 
endured more than some who have written large 
books of travels." 

The young couple spent their first year at Ma- 
botsa, where, besides a good house, schools, and 
church, Livingstone had made an excellent garden.* 

*UnhappiIy, Mr. and Mrs. Livingstone's residence at Ma- 
botsa was embittered by a painful collision with the mis- 
sionary who had taken part in rearing the station. Living- 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 43 

But now a difference arose between him and his 
brother missionary, and rather than add one more to 
the squabbles which had vexed his soul at the south- 
ern stations, he, with his wife's approval, removed to 
Chonuane, forty miles north of Mabotsa, a village 
of the Bakwains, and the residence of their chief, 
Sechele, whom he had already made his friend. The 

stone was accused of acting unfairly by him, of assuming to 
himself more than his due, and attempts' were made to dis- 
credit him, both among the missionaries and the Directors. 
It was a very painful ordeal, and Livingstone felt it keenly. 
He held the accusation to be unjust, as most people will 
hold it to have been who know that one of the charges against 
him was that he was a "nonentity"! A tone of indignation 
pervades his letters — that after having borne the heat and 
burden of the day, he should be accused of claiming for him- 
self the credit due to one who had done so little in com- 
parison. But the noble spirit of Livingstone rose to the occa- 
sion. Rather than have any scandal before the heathen, he 
would give up his house and garden at Mabotsa, with all the 
toil and money they had cost him, go with his young bride to 
some other place, and begin anew the toil of house and school 
building, and gathering the people around him. His colleague 
was so struck with his generosity that he said had he known 
his intention he never would have spoken a word against 
him. Livingstone had spent all his money, and out of a salary 
of a hundred pounds it was not easy to build a house every 
other year. But he stuck to his resolution. Parting with his 
garden evidently cost him a pang, especially when he thought 
of the tasteless hands into which it was to fall. "I like a 
garden," he wrote, "but paradise will make amends for all our 
privations and sorrows here." Self-denial was a firmly estab- 
lished habit with him; and the passion of "moving on" was 
warm in his blood. Mabotsa did not thrive after Livingstone 
left it, but the brother with whom he had the difference lived 
to manifest a very different spirit. 



44 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Bakatla offered to build him a new house and schools 
at another of their villages — to do, in short, any- 
thing to keep him amongst them — to his surprise, 
for there had been few conversions, and he reckoned 
his work there a failure. He persisted, however, 
and to Chonuane they went, and began their work 
again from the beginning. Their life there is viv- 
idly described in his letters. ''Building, gardening, 
cobbling, doctoring, tinkering, carpentering, gun- 
mending, farriering, wagon-mending, preaching, 
schooling, lecturing on physics according to my 
means, besides a chair in divinity to a class of three, 
fill up my time. . . . My wife made candles, 
soap, and clothes, and thus we had nearly attained 
to the indispensable accomplishments of a mission- 
ary family in Central Africa — the husband a jack- 
of-all-trades without doors, and the wife a maid-of- 
all-work within." 

Everything promised weh at Chonuane. The 
chief, Sechele, was his first convert, and in a few 
weeks was able to read the Bible, his favorite Book 
being Isaiah. ''He was a fine man that Isaiah; he 
knew how to speak." In his new-born zeal Sechele 
proposed summary methods of conversion. "Do 
you think you can make my people believe by talking 
to them ?" he urged. "I can make them do nothing 
except by thrashing them, and if you like I shall call 
my head-man, and with our whips of rhinoceros hide 
we will soon make them all believe together." This 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 45 

was declined, and Sechele soon began to understand 
what spirit he was of, and to adopt Livingstone's 
methods, though their apparent failure grieved him 
sorely. He began family worship in his house, and 
surprised Livingstone by the simple and beautiful 
style in which he conducted it ; but, except his own 
family, no one attended. ''In former times," he 
complained, ''if a chief w^as fond of hunting, all his 
people got dogs and became fond of hunting, too. If 
he loved beer, they all rejoiced in strong drink. But 
now it is different. I love the word of God, but not 
one of my brethren will join me." 

The two chief causes for this failure wxre that 
Sechele had, after long struggle and debate with 
himself, put away all his wives but one, giving them 
new clothing and all the goods they had in their sep- 
arate huts. This alienated all their relatives 
amongst the chief men, while the rest attributed to 
the new religion the drought which came on them 
and lasted for four years. So severe was it that the 
tribe by Livingstone's advice migrated from Chonu- 
ane after the first year to Kolobeng, on the banks of 
a stream of that name, forty miles to the north, 
w^here Livingstone built his third house wath his own 
hands. But the drought continued at the new sta- 
tion, and the tribe became poorer year by year. 
They believed that Livingstone had bewitched their 
chief, and the old councillors came to him, entreating 
him to allow Sechele to miike a few showers. "The 



46 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

corn will die if you refuse, and we shall become scat- 
tered. Only let him make rain this once, and we 
shall all come to the school, and sing and pray as 
, long as you please." ''We like you," remonstrated 
Sechele's uncle, ''as well as if you had been born 
amongst us. You are the only white man we can 
become familiar with, but we wish you to give up 
that everlasting preaching and praying. We cannot 
become familiar with that at all. You see, we never 
get rain, while those tribes that never pray get 
plenty." 

In vain Livingstone pleaded that only God could 
make rain. He records pathetically the answers, of 
the fallacy of which he could never convince them. 
"Truly!" they said; "but God told us differently. 
He made black men first, but did not love us as he 
did the white men. He made you beautiful, and 
gave you clothing and guns and gunpowder, and 
horses and wagons, and many other things about 
which we know nothing. But toward us he had no 
heart. He gave us nothing but the assegai, and 
cattle, and rain-making; and he did not give us 
hearts like yours. We never love each other. Other 
tribes place medicines about our country to prevent 
the rain, so that we may be dispersed by hunger, and 
go to them and add to their power. We must dis- 
solve their charms by our medicines. God has given 
us one little thing which you know nothing of — the 
knowledge of certain medicines by which we can 



KOLOBENG-LAKE NGAMI-THE ZAMBEZI. 4-^ 

make rain. We do not despise those things you 
possess, though we are ignorant of them. You 
ought not to despise our Httle knowledge, though 
you are ignorant of it." 

But during the long trial of the drought, "They 
all continued to treat us with respectful kind- 
ness. ... I am not aware of ever having had 
an enemy in the tribe." 

The depression of the long drought, keenly as he 
felt it, was not allowed to hinder any of the work he 
had set himself, the most urgent of which he held to 
be the planting native teachers, trained by himself 
at Kolobeng, amongst the neighboring tribes. Those 
to the east roused his special sympathy, and his 
efforts on their behalf had an important influence on 
his future life. He found them practically enslaved 
by the Boers of the Cashan Mountains district, who 
plundered their cattle and made them work without 
wages. On his first visit the Commandant insisted : 
''You must teach the blacks that they are not our 
equals. . . . You might as well try to teach the 
baboons." Livingstone replied by offering to test 
whether the Boers or his native attendants could 
read best. From this time his relations with the 
Boers became more and more strained. In the fol- 
lowing years many of them came to Kolobeng, to 
get medicine and advice from him, and to trade. 
The reports they carried back inflamed the jealousy 
of their nation. They summoned Sechele to ac- 



48 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

knowledge himself their vassal, and to stop English 
traders and sportsmen from passing to the country 
beyond or selling firearms. "I was made an inde- 
pendent chief and placed here by God, and not by 
you," Sechele answered. "The English are my 
friends. I get all I want from them. I cannot 
hinder them from going where they like."* 

*While residing at Chonuane, Livingstone performed two 
journeys eastward, in order to attempt the removal of certain 
obstacles to the establishment of at least one of his native 
teachers in that direction. This brought him into connection 
with the Dutch Boers of the Cashan mountains, otherwise 
called Magaliesberg. The Boers were emigrants from the 
Cape, who had been dissatisfied with the British rule, and 
especially with the emancipation of their Hottentot slaves, and 
had created for themselves a republic in the north (the 
Transvaal), in order that they might pursue, unmolested, the 
proper treatment of the blacks. "It is almost needless to 
add," says Livingstone, "that proper treatment has always 
contained in it the essential element of slavery, viz., compul- 
sory unpaid labor." The Boers had effected the expulsion of 
Mosilikatse, a savage Zulu warrior, and in return for this 
service they considered themselves sole mastersr of the soil. 
While still engaged in the erection of his dwelling-house at 
Chonuane, Livingstone received notes from the Commandant 
and Council of the emigrants, requesting an explanation of 
his intentions, and an intimation that they had resolved to 
come and deprive Sechele of his fire-arms. About the same 
time he received several very friendly messages and presents 
from Mokhatla, chief of a large section of the Bakhatla, who 
lived about four days eastward of his station, and had once, 
while Livingstone was absent, paid a visit to Chonuane, and 
expressed satisfaction with the idea of obtaining Paul, a native 
convert, as his teacher. As soon as his house was habitable, 
Livingstone proceeded to the eastward, to visit Mokhatla, and 
to confer with the Boers. 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 49 

A raid on Kolobeng was planned by the Boers, 
which Living-stone heard of, and prevented for the 
time by a visit of remonstrance to Mr. Krieger, the 
Commandant; but the cloud hung menacingly over 
the Bakwains. This thought troubled Livingstone, 
who felt that his presence amongst them was becom- 
ing a danger to the tribe. The conviction, too, was 
growing on him that the Kolobeng stream had per- 
manently disappeared, and that the tribe would have 
to move again. Where were they or he to go ? To 
the east the Boers barred the way; on the west and 
north lay the great Kalahari desert, where none but 
Bushmen could live. What was to be done?* 

It was now that the rumors which had reached 
him of a lake away in the north, on the other side of 
the Kalahari desert, and a famous chief who lived 

*In his letters to friends at home, whatever topic Living- 
stone may touch, we see evidence of one over-mastering idea 
— the vastness of Africa, and the duty of beginning a new 
area of enterprise to reach its people. Among his friends 
the Scotch Congregationalists, there had been a keen contro- 
versy on some points of Calvinism. Livingstone did not like 
it; he was not a high Calvinist theoretically, yet he could 
not accept the new views, "from a secret feeling of being 
absolutely at the divine disposal as a sinner;" but these were 
theoretical questions, and with dark Africa around him, he 
did not see why the brethren at home should split on them. 
Missionary influence in South Africa was directed in a wrong 
channel. There were three times too many missionaries in 
the colony, and vast regions beyond lay untouched. He wrote 
to Mr. Watt: "If you meet me down in the colony before 
eight years are expired, you may shoot me." 



50 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

beyond it, came back to him with great force. Sebi- 
tuane, the chief in question, and head of the Mako- 
lolo, had also gathered the remnants of other tribes, 
broken up by wars or flying from the Boers. He 
had saved the Hfe of Sechele in his infancy, and 
estabHshed him in his chieftainship. Sechele re- 
ported him eager to welcome strangers. Moreover, 
he and his tribe had crossed the desert thirty years 
before. Where men had gone, men might follow. 
At this crisis two Englishmen, Murray and Oswell, 
had opportunely arrived on a hunting-tour and were 
eager to join him. The latter, who had been sent on 
by his friend Captain Steele, offered to defray all the 
cost of guides; and so, on June i, 1849, they started 
for the desert. 

Oswell became one of Livingstone's dearest 
friends, and godfather to his third son. "I love 
him," he wrote sixteen years later, ''with true affec- 
tion. I believe he does the same to me, and yet we 
never show it." And again: "You know Oswell 
was one of Arnold's Rugby boys. One could see his 
training in always doing what was brave, and true, 
and right." His fame for feats of strength and 
courage still lingered at his old school, which he had 
left fourteen years before joining Livingstone at 
Kolobeng, and meantime had become a mighty 
hunter. ''When my men wished to flatter me," 
Livingstone wrote, "they would say, 'If you were 
not a missionary jou would be jus^ like Oswell, you 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 51 

would not hunt with dogs/ c o . They declare 
he is the greatest hunter that ever came into the 
country. He has been known to kill four old male 
elephants in a day, and the value of the ivory would 
be one hundred guineas." While admitting the 
prowess of his companions, Livingstone's men 
looked upon them as a kind of lunatic butchers, 
which grieved the good missionary. The Bakwain 
language has no word for sport, so he had difficulty 
in answering such questions as, "Have these hun- 
ters, who come so far and work so hard, no meat at 
home?" ''Why, they are rich; they could kill oxen 
every day. It is for the sake of the play it affords." 
This causes a laugh, as much as to say "Ah, you 
know better," or "Your friends are fools." 

The expedition started with eighty oxen, twenty 
horses, and about twenty men. It proved a toilsome 
and dangerous journey, at first along the beds of 
streams long dry, where water was only procurable 
by deep digging ; afterward across a flat where there 
was none. At one point the oxen were four days 
without water, and their masters scarcely better off. 
When they were at the worst, Oswell saw an object 
skulking along in the bush, and taking it for a lion, 
rode after it. It proved to be a Bushwoman. "She 
thought herself captured, and offered to deliver up 
her property, w^hich consisted of a few traps made of 
cords. When I explained that we only wanted 
wat^r and would pay her, she walked briskly b^ 



52 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

fore our horses for eight miles, and brought us to 
Neckockotsa. We rewarded her with a piece of 
meat and a good, large bunch of beads. At the 
sight of the latter she burst into a merry laugh." 

At Neckockotsa, Oswell w^as the first to discover 
(as he thought) the lake they were bound for. *'He 
threw up his hat in the air and shouted out a huzza 
which made the poor Bushwoman and the Bakwains 
think him mad. I was as much deceived as he." It 
was the mirage. They were yet three hundred miles 
from Lake Ngami. 

But their troubles were over, for on July 4th they 
had cleared the desert and struck a fine river, the 
Zouga. The rest of their journey was along the 
bank of this river, or in canoes, and, to their aston- 
ishment and delight, before reaching the lake they 
came upon another and larger stream, the Tamu- 
nakle. "I inquired whence it came. 'Oh, from a 
country full of rivers — so many no one can tell their 
number, and of large trees.' " Here was a confirma- 
tion of his hopes of a populous country in the unex- 
plored north fit for stations, and so full was his mind 
of this prospect that Lake Ngami no longer seemed 
of importance to him. They reached it on August 
1st, the first white men who had ever looked on it^ 
or at any rate wdio had lived to tell the tale. On 
August 2d Livingstone applied to the chief of this 
end of the lake for guides and canoes to cross the 
Tiimunakle, here quite unfordable. He, jealous of 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 53 

their passing to Sebituane, refused. ''I tried hard 
to form a raft, but the dry wood was so worm-eaten 
that it would not bear the w^eight of a single person. 
I worked many hours in the water, for I was not 
then aware of the number of alligators, and never 
think of my labors without feeling thankful that I 
escaped their jaws." Nothing more could be done. 
Oswell volunteered to go to the Cape and bring up a 
boat for next year, and they turned their faces home- 
ward.* 

Things were getting worse at Kolobeng. The 

♦Hardly were things begun to be settled at Kolobeng, when, 
by way of relaxation, Livingstone (January, 1848) again 
moved eastward. He would have gone sooner, but "a mad 
sort of Scotchman" (Mr. Gordon Gumming) having wan- 
dered past them shooting elephants, and lost all his cattle by 
the bite of the tsetse-fly, Livingstone had to go to his help; 
and moreover the dam, having burst, required to be repaired. 
Sechele set out to accompany him, and intended to go with 
him the whole way ; but some friends having come to visit the 
tribe, he had to return, or at least did return, leaving Living- 
stone four gallons of porridge, and two servants to act in his 
stead. "He is about the only individual," says Livingstone, 
"who possesses distinct, consistent views on the subject of our 
mission. He is bound by his wives : has a curious idea — 
would like to go to another country for three or four years 
in order to study, with the hope that probably his wives would 
have married others in the meantime. He would then return, 
and be admitted to the Lord's Supper, and teach his people 
the knowledge he has acquired. He seems incapable of put- 
ting them away. He feels so attached to them, and indeed 
we, too, feel much attached to most of them. They are our 
best scholars, our constant friends. We earnestly pray that 
they, too, may be enlightened by the Spirit of Giod." 



54 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

drought continued, and not only the men, but women 
and children, were scattered over the country in 
search of roots, caterpillars, or whatever would keep 
life in them. Mrs. Livingstone's children and sew- 
ing classes, numbering each one hundred at one time, 
had disappeared. There was nothing to keep them 
at home, so in April, 1850, accompanied now by his 
wife and three children, and by Sechele, he started 
again for the north.* Sechele left him at the ford 

*The black rhinoceros is one of the most dangerous of the 
wild beasts of Africa, and travellers stand in great awe of it. 
The courage of Dn. Livingstone in exposing himself to the 
risk of such animals on this missionary tour was none the 
less that he himself says not a word regarding it; but such 
courage was constantly shown by him. The following in- 
stances are given on the authority of Dr. Moffat as samples 
of what was habitual to Dr. Livingstone in the performance 
of his duty: 

In going through a wood, a party of hunters were startled 
by the appearance of a black rhinoceros. The furious beast 
dashed at the wagon, and drove his horn into the bowels of 
the driver, inflicting a frightful wound. A messenger was 
despatched in the greatest haste for Dr. Livingstone, whose 
house was eight or ten miles distant. The messenger in his 
eagerness ran the whole way. Livingstone's friends were 
horror-struck at the idea of his riding through the wood at 
night, exposed to the rhinoceros and other deadly beasts. 
"No, no; you must not think of it, Livingstone; it is certain 
death." Livingstone believed it was a Christian duty to try to 
save the poor fellow's life, and he resolved to go, happen what 
might. Mounting his horse, he rode to the scene of the acci- 
dent. The man had died, and the wagon had left, so that 
there was nothing for Livingstone but to return and run the 
risk of the forest anew, without even the hope that he might 
be useful in saving life. 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 55 

vi the Zouga. Farther on they heard of an Enghsh 
^*arty in distress, and hastened sixty miles out of 
their way to aid them. They found them down with 
fever, of which Mr. Rider, the artist of the party, 
was already dead. The rest recovered under Liv- 
ingstone's treatment ; but after he had just managed 
to take them for a paddle in the lake, in which they 
played like ducklings, two of his children and all his 
servants were attacked. Again he reluctantly turned 
homeward, and met Oswell on his way from the 
Cape to keep his promise. It was too late, and 
Oswell turned to his elephant-hunting. Livingstone 
returned to Kolobeng, where his wife was confined 
of a daughter, who died of an epidemic after six 
weeks ; and afterward they went to Kuruman to re- 
cruit. Here he heard from his friend Steele that the 
Royal Geographical Society had voted him twenty- 
five guineas for the discovery of Lake Ngami. "It 
is from the Queen,'' he wrote home. *'You must be 
very loyal, all of you. Oh, you Radicals, don't be 

Another time, when he and a brother missionary were on a 
tour a long way from home, a messenger came to tell his 
companion that one of his children was alarmingly ill. It 
was but natural for him to desire Livingstone to go back 
with him. The way lay over a road infested by lions. Liv- 
ingstone's life would be in danger ; moreover, as we have 
seen, he was intensely desirous to examine the fossil bones 
at the place. But when his friend expressed the desire for 
him to go, he went without hesitation. His firm belief in 
Providence sustained him in these as in so many other dan- 
gers. 



§6 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

thinking it came out of your pockets. Long live 
Victoria !''* 

Sebituane had now heard of the attempts to reach 
him, and sent presents of cattle to Sechele and the 

*But Livingstone was convinced that there must be a 
, healthier spot to the north. Writing to Mr. Watt (i8th 
August, 1850), he not only expresses this conviction, but 
gives the ground on which it rested. The extract which we 
subjoin gives a glimpse of the sagacity that from apparently 
little things drew great conclusions ; but more than that, it 
indicates the birth of the great idea that dominated the next 
period of Livingstone's life — the desire and determination to 
find a passage to the sea, either on the east or the west coast : 

"A more salubrious climate must exist farther up to the 
north, and that the country is higher, seems evident from the 
fact mentioned by the Bakoba, that the water of the Teoge, 
the river that falls into the Ngami at the northwest point 
of it, flows with great rapidity. Canoes ascending, punt all 
the way, and the men must hold on by reeds in order to pre- 
vent their being carried down by the current. Large trees, 
spring-bucks and other antelopes are sometimes brought down 
by it. Do you wonder at my pressing on in the way we have 
done? The Bechuana mission has been carried on in a cul-de- 
sac. I tried to break through by going among the Eastern 
tribes, but the Boers shut up that field. A French missionary, 
Mr. Fredoux, of Motito, tried to follow on my trail to the 
Bamangwato, but was turned back by a party of armed Boers. 
When we burst through the barrier on the north, it appeared 
very plain that no mission could be successful there, unless 
we could get a well-watered country leaving a passage to the 
sea on either the east or west coast. This project I am almost 
afraid to meet, but nothing else will do. I intend (d. v.) to go 
in next year and remain a twelvemonth. My wife, poor soul — 
I pity her ! — proposed to let me go for that time while she 
remained at Kolobeng. You will pray for us both during that 
period." 



KOLOBENG-LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 57 

chiefs on the lake who had hitherto been hostile, and 
a warm invitation to Livingstone. The envoys 
came to Sechele while Livingstone was still at Kuru- 
man, and Sechele allowed them to return without 
informing him. Had they been detained to escort 
the party the sufferings on the third journey might 
have been spared. 

In April, 185 1, he started once more with wife 
and children, and with the intention of settling in 
Sebituane's country if he could find a healthy station. 
Oswell was again with him, and going ahead with 
his men, dug wells for the party in the wagons. All 
went well while they followed the old route, which 
they did to the neighborhood of the lake, after which 
they had to cross a desert tract, the driest they had 
ever met with, in which Shobo, their Bushman guide, 
lost his way. *'He would sit down in the path and 
say, ^No water, all country only — Shobo sleeps — he 
breaks down — country only.' Upon this he would 
coolly curl himself up, and was soon wrapped in 
slumber. On the morning of the fourth day he van- 
ished altogether." They followed, came on a rhi- 
noceros' trail, and saw some birds. There they un- 
yoked the oxen, who rushed off to the west. Next 
morning the supply of water in the wagons was all 
but spent. 'Tt was a bitterly anxious time, and the 
less there was the more thirsty the little rogues be- 
came. The idea of their perishing before our eyes 
was terrible. It would have almost been a relief to 



58 ntE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

me to have been reproached as being the entire 
cause; but not one syllable of upbraiding was uttered 
by their mother, though the tearful eye told the 
i agony within. In the afternoon of the fifth day, to 
^ our inexpressible relief, some of the men returned 
with a supply of the fluid, of which we had never 
felt the true value. . . o Shobo had found his 
way to the river Mababe, and appeared when we 
came to the river at the head of a party. As he 
wished to show his importance before his friends, he 
walked up and ordered our whole cavalcade to halt, 
and bring out fire and tobacco. We stopped to ad- 
mire the acting, and though he had left us in the 
lurch, we all liked this fine specimen of that wonder- 
ful people, the Bushmen." No better specimen 
could be found than this, of the long-suffering and 
charity which carried him safely through all his 
African wanderings. "What a wonderful people 
the Bushmen are !" his Journal runs ; "always merry 
and laughing, and never telling lies like the Bechu- 
ana. They have more appearance of worship than 
any of the Bechuana. When will these dwellers in 
the wilderness bow down before their Lord ? I often 
wished I knew their language, but never more than 
when we traveled with our Bushman guide, 
Shobo."* 

*Livingstone had given a fair trial to the expeiriment of 
travelling along with his family. In one of his letters at this 
time he speaks of the extraordinary pain caused by the mos- 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI— THE ZAMBEZI. 69 

Oswell and Livingstone now went ahead of their 
party, and found Sebituane, who had come down to 
meet them on an island. All his principal men were 
with him. He was about forty-five, tall, wiry, of 
olive complexion, cool and collected in manner, and 
more frank than any chief Livingstone ever met ; the 
greatest warrior in Central Africa, and always led 
his men into battle himself. He gave them food, 
and prepared skins of oxen as soft as cloth to sleep 
on, and next morning was sitting by their fire before 
the dawn. 

They accompanied him to his home, living with 
him on the way, and hearing the story of his event- 
ful life. He now ruled over all the tribes of an im- 
mense tract of country, as benevolent in peace as he 
had been courageous in war. "He had the art of 
gaining the affections both of his own people and 
strangers. . . , When poor men came to trade 
he would go along to them, talk with them, and feed 
them. Thus he knew all that happened in the coun- 

. quitoes of those parts, and of his children being so covered 
with their bites, that not a square inch of whole skin was to 
be found on their bodies. It is no wonder that he gave up 
the idea of carrying them with him in the more extended 
journey he was now contemplating. He could not leave them 
at Kolobeng, exposed to the raids of the Boers; to Kuruman 
there were also invincible objections; the only possible plan 
was to send them to England, though he hoped that when 
he got settled in some suitable part of Sebituane's dominions, 
with a; free road to the sea, they would return to him, and 
help him to bring the people to Christ. 



60 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

try. He never allowed a party of strangers to go 
away without giving a present to every one, servants 
and all. Thus his praises w^ere sounded far and 
wide. *He has a heart ! He is wise/ were the ex- 
pressions we heard before we saw him." 

He offered a settlement in any part of his country, 
and, had he lived, the whole course of Livingstone's 
career might have been changed. But Sebituane 
sickened of inflammation of the lungs. Livingstone 
feared to treat him medically, and appealed to his 
native doctors. "Your fear is prudent and wise," 
they said; **the people would blame you." "I visited 
him in company with my little boy Robert on the 
Sunday afternoon on which he died. 'Come near,' 
said Sebituane, *and see if I am any longer a man. 
I am done.' I ventured to assent, and added a single 
sentence regarding hope after death. 'Why do you 
speak of death ?' said one of a relay of fresh doctors ; 
'Sebituane will never die.' I rose to depart, when he 
raised himself up a little, called a servant, and said, 
'Take Robert to Manuku' (one of his wives), 'and 
tell her to give him some milk.' These were the last 
words of Sebituane. . « . He was decidedly the 
best specimen of a native chief I ever met. I was 
never so much grieved at the loss of a black man."* 



*In his Journal, Livingstone gives way to his feelings as he 
very seldom allowed himself to do. His words bring to mind 
David's lament for Jonathan or for Absalom, although he had 
known Sebituane less than a month, and he was one of the 



KOLOBENG— LAKE NGAMI-THE ZAMBEZI. 61 

His daughter Mamochishane succeeded, and was 
equally friendly. Oswell and Livingstone made a 
journey of one hundred and thirty miles to the 
northeast at the end of June and discovered the Zam- 
besi, already upward of three hundred yards broad, 
hitherto supposed to rise far to the east, but found 
no healthy spot for settlement, so returned for the 
last time to Kolobeng.* 

race whom many Boers and slave-stealers regarded as having 
no souls: 

"Poor Sebituane, my heart bleeds for thee ; and what would 
I not do for thee now? I will weep for thee till the day of 
my death. Little didst thou think when, in the visit of the 
white man, thou sawest the long-cherished desires of years 
accomplished, that the sentence of death had gone forth ! 
Thou thoughtest that thou shouldst procure a weapon from 
the white man which would be a shield from the attacks of the 
fierce Matabele ; but a more deadly dart than theirs was aimed 
at thee; and though thou couldst well ward off a dart — none 
ever better — thou didst not see that of the king of terrors. 
I will weep for thee, my brother, and I will cast forth my 
sorrows in despair for thy condition ! But I know that thou 
wilt receive no injustice whither thou are gone; 'Shall not the 
Judge of all the earth do right?' I leave thee to Him. Alas! 
alas ! Sebituane. I might have said more to him. God for- 
give me. Free me from blood-guiltiness. If I had said more 
of death I might have been suspected as having foreseen the 
event, and as guilty of bewitching him. I might have recom- 
mended Jesus and his great atonement more. It is, however, 
very difficult to break through the thick crust of ignorance 
which envelops their minds." 

*While Kolobeng was Livingstone's headquarters, a new 
trouble rose upon the mission horizon. The Makololo (as 
Sebituane's people were called) began to practice the slave- 
trade. It arose simply from their desire to possess guns. 



62 THE LIFE OP DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Livingstone's mind was now made up. His fam- 
ily could not stay at Kolobeng. He had found no 
new station to the north. He would send them to 
England, while he returned himself to search for a 
healthy district in the interior, with a path either to 
the east or west coast. With this view he started 
for Cape Town in April, 1852, and passed through 
the centre of the colony in the twentieth month of a 
Caffre war. "Those who periodically pay enormous 
sums for these inglorious affairs may like to know 
that our little, unprotected party could travel with as 
little danger as if we had been in England. Where 
does the money go, and who has benefited by this 
blood and treasure expended ?" 

He arrived at Cape Town, after eleven years of 

For eight old muskets they had given to a neighboring tribe 
eight boys, that had been taken from their enemies in war, 
being the only article for which the guns could be got. Soon 
after, in a fray against another tribe, two hundred captives 
were taken, and, on returning, the Makololo met some Arab 
traders from Zanzibar, who for three muskets received about 
thirty of their captives. 

Writing" to the Directors (October, 1851), he says: 
"You will see by the accompanying sketch-map what an 
immense region God in his grace has opened up. If we can 
enter in and form a settlement, we shall be able in the course 
of a very few years to put a stop to the slave-trade in that 
quarter. It is probable that the mere supply of English manu- 
facturers on Sebituane's part will effect this, for they did not 
like the slave-trade, and promised to abstain. I think it will 
be impossible to make a fair commencement unless I can 
secure two years devoid of family cares. I shall be obliged 



KOLOBENG^LAKE NGAMI-TME ZAMBEZI. 63 

missionary life, to find himself an object of suspicion 
to the authorities and his brethren. He had already 
anticipated his whole salary (£ioo) for 1852 and 
half that of 1853. Happily, Oswell was with him, 
and "made all comfortable" financially, on the plea 
that Livingstone had as good a right as he to the 
money drawn from the preserves on his estate. 

He had written with perfect frankness to his 
Directors as to his intentions. "Consider the multi- 
tudes that have been brought to light by the Provi- 
dence of God in the country of Sebituane. , . , 
Nothing but a strong conviction that the step will 
lead to the glory of Christ would make me orphanize 

to go southward, perhaps to the Cape, to have my uvula 
excised and my arm mended (the latter, if it can be done, 
only). It has occurred to me that, as we must send our chil- 
dren to England, it would be no great additional expense to 
send them now along with their mother. This arrangement 
would enable me to proceed, and devote about twO' or perhaps 
three years to this new region ; but I must beg your sanction, 
and if you please let it be given or withheld as soon as you 
can conveniently, so that it might meet me at the Cape. To 
orphanize my children will be like tearing out my bowels, but 
when I can find time to write you fully you will perceive it is 
the only way, except giving up that region altogether. 

"Kuruman will not answer as a residence, nor yet the 
Colony. If I were to follow my own inclinations, they would 
lead me to settle down quietly with the Bakwains, or some 
other small tribe, and devote some of my time to my children ; 
but Providence seems to call me to the regions beyond, and 
if I leave them anywhere in this country, it will be to let them 
become heathens. If you think it right to support them, I 
believe my parents in Scotland would attend to them other- 
wise." 



64 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

my children. Even now my bowels yearn over 
them. They will forget me; but I hope when the 
day of trial comes I shall not be found a more sorry 
soldier than those who serve an earthly sovereign. 
Should you not feel yourself justified in incurring 
the expense of their support in England, I shall feel 
called upon to renounce the hope of carrying the 
Gospel into that country. But stay. I am not sure. 
So powerfully a.m I convinced it is the will of our 
Lord I should, I will go, no matter who opposes ; but 
from you I expect nothing but encouragement. I 
know you wish as ardently as I can that all the world 
may be filled with the glory of the Lord. I feel re- 
lieved when I lay the whole case before you." Mrs. 
Livingstone and the four children sailed for England 
on April 23, 1852. 



CHAPTER IV. 

UNYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 
1852-53. 

Livingstone was now ready to start on the jour- 
ney which resulted in the opening of routes from 
Central Africa to the west and east coasts, and the 
discovery of the Victoria Falls ; but the way was still 
beset with difficulties. The Missionary Societies 
were regarded as ''unpatriotic" by the authorities at 
the Cape; and he, as the most outspoken of critics, 
and the most uncompromising denouncer of the 
slave-trade and champion of the natives, came in for 
a double share of their suspicion. On the other 
hand, his brethren gave him only a half-hearted sup- 
port, and doubted his orthodoxy. He found great 
difficulty even in procuring ammunition. A country 
postmaster, whom he had accused of overcharging, 
threatened an action at the last moment, which he 
compromised rather than be detained longer. As it 
was, he had anticipated his meagre salary by more 
than a year, and had to be content with very inferior 
oxen, and a wagon which required constant mending 
throughout the journey. Happily, however, the 
delay at the Cape enabled him to have his uvula, 

65 



QQ THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

which had been troubling him for years, excised, and 
to renew his astronomical studies with his friend the 
Astronomer-Royal (Sir T. ^laclear), so that he was 
able to lay down the exact geographical positions in 
all his subsequent journeys. "He could take the 
complete lunar observations and altitudes for time in 
fifteen minutes. ... I say what that man has 
done is unprecedented. . . . You could go to 
any point across the entire continent along Liv- 
ingstone's track and feel certain of your posi- 
tion. . . . His are the finest specimens of sound 
geographical observation I have ever met with," was 
Sir Thomas' testimony four years later, when the 
great journey was finished.* On June 8, 1852, then, 

*0n the 23d April, 1852, Mrs. Livingstone and the four 
children sailed from Cape Town for England. The sending 
of his children to be brought up by others was a very great 
trial, and Dr. Livingstone seized the opportunity to impress 
on the Directors that those by whom missionaries were sent 
out had a great duty to the children whom their parents were 
compelled to send away. His family were much in his 
thoughts ; he found some relief in writing by every mail. His 
letters to his wife are too sacred to be spread before the pub- 
lic; we confine ourselves to a single extract, to show over 
what a host of suppressed emotions he had to march in this 
expedition : 

"Cape Town, 5^/1 May, 1852. — My Dearest Mary — How I 
miss you now, and the children ! My heart yearns incessanth^ 
over you. How many thoughts of the past crowd into my 
mind I I feel as if I w^ould treat you all much more tenderly 
and lovingly than ever. You have been a great blessing to 
me. You attended to my comfort in many, many ways. May 
God bless you for all your kindnesses ! I see no face now to 



LINYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 67 

he at last got away, taking with him a Mr. Fleming, 
the agent of his friend, Mr. Rutherford, a Cape mer- 
chant, in the hope of by degrees substituting legiti- 
mate traffic for that in slaves. 

The heavy Cape wagon with its ten poor oxen 
dragged heavily northward. Livingstone had so 
loaded himself with parcels for stations up country, 
and his wagon and team were so inferior, that it was 
not till September that he reached Kuruman. Here 
he was detained by the breaking down of a wheel. 
The accident was a happy one, for in these same days 
the storm which had been so long threatening from 
the Transvaal broke over the Bakwain country. 
After Livingstone's departure for the Cape, Sechele 
had sent all his children but two to Kuruman, to Dr. 

be compared with that sunburnt one which has so often 
greeted me with its kind looks. Let us do our duty to our 
Saviour, and we shall meet again. I wish that time were 
now. You may read the letters over again which I wrote at 
Mabotsa, the sweet time you know. As I told you before, I 
tell you again, they are true, true ; there is not a bit of hypoc- 
risy in them. I never show all my feelings ; but I can say 
truly, my dearest, that I loved you when I married you, and 

the longer I lived with you, I loved you the better 

Let us do our duty to Christ, and He will bring us through 
the world with honor and usefulness. He is our refuge and 
high tower ; let us trust in Him at all times, and in all circum- 
stances. Love Him more and more, and diffuse His love 
among the children. Take them all around you, and kiss 
them for me. Tell them I have left them for the love oi 
Jesus, and they must love Him, too, and avoid sin, for that 
displeases Jesus. I shall be delighted to hear of you all safe 
in England. . . ." 



68 THE LIFZ OF D-WTD LmNGSTOXR 

Moffat's schc^oL Now, while Livingstone was at 
work on his wagon- wheel, Masabele, Sechele's wife, 
hfonght down a letter from her husband to the Doc- 
tor. "Friend oi my heart's love," it ran, "and of all 
the oonfidence of my heart, I am Sechele. I am 
midcMie by the Boers, who attacked me, though I 
faaTe no guilt with them. They demanded that I 
should be in their kingdom, and I refused- They 
demanded that I should prevent the English and 
(kiquas from passing. I rq)lied, ^These are my 
friends, and I can prevent no one.' They came on 
Saturday, and I besought tliem not to fight on Sun- 
day, and they assented- They began on Monday 
morning at twilight, and fired with all thdr might, 
and burned the town with fire, and scattered us. 
They kUkd sixty of my people, and captured women 
and dnldren and moL They took all the cattle and 
all the goods of the Bakwains : and the house of Liv- 
ingstcHie they pltmdered, taking away all his goods. 
AQ the goods of the hunters" (Oswell and others) 
"were burnt, and of the Boers were killed twenty- 
dght. Yes, my beloved frioid, now my wife goes 
to see tiie children, and Kobus Har will convey her 
to yon. I am Sediele, the son of Mochoasele." 
"The Boers," Livingstone writes to his wife some 
dajrs later, "gutted our house. They brought four 
wagims down, and took away so^ table, bed, all the 
croe k eiy, yoor de^ (I hope it had nothing in it. 
Have you the letters?), smashed the wooden chairs. 



LINYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 69 

took away the iron ones, tore out the leaires of aH the 
books and scattered them in front of tlic honse; 
smashed the medicine bottles, windows, oven door; 
took away the smith-bellows, anvil, all the tools^ 
three com-mills, a bag of coffee for wiiidi I paid £6, 
and lots of co£tee, tea, sugar, wfaidi Ae gendenKn 
who went north left; took all otir catde, and Panfs 
and Mabalwe's, . . . They set fire to the town, 
and the heat forced the women to fly, and the men 
to huddle together on the small hill in Ac middle of 
the town- The smc^ce presented them seeing the 
Boers, and the cannon killed sixty Bakwains. The 
Boers then came near to kill and destroy them all; 
but the Bakwains killed thirty-five and many horses. 
They fought the whole day ; but the Boers conld not 
dislodge them. They stopped firing at night, and 
the Bakwains retired on account of having no 
water. . . . All the com is burned. Parties 
went out and btu^ed Bangwaketse, and swept off all 
the cattle. Sebube's c^-le ^re all gone. All the 
Bakatla cattle gone. Xeiiher Bangwaketse zlzt 
Bakatla fired a shoL All the com burned of all zhii£: 
tribes. Everything edible taken from them. How 
win they live? . . . They inen expressed a 
wish to get hold of me. I wait here a little in order 
to get information when the path is clear. Kind 
Providence prevented me from falling into the - erj 
thick of it God wiH preserve me stifl. Hr 
work for me to do." 'TTiink," he writes to hi^ 



70 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

friend Watt, "of a big, fat Boeress drinking coffee 
out of my kettle, and then throwing her tallowy cor- 
poreity on my sofa, or keeping her needles in my 
wife's writing-desk. Ugh! and then think of fool- 
ish John Bull paying so many thousands a year for 
the suppression of th^ slave-trade and allowing com- 
missions even to make treaties with the Boers, who 
carry it on. The Boers are mad with rage against 
me because my people fought bravely. It was I, they 
think, that taught them to shoot Boers. Fancy your 
reverend friend teaching the young idea to shoot 
Boers, and praying for a blessing on the work of his 
hands!" 

Sechele, after a vain effort to get to England to 
lay his case before the Queen, was helped back from 
the Cape by English officers. He went back, and 
gathered the remnants of the Bakwains, and eight 
other tribes, round him, and became more powerful 
than before the sack of Kolobeng. Four years later 
Livingstone writes : "Sechele has, though unbidden 
by man, been teaching his own people. In fact, he 
has been doing all that I was prevented from doing, 
and I have been employed in exploring — ^a work I 
had no previous intention of performing. I think 
I see the operation of the Unseen Hand in all this."* 

*But while he could relax playfully at the thought of the 

desolation at Kolobeng, he knew how to make it the occasion 
likewise of high resolves. The Boers, as he wrote the Direc- 
tors, were resolved to shut up the interior. He was deter- 



LINYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 71 

Livingstone was now more determined than ever 
to open out the country to the north. The more the 
Boers threatened to pursue on horseback, the more 
fixed was his resolve; but these threats, and the 
neighborhood of Boer marauding parties, added to 
the difficulty of his task by alarming the natives. It 
was not till November 20th that he and Fleming 
could get wagon-drivers. At last six were hired 
who were ready to risk the journey to Linyanti. 
"To be sure, they were the worst possible specimens 
of those who imbibe the vices without the virtues of 
Europeans ; but we had no choice, and were glad to 
get away on any terms." 

Giving the Boers a wide berth, they took a route 
to the west, over the Kalahari desert; but even as it 
was, came on the skirts of a war between the Boers 
and Barolongs. "A Caffre war in stage the sec- 
ond," he describes it. "The third stage is when both 
sides are equally well armed and afraid of each other. 
The fourth, when the English take up a quarrel not 
their own and the Boers slip out of the fray." The 
Bakwains joined the Barolongs, and "the Boers sent 
four of their number to ask for peace. I was pres- 
ent and heard the conditions. Sechele's children 
must be restored to him. Strong bodies of armed 



mined, with God's help, to open the country. Time would 
show which would be most successful in resolution — they or 
he. To his brother-in-law he wrote that he would open a 
path through the country, or perish, 



72 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Bakwains occupied every pass in the hills, and had 
not the four ambassadors promised much more than 
they performed, that day would have been their last. 
The Commandant Scholz had taken the children of 
Sechele to be his own domestic slaves. I saw one of 
them returned to his mother. He had been allowed 
to roll into the fire, and there were three large, un- 
bound sores on his body. His mother and the 
women received him with floods of tears. I took 
down the names of some scores of boys and girls, 
many of whom I knew to be our scholars; but I 
could not comfort any of the mothers with any hope 
of their return from captivity." 

The journey to Linyanti by the new route was 
very trying. Part of the country was flooded, and 
they were wading all day, and forcing their way 
through reeds with sharp edges "with our hands all 
raw and bloody." On emerging from the swamps, 
"when walking before the wagon in the morning 
twilight, I observed a lioness about fifty yards from 
me in the squatting way they walk when going to 
spring. She was followed by a very large lion, but 
seeing the wagon she turned back."* 

*Two years before, he had been at Linyanti with Mr. Oswell. 
Many details of the new journey are given in the "Mis- 
sionary Travels," which it is unnecessary to repeat. It may 
be enough to state that he found the country flooded, and 
that on the way it was no unusual thing for him to be wet all 
day, and to walk through swamps and water three or four 
feet deep. Trees, thorns and reeds offered tremendous regist- 



LINYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 73 

It required all his tact to prevent guides and ser- 
vants from deserting. Every one but himself was 
attacked by fever. "I would like," says the Journal, 
"to devote a portion of my life to the discovery of a 
remedy for that terrible disease, the African fever. 
I would go into the parts where it prevails most and 
try to discover if the natives have a remedy for it. 
I must make many inquiries of the river people in 
this quarter." Again, in another key : "Am I on my 
way to die in Sebituane's country ? Have I seen the 
last of my wife and children, leaving this fair world 
and knowing so little of it?" February 4th : "I am 
spared in health while all the company hav^ been 
attacked by fever. If God has accepted my service, 
my life is charmed till my work is done. When 
that is finished, some simple thing will give me my 
quietus. Death is a glorious event to one going to 
Jesus." 

Their progress was tedious beyond all precedent. 
"We dug out several wells, and each time had to 

ance, and he and his people must have presented a pitiable 
sight when forcing their way through reeds with clitting 
edges. "With our own hands all raw and bloody, and knees 
through our trousers, we at length emerged." It was a happy 
thought to tear his pocket-handkerchief into two parts and tie 
them over his knees. "I remember," he says in his Journal, 
referring to last year's journey, "the toil which our friend 
Oswell endured on our account. He never spared himself." 
It is not to be supposed that his guides were happy in such a 
march; it required his tact stretched to its very utmost to 
prevent them from turning back. 



74 THE LlfE OF DaVID LIVINGSTONE. 

wait a day or two till enough water flowed in to 
allow our cattle to quench their thirst." 

At last, however, at the end of May, he reached 
the Chobe river and was kgain amongst his favorite 
' Makololo. "He has dropped from the clouds," the 
first of them said. They took the wagon to pieces, 
and carried it across on canoes lashed together, while 
they themselves swam and dived amongst the oxen 
''more like alligators than men." Sekeletu, son of 
Sebituane, was now chief, his elder sister Mamochi- 
shane having resigned in disgust at the number of 
husbands she had to maintain as chieftainess. Poor 
Mamochishane ! after a short reign of a few months 
she had risen in the assembly and "addressed her 
brother with a womanly gush of tears. 'I have been 
a chief only because my father wished it. I would 
always have preferred to be married and have a fam- 
ily like other women. You, Sekeletu, must be chief, 
and build up our father's house.' " 

Sekeletu was eighteen years old, five feet seven 
inches in height, equal to his father neither in stature 
nor ability, but equally friendly to Livingstone. He 
sent ample supplies, and the court-herald to welcome 
them, who advanced leaping and shouting at the top 
of his voice, "Don't I see the white man? Don't I 
see the father of Sekeletu? We want sleep. Give 
your son sleep, my lord." 

Since Livingstone's last visit the half-caste Portu- 
guese had appeared from the west, and already a 



LINYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. ^ 

traffic in slaves was going on, the dealers having 
gained a footing amongst the Mambari, a neighbor- 
ing tribe ; and begun intriguing with Mpepe, another 
son of Sebituane, a pretender to the chieftainship, 
which he hoped to gain by the aid of these new allies, 
armed with guns.* 

Livingstone was surprised at the cordiality of his 
reception by chief and people. "God has touched 
their hearts. I have used no undue influence. Kind- 
ness shown has been appreciated here, while much 
greater kindness shown to tribes in the south has 
resulted in the belief that we missionaries must be 
fools.'* The first wish of chief and people was to 
obtain the "gun medicine.'* They had got guns at 

*In the progress of their journey they came to the town 
of the father of Mpepe, where, most unexpectedly, Living- 
stone encountered a horrible scene. Mpepe's father and an- 
other headman were known to have favored the plan for the 
murder of Sekeletu, and were therefore objects of fear to the 
latter. When all were met, and Mpepe's father was ques- 
tioned why he did not stop his son's proceedings, Sekeletu 
suddenly sprang to his feet and gave the two men intc cus- 
tody. All had been planned beforehand. Forthwith they 
were led away, surrounded by Sekeletu's warriors, all dream 
of opposition on their part being as useless as interference 
would have been on Livingstone's. Before his eyes he saw 
them hewn to pieces with axes, and cast into the river to be 
devoured by the alligators. Within two hours of their arrival 
the whole party had left the scene of this shocking tragedy, 
Livingstone being so horrified that he could not remain. He 
did his best to show the sin of blood-guiltiness, and bring 
before the people the scene of the Last Judgment, which was 
the only thing that seemed to make any impression. 



76 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

last, but could not shoot — surely now his heart 
would warm to them, and he would give them the 
medicine. ''But I could not tell them a lie. I 
offered to show Sekeletu how to shoot, and that was 
all the medicine I knew." After a short rest he 
began to make excursions with Sekeletu to explore 
the country round Linyanti. In these he was al- 
ways enforcing on his companions the duty of living 
peaceably with their neighbors. At one time he even 
prevailed on Sekeletu to send presents to Lechula- 
tebe, the powerful chief in the Lake Ngami district, 
which brought no proper return. "I prevailed on 
the Makololo to keep the peace during my stay, but 
could easily see that public opinion was against spar- 
ing a tribe of Bechuanas. The young men ex- 
claimed 'Lechulatebe is herding our cows for us.' " 
At another, a party of hippopotamus hunters from 
the Loeti fled on their approach, leaving their canoes 
and their contents. On these his followers "rushed 
like furies regardless of my shouting. As this 
would have destroyed my character at Lobale, I 
forced them to lay down all the plunder on a sand- 
bank and leave it for the owners." Sixty miles to 
the north they came on a stockade full of slaves 
erected by the Mambari, amongst whom was Mpepe, 
the rebel brother of Sekeletu. Some of Mpepe's 
men divulged a plot for the murder of Sekeletu. 
The rivals met in a hut for conference. ''Being 
tired with riding, I asked Sekeletu where I should 



LINYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. "J"? 

sleepo He replied, 'Come, I will show you/ As we 
rose together I unconsciously covered his body with 
mine, and saved him from the blow of the assassin. 
When Sekeletu showed me the hut in which I was 
to pass the night he said, 'That man wishes to kill 
me/ The chief resolved to be beforehand with him. 
He sent men to seize him, and he was led out a mile 
and speared. This is the common mode of executing 
criminals." Mpepe's men fled, and the Makololo 
proposed to attack the Mambari stockade. Dread- 
ing an outbreak of war, Livingstone urged that it 
would be hard to take, being defended by muskets. 
" 'Hunger is strong enough for that,' said an under 
chief, 'a very great fellow is he.' As the chief suf- 
ferers would have been the poor slaves chained in 
gangs, I interceded for them, and they were allowed 
to depart." 

In the Barotse valley they passed a town in which 
were two of Mpepe's chief confederates. On Sekele- 
tu's arrival they were seized and tossed into the 
river. "When I remonstrated against human life 
being wasted in this off-hand way, my companions 
justified the act by the evidence given by Mamochi- 
shane, and calmly added, 'You see, we are still Boers, 
we are not yet taught.' "* 

*During the time thus spent in the Barotse country, Living- 
stone saw heathenism in its most unadulterated form. It was 
a painful, loathsome, and horrible spectacle. His views of 
the Fall and of the corruption of human nature were certainly 
not lightened by the sight ly his Journal he is constantly 



78 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

On these journeys the camp had often to be sup- 
pHed with meat, and the Makololo shot so badly that 
"I was obHged to go myself to save my pow- 
der. ... I was in closer contact with heathens 
than I had ever been before, and though all were as 
kind to me as possible, yet to endure the dancing, 
roaring, and singing, the jesting, grumbling, quar- 
rellings, and murderings of these children of nature, 
was the severest penance I had yet undergone in the 
course of my missionary duties." 

After each excursion they returned to Linyanti, 
where Livingstone worked hard as missionary and 
doctor. Sekeletu pressed him to name anything he 
desired, and it should be given. *1 explained that 
my object was to elevate him and his people to be 
Christians. He replied he did not wish to learn to 



letting fall expressions of weariness at the noise, the excite- 
ment, the wild savage dancing, the heartless cruelty, the 
utter disregard of feelings, the destruction of children, the 
drudgery of the old people, the atrocious murders with which 
he was in contact. Occasionally he would think of other scenes 
of travel; if a friend, for example, were going to Palestine, 
he would say how gladly he would kiss the dust that had 
been trod by the Man of Sorrows. One day a poor girl comes 
hungry and naked to the wagons, and is relieved from time to 
time ; then disappears to die in the woods of starvation or be 
torn in pieces by the hyenas. Another day, as he is preaching, 
a boy, walking along with his mother, is suddenly seized by 
a man, utters a shriek as if his heart had burst, and becomes, 
as Livingstone finds, a hopeless slave. Another time, the 
sickening sight is a line of slaves attached by a chain. That 
chain haunts and harrows him. 



LlNYANTl AND THE MAKOLOLO. ^0 

read the Book, for he was afraid it might change his 
heart, and make him content with one wife, like 
Sechele. No, no, he wanted always to have five 
wives at least." 

He held regular services to large congregations. 
" When I stand up all the women and children draw 
near, and, having ordered silence, I explain the plan 
of salvation, the goodness of God in sending His 
Son to die, etc., always choosing one subject, and 
taking care to make it short and plain. A short 
prayer concludes the service, all kneeling down and 
remaining till told to rise. At first we have to tell 
the women who have children to remain sitting, for 
when they kneel they squeeze the children, and a 
simultaneous skirl is set up by the whole troop of 
youngsters, who make the prayer inaudible." 

And again and again in the Journal are entries of 
**large and attentive audiences," but no concealment 
of the conviction that the effect is superficial. "They 
listen, but never suppose the truth must be embodied 
in actual life. . . .A minister who had not 
seen so much pioneer service as I have done would 
have been shocked to see so little effect pro- 
duced. . . . We can afford to work in faith. . . . 
When we view the state of the world and its advanc- 
ing energies by childlike, or call it childish, faith, we 
see the earth filling with the knowledge of the glory 
of God — aye, all nations seeing His glory and bow- 
ing before Him whose right it is to reign. We work 



80 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

toward another state of things. Future missionaries 
will be rewarded by conversions for every sermon. 
We are their pioneers. They will doubtless have 
more light than we, but we served our Master 
earnestly and proclaimed the same Gospel they 
will do."* 

*"i3th October. — Missionaries ought to cultivate a taste for 
the beautiful. We are necessarily compelled to contemplate 
much moral impurity and degradation. We are so often 
doomed to disappointment. We are apt to become either 
callous or melancholy, or, if preserved from these, the constant 
strain on the sensibilities is likely to injure the bodily health. 
On this account it seems necessary to cultivate that faculty for 
the gratification of which God has made such universal pro- 
vision. See the green earth and blue sky, the lofty mountain 
and the verdant valley, the glorious orbs of day and night, 
and the stajry canopy with all their celestial splendor, the 
graceful flowers so chaste in form and perfect in coloring. 
The various forms of animated life present to him whose 
heart is at peace with God through the blood of His Son an 
indescribable charm. He sees in the calm beauties of nature 
such abundant provision for the welfare of humanity and ani- 
mate existence. There appears on the quiet repose of earth's 
scenery the benignant smile of a Father's love. The sciences 
exhibit such wonderful intelligence and design in all their 
various ramifications, some time ought to be devoted to them 
before engaging in missionary work. The heart may often 
be cheered by observing the operation of an ever-present 
Intelligence, and we may feel that we are leaning on His 
bosom while living in a world clothed in beauty, and robed 
with the glorious perfections of its Maker and Preserver. We 
must feel that there is a Governor among the nations who 
will bring all His plans with respect to our human family to 
a glorious consummation. He who stays his mind on his 
ever-present, ever-energetic God, will not fret himself because 
of evil-doers. He that believeth shall not make haste." 



LINYANTI AND THE MAKOLOLO. 81 

The result of all his excursions with Sekeletu was 
to convince him that there was no hope of finding a 
healthy settlement near Linyanti. The fever had at 
last attacked him, and he was seldom free from it. 
Even the Makololo, he found, were decreasing in 
numbers since they had lived here. So now his 
whole mind was set on the alternative of finding a 
way to the west coast. By degrees the unwilling- 
ness of Sekeletu and his people to let him go was 
overcome. Fleming was sent back to the Cape with 
the men from Kuruman, having by Livingstone's 
help made fair profits for his employer. Living- 
stone's own wagon, with his books and other prop- 
erty, were left at Linyanti. He was well aware that 
the attempt was in the nature of a forlorn hope, but 
wrote to his employers, "Cannot the love of Christ 
carry the missionary where the slave-trade carries 
the trader?" to his father-in-law, "I shall open up a 
path to the interior or perish. I never have had the 
shadow of a shade of doubt as to the propriety of my 
course" ; to his father, "Our intentions are to go up 
the Luba till we reach the falls, then send back the 
canoe and proceed in the country beyond as best we 
can. May Christ accept my children for His ser- 
vice, and sanctify them for it ! My blessing on my 
wife. May God comfort her ! If my watch comes 
back after I am cut off, it belongs to Agnes. If my 
sextant, it is Robert's. The Paris medal to Thomas. 
Double-barreled gun to Zouga. Be a father to the 



82 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

fatherless and a husband to the widow for Jesus' 
sake. 

"The Boers by taking possession of all my goods 
have saved me the trouble of making a will." 



CHAPTER Vo 

LINYANTI TO LOANDA. 
1853-54. 

On November 11, 1853, he left Linyanti, and 
arrived at Loanda on May 31, 1854. The first 
stages of the journey were to be by water, and Seke- 
letu accompanied him to the Chobe, where he was to 
embark. They crossed five branches before reach- 
ing the main stream, a wide and deep river full of 
hippopotami. *'The chief lent me his own canoe, 
and as it was broader than usual I could turn about 
in it with ease. ... I had three muskets for 
my people, and a rifle and double-barreled shotgun 
for myself. My ammunition was distributed through 
the luggage, that we might not be left without a 
supply. Our chief hopes for food were in our guns. 
I carried twenty pounds of beads worth forty shil- 
lings, a few biscuits, a few pounds of tea and sugar, 
and about twenty pounds of coffee. One small tin 
canister, about fifteen inches square, was filled with 
spare shirts, trousers, and shoes, to be used when we 
reached civilized life, another of the same size was 
stored with medicines, a third with books, and a 
fourth with a magic-lantern, which we found of 
much service. The sextant and other instruments 



84 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

were carried apart. A bag contained the clothes 
we expected to wear out in the journey, which, 
with a small tent just sufficient to sleep in, a sheep- 
skin mantle as a blanket, and a horse-rug as a bed, 
completed my equipment. An array of baggage 
would probably have excited the cupidity of the 
tribes through whose country we wished to pass."* 

*Diiring this part of the journey he had constant attacks of 
intermittent fever, accompanied in the latter stages of the road 
with dysentery of the most distressing kind. In the intervals 
of fever he was often depressed alike in body and in mind. 
Often the party were destitute of food of any sort, and never 
had they food suitable for a fever-stricken invalid. The 
vexations he encountered were of no common kind : at start- 
ing, the greater part of his medicines was stolen, much though 
he needed them; in the course of the journey, his pontoon 
was left behind ; at one time, while he was under the influence 
of fever, his riding-ox threw him, and he fell heavily on his 
head ; at another, while crossing a river, the ox tossed him 
into the water; the heavy rains, and the necessity of wading 
through streams three or four times a day, kept him almost 
constantly wet; and occasionally, to vary the annoyance, mos- 
quitoes would assail him as fiercely as if they had been waging 
a war of extermination. The most critical moments of peril, 
demanding the utmost coolness and most dauntless courage, 
would sometimes occur during the stage of depression after 
fever; it was then he had to extricate himself from savage 
warriors, who vowed that he must go back, unless he gave 
them an ox, a gun, or a man. The ox he could ill spare, the 
gun not at all, and as for giving the last — a man — to make a 
slave of, he would sooner die. At the best, he was a poor 
ragged skeleton when he reached those who had hearts to feel 
for him and hands to help him. Had he not been a prodigy of 
patience, faith, and courage, had he not known where to find 
help in all time of his tribulation, he would never have reached 
the haunts of civilized men, 



LINYANTI TO LOANDA. 85 

The voyage up the Chobe, and the Zambesi after 
the junction of those rivers, was prosperous but 
slow, in consequence of stoppages opposite villages. 
*'My man Pitsane knew of the generous orders of 
Sekeletu, and was not disposed to allow them to 
remain a dead letter." In the rapids, ''the men 
leaped into the water without the least hesitation to 
save the canoes from being dashed against obstruc- 
tions, or caught in eddies. They must never be 
allowed to come broadside to the stream, for being 
flat-bottomed they would at once be capsized and 
everything in them lost." When free from fever he 
was delighted to note the numbers of birds, several 
of them unknown, which swarmed on the river and 
its banks, all carefully noted in his Journals. One 
extract must suffice here: "Whenever we step on 
shore a species of plover, a plaguey sort of public- 
spirited individual, follows, flying overhead, and is 
most persevering in its attempts to give warning to 
all animals to flee from the approaching danger," 
But he was already weak with fever ; was seized with 
giddiness whenever he looked up quickly, and if he 
could not catch hold of some support fell heavily — a 
bad omen for his chance of passing through the un- 
known country ahead ; but his purpose never faltered 
for a moment. On January i, 1854, he was still on 
the river, but getting beyond Sekeletu's territory anrl 
allies to a region of dense forests, in the open glades 
of which dwelt the Balonda, a powerful tribe, whose 



B6 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

relations with the Makololo were precarious. Each 
was incHned to raid on the other since the Mambari 
and Portuguese half-castes had appeared with Man- 
chester goods. These excited the intense wonder 
and cupidity of both nations. They listened to the 
story of cotton-mills as fairy dreams, exclaiming, 
"How can iron spin, weave, and print? Truly ye 
are gods!" and were already inclined to steal their 
neighbors' children — those of their own tribe they 
never sold at this time — to obtain these wonders out 
of the sea. Happily Livingstone had brought back 
with him several Balonda children who had been 
carried off by the Makololo. This, and his speeches 
to Manenko, the chieftainess of the district and niece 
of Shinte, the head chief of the Balonda, gained 
them a welcome. This Amazon was a strapping 
young woman of twenty, who led their party 
through the forest at a pace which tried the best 
walkers. She seems to have been the only native 
whose will ever prevailed against Livingstone's. He 
intended to proceed up to her uncle Shinte's town in 
canoes ; she insisted that they should march by land, 
and ordered her people to shoulder his baggage in 
spite of him. *'My men succumbed, and left me 
powerless. I was moving off in high dudgeon to the 
canoes, when she kindly placed her hand on my 
shoulder, and with a motherly look said, 'Now, my 
little man, just do as the rest have done.' My feel- 
ing of annoyance, of course, vanished, and I went 



LINYANTI TO LOANDA. 87 

out to try for some meat. My men, in admiration 
of her pedestrian powers, kept remarking, 'Manenko 
is a soldier,' and we were all glad when she proposed 
a halt for the night." Shinte received them in his 
town, the largest and best laid out that Livingstone 
had seen in Central Africa, on a sort of throne cov- 
ered with leopard skin. The kotla, or place of audi- 
ence, was one hundred yards square. Though in 
the sweating stage of an intermittent fever, Living- 
stone held his own with the chief, gave him an ox as 
''his mouth was bitter from want of flesh," advised 
him to open a trade in cattle with the Makololo, and 
to put down the slave-trade; and, after spending 
more than a week with him, left amid the warmest 
professions of friendship. Shinte found him a guide 
of his tribe, Intemese by name, who was to stay by 
them till they reached the sea, and at a last interview 
hung round his neck a conical shell of such value 
that two of them, so his men assured him, would 
purchase a slave.* 

*In most cases these people were outwardly very repulsive. 
Never seen without a spear or a club in their hands, the men 
seemed only to delight in plunder and slaughter, and yet they 
were utter cowards. Their mouths were full of cursing and 
bitterness. The execrations they poured on each other were 
incredible. In very wantonness, when they met they would 
pelt each other with curses, and then perhaps burst into a fit 
of laughter. The women, like the men, went about in almost 
total nudity, and seemed to know no shame. So reckless were 
the chiefs of human life, that a man might be put to death for 
a single distasteful word; yet sometimes there were exhibi- 



88 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Soon they were out of Shinte's territory, and Inte- 
mese became the plague of the party, though, un- 
luckily, they could not dispense with him altogether 
in crossing the great flooded plains of Lebala. They 
camped at night on mounds, where they had to 
trench round each hut and use the earth to raise their 
sleeping places. "My men turned out to work most 
willingly, and I could not but contrast their conduct 
with that of Intemese, who was thoroughly imbued 
with the slave spirit, and lied on all occasions to save 
himself trouble." He lost the pontoon, too, thereby 
adding greatly to their troubles. They now came to 
the territory of another great chief, Katema, who 
received them hospitably, sending food and giving 
them solemn audience in his kotla, surrounded by 
his tribe. A tall man of forty, dressed in a snuff- 
brown coat, with a broad band of tinsel down the 
arms and a helmet of beads and feathers. He car- 
ried a large fan with charms attached, which he 
waved constantly during the audience, often laugh- 
ing heartily — "a good sign, for a man who shakes 

tions of very tender feeling. The headman of a village once 
showed him, with much apparent feeling, the burnt house of 
a child of his, adding, "She perished in it, and we have all 
removed from our own huts and built here round her, in order 
to weep over her grave." From some of the people he 
received great kindness; others were quite different. Their 
character, in short, was a riddle, and would need to be studied 
more. But the prevalent aspect of things was both dis- 
tressing and depressing. If he had thought of it continuallvj 
he would have become the victim of melancholy. 



LINYANTI TO LOANDA. 89 

his sides with mirth is seldom difficult to deal with." 
"1 am the great Moene Katema," was his address; 
"I and my fathers have always lived here, and there 
is my father's house. I never killed any of the 
traders ; they all come to me. I am the great Moene 
Katema, of whom you have heard." On hearing 
Livingstone's object, he gave him three guides, who 
would take him by a northern route, along which no 
traders had passed, to avoid the plains, impassable 
from the floods. He accepted Livingstone's present 
of a shawl, a razor, some beads and buttons, and a 
powder-horn graciously, laughing at his apologies 
for its smallness, and asking him to bring a coat 
from Loanda, as the one he was wearing was old. 

From this point troubles multiplied, and they 
began to be seriously pressed for food. The big 
game had disappeared, and they were glad to catch 
moles and mice. Every chief demanded a present 
for allowing them to pass, and the people of the 
villages charged exorbitantly for all supplies. On 
they floundered, however, through flooded forests. 
In crossing the river Loka, Livingstone's ox got 
from him, and he had to strike out for the farther 
bank. "My poor fellows were dreadfully alarmed, 
and about twenty of them made a simultaneous rush 
into the water for my rescue, and just as I reached 
the opposite bank one seized me by the arms, and 
another clasped me round the body. When I stood 
up it was most gratifying to see them all struggling 



90 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

toward me. Part of my goods were brought up 
from the bottom when I was safe. Great was their 
pleasure when they found I could swim like them- 
y selves, and I felt most grateful to those poor heathens 
for the promptitude with which they dashed in to my 
rescue." ' Farther on, the people tried to frighten 
them with the account of the deep rivers they had yet 
to cross, but his men laughed. " 'We can all swim/ 
they said; 'who carried the white man across the 
river but himself?' I felt proud of their praise."* 
On March 4th they reached the country of the 
Chiboque, a tribe in constant contact with the slave- 
dealers. Next day their camp was surrounded by 
the nearest chief and his warriors, evidently bent on 
plunder. They paused when they saw Livingstone 
seated on his camp-stool, with his double-barreled 
gun across his knees, and his Makololo ready with 
their javelins. The chief and his principal men sat 
down in front at Livingstone's invitation to talk over 
the matter, and a palaver began as to the fine claimed 

/ *The loneliness of feeling engendered by the absence of 
all human sympathy was trying. "Amidst all the beauty and 
loveliness with which I am surrounded, there is still a feeling 
of want in the soul — as if something more were needed to 
bathe the soul in bliss than the sight of the perfection in 
working and goodness in planning of the great Father of our 
spirits. I need to be purified — fitted for the eternal, to which 
my soul stretches away, in ever-returning longings. I need 
to be made more like my blessed Saviour, to serve my God 
with all my powers. Look upon me, Spirit of the living God, 
and supply all Thou seest lacking." 



LINYANTI TO LOANDA. 91 

by the Chiboque. "The more I yielded, the more 
unreasonable they became, and at every fresh de- 
mand a shout was raised, and a rush made round us 
with brandished weapons. One young man even 
made a charge at my head from behind, but I quickly 
brought round the muzzle of my gun to his mouth 
and he retreated. My men behaved with admirable 
coolness. The chief and his counsellors, by accept- 
ing my invitation to be seated, had placed themselves 
in a trap, for my men had quietly surrounded them, 
and made them feel that there was no chance of 
escaping their spears. I then said that as every- 
thing had failed to satisfy them they evidently meant 
to fight, and if so, they must begin, and bear the 
blame before God. I then sat silent for some time. 
It was certainly rather trying, but I was careful not 
to seem flurried ; and having four barrels ready for 
instant action, looked quietly at the savage scene 
around." The palaver began again, and ended in 
the exchange of an ox for a promise of food, in 
which he was wofully cheated. ''It was impossible 
to help laughing, but I was truly thankful that we 
had so far gained our point as to be allowed to pass 
without shedding human blood." 

He now struck north to avoid the Chiboque, and 
made for the Portuguese settlement of Cassange 
through dense forest and constant wet. Here an- 
other fever fit came on, so violent that 'T could 
scarcely, after some hours' trial, get a lunar observa- 



9^ THE LIFE OF DAVID UVINGSTONE. 

tion in which I could repose confidence. Those who 
know the difficulties of making observations and 
committing them all to paper will sympathize with 
me in this and many similar instances.'* 

At this crisis, when the goal was all but at hand, 
obstacles multiplied till it seemed that after all it 
would never be reached. First his riding ox, Sirid- 
bad — a beast "blessed with a most intractable tem- 
per," and a habit of bolting into the bush to get his 
rider combed off by a climber, and then kicking at 
him — achieved a triumph in his weak state when 
"my bridle broke, and down I came backward on the 
crown of my head, receiving as I fell a kick on the 
thigh. , . . This last attack of fever reduced 
me almost to a skeleton. The blanket which I used 
as a saddle, being pretty constantly wet, caused ex- 
tensive abrasion of the skin, which was continually 
healing and getting sore again." Then the guides 
missed their way and led them back into Chiboque 
territory, where the demands of the chief of every 
village for "a man, an ox, or a tusk," for permission 
to pass, began again. Worst of all, signs of mutiny 
began to show themselves amongst the Batoka men 
of his party, who threatened to turn back. He ap- 
peased them by giving a tired ox to be killed at the 
Sunday's halt. "Having thus, as I thought, silenced 
their murmurs, I sank into a state of torpor, and was 
oblivious of all their noise. On Sunday the muti- 
neers were making a terrible din in preparing the 



LINYANTI TO LOANDA. 93 

skin. I requested them twice to be more quiet as the 
noise pained me, but as they paid no attention to this 
civil request, I put out my head, and, repeating it, 
was answered by an impudent laugh. Knowing that 
discipline would be at an end if this mutiny was not 
quelled, and that our lives depended on vigorously 
upholding authority, I seized a double-barreled pistol 
and darted out with such a savage aspect as to put 
them to precipitate flight. They gave no further 
trouble." Every night now they had to build a 
stockade, and by day to march in a compact body, 
knowing the forest to be full of enemies dogging 
their path, for now they had nothing to give as pres- 
ents, the men havinsr even divested themselves of all 
their copper ornaments to appease the Chiboque har- 
pies. ''Nothing, however, disturbed us, and for my 
part I was too ill to care much whether we were 
attacked or not." They struggled on, the Chiboque 
natives, now joined by bodies of traders, opposing at 
every ford, Livingstone no longer wondering why 
expeditions from the interior failed to reach the 
coast. ''Some of my men proposed to return home, 
and the prospect of being obliged to turn back from 
the threshold of the Portuguese settlements dis- 
tressed me exceedingly. After using all my powers 
of persuasion I declared that if they now returned I 
should go on alone, and returning into my little tent, 
I lifted up my heart to Him who hears the sighing of 
the soul. Presently the head-man came in. 'Do not 



94 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

be disheartened/ he said; Ve will never leave you. 
Wherever you lead, we will follow. Our remarks 
were only made on account of the injustice of these 
people.' Others followed, and with the most artless 
simplicity of manner told me to be comforted — 'they 
were all my children ; they knew no one but Sekeletu 
and me, and would die for me; they had spoken in 
bitterness of spirit, feeling they could do nothing.' " 
On April ist they gained the ridge which overlooks 
the valley of the Quango, and the Portuguese settle- 
ments on the farther bank. 'The descent is so steep 
that I was obliged to dismount, though so weak that 
I had to be supported. Below us, at a depth of i,ooo 
feet, lay the magnificent valley of the Quango. The 
view of the Vale of Clyde, from the spot where Mary 
witnessed the battle of Langside, resembled in minia- 
ture the glorious sight which was here presented 
to our view." On the 4th they were close to the 
Quango, here one hundred and fifty yards broad, 
when they were stopped for the last time by a village 
chief, and surrounded by his men. The usual alter- 
cation ensued, Livingstone refusing to give up his 
blanket — the last article he possessed except his 
watch and instruments and Sekeletu's tusks, which 
had been faithfully guarded — until on board the 
canoes in which they were to cross. "I was trying to 
persuade my people to move on to the bank in spite 
of them, when a young half-caste Portuguese ser- 
geant of militia, Cypriano di Abren, who had come 



LINVANTI TO LOANDA. 95 

across in search of bees'-wax, made his appearance, 
and gave the same advice." They marched to the 
bank — the chief's men opening fire on them but 
without doing any damage — made terms with the 
ferrymen by Cypriano's help, crossed the Quango, 
and were at the end of their troubles. 

Four days they stopped with Cypriano, who 
treated them royally, killing an ox and stripping his 
garden to feast them, and sending them on to Cas- 
sange with provisions of meal ground by his mother 
and her maids. "I carried letters from the Chevalier 
du Prat of Cape Town, but I am inclined to believe 
that my friend Cypriano was influenced by feelings 
of genuine kindness excited by my wretched appear- 
ance." 

At Cassange they were again most hospitably 
treated, and here, before starting for Loanda, three 
hundred miles, they disposed of Sekeletu's tusks, 
which sold for much higher prices than those given 
by Cape traders. *'Two muskets, three small barrels 
of powder, and English calico and baize enough to 
clothe my whole party, with large bunches of beads, 
were given for one tusk, to the great delight of my 
Makololo, who had been used to get only one gun for 
two tusks. With another tusk we purchased calico 
— the chief currency here to pay our way to the 
coast. The remaining two were sold for money to 
purchase a horse for Sekeletu at Loanda." Living- 
stone w^s much struck both by the country he passed 



96 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

through and the terms on which the Portuguese 
lived with the natives. Most of them had families 
by native women, who were treated as European 
children and provided for by their fathers. Half- 
caste clerks sat at table with the whites, and he 
came to the conclusion that "nowhere in Africa is 
there so much good-will between Europeans and 
natives as here."* 

The dizziness produced by his twenty-seven at- 
tacks of fever on the road made it all he could do to 
stick on Sindbad, who managed to give him a last 

*At length Livingstone began to get near the coast, reach- 
ing the outlying Portuguese stations. He was received by 
the Portuguese gentlemen v^^ith great kindness, and his wants 
were generously provided for. One of them gave him the 
first glass of wine he had taken in Africa. Another provided 
him with a suit of clothing. Livingstone invoked the blessing 
of Him who said, "I was naked and ye clothed me." His 
Journal is profuse in its admiration of some of the Portu- 
guese traders, who did not like the slave-trade — not they, but 
had most enlightened views for the welfare of Africa. But 
opposite some of these eulogistical passages of the Journal 
there were afterward added an expressive series of marks of 
interrogation. 

At a later date he saw reason to doubt the sincerity of 
some of the professions of these gentlemen. Ingenuous and ' 
trustful, he could at first think nothing but good of those 
who had shown him such marked attention. Afterward, the 
inexorable logic of facts proved too strong, even for his 
unsuspecting soul. But the kindness of the Portuguese was 
most genuine, and Livingstone never ceased to be grateful for 
a single kind act. It is important to note that whatever he 
came to think of their policy afterward, he was always ready 
to make this aoknowledgment. 



LINYANTI TO LOANDA. 97 

ducking in the Lombe. 'The weakening effects of 
the fever were most extraordinary. For instance, in 
attempting to take lunar observations I could not 
avoid confusion of time and distance, neither could 
I hold the instrument steady, nor perform a simple 
calculation/' He rallied a little in crossing a moun- 
tain range. As they drew near Loando the hearts of 
his men began to fail, and they hinted their doubts 
to him. ''If you suspect me you can return," he told 
them, "for I am as ignorant of Loando as you ; but 
nothing will happen to you but what happens to me. 
We have stood by one another hitherto, and will do 
so till the last." 

The first view of the sea staggered the Makololo. 
"We were marching along with our father," they 
said, "believing what the ancients had told us was 
true, that the world had no end ; but all at once the 
world said to us, 'I am finished ; there is no more of 
me. 

The fever had produced chronic dysentery, which 
was so depressing that Livingstone entered Loanda 
in deep melancholy, doubting the reception he might 
get from the one English gentleman, Mr. Gabriel, 
the Commissioner for the suppression of the slave- 
trade. He was soon undeceived. Mr. Gabriel re- 
ceived him most kindly, and, seeing the condition he 
was in, gave him up his own bed. "Never shall I 
forget the luxurious pleasure I enjoyed in feeling 
myself again on a good English bed after six months' 



98 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

sleeping on the ground. I was soon asleep ; and Mr. 
Gabriel rejoiced in the soundness of my repose."* 

*In his Journal the warmest benedictions are poured on Mr. 
Gabriel, and blessings everlasting besought for his soul. One 
great disappointment he suffered at Loanda — not a single 
letter was awaiting him. His friends must have thought he 
could never reach it. This want of letters was a very fre- 
quent trial, especially to one who wrote so many, and of such 
length. The cordial friendship of Mr. Gabriel, however, was 
a great solace. He gave him much information, not only on 
all that concerned the slave trade — now more than ever attract- 
ing his attention — but also on the natural history of the dis- 
trict, and he entered con amore into the highest objects of 
his mission. Afterward, in acknowledging to the Directors 
of the London Missionary Society receipt of a letter for Dr. 
Livingstone, intrusted to his care, Mr. Gabriel wrote as fol- 
lows (20th March, 1856) i 

"Dr. Livingstone, after the noble objects he has achieved, 
most assuredly wants no testimony from me. I consult, there- 
fore, the impulse of my own mind alone, when I declare that 
in no respect was my intercourse more gratifying to me than 
in the opportunities afforded to me of observing his earnest, 
active, and unwearied solicitude for the advancement of Chris- 
tianity. Few, perhaps, have had better opportunities than 
myself of estimating the benefit the Christian cause in this 
country ha^ derived from Dr. Livingstone's exertions. It is 
indeed fortunate for that sacred cause, and highly honorable 
to the London Missionary Society, when qualities and disposi- 
tions like his are employed in propagating its blessings among 
men. Irrespective, moreover, of his laudable and single- 
minded conduct as a minister of the Gospel, and his attain- 
ments in making observations which have determined the true 
geography of the interior, the Directors, I am sure, will not 
have failed to perceive how interesting and valuable are all 
the communications they receive from him — as sketches of the 
social condition of the people, and the material, fabrics, and 
produce of these lands. . o ,'* 



CHAPTER VI. 

ACROSS AFRICA — LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 
1854-57. 

The journey to Loanda bed severely tried Living- 
stone's splendid constitution. Though he rallied 
from his first attack in a few days, he was subject to 
severe relapses, the last of which, in August, entirely 
prostrated him. He was reduced to a skeleton, but 
under the care of Mr. Gabriel and the surgeon of the 
"Polyphemus," recovered, and was thankful to find 
that the lassitude which had not left him for months 
had at last disappeared. His preparations for the re- 
turn journey to Linyanti were now pushed on, and 
he started eastward on September 20th. During his 
attacks of fever he had been unable to look after 
his twenty-seven Makololo, whom he had brought 
safely through so many perils, but on his recovery 
was pleased and relieved to find how well they had 
managed to shift for themselves. They had estab- 
lished a brisk trade in firewood, which they collected 
in the wild country and sold at a cheaper rate than 
regular wood-carriers; and had also been employed 
at sixpence a day, for each man, in unloading an 
English vessel which had brought out coal for the 
cruisers on the station. 



100 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

These, the "Pluto" and "Philomel," were now vis- 
ited on the captain's invitation by Livingstone with 
his men. "It is not a canoe at all, it is a town ! and 
what sort of a town that you climb up into with a 
rope?" the Makololo wondered, "These are all my 
countrymen, sent by our Queen to put down those 
who buy and sell black men," Livingstone told them, 
pointing to the sailors. "Truly, they are just like 
you!" the Makololo replied, and were soon for- 
ward amongst the crew, who shared their dinners 
with them, and otherwise petted them in "the kotla," 
as they called the sailors' deck. He himself became 
fast friends with Captains Skene and Bedingfield, 
and a hearty admirer of the British Navy, the officers 
of which he had once looked on as idlers, maintained 
by the hard-working nation, and the men as reckless 
ne'er-do-weels, who gloried in fearing neither God, 
nor man, nor devil, "and made our wooden walls 
floating hells." It was not the first or the last of his 
early prejudices that the great Puritan traveller was 
destined to outlive. 

Seeing his wretched state of health, the captains 
urged him to go home, offering him a passage with 
them to St. Helena. Other friends supported them, 
urging him to take passage on board the "Fore- 
runner" mail packet, by which he was sending home 
his letters, with journals, maps, and observations, 
laboriously drawn up for his employers, the Geo- 
graphical Society, and the Astronomer-Royal. The 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 101 

temptation was great, as he had found no letter from 
home, nor dispatch, at Loanda, but he put it reso- 
lutely aside, knowing that his Makololo could never 
get back without him, and having pledged his word 
to Sekeletu to see them home. The ^'Forerunner" 
was lost off Madeira with all her passengers but one ; 
and he had to stop for several weeks on his eastward 
march at Pungo Adongo, to reproduce his dispatches 
and maps — a feat equal to that of Carlyle in re- 
writing the volume of his "French Revolution" after 
its destruction by J. S. Mill's housemaid. The party 
left Loanda loaded with presents, and with the good 
wishes of the people, high and low. The bishop, who 
was acting governor of the province, gave Living- 
stone orders for supplies by the way while in Angola, 
and introductions to the officials on the east coast if 
he should ever get there ; a horse, uniform, and other 
presents for Sekeletu ; and to his men, suits of cloth- 
ing, in addition to those of striped calico, with red 
caps, in which Mr. Gabriel had already arrayed them. 
The merchants sent specimens of their wares, and 
two donkeys, the only beast of burden which is 
proof against the poisonous bite of the tsetse-fly. 
Thus loaded, they set off, on September 20, 1854, 
making a southern detour along the coast, and 
through the provinces of Massangano, Cassange, 
and of Golungo Alto, before returning to their old 
route beyond the Portuguese border. 

Everywhere Livingstone was struck with the rich- 



102 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

ness of the country and the blighting influence of the 
slave-trade. His progress was tediously slow, as the 
men became footsore on the dry roads, and had fre- 
quent attacks of fever, through which he nursed 
them successfully, bringing home every man of the 
twenty-seven safe to Linyanti. He was not so suc- 
cessful with Sekeletu's horse, which sickened and 
died after detaining them several days. Then came 
his halt at Pungo Adongo, to reproduce his de- 
spatches, and then more attacks of fever, so that he 
did not get clear of Angola till February, 1855.* 
He left the province with very mixed feelings — 

♦Writing to Mrs. Livingstone from Bashinge, 20th March, 
1855, he gives some painful particulars of the slave-trade. 
Referring to a slave-agent with whom he had been, he says : 

"This agent is about the same in appearance as Mabalwe, 
and speaks Portuguese as the Griquas do Dutch. He has two 
chainsful of women going to be sold for the ivory. Formerly 
the trade went from the interior into the Portuguese territory ; 
now it goes the opposite way. This is the effect of the Portu- 
guese love of the trade: they cannot send them abroad on 
account of our ships of war on the coast, yet will sell them to 
the best advantage. These women are decent-looking, as 
much so as the general run of Kuruman ladies, and were 
caught lately in a skirmish the Portuguese had with their 
tribe; and they will be sold for about three tusks each. Each 
has an iron ring round the wrist, and that is attached to the 
chain, which she carries in the hand to prevent it jerking and 
hurting the wrist. How would Nannie like to be thus treated? 
and yet it is only by the goodness of God in appointing our 
lot in different circumstances that we are not similarly de- 
graded, for we have the same evil nature, which is so degraded 
ill therti as to allow of men treating them as beasts. 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 103 

gratitude to the Portuguese, high and low, for their 
great kindness to himself, and sanguine anticipations 
alternating with doubts as to their views with regard 
to the slave-trade; a keener sense than ever of the 
blighting effects of that trade, which had reduced 
the morality of the Angola tribes, especially in the 
matter of theft, far below that of the Bechuana and 
Makololo — ''At Kolobeng, where slavery is un- 
known, we never locked our doors night or day" — 
and a painful sense of the contrast between the condi- 
tion of the people and the brightness and richness of 
the country. 

They found the Chiboque head-men, though much 
more easy to deal with than they had been in 1853 
on their way to the coast, still hostile and exacting 
whenever they saw a chance. On only one occasion, 
however, was there any danger of a collision. Liv- 
ingstone had been prostrated by rheumatic fever and 
obliged to halt for eight days, during which his men 
managed to quarrel with the nearest head-man. 
When they moved on at last, they were followed 
by crowds of Chiboque from all the neighboring 
villages. "They began by knocking down the bur- 
dens of the hindmost of my men, and several shots 
were fired, each party spreading out on both sides 
of the path. I fortunately had a six-barreled revol- 
ver, and with this in my hand staggered along the 
path with two or three of my men and encountered 
th? chiei The sight of si^ barrels gaping into his 



104 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

stomach, with my own ghastly visage looking dag- 
gers at his face, seemed to produce an instant revolu- 
tion in his martial feelings, for he cried out, 'Oh, I 
have only come to speak to you, and wish peace only/ 
Both parties crowded up to their chiefs. I requested 
all to sit down, and then said to the chief, If you 
have come with peaceful intentions, we have no 
other. Go home to your village.' He replied, 'I am 
afraid, lest you should shoot me in the back.' I re- 
joined, 'If I wanted to kill you I could shoot you in 
the face as well.' Mosantu called out to me, 'Don't 
give him your back.' But I said, 'Tell him to ob- 
serve that I am not afraid of him,' and turning, 
mounted my ox and took my departure." 

Slowly they retraced their steps, passing the Ba- 
londa, to whose great chief, Matiamvo, Livingstone 
much wished to pay a visit at his town, Mai, from 
whence he might have descended the Zambesi to the 
^lakololo country. But the extra cost of the devia-' 
lion, and the probability of Matiamvo not allowing 
him to pass out of his country to the southeast, 
hindered him. He found the tribes of the Balonda 
and Luba more uncivilized and better-looking than 
any of the tribes between them and the coast — a 
merry race, spending their time in gossip, funeral 
assemblies, and marriages. "This flow of animal 
spirits must be one reason why they are such an 
indestructible race." 

On June 8th they forded the Lotembwa, here a 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 105 

mile wide and three feet deep, and regained their 
old path, crossing the great plain which they had 
seen under water on their outward march, and on 
which he now suffered from another severe attack 
of fever. But no physical depression could weaken 
his zeal or power of observation, and it was now 
that the solution of the problem of the river-system 
of Africa broke upon him. '1 ,had learnt, partly 
from my own observation, partly from information 
derived from others, that the rivers of this part of 
Africa took their rise in the same elevated region, 
and that all united in two main drains, the one flow- 
ing to the north by the Congo, the other to the south 
by the Zambesi. I was now standing on the central 
ridge that divided these two systems, and was sur- 
prised to find how slight its elevation was. Instead 
of the lofty snow-clad mountains we might have 
expected, we found frequently flat plains not more 
than 4,000 feet above sea level, and 1,000 feet 
lower than the western ridge we had already 
passed." 

They were now getting amongst friends. At 
Katema's town, besides abundance of other food, 
they were presented with one of his white cows, 
which it took them two days to catch, and the chiefs 
heart was made glad by a cloak of red baize orna- 
mented with gold tinsel, a quarter of a pound of 
powder, and other articles. They found their pon- 
toon where they had left it, carefully preserved, but 



106 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

useless, the mice having eaten holes in it. They 
passed through Shinte's country, distributing now 
the cuttings and seeds they had brought from An- 
gola, custard apples, fig, coffee, and palm-oil trees, 
onions, garlic, and pepper. At Manenko's they went 
through a rite, consisting of libations of beer, in 
which drops of the blood of hosts and guests had 
been infused, after which they were reckoned as 
blood-relations. 

At Libonta, the first Makololo town, they were 
received with extravagant joy, as men risen from the 
dead. Pitsane gave an account of their adventures 
in a speech of an hour, dwelling on the kindness of 
Mr. Gabriel and others to them, and the fact that 
Livingstone had opened a route for them to the 
coast, and had conciliated all the chiefs on the road. 
Next day was observed, by Livingstone's desire, as a 
day of thanksgiving. *'My men decked themselves 
in their best, and I found that although their goods 
were finished, they had managed to save suits of 
white, which with their red caps gave them rather a 
dashing appearance. They tried to walk like the 
soldiers they had seen at Loanda, and called them- 
selves my 'braves' (batlabani). During the service 
they all sat with their guns over their shoulders, to 
the unbounded admiration of the women and chil- 
dren." The abundance of supplies poured in, drew 
from them apologies that they had nothing to give 
in return. "It does not matter; you have opened a 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 107 

path for us, and we shall have sleep," was the grace- 
ful reply. 

Their progress down the Barotse Valley was one 
long triumph, and they reached Linyanti on Septem- 
ber II, 1855, having taken a year all but nine days 
on their return journey. Livingstone spent eight 
weeks at Linyanti with Sekeletu, starting for the east 
coast on November 3, 1855. 

The intervening time was fully occupied in writ- 
ing letters and despatches, doctoring and preaching ; 
and, in the latter part, in preparing for his eastward 
journey. He was again disappointed in finding no 
letters from home, and only one, a year old, from 
Kuruman. This had been brought, with some pack- 
ages of eatables, from Mrs. Moffat to the southern 
bank of the Zambesi by a party of Matabele, the ene- 
mies of the Makololo, who called across the river 
that they were from Moffat for "Nake." When the 
Makololo refused to believe them they left the pack- 
ages, saying, ''Here are the goods; we place them 
before you; if they perish, the guilt will be yours.'' 
The Makololo cautiously brought them to an island 
in mid-stream, building a hut over them, in which 
Livingstone found them in perfect safety.* Besides 

*A letter from Mrs. Moffat accompanied the box. It is 
amusing to read her motherly explanations about the white 
shirts, and the blue waistcoat, the woolen socks, lemon juice, 
quince jam, and tea and coffee, some of which had come all 
the way from Hamilton; but there are passages in that little 
note that make one's heart go with rapid beat : 



108 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

providing him with an escort of one hundred and 
twenty men, ten slaughter cattle, three of his best 
riding oxen, and a large store of provisions, Sekeletu 
with his chief men accompanied him for some dis-' 
tance. Despite some relapses during Livingstone's 
absence toward the slave-trade, and one or two raids 
against his neighbors, Sekeletu succeeded in winning 

"My Dear Son Livingstone — Your present position is 
almost too much for my weak nerves to suffer me to contem- 
plate. Hitherto I have kept up my spirits, and been enabled 
to believe that our great Master may yet bring you out in 
safety, for though His ways are often inscrutable, I should 
have clung to the many precious promises made in His word 
as to temporal preservation, such as the 91st and 121st 
Psalms — but have been taught that we may not presume con- 
fidently to expect them to be fulfilled, and that every petition, 
however fervent, must be with devout submission to His will. 
My poor sister-in-law clung tenaciously to the 91st Psalm, 
and firmly believed that her dear husband would thus be pre- 
served, and never indulged the idea that they should never 
meet on earth. But I apprehend submission was wanting. 
'If it be Thy will,' I fancy she could not say — and, therefore, 
she was utterly confounded when the news came.* She had 
exercised strong faith, and was disappointed. Dear Living- 
stone, I have always endeavored to keep this in mind with 
regard to you. Since George [Fleming] came out it seemed 
almost hope against hope. Your having got so thoroughly 
feverized chills my expectations ; still prayer, unceasing prayer, 
is made for you. When I think of you my heart will go up- 
ward. 'Keep him as the apple of Thine eye,' 'Hold him in the 
hollow of Thy hand,' are the ejaculations of my heart." 

*Rev. John Smith, missionary at Madras, had gone to Viza- 
gapatam to the .ordination of two native pastors, and when 
returning in a small vessel, a storm arose, when he and all on 
board perished. 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 109 

his warm regard. The chief had not only made his 
journeys possible, furnishing him with supplies 
which, even if he could have drawn for it, his meagre 
salary of f loo a year could not have procured, but 
showed the strongest personal devotion to him; in- 
sisting, for instance, on Livingstone taking his blan- 
ket for a bed when they were accidentally separated 
from their baggage in a tremendous tropical storm. 
"I was .much affected," Livingstone writes, ''by this 
act of kindness. If such men must perish by the ad- 
vance of civilization, as some races of animals do 
before others, it is a pity. God grant that ere this 
time come they may receive the Gospel — a solace for 
the soul in death."* 

*In writing from Linyanti to his wife, Livingstone makes 
the best he can of his long detention. She seems to have 
put the matter playfully, wondering what the "source of 
attraction" had been. He says : 

"Don't know what apology to make you for a delay I could 
not shorten. But as you are a mercifully kind-hearted dame, 
I expect you will write out an apology in proper form, and 
I shall read it before you with as long a face as I can exhibit. 
Disease was the chief obstacle. The repair of the wagon 
was the 'source of attraction' in Cape Town, and the settle- 
ment of a case of libel another 'source of attraction.' They 
tried to engulf me in a law-suit for simply asking the post- 
master why some letters were charged double. They were so 
marked in my account. I had to pay £13 to quash it. They 
longed to hook me in, from mere hatred to London mission- 
aries. I did not remain an. hour after I could move. But I 
do not wonder at your anxiety for my speedy return. I am 
sorry you have been disappointed, but you know no mortal 
can control disease. The Makololo are wonderfully well 



110 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

• On November 13th Sekeletu left them at Sesheke 
on the banks of the Zambesi, along which they pro- 
ceeded until they came in sight of five columns of 
vapor — ''smoke that sounds," or ''Mosi-oa-tunya," 
as the Makololo called them — rising from the falls 
of which he and Oswell had heard years before. 
"Being persuaded that Mr. Oswell and myself were 
the very first Europeans who ever saw the Zambesi 
in the heart of Africa, I decided to use the same 
liberty as the Makololo had done, and named them 
the Falls of Victoria, the only English name I have 
affixed to any part of the country. . . . The 
whole scene is extremely beautiful; the banks and 
islands dotted over the river are adorned with sylvan 
vegetation of every variety of color and form." 
Changing his canoe for a lighter one manned by men 
who knew the rapids well, he descended them till he 
reached an island in mid-river, on the very edge of 
the lip over which the water rolls. ''Erom the end 
of the island where we first landed, though within 
a few yards of the falls, no one could see where the 
vast body of water went ; it seemed to lose itself in a 
transverse fissure only 80 feet wide. Creeping with 
awe to the end of the island, I peered down into a 
large rent which had been made from bank to bank 

pleased with the path we have already made, and if I am 
successful in going down to Quilimane, that will be still better. 
I have written you by every opportunity, and am very sorry 
your letters have been miscarried." 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. HI 

of the broad Zambesi, and saw that a stream i,8oo 
yards broad leaped down 320 feet, and then became 
suddenly compressed into a space of 15 or 20 yards. 
. The falls are simply caused by a crack in a hard 
^ basaltic rock from the right to the left bank, and then 
prolonged from the left bank away through 30 or 40 
miles of hills." After w^ondering and delighted sur- 
vey, he planted the peach and apricot stones and 
coffee seed he had brought from Angola, feeling sure 
that here they would never want water. *'I bar- 
gained for a hedge with one of the Makololo, and if 
he is faithful, I have great hopes of Mosi-oa-tunya's 
abilities as a nurseryman. My only fear is the hippo- 
potami, whose footprints I saw on the island. When 
the garden was prepared I cut my initials on a tree, 
and the date 1855, the only instance in which I in- 
dulged in this piece of vanity." 

Reasoning, as was his wont, over the geological 
and geographical problems which the falls forced 
upon him, he came to the conclusion that before the 
river broke through this rent the whole country be- 
, tween iy° and 21° south latitude was one vast fresh- 
' water lake, a conclusion which he found on his return 
home that Sir Roderick Murchison had already pro- 
pounded to the Geographical Society.* 

*A discovery as to the structure of the country, long be- 
lieved in by him, but now fully verified, was of much more 
practical importance. It had been ascertained by him that 
skirting the central hollow there were two longitudinal ridges 



112 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

They now quitted the Zambesi and moved north- 
east, the camp getting into good marching-order. 
There were groups from several tribes subject to the 
Makololo, who took orders from their own head- 
man and messed by themselves. *'Each party knew 
its own spot in the encampment, and each took it in 
turn to pull grass to make my bed, so that I lay 
luxuriously." And so they plodded on for the point 
where they were again to come on the Zambesi, 
below the long series of rapids. The western part 
of this region had once been densely peopled, and 

extremely favorable for settlements, both for missions and 
merchandise. We shall hear much of this soon. 

Slowly but steadily the eastward tramp is continued, often 
over ground which was far from favorable for walking exer- 
cise. "Pedestrianism," said Livingstone, "may be all very 
well for those whose obesity requires much exercise; but for 
one who was becoming as thin as a lath through the constant 
perspiration caused by marching day after day in the hot 
sun, the only good I saw in it was that it gave an honest sort 
of a man a vivid idea of the tread-mill." 

When Livingstone came to England, and was writing 
books, his tendency was rather to get stout than thin; and 
the disgust with which he spoke then of the "beastly fat" 
seemed to show that if for nothing else than to get rid of it 
he would have been glad to be on the tread-mill again. In one 
of his letters to Mr. Maclear he thus speaks of a part of this 
journey: "It was not likely that I should know our course 
well, for the country there is covered with shingle and gravel, 
bushes, trees, and grass, and we were without path. Skulking 
out of the way of villages where we were expected to pay 
after the purse was empty, it was excessively hot and steamy ; 
the eyes had to be always fixed on the ground to avoid being 
tripped." 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 113 

they passed again and again the remains of "a large 
town which must have been inhabited for a long 
period, for the millstones of gneiss, trap, and quartz 
were worn down 2^ inches perpendicular. The 
forest was now fast resuming its undisputed reign. 

The tribes amongst which they came on nearing 
the Zambesi again, proved as hostile as the Chi- 
boque ; indeed, at the confluence of the Loangwa and 
Zambesi he encountered the most serious danger 
from natives he had yet met with. As the neighbor- 
ing tribes gathered round to hinder his crossing, 
and he was waiting for canoes, he wrote in his Jour- 
nal of January 14th: 'Thank God for His great 
mercies thus far. How soon I may be called before 
Him, my righteous Judge, I know not. . . . On 
Thy word alone I lean. The cause is Thine. See, 
O Lord, how the heathen rise up against me as they 
did against Thy Son. ... It seems a pity that 
the facts about the two healthy longitudinal regions 
should not be known in Christendom. Thy will be 
done." And late on the same evening : "Felt much 
turmoil of spirit in view of having all my plans for 
the welfare of this great region and teeming popu- 
lation knocked on the head by savages to-morrow. 
But Jesus came and said, 'All power is given unto me 
in heaven and in earth. Go ye therefore, and teach 
all nations. . . . And, lo, I am with you alway, 
even unto the end of the world.' It is the word of a 
gentleman of the most sacred and strictest honor^ and 



114 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

there is an end on't. I will not cross furtively by 
night as I intended. It would appear as flight, and 
should such a man as I flee? Nay, verily, I shall 
take observations for longitude and latitude to-night, 
though they may be the last. I feel quite calm now, 
thank God." So he took his observations in his 
small camp, surrounded by crowds of armed natives, 
and early next morning began to send off his people, 
cattle, and baggage, in the one canoe he had secured, 
to an island in mid-stream, here a mile in breadth. 
He remained to occupy the post of honor, being the 
last man to enter the canoe ; keeping the surrounding 
savages amused with his watch, burning-glass, etc., 
until he could step in himself and push off, thanking 
them and wishing them peace. By night he and his 
whole party were safely encamped on the left bank. 
Here Livingstone came upon the remains of a 
church and a broken bell with "I.H.S." and a cross, 
showing that at one time the Portuguese settlements 
had extended to this point, and on the 17th they met 
a man in jacket and hat, but quite black, who had 
come up from Tette, the northernmost post on the 
river. He told them that the Portuguese and natives 
on this bank had been at war for the last two years. 
He advised them to cross to the south bank, but they 
could not get canoes. They were now in Mpende's 
country, the most powerful chief of the district, and 
at first were threatened with attack. Numbers of 
Mpende's fighting men gathered roiind at half a 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. II5 

mile distance on the 23d. "I ordered an ox to be 
slaughtered as a means of inspiring courage, and 
have no doubt we should have been victorious. . . 
The roasting of meat went on fast and furious, and 
my young men said, 'You have seen us with ele- 
phants, but you don't know what we can do with 
men.' " He now sent a leg of the ox to Mpende by 
men who came near as spies, and "presently two old 
men came from Mpende to inquire who I was. I re- 
plied, 'I am a Lekoa' (an Englishman). They said, 
'We don't know that tribe. We supposed you are a 
Mouzunga (Portuguese), the tribe we are fighting 
with.' " He then showed them his skin, and they 
said, 'No, we never saw skin so w^hite as that. You 
must be one of the tribe that loves the black men.' 
I of course gladly responded in the affirmative." So 
the men returned to Mpende, who in council resolved 
to allow them to pass. "When we knew the favor- 
able decision, I sent Sekwebu to purchase a canoe for 
one of my men who had become very ill, upon which 
Mpende remarked, 'This white man is truly one of 
our friends. See how he lets me know his afflic- 
tions.' " From this time he did all he could to help 
them, sending orders to the people of a large island 
lower down to ferry them across. This was done on 
the 29th, at a spot wdiere the Zambesi was twelve 
hundred yards wide, and flowing at 3f miles an 
hour. "I was very thankful to find myself on the 
§outh bank, and having nothing else, I sent back on^ 



116 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

of my two spoons and a shirt as a thank-offering to 
^vlpende." 

He was now amongst unwarlike tribes who looked 
on his men as desperadoes, the hke of whom they had 
never seen before. *'I see you are travelling with 
people who don't know how to pray," was the re- 
mark of a Banyai hunter on seeing their headlong 
attack on an elephant and wild dance around the 
body of the prostrate beast; "I therefore offered the 
only thing I had on their behalf" (some snuff which 
he had poured out as an offering to the Baremo) 
*'and the elephant soon fell." Others offered loud 
prayers for their success, thereby eliciting Living- 
stone's admiration at their devout belief in unseen 
beings. *'My own people, who are rather a degraded 
lot, remarked to me as I came up, 'God gave it to us. 
He said to the old beast, go up there, men are come 
who will kill and eat you.' " 

His progress now was slow but peaceful, giving 
him leisure to dwell on and enjoy the teeming life of 
the tropical forests, the songs of birds — not so har- 
monious, but as full in volume as in England, stilled 
during the hot dry hours, but with the first shower 
bursting into merry lays and loving courtship — the 
hum of insects in the quietest parts of the forest, 
"whisking about in the clear sunshine among the 
green glancing leaves ; but there are invisible myri- 
ads, all brimful of enjoyment, working with never- 
tiring mandibles on leave? and stalks, and beneath 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 117 

the soil. Indeed, the universality of organic life 
seems like a mantle of happy existence encircling the 
world, and betokening the presence of our benignant 
Father's smile on the works of His hands." So 
muses the great traveller, in a different frame of 
mind to the dominant school of our modern philoso- 
phers.* 

Passing out of the forest country and over a rough 
stony country with no path, "on the evening of 2d 

*In the early part of his life he deemed it his joy and his 
honor to aim at the conversion of individual souls, and 
earnestly did he labor and pray for that, although his visible 
success was but small. But as he gets better acquainted with 
Africa, and reaches a more commanding point of view, he sees 
the necessity for other work. The continent must be sur- 
veyed, healthy localities for mission-stations must be found, 
the temptations to a cursed traffic in human flesh must be 
removed, the products of the country must be turned to 
account ; its whole social economy must be changed. The 
accomplishment of such objects, even in a limited degree, 
would be an immense service to the missionary; it would be 
such a preparing of his way that a hundred years hence the 
spiritual results would be far greater than if all the effort now 
were concentrated on single souls. To many persons it ap- 
peared as if dealing with individual souls were the only 
proper work of a missionary, and as if one who had been 
doing such work would be lowering himself if he accepted 
any other. Livingstone never stopped to reason as to which 
w^as the higher or the more desirable work ; he felt that 
Providence was calling him to be less of a missionary journey- 
man and more of a missionary statesman; but the great end 
was ever the same — 

"the end of the geographical feat is only the 
beginning of the enterprise.'' 



118 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

March I halted about 8 miles from Tette, and feeling 
too fatigued to proceed, sent forward to the Com- 
mandant the letters with which I had been favored 
by the Bishop of Angola and others. About 2 a.m. 
on the 3d we were roused by two officers and a com- 
pany of soldiers, who had been sent with the mate- 
rials for a civilized breakfast, and a 'masheela' 
(litter) to bring me to Tette. My companions called 
me in alarm, thinking we had been captured by 
armed men. When I understood their errand, and 
had partaken of a good breakfast, all my fatigue 
vanished, though I had just before been too tired to 
sleep. It was the most refreshing breakfast I ever 
partook of, and I walked the last 8 miles without the 
least feeling of weariness, though the path was so 
rough that one of the officers remarked to me, This 
is enough to tear a man's life out of him.' "* 

♦Livingstone reached the Portuguese settlement of Tette 
on the 3d of March, 1856, and the "civiHzed breakfast" which 
the commandant, Major Sicard, sent forward to him, on his 
way, was a luxury like Mr. Gabriel's bed at Loanda, and made 
him walk the last eight miles without the least sensation of 
fatigue, although the road was so rough that, as a Portuguese 
soldier remarked, it was like "to tear a man's life out of 
him." At Loanda he had heard of the battle of the Alma; 
after being in Tette a short time he heard of the fall of Sebas- 
topol and the end of the Crimean War. He remained in 
Tette till the 23d April, detained by an attack of fever, receiv- 
ing extraordinary kindness from the Governor, and, among 
other tokens of affection, a gold chain for his daughter Agnes, 
the work of an inhabitant of the town. These gifts were duly 
acknowledged. It was at this place that Dr. Livingstone left 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 119 

He stayed a month with Major Sicard, the Com- 
mandant, whose kindness to the whole party he 
gratefully acknowledged. From him he heard of the 
three years' war, during which Tette had been 
sacked. "Had I attempted to reach this coast in- 
stead of Loanda in 1853 I should probably have been 
cut off. My present approach was just at the conclu- 
sion of peace, and when the Portuguese authorities 
were informed that I was expected to come this way, 
they declared that no European could possibly pass 
through the tribes. Some natives at last came down 
the river, and in allusion to the sextant and artificial 
horizon, said 'that the son of God had come, who 
was able to take down the sun from heaven and place 
it under his arm.' Major Sicard then felt sure this 
was the man he expected." Here Livingstone left all 
his Makololo but sixteen of the best canoe men, on 
land which the Commandant gave them to raise food 
upon, allowing them also to hunt and trade. They 
were well content with their prospects, though many 
more would have preferred to go on with him, and 
he was pleased to see that sixty or seventy had 
started to hunt, while the rest had established a brisk 

his Makololo followers, with instructions to wait for him till 
he should return from England. Well entitled though he 
was to a long rest, he deliberately gave up the possibility of 
it, by engaging to return for his black companions. 

In the case of Dr. Livingstone, rest meant merely change 
of employment, and while resting and recovering from fever, 
he wrote a large budget of long and interesting letters. 



120 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

trade in firewood, before he started in April for 
Senna in Major Sicard's own boat. 

Senna he found in even worse pHght than Tette, 
the half-caste inhabitants paying fines to the Lan- 
deens, who treated the Portuguese outside the fort 
as a conquered tribe. He left Senna on May nth, 
the whole population accompanying him to the boats. 
They reached Ouilemane on May 20th, and from 
thence he sent back all his men but Sekwebu to Tette, 
where there was food, there to await his return. He 
deposited Sekeletu's tusks with Colonel Nunes, the 
Commandant, who promised in the event of his death 
to sell them and hand the proceeds to his men. 'T 
explained this to the men, and they replied, *Nay, 
father, you will return to take us back to Sekeletu.' 
They promised to wait till I came back, and on my 
part I assured them that nothing but death would 
prevent my return."* 

*In looking forward to the work to which Providence 
seemed to be calling him, a communication received at Quili- 
mane disturbed him not a little. It was from the London 
Missionary Society. It informed him that the Directors were 
restricted in their power of aiding plans connected only 
remotely with the spread of the gospel, and that even though 
certain obstacles (from tsetse, etc.) should prove surmount- 
able, "the financial circumstances of the Society are not such 
as to afford any ground of hope that it would be in a position 
within any definite period to undertake untried any remote 
and difficult fields of labor." Dr. Livingstone very naturally 
understood this as a declinature of his proposals. Writing 
on the subject to Rev. William Thompson, the Society's Si^ent 
at Cape Town, he said: 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 121 

After six weeks H.M. brig ''Frolic" arrived, with 
an offer from the Admiral at the Cape of a passage 
to the Mauritius, which he gladly accepted. He and 
Sekwebu went on board on July 12th, through the 
breakers which swept over the pinnace. *' 'Is this the 
way you go?' Sekwebu asked. I smiled and said, 
'Don't you see it is?' and tried to encourage him." 
They were hoisted on board in a chair, and warmly 
welcomed by Captain Peyton and his crew. Sekwebu 
began to pick up English, and was becoming a favor- 
ite with the sailors on the voyage to the Mauritius, 
which they reached on August 12th, but he seemed 
bewildered, and often said, ''What a strange country 
this is! All water together." 

*'When we reached the Mauritius a steamer cam.e 

"I had imagined in my simplicity that both my preaching, 
conversation, and travel were as nearly connected with the 
spread of the gospel as the Boers would allow them to be. A 
plan of opening up a path from either the East or West Coast 
for the teeming population of the interior was submitted to 
the judgment of the Directors, and received their formal 
approbation. 

''I have been seven times in peril of my life from savage 
men while laboriously and without swerving pursuing that , 
plan, and never doubting that I was in the path of duty. 

"Indeed, so clearly did I perceive that I v.as performing 
good service to the cause of Christ, that I wrote to my 
brother that I would perish rather than fail in my enterprise. 
I shall not boast of what I have done, but the wonderful 
mercy I have received will constrain me to follow out the 
work in spite of the veto of the Board. 

"If it is according to the will of God, means will be pro- 
vided from other quarters." 



122 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

out to tow us into the harbor. The constant strain 
on his untutored mind seemed now to reach a cHmax, 
for during the night he became insane. I thought at 
I first he was drunk. He had descended into a boat, 
and when I attempted to go down and bring him up 
he ran to the stern and said, 'No! no! it is enough 
that I die alone. You must not die; if you come I 
shall throw myself into the water.' Perceiving that 
his mind was affected, I said, 'Now, Sekwebu, we are 
going to Ma Robert.' This struck a chord in his 
bosom, and he said, 'Oh, yes! Where is she, and 
where is Robert?' and became more composed. In 
the evening, however, a fresh fit occurred. He tried 
to spear one of the crew, and then jumped over- 
board, and though he could swim well, pulled himself 
down, hand under hand, by the chain cable. We 
never found the body of poor Sekwebu." 

After a month's stay at the Mauritius with Gen- 
eral Hay, the Governor, during which he got rid of 
an enlarged spleen, the result of African fever, he 
took passage home in the P, and O. steamer "Can- 
dia," and arrived on December 12th, to find himself 
the most famous man for the time in the British 
Isles. 

Tidings of a great sorrow had reached him on the 
way. At Cairo he heard of the death of his father. 
He had been ill a fortnight, and died full of faith 
and peace. "You wished so much to see David," 
said his daughter to him as his life was ebbing away. 



LOANDA TO QUILEMANE. 123 

"Ay, very much, very much ; but the will of the Lord 
be done." Then after a pause he said, "But I think 
I'll know whatever is worth knowing about him. 
When you see him, tell him I think so." David had 
not less eagerly desired to sit once more at the fire- 
side and tell his father of all that had befallen him on 
the way. On both sides the desire had to be classed 
among hopes unfulfilled. But on both sides there 
was a vivid impression that the joy so narrowly 
missed on earth would be found in a purer form in 
the next stage of being. 



CHAPTER VII. 

HOME. 
1857-59- 

In consequence of an accident to the P. and O. 
steamer in the Bay of Tunis, the passengers were 
landed at Marseilles, and sent home by Paris and 
Dover. On landing, Livingstone hastened to South- 
ampton, where his wife was waiting. "Man must 
work, but woman must weep." What the great ex- 
plorer's wife had borne in those five years may be 
gathered from the few lines of a little poem of wel- 
come, which has somehow got into print, and so may 
be used here : 

"You'll never leave me, darling — there's a promise in your eye ; 
I may tend you while I'm living, you will watch me when 

I die. 
How did I live without you through those long, long years 

of woe? 
It seems as tho' 'twould kill me to be parted from you now. 
And if death but kindly lead me to the blessed home on high, 
What a hundred thousand welcomes will await you in the 

sky !" 

They reached London on December 9th, where the 
"well-done" of a proud and grateful nation broke on 
the simple pious missionary with bewildering force 

124 



HOME, 125 

and unanimity. On the 15th, at a special meeting of 
welcome at the Royal Geographical Societ}^ Sir 
Roderick Murchison, in presenting the Patron's 
Gold Medal, while dwelling on the thousands of 
miles of the dark and hitherto unexplored continent 
now accurately laid down in charts, insisted above 
all on the Doctor's heroic faithfulness to his native 
followers, drawing from him the protest that Oswell, 
Steele, or Vardon (all present) could have done all 
that he had done. On the i6th the London ^lission- 
ary Society, with Lord Shaftesbury in the chair, wel- 
comed him at a special meeting. A gathering was 
held at the Mansion-House to consider the best form 
of a testimonial, and other public receptions threat- 
ened him from all sides.* 

*Next day, i6th December, Dr. Livingstone had his recep- 
tion from the London Missionary Society in Freemasons' 
Hall. Lord Shaftesbury was in the chair : 

"What better thing can we do," asked the noble Earl, "than 
to welcome such a man to the shores of our country? What 
better than to receive him with thanksgiving and rejoicings 
that he is spared to refresh us with his presence, and give 
his strength to future exertions? What season more appro- 
priate than this, when at every hearth, and in every congre- 
gation of worshippers, the name of Christ will be honored with 
more than ordinary devotion, to receive a man whose life and 
labors have been in humble, hearty, and willing obedience to 
the angels' song, 'Glory to God in the highest, on earth peace, 
good-will toward men'?" 

Lord Shaftesbury's words at the close of this meeting, in 
honor of Mrs. Livingstone, deserve to be perpetuated : 
"That lady," he said, "was born with one distinguished 



126 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

From these he broke away in January, to visit his 
mother and family at Hamilton. His father had 
died while he was on his way home. As he looked at 
the empty chair the strong man wept. "We bless 
xthee, O Lord, for our parents ; we give thee thanks 
for the dead who has died in the Lord," he prayed 
that night in conducting their family worship.* 

On his return to London, at the end of January, 
he undertook, somewhat unwillingly, to write an ac- 
count of his travels, urged thereto by Sir R. Murchi- 

name, which she had changed for another. She was born a 
Moffat, and she became a Livingstone. She cheered the early- 
part of our friend's career by her spirit, her counsel, and her 
society. Afterward, when she reached this country, she 
passed many years with her children in solitude and anxiety, 
suffering the greatest fears for the welfare of her husband, 
and yet enduring all with patience and resignation, and even 
joy, because she had surrendered her best feelings, and sacri- 
ficed her own private interests, to the advancement of civiliza- 
tion and the great interests of Christianity." 

*At first Livingstone thought that his stay in England 
could be only for three or four months, as he was eager to be 
at Quilim.ane before the unhealthy season set in, and thus 
''fulfill his promise to return to his Makololo at Tette. But 
on receiving an assurance from the Portuguese Government 
^which, however, was never fulfilled by them) that his men 
would be looked after, he made up his mind for a somewhat 
longer stay. But it could not be called rest. As soon as he 
could settle down he had to set to work with a book. So 
long before as May, 1856, Sir Roderick Murchison had writ- 
tea to him that "Mr. John Murray, the great publisher, is most 
anxious to induce you to put together all your data, and to 
make a good book," adding his own strong advice to comply 
with the request. 



HOME. 137 

son and Mr. John Murray. "I would sooner have 
crossed Africa again," he murmured, but buckled to 
his task. 

''I begin to-morrow to write my book, and as I 
have no men waiting for me at Tette, whom I 
promised to rejoin in April next, you will see I shall 
have enough to do to get through my work here. . . 
Here they laud me till I shut my eyes for only trying 
to do my duty. They ought to vote thanks to the 
Boers, who set me free to discover this fine new coun- 
try. They were determined to shut the country and 
I to open it. ... I got the gold medal as you 
predicted, and the freedom of the town of Hamilton, 
which ensures me protection from the payment of 
fees if put in prison." So he wrote to Sir T. Mac- 
lear on January 21st, and set to work on his book, 
but not even his energy could finish this unaccus- 
tomed work in the time he had given himself. He 
took lodgings at Chelsea, and gave himself to his 
work, and to the enjoym.ent of family life once more, 
the only drawback being the well-meant efforts of 
gentle and simple to make a lion of him.* It was not 

*In writing his book, he sometimes worked in the house of 
a friend, but generally in a London or suburban lodging, often 
with his children about him, and all their noise ; for, as in 
the Blantyre mill, he could abstract his attention from sounds 
of whatever kind, and go on calmly with his work. Busy 
though he was, this must have been one of the happiest times 
in his life. Some of his children still remember his walks and 
romps with them in the Barnet woods, near which they lived 



128 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

till the later summer that he was again compara- 
tively free, and then the round of meetings and 
speeches began again. The freedom of the City 
of London was presented to him in a gold box. In 
August he was the guest of the British Association 
at their Dublin meeting. In September the Corpora- 
tion of Glasgow, the University, and other public 
bodies entertained him, and he was presented with 
another gold box with the freedom of the city, and 
with £2,000 by the citizens as ^a testimonial. At 
Blantyre, his native village, the Literary Institution 
gave a reception, and managed to get out of him the 
story of his encounter with the lion. Edinburgh 
followed, and got three speeches out of him; then 
Leeds, Liverpool, and Birmingham; after which he 
wrote to Sir R. Murchison, "Farewell to public 
spouting forever. I am dead tired of it." Oxford 
and Cambridge, however, were still to be done in 
November and December, whence he retired with 
Doctor's degrees. The latter University charmed 
him particularly, as he found himself in the con- 
genial society of Sedgwick, Selwyn, and Whewell, 
and he gave a memorable address in the Senate- 
House, which bore remarkable fruit. It was an 
urgent appeal for volunteers in missionary work. "It 

part of the time — how he would suddenly plunge into the 
ferny thicket, and set them looking for him, as people looked 
for him afterward when he disappeared in Africa, coming out 
all at once at some unexpected f^orner of the thicket. 



HOME. 129 

is deplorable to think that one of the noblest of our 
missionary bodies, the Church Missionary Society, 
is compelled to send to Germany for missionaries. 
. . . The sort of men who are wanted for mis- 
sionaries are such as I see before me. ... I beg 
to direct your attention to Africa. I know that in 
a few years I shall be cut off in that country, which is 
now open. Do not let it be shut again. I go back to 
Africa to try to open a path for commerce and Chris- 
tianity; do you carry out the work which I have 
begun. I leave it with you."* 

The publication of his book made him at once a 
rich man, having regard to his needs and habits. 
This, and the appointment of Consul for the east 
coast of Africa which was offered him by Lord Pal- 
merston, determined him, after much deliberation, 
to resign his connection with the London Alissionary 
Society. They parted on the most friendly terms, 

*It has sometimes been a complaint that so much of the 
book is occupied with matters of science, geographical in- 
quiries, descriptions of plants and animals, accounts of rivers 
and mountains, and so little with what directly concerns the 
work of the missionary. In reply to this, it may be stated, in 
the first place, that if the information given and the views 
expressed on missionary topics were all put together, they 
would constitute no insignificant contribution to missionary 
literature. But there was another consideration. Livingstone 
regarded himself as but a pioneer in missionary enterprise. 
During sixteen years he had done much to bring the knowl- 
edge of Christ to tribes that had never heard of Him — prob- 
ablv no missionary in Africa had ever preached to so many 
blacks. 



130 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

though his action was misunderstood and sharply 
criticised in the (so-called) religious press. And 
now his preparations for returning began in earnest. 
His commission was signed in February, and Lord 
Clarendon sent him to the Admiralty to make his ar- 
rangements, adding, ''J^st come here and tell me 
what you want, and I will give it to you." He also 
furnished him with an official letter to Sekeletu, 
thanking him, in the Queen's name, for his kindness 
to her servant, and hoping that he would help to keep 
"God's highway'' — the river Zambesi — free to all 
people, and to suppress the slave-trade, which the 
British, as a Christian and commercial people, hated. 
He found the Admiralty ready to send out a large 
and expensive expedition, but cut it down to strictly 
necessary limits.* 

* [Honors were showered upon Livingstone wherever he 
went: at Dublin, Glasgow (from Corporation, University, 
Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons, etc.), Manchester, Ham- 
ilton, Blantyre, Edinburgh, and Cambridge. A brief account 
of only one of these is here inserted.] 

To the United Presbyterians of Glasgow he spoke of mis- 
sion work in Africa. At one time he had been somewhat 
disappointed with the Bechuana Christians, and thought the 
results of the mission had been exaggerated, but when he 
went into the interior and saw heathenism in all its unmiti- 
gated ferocity, he changed his opinion, and had a higher opin- 
ion than ever of what the mission had done. Such gatherings 
as the present were very encouraging; but in Africa mission 
work was hard work without excitement; and they had just 
to resolve to do their duty without expecting to receive grat- 
itude from those whom they labored to serve. When grati- 



HOME. 131 

As the day of his departure drew near, his friends 
in the Royal and the Geographical Societies pressed 
for a last gathering to bid him God-speed, and it was 
arranged to entertain him at a public dinner on Feb- 
ruary 13th. On the morning of that day he had an 
interview with the Queen, who assured him of her 
good wishes ; and in the evening a company of three 
hundred and fifty, including the most eminent men 
in England, gathered at the Freemasons' Tavern 
under the presidency of Sir R. Murchison, who dwelt 
again on his return from Loanda with his men, 
'leaving for himself in that country a glorious name, 

tude came, they were thankful to have it; but when it did not 
come they must go on doing their duty, as unto the Lord. 

His reply to the cotton-spinners is interesting as showing 
how fresh his sympathy still was with the sons of toil, and 
what respect he had for their position. He congratulated 
himself on the Spartan training he had got at the Blantyre 
mill, which had really been the foundation of all the work 
he had done. Poverty and hard work were often looked down 
on — he did not know why — for wickedness v/as the only thing 
that ought to be a reproach to any man. Those that looked 
down on cotton-spinners with contempt were men who, had 
they been cotton-spinners at the beginning, would have been 
cotton-spinners to the end. The life of toil was what belonged 
to the great majority of the race, and to be poor was no re- 
proach. The Saviour occupied the humble position that they 
had been born in, and he looked back on his own past life 
as having been spent in the same position in which the 
Saviour lived. 

''My great object," he said, "was to be like Him — to imi- 
tate Him~artaf"as He could be imitated. W e have noT the 
pmver" oT Voyking"mrracles, but we can do~ a little^m the way 
"oF Eeairng~the sick, and I sought a medical education in order 



132 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

and proving to the people of Africa what an English 
Christian is," and on the nobleness of the man who, 
''after eighteen months of laudation from all classes 
of his countrymen, and after receiving all the honors 
our Universities and cities could shower on him, is 
still the same honest true-hearted David Livingstone 
^as when he issued from the wilds of Africa." The 
Duke of Argyll and Bishop Wilberforce followed, 
and then Professor Owen, with cordial testimony to 
the accuracy of his geological observations and the 
happiness of his conjectures, tempered only by regret 
that he should have destro3^ed the moral character of 
the lion. Livingstone's reply was direct and simple 
as ever. He did not look, he said, for any speedy re- 
sult from his mission, but was sanguine for the 

_ that I might be like Him. In Africa I have had hard work. 



I don't know that any one in Africa despises a man who works 
hard. I find that all eminent men work hard. Eminent geol- 
ogists, mineralogists, men of science in every department, 
if they attain eminence, work hard, and that both early an(? 
late. That is just what -we did. Some of us have left the 
cotton-spinning, but I think that all of us who have been en- 
gaged in that occupation look back on it with feelings of com- 
placency, and feel an interest in the course of our companions. 
There is one thing in cotton-spinning that I always felt to be 
a privilege. We were confined through the whole day, but when 
we got out to the green fields, and could wander through the 
shady woods, and rove about the whole country, we enjoyed 
it immensely. We were delighted to see the flowers and the 
beautiful scenery. We were prepared- to admire. We were 
taught by our confinement to rejoice in the beauties of na- 
ture, and when we got out we enjoyed ourselves to the fullest 
extent." 



HOME. 133 

future. He and his companions might get in the thin 
end of the wedge, which England w^ould drive home. 
He rejoiced that his wife, always the main spoke in 
his wheel, was to go with him. She would be most 
helpful, as she was familiar with the language, able 
to work and ready to endure, and well knew that out 
there one must put one's hand to everything. ''Glad 
indeed am I that I am to be accompanied by my 
guardian angel." For himself, with all eyes resting 
on him, he felt bound to do better than he had ever 
done. 

The last preparations were now hurried on, and 
the last letters written. In one of these, to his old 
friend Young, he gave some testamentary directions, 
ending, "my left arm" (the one which had been in- 
jured by the lion and had now^ a double joint) "goes 
to Professor Owen, mind. This is the will of David 
Livingstone." To Sir Roderick: "Many blessings 
be on you and yours, and if we never meet again on 
earth, may we through infinite mercy meet in hea- 
ven." To which the President answered: "Accept 
my warmest thanks for your farewell note. Believe 
me, my dear friend, that no transaction in my some- 
what long and very active life has so truly rewarded 
me as my intercourse with you, for from beginning 
to end it has been one continual bright gleam." 

The expedition embarked in H. M. Colonial 
steamer "Pearl" at Liverpool on March lo, 1859. 
They took Oswell, their youngest child, with them, 



134 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

leaving the others in England. From on board in 
the Mersey, he wrote his last note to his eldest son : 

"My dear Tom — We are off again, and trust that 
He who rules the waves will watch over us and re- 
main with you, to bless us and make us blessings to 
our fellow-men. The Lord be with you and be very 
gracious to you. Avoid and hate sin, and cleave to 
Jesus as your Saviour from guilt. Tell grandma 
we are off again, and Janet will tell all about us." 

So he went away again, having, as the result of 
his eighteen months at home — as was said with no 
great exaggeration at the farewell dinner — found 
Africa the dark continent, and left it the most inter- 
esting part of the globe to Englishmen. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

THE ZAMBESI EXPEDITION TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 

1859-61. 

Consul Livingstone, on the deck of the "Pearl," 
returning to the dark continent as the representative 
of the first naval and colonial power in the world, 
commander of a national expedition, thoroughly fur- 
nished and adapted to tlie work, and with a free hand 
to carry on that work of exploring and civilizing ac- 
cording to his own judgment, is perhaps the most 
strikingly successful figure which has appeared in 
England during the 19th century. The Scotch peas- 
ant's son, without resources, except what were fur- 
nished by native Africans, discouraged by his em- 
ployers and his family, and stricken with almost 
continual fever, had opened a path across Africa, for 
the most part through countries in which no white 
man was ever know^n to have been before him. What 
might not Consul Livingstone, with the Queen's gold 
band round his cap an"d England behind him, now 
accomplish ? With good reason all men's hopes ran 
high, and, on the whole, were not disappointed. 
Nevertheless, as in the case of so many of God's 
great workers, there is no repetition of that first tri- 

135 



136 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

umphant success. The powers of evil muster more 
strongly after the first surprise, and God's servant is 
allowed to be "evil entreated by tyrants, and has to 
wander out of the way in the wilderness," thankful 
in the end, while he himself has been purified in the 
fire, and taught his own weakness and his Lord's 
strength, if his Master's work has only not gone back 
in his hands. 

He had cut the staff of the expedition down to a 
commander and crew for the steam launch (the 
*'Ma Robert,'' which was taken on board the "Pearl" 
in sections) ; a botanist, Dr. Kirk;* a mining geolo- 
gist, Mr. C. Livingstone; and an assistant, Mr. R. 
Thornton. To each of these he gave separate writ- 
ten instructions as to their special work, impressing 
on all that "Her Majesty's Government attached 
most importance to the moral influence which might 
be exercised on the minds of the natives by a well- 
regulated and orderly household of Europeans, set- 
ting an example of consistent moral conduct, treat- 
ing the people with kindness, teaching them to make 
experiments in agriculture, relieving their wants, 
explaining the more simple arts, imparting to them 
religious instruction as far as they are capable of 
receiving it, and inculcating peace and goodwill."! 

*The present Sir John Kirk, G.C.M.G., F.R.S., whose valu- 
able career on the east coast, as H. M. Political Agent, has 
made its mark everywhere in those regions. He is the sole 
survivor of the original Zambesi Expedition. 

tEvidently, Dr. Livingstone felt himself in a difficult posi- 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 137 

They sailed on March lo, 1859, and reached the 
east coast, the scene of their work, in May. They 
had touched at Sierra Leone, and taken on board 
twelve Kroomen for the river navigation, and had 
received an enthusiastic reception at the Cape, which 
the Doctor contrasts drily in his Journal with his 
last visit five years before. Here the first of his 
serious trials met him. Mrs. Livingstone was so 
unwell that he had to leave her and Oswell with Dr. 
and Mrs. Moffat, who had come down to meet 
them.* On their arrival on the east coast their first 

tion at the head of this enterprise. He was aware of the trou- 
ble that had usually attended civil as contrasted with naval 
and military expeditions, from the absence of that habit of 
discipline and obedience which is so firmly established in the 
latter services. He had never served under Her Majesty's 
Government himself, nor had he been accustomed to command 
such men as were now under him, and there were some things 
in his antecedents that made the duty peculiarly difficult. On 
one thing only he was resolved : to do his own duty to the ut- 
most, and to spare no- pains to induce every member of the 
Expedition to do his. It was impossible for him not to be 
anxious as to how the team would pull together, especially as 
he knew well the influence of a malarious atmosphere in caus- 
ing intense irritability of temper. In some respects, though 
not the most obvious, this was the most trying period of his 
life. 

*0n the 1st of May, 1858. the "Pearl" sailed from Simon's 
Bay, and on the 14th stood in for the entrance to the Zambesi, 
called the West Luabo, or Hoskins's Branch. Of their progress 
Dr. Livingstone gives his impressions in the following letter 
to his friend Mr. James Young: 

" 'Pearl/ loth May, 1858. 
"Here we are, off Cape Cornentes ('Whaur's that, I won- 



138 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

object was to examine thoroughly the four channels 
by which the Zambesi reaches the sea. While this 
was in progress under Mr. Skead, R.N., Surveyor to 
the Cape Government, who had come on with them 
from Cape Town, the "Ms. Robert" was screwed to- 
gether and launched. The Kongone branch was 
found to be the best, and up this they sailed through 
twenty miles of mangrove jungle, full of strange 
birds and game, to the broad Zambesi. Beyond lay 
a fertile tract fifty miles broad, and thickly inhabited 

ner?'), and hope to be off the Luabo four days hence. We 
have been most remarkably favored in the weather, and it 
is well, for had our ship been in a gale with all this weight 
on her deck, it would have been perilous. Mrs. Livingstone 
was sea-sick all the way from Sierra Leone, and got as thin 
as a lath. As this was accompanied by fever, I was forced to 
run into Table Bay, and when I got ashore I found her father 
and mother down all the way from Kuruman to see us and 
help the young missionaries, whom the London Missionary 
Society has not yet sent. Glad, of course, to see the old couple 
again. We had a grand to-do at the Cape. Eight hundred 
guineas were presented in a silver box by the hand of the 
Governor, Sir George Grey, a fine fellow. Sure, no one might 
be more thankful to the Giver of all than myself. The Lord 
grant me grace to serve Him with heart and soul — the only 
return I can make ! ... It was a bitter parting with my 
wife, like tearing the heart out of one. It was so unexpected ; 
and now we are screwing away up the coast. . . , We are 
all agreeable yet, and all looking forward with ardor to our 
enterprise. It is likely that I shall come down with the 'Pearl' 
through the Delta to doctor them if they become ill, and send 
them on to Ceylon with a blessing. All have behaved well, 
and I am really thankful to see it, and hope that God will 
graciously make some better use of us in promoting His 
glory." 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 139 

by Portuguese "colonos" or serfs, eager traders, 
which in good hands "would supply all Europe with 
sugar." Here, forty miles from the bar, the 
'TearF' had to stop, and all the goods and supplies 
on board were landed on an island, whence they were 
gradually taken up, in the "Ma Robert" and pinnace, 
to Shupanga and Senna. During this work the first 
difficulty arose from the desire of Livingstone to get 
them all out of this hotbed of fever as soon as possi- 
ble, and so pressing on the work. "The weak- 
minded" struck for no work on Sundays, and full 
hours for meals. "It is a pity," the Doctor com- 
ments, "that some people cannot see that the true and 
honest discharge of the duties of every-day life is 
Divine service." The naval officer in command now 
left him, and from that time the duties of captain 
were added to his other responsibilities. Opposite 
Shupanga they found war raging between a rebel 
half-caste and the Portuguese, and, coming into the 
thick of the fighting, the Portuguese governor in 
command, who was prostrated with fever, was car- 
ried down to the steamer by Livingstone. In this 
district they found the Portuguese generally easy- 
going masters to their slaves, while the half-castes 
were almost always brutal, justifying the saying, 
"God made white men and black men, but the devil 
made half-castes." Steadily, but slowly, the "Ma 
Robert" steamed up to Tette, and on until stopped 
by the Kebrabasa Rapids, anchoring at night in the 



140 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

stream. ''Why don't you come on shore and sleep 
like other people ?" the natives hailed from the banks. 
''We are held to the bottom with iron ; you may see 
we are not like you Bazunga," the Makololo proudly 
answered; for at Tette he had found his Makololo, 
who, by the help of Major Sicard, had maintained 
themselves, though thirty of their number had died 
of smallpox. "They told us you would never come 
back; but we trusted you, and now we shall have 
sleep," the survivors said, welcoming him with en- 
thusiasm. There was no need to take them back at 
once to Linyanti, so the next few months were de- 
voted to a thorough exploration of the Zambesi up 
to the Kebrabasa Rapids, which convinced him that, 
had he tried to descend that river in canoes on his 
former journey, he would have been certainly lost. 
On the other hand, Livingstone was convinced that 
a more powerful steamer might be taken up during 
the floods, and so open the river from Kebrabasa up 
to the Victoria Falls, in the heart of Africa and the 
Makololo country. So he wrote to his government, 
who in due course responded by sending him out the 
"Pioneer." Meantime he turned to doing what new 
work of exploration he could with the "Ma Robert." 
That unlucky vessel had already lost the name of 
which she had proved herself unworthy, and been re- 
christened the "Asthmatic," from the puffing and 
groaning with which she managed her six or seven 
miles an hour, being easily passed by the native 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 141 

canoes. She consumed a monstrous amount of fuel, 
and was already leaking badly. However, bad as 
she was, he would make the best of her till she sank, 
and so — not without sarcastic comment on the emi- 
nent shipbuilder, who had sold her to the expedition 
a great bargain ''for the love of the cause" — he pro- 
ceeded to explore in her the Shire, the largest north- 
ern affluent of the Zambesi between Tette and the 
coast. The Portuguese declared the river to be un- 
navigable. They had tried it, and found that not 
even canoes could force their way through the mass 
of aquatic plants ; while the Manganja who lived on 
the banks were as hostile as they were warlike. 
However, the Doctor had learned to distrust the 
Portuguese as well as to rely on himself, and so 
started up the Shire in January, 1859, navigating the 
''Asthmatic" himself, though, as he wrote to Miss 
Whately : "As far as my liking goes, I would as soon 
drive a cab in November fogs in London as be skip- 
per in this hot sun." "Our Government," said the 
nearest Portuguese Commandant, "has ordered us to 
assist and protect you, but you go where we dare not 
follow, and how are we to protect you?"* 

*Early in 1859 the exploration of the Shire was begun — a 
river hitherto absolutely unknown. The country around was 
rich and fertile, the natives not unfriendly, but suspicious. 
They had probably never been visited before but by man- 
stealers, and had never seen Europeans. The Shire Valley 
was inhabited by the Manganja, a very warlike race. Some 
days' journey above the junctior with the Zambesi, where the 



142 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

The "Asthmatic," however, went "snorting" 
through the duckweed easily enough, and up the 
river, accompanied on the banks by crowds of Man- 
ganja fully armed, who had sent away their women 
and passed word of the strange invasion from one 
river-village to another. The duckweed disappeared 
twenty-five miles up the river, and the Doctor landed 
and made friends with the chief, Tingane, "an 
elderly, well-made man, gray-headed, and over six 
feet high," who called his people together to hear 
what the stranger's objects were. These had to be 
stated by an interpreter, as the dialect differed from 
that of Tette, so that the Doctor only understood 
enough to know whether the interpreter w^as report- 
ing faithfully. This he did on the whole, but with 
"an inveterate tendency to wind up with 'the Book 
says you are to grow cotton, and the English are to 
come and buy it,' or with some joke of his own 
which might have been ludicrous had it not been 
seriously distressing." He found the Manganja al- 
ready with some knowledge of the English efforts to 

Shire issues from the mountains, the progress of the party 
was stopped by rapids, to which they gave the name of the 
"Murchison Cataracts." It seemed in vain to penetrate among 
the people at that time without supplies, considering how sus- 
picious they were. Crowds went along the banks watching 
them by day; they had guards over them all night, and these 
were always ready with their bows and poisoned arrows. 
Nevertheless, some progress was made in civilizing them, 
and at a future time it was hoped that further exploration 
might take place. 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 143 

suppress the slave-trade, and readily assenting to his 
earnest teaching that "the Father of all was seriously 
displeased with His children for selling and killing 
each other. . . . The bearing of the Manganja 
'at this time was very independent — a striking con- 
trast to the cringing attitude they afterward assumed 
when the cruel scourge of slave-hunting passed over 
the country." Farther up they were stopped by four 
falls, which they named the Murchison Cataracts, 
and returned to Tette without further efforts for the 
present. 

In March they returned again to the cataracts, 
made friends with the local chief, Chibisa, and leav- 
ing the steamer opposite his village, the two Doctors, 
with twenty-five Makololo, started north for the 
great lake of which the natives spoke. Their guides 
failed and deserted, and the natives were hostile, but 
they pressed on and upward, until on April i8th they 
discovered Lake Shirwa, at a height of eighteen hun- 
dred feet, and upward of sixty miles in length, in the 
midst of a beautiful and rich country bounded by 
mountains eight thousand feet high. Here they 
heard of a much larger lake to the north, bm not 
wishing just then to try the native temper further, 
they here turned back after taking observations, re- 
joined the steamer, and reached Tette on June 23d.* 

♦Here is the account he gave of his proceedings to his little 
daughter Agnes : 

"River Shire, 1st June, 1859. — I am now on my way to 



144 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

He now descended the Zambesi to send the Kroo- 
men home, get a supply of provisions, and beach the 
"Asthmatic" for repairs, returning in August for a 
third ascent of the Shire, and a push forward to the 

Tette, but we ran up the Shire some forty miles to buy rice 
for our company. Uncle Charles is there. He has had some 
fever, but is better. We left him there about two months 
ago, and Dr. Kirk and I, with some fifteen Makololo, ascended 
this river one hundred miles in the 'Ma-Robert,' then left the 
vessel and proceeded beyond that on foot till we had discov- 
ered a magnificent lake called Shirwa (pronounced Shurwah). 
It was very grand, for we could not see the end of it, though 
some way up a mountain ; and all around it are mountains 
much higher than any you see in Scotland. One mountain 
stands in the lake, and people live on it. Another, called 
Zomba, is more than six thousand feet high, and people live 
on it, too, for we could see their gardens on its top, which is 
larger than from Glasgow to Hamilton, or about from fifteen 
to eighteen miles. The country is quite a Highland region, 
and many people live in it. Most of them were afraid of us. 
The women ran into their huts and shut the doors. The chil- 
dren screamed in terror, and even the hens would fly away 
and leave their chickens. I suppose you would be frightened, 
too, if you saw strange creatures, say a lot of Trundlemen, 
like those on the Isle of Man pennies, come whirling up the 

street. No one was 

impudent to us ex- 

*^|^^^^^^^^Mi^^Slf|yH cept some slave- 




traders, but they be- 
came civil as soon 
as they learned we were English and not Portuguese. We 
saw the sticks they employ for training any one whom they 
have just bought. One is about eight feet long, the head, or 
neck rather, is put into the space between the dotted lines 
and shaft, and another slave carries the end. When they are 
considered tame they are allowed to go in chains. 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 145 

great northern lake which they had as yet been un- 
able to reach. 

On the 29th they left the steamer and started — 
four whites, thirty-two Makololo, and four guides — 
for the discovery of Lake Nyassa. They found the 
Manganja beyond the Murchison Falls an industri- 
ous race, working in iron, cotton, clay, and making 
baskets and fish-nets, and men and women turning 
out for field-labor, but greatly addicted to the beer 
which they brew in large quantities and drink in a 
few days and nights, as it will not keep. They fol- 
lowed the Shire above the cataracts, a broad and 
deep river with little current, arriving at the village 
of the chief, Muana-Moesi, in the middle of Septem- 
ber. Here they were assured that the river stretched 
on for "two months," and then came out from be- 
tween perpendicular rocks which could not be passed. 
"Let us go back to the ship," said the Makololo ; "it 
is no use trying to find this lake." "We shall see the 
wonderful rocks, at any rate," said the Doctor. 
"Yes," they pleaded, "and when you see them, you 
will just want to see something else." The chief, 
who came up later, admitted that there was a lake. 
Scarcely had he left them when a wail arose from the 
river. A crocodile had carried off his principal wife. 
The Makololo seized their spears and rushed to the 
river, but too late. "The white men came," Muana- 
Moesi reported to his neighbors, "bathed and rubbed 
themselves with a white medicine" (soap), "and his 



146 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

wife going afterward to bathe was taken by a croco- 
dile; he did not know whether in consequence of the 
medicine or not." On their return they were looked 
on with fear, all the men leaving this village till they 
passed. At noon on September i6th they discov- 
ered Lake Nyassa.* 

Here Livingstone was confirmed in his conviction' 
that this splendid lake, with its bracing climate and 
rich banks, would become the key of Eastern Central 

*Livingstone had no doubt that he and his party were the 
discoverers ; Dr. Roscher, on whose behalf a claim was sub- 
sequently made, was two months later, and his unfortunate 
murder by the natives made it doubtful at what point he 
reached the lake. The discovery of Lake Nyassa, as well as 
Lake Shirwa, was of immense importance, because they were 
both parallel to the ocean, and the whole traffic of the regions 
beyond must pass by this line. The configuration of the Shire 
Valley, too, was favorable to colonization. The valley occu- 
pied three different levels. First there was a plain on the 
level of the river, like that of the Nile, close and hot. Rising 
above this to the east there was another plain, 2,000 feet high, 
three or four miles broad, salubrious and pleasant. Lastly, 
there was a third plain 3,000 feet above the second, positively 
cold. To find such varieties of climate within a few miles of 
each other was most interesting. 

In other respects the region opened up was remarkable. 
There was a great amount of fertile land, and the products 
were almost endless. The people were industrious ; in the 
Upper Shire, notwithstanding a great love of beer, they lived 
usually to a great age. Cleanliness was not a universal vir- 
tue; the only way in which the Expedition could get rid of 
a troublesome follower was by threatening to wash him. The 
most disagreeable thing in the appearance of the women was 
their lip-ornament, consisting of a ring of ivory or tin, either 
hollovir Qv made iiito a cup, inserted in the upper lip. 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. I47 

Africa. But the curse of the slave-trade was al- 
ready on it. . They met Arabs with chain-gangs. 
The ]\Iakololo appealed to the Doctor : "Why won't 
you let us choke them ? You call us bad, but are we 
like these fellows ?" 

To liberate these slaves would have been useless, 
as the neighboring villagers would have retaken and 
sold them again, so the Doctor sorrow^fully refused ; 
but the glorious country seemed to inspire him, and 
he wrote home : 'T have a strong desire to commence 
a system of colonization among the honest poor; I 
would give £2,000 or £3,000 for the purpose. Colo- 
nization from such a country as ours ought to be one 
of hope, not of despair. It ought not to be looked 
on as the last shift a family can come to, but the per- 
formance of an imperative duty to our blood, our 
country, our religion, and to humankind. . , . 
I wonder why we can't have the old monastery sys- 
tem without celibacy. In no part of the world I 
have been in does the prospect seem so inviting and 
promise so much influence." 

Again he had to turn back, and on October 6, 
1859, they reached the ship once more. 

He now felt that the time had come for taking 
back the Makololo, but before starting west had to 
run down to Kongone for supplies and letters. 
These arrived in H. M. ship "Lynx," Captain Berke- 
ley, but unluckily the letter-bags were lost in the 
capsizing of a boat in the surf on the bar. With the 



148 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

efficient help of Captain Berkeley, the "Asthmatic" 
was once more patched up, and they returned to 
Tette.* Leaving her there, with the remaining two 
English sailors, the Doctor started west on May 
15th. Several of the Makololo had married slaves 
and had children. By the Portuguese law all bap- 
tized children are free, but the law was of no force 
on the Zambesi. The officers laughed and said, 
"Lisbon laws are very stringent, but somehow, pos- 
sibly from the heat, here they lose all their force." 
Only one woman, the wife of a Makololo, accom- 
panied them. Several men stayed at Tette, while 
the rest started, though they were told they could 
stay if they liked. "Contact with slaves had de- 
stroyed their sense of honor; they would not go in 

*A month later he writes to Sir Roderick Murchison, from 
Kongone, loth March, i860, that he is sending Rae home for 
a vessel: 

"I tell Lord John Russell that he (Rae) may thereby do us 
more service than he can now in a worn-out steamer, with 
35 patches, covering at least 100 holes. I say to his Lordship, 
that after we have, by patient investigation and experiment, 
at the risk of life, rendered the fever not more formidable than 
a common cold; found access, from a good harbor on the 
coast, to the main stream; and discovered a pathway into the 
magnificent Highland lake region, which promises so fairly 
for our commerce in cotton, arid for our policy in suppressing 
the trade in slaves, I earnestly hope that he will crown our 
efforts by securing our free passage through those parts of the 
Zambesi and Shire of which the Portuguese make no use, 
and by enabling us to introduce civilization in a manner which 
will extend the honor and influence of the English nam©." 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 149 

daylight, but decamped in the night, in only one 
instance, however, taking our goods. By the 
time we had got well into the Kebrabasa hills, 
thirty men, nearly one-third of the party, had 
turned back." 

Livingstone was never so happy as on one of these 
long tramps, where the camp was made up in the 
most orderly manner night after night, each group 
having their allotted place and fire under their head- 
man, with the fire of the Englishmen in the centre. 
He recounts the quaint talk which he heard on many 
subjects. Political discussions, as at home, moved 
them most. ''The whole camp is roused, and the 
men shout to one another from the different fires. 
The misgovernment of chiefs furnishes an inexhaus- 
tible theme. 'We could govern ourselves better,' 
they cry. 'What is the use of chiefs at all ? They 
don't w^ork. The chief is fat and has plenty of 
wives, w^hilst we do the hard work, have hunger and 
only one wnfe, more likely none. Now this must be 
bad, unjust, and wrong.' All shout a loud ehe, 
equivalent to our 'Hear, hear.' Next the head-men, 
Kanyata and Tuba, with his loud voice, take up the 
question on the loyal side. 'The chief is the father 
of his people. Can there be people without a father, 
eh? God made the chief. Who says the chief is 
not wise? He is wise, but his children fools.' 
Tuba goes on generally till he has silenced all oppo- 
sition." 



150 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

They averaged two and a half miles an hour, and 
marched six hours a day, the Doctor trying in all 
ways to make the march a pleasure. The four 
Englishmen had to do the shooting for food, and yet 
were surprised to find that they could tire their men 
out. The European constitution, Livingstone thinks, 
"has a power of endurance, even in the tropics, 
greater than that of the hardiest meat-eating Afri- 
cans." 

Parts of the country, formerly populous, they 
found deserted. Lions abounded at many places. 
The ''majestic sneak," as the Doctor names the king 
of beasts, would come near the camp and roar, at- 
tracted by the smell of meat. On these occasions 
the men, who half believed the superstition that he is 
a chief in disguise, would remonstrate. Tuba : 
''You a chief, eh? You call yourself a chief, do 
you? What kind of chief are you, to come sneak- 
ing round in the dark trying to steal our buffalo 
meat? Are you not ashamed of yourself? A pretty 
chief truly; you are like the scavenger beetle, and 
think of yourself only. You have not the heart of 
a chief. Why don't you kill your own beef ?" An- 
other sedate man, who seldom spoke : "We are trav- 
elling peaceably through the country back to our own 
chief. We never killed people or stole anything. 
The buffalo meat is ours, and it does not become a 
great chief like you to be prowling about in the dark 
like a hyena to steal the meat of strangers. Go and 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 151 

hunt for yourself. There is plenty of game in the 
forest."* 

In June they came amongst old acquaintances, 
Pangola and Mpende ; and still travelling on, sighted 
Semalembore's mountains on July 9th. They sent 
him a present, and soon were in bracing air, three 
thousand feet above sea-level, with superb views of 
the great Zambesi Valley. From Kafue to the Falls 
they were amongst friends, and plentifully supplied, 
the men clapping their hands as they entered and left 
the villages, and the women lulilooing with the shrill 
call of "let us sleep" or ''peace." Alas! there was 
cause for the cry, for here Livingstone became aware 
that Portuguese slave-dealers were following in his 
footsteps. ''We were now so fully convinced," he 
writes, "that in opening the country through which 
no Portuguese durst pass previously, we were made 
the unwilling instruments of spreading the slave- 

*Wherever they go, Dr. Livingstone has his eye on the 
trees and plants and fruits of the region, with a view to com- 
merce ; while he is no less interested to watch the treatment 
of fever, when cases occur, and greatly gratified that Dr. Kirk, 
who had been trying a variety of medicines on himself, made 
rapid recovery when he took Dr. Livingstone's pills. He used 
to say if he had followed Morison, and set up as pill-maker, 
he might have made his fortune. Passing through the Bazi- 
zulu he had an escape from a rhinoceros, as remarkable though 
not quite as romantic as his escape from the lion; the animal 
came dashing at him, and suddenly, for some unknown reason, 
stopped when close to him, and gave him time to escape, as if 
it had been struck by his color, and doubtful if hunting a white 
man would be good sport. 



152 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

trade, that had we not promised to return with the 
Makololo we should have left the Zambesi and gone 
to the Rovuma or some other inlet to the interior." 
They reached Sekeletu's country on August 4th, and 
soon saw^ the columns rising from the Victoria Falls, 
making a detour to visit them again and make a more 
careful inspection. Here they found Mr. Baldwin, 
a Natal gentleman, in a sort of durance to Mashot- 
lane, the neighboring head-man. He had arrived 
without a guide by the aid of a pocket-compass, and, 
while Mashotlane was ferrying him over, jumped in 
and swam ashore. ''If he had been devoured by a 
crocodile, the English would have blamed us. He 
nearly did us a great injury, therefore we said he 
must pay a fine." 

From Mr. Baldwin, Livingstone heard news which 
deeply grieved him. Mr. Baldwin had found a mis- 
sionary party bound for Linyanti, at a well in the 
desert, starving. He shot game for them and en- 
abled them to get to Linyanti. Here Mr. Helmore, 
the chief missionary, at xe began active work 
preaching and teaching, but in a few weeks his wife 
sickened of fever and died. He held on gallantly 
himself, but was soon down and dead within a 
month, as were also three other of the nine Euro- 
peans in the mission. Helmore's associate mission- 
ary, who was young and ignorant of the language, 
went back with their native servants, four of whom 
also had died. The Doctor felt that if he had been a 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 153 

few months earlier all might have been saved, for he 
had now almost a specific for the fever. Dr. Kirk, 
after experimenting on himself with results which 
threatened disaster, had recovered almost at once on 
taking Livingstone's pills.* 

They found a sad state of things at Sesheke, 
where they met Sekeletu. He had been struck by 
leprosy and was isolated. He believed himself be- 
witched, and had put several chief men to death, had 
altered Sebituane's policy of conciliating the tribes 
he had subdued or attracted, and advanced none but 
pure Makololo. Moreover, there had been a long 
drought, which had scattered the people in search of 
food; the inferior chiefs were setting up for them- 
selves, and Sebituane's empire was fast crumbling 
to pieces. However, Sekeletu received them most 
hospitably, was pleased with the presents they 
brought, and insisted on their treating him for his 

*0n going to Linyanti, Dr. Livingstone found the wagon 
and other articles which he had left there in 1853, safe and 
sound, except from the effects of weather and the white ants. 
The expressions of kindness and confidence toward him ohj 
the part of the natives greatly touched him. The people were 
much disappointed at not seeing Mrs. Livingstone and the 
children. But this confidence was the result of his way of 
dealing with them. "It ought never to be forgotten that in- 
fluence among the heathen can be acquired only by patient 
continuance in well-doing, and that good manners are as nec- 
essary among barbarians .as among the civilized." The Mako- 
lolo were the most interesting tribe that Dr. Livingstone had 
ever seen. While now with them he was unwearied in his 
efforts for their spiritual good. 



154 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

leprosy. They did not entirely cure him, but left 
him in better spirits and health. Dr. Livingstone 
went on to Linyanti to get medicines and other 
I things out of the wagon he had left there in 1853. 
He was received with every demonstration of joy, 
the town-crier proclaiming before dawn, ''I have 
dreamed! I have dreamed! that Monare" (the Doc- 
tor) ''was coming, and that the tribe would live if 
you prayed God and gave heed to the word of 
Monare,'' and Sekeletu's wives supplying abundant 
provisions. All was as he had left it, except that the 
white ants had eaten one of his wagon wheels. He 
returned to Sesheke, where they stayed till Septem- 
ber, holding regular services as well as doctoring 
chief and people. On the i6th they started west 
again, accompanied by men selected by Sekeletu, 
who behaved splendidly. Thus on the canoes com- 
ing suddenly into rapids where the waves began to 
fill them, two men out of each jumped out at once 
and swam alongside, guiding the canoes. They then 
ordered a Batoka man to jump out, as ''the white 
men must be saved." "I can't swim," said the 
Batoka man. "Jump out then, and hold on to the 
canoe," which he did at once, and they got safely 
down. 

They reached Tette and the "Asthmatic" on No- 
vember 2 1 St, having been absent six months. The 
two sailors were well, and had kept the steamer afloat 
by constant patching, besides exercising other indus- 



TO LINYANTI AND BACK. 155 

tries. Two sheep and two dozen fowls had been 
left with them, but they had bought two monkeys, 
who ate all the eggs till the natives stole the fowls. 
A hippopotamus came up one night and laid waste 
their vegetable garden; the sheep broke into their 
cotton-patch when it was in flower and ate all but 
the stems, and then the crocodiles got the sheep. 
They also set up as smiths, and a Portuguese 
brought them a double-barreled rifle to be browned. 
"I think I knows how," said one, whose father was 
a blacksmith, "you've only to put the barrels in the 
fire." This was done, and to Jack's amazement the 
barrels came asunder. They stuck them together 
with resin and sent them back with a message; "it 
was all they could do," they said, "and they wouldn't 
charge him for the job." They would only pay 
market-price for provisions, and if the traders raised 
if they brought out a chameleon, of which the natives 
have a great dread, and the moment they saw it 
jumped overboard. 

They now started in the "Asthmatic" for Kon- 
gone, to meet the new steamer, which they expected 
from England. On the way down, that remarkable 
vessel was plainly on her last voyage. "Our engi- 
neer has been doctoring her bottom with fat and 
patches, and pronounces it safe to go down the river 
slowly. Every day a new leak breaks out, and he is 
in, plastering and scoring, the pump going con- 
stantly. I never expected to find her afloat, but the 



156 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. ' 

engineer had nothing else to do, and it saves us from 
buying dear canoes from the Portuguese." She held 
out until December 20th, when the Journal notes: 
''One day above Senna the 'Ma Robert' stuck on a 
sandbank and filled, so we had to go ashore and 
leave hen" 



CHAPTER IX. 

THE UNIVERSITIES MISSION. 
1861-62. 

As he neared Kongone, Livingstone was rejoicing 
in the thought of the Universities Mission, which 
was on its way out, and from which he hoped great 
things, and wrote : 'T am greatly dehghted at the 
prospect of a Church of England Mission to Central 
Africa." He had not long to wait, as the "Pioneer" 
arrived off the bar, with Bishop Mackenzie and his 
staff, on January 31, 1861. The only fault of the 
"Pioneer" was that she drew too much water for 
the Shire at this season ; and this, together with the 
wish of the home government, turned him from the 
immediate planting of the Mission on or near its 
banks to the exploration of the Rovuma. The 
mouth of that river is north of the Portuguese boun- 
dary, and it seemed likely that it came from the 
north of Lake Nyassa. If this were so, it might 
prove in many ways the best route for the interior, 
and so the best situation for the Mission. Accord- 
ingly they sailed for the Rovuma in the "Pioneer," 
and, with the "Lyra" accompanying, explored some 
hundred miles of its banks, until, the March floods 

157 



158 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

being over, they could get no higher and returned to 
the Zambesi. Livingstone now resolved to settle 
the Mission on the Shire, and then explore Lake 
Nyassa, and the Rovuma from the lake downward. 

When they reached the Upper Shire the water was 
low, and the toil of getting the 'Tioneer" over the 
frequent sandbanks excessive. Anchors had to be 
laid out ahead, and the capstans worked. Living- 
stone's friendship for the Bishop and his compan- 
ions, Scudamore and Horace Waller, grew rapidly 
as he saw them ever ready and anxious to lend a 
hand in hauling, and working as hard as any one on 
board. But the clouds were already gathering. As 
they approached the Manganja country on their way 
to Chibisa, the most powerful chief of the tribe, they 
heard sad tidings. The slave-gangs from Tette and 
other Portuguese settlements were in the country. 
They had followed Livingstone's steps in i860, and 
on pretense of being "his children," had first cajoled 
the natives, and then set tribe against tribe, buying 
captives from both sides and marching them off in 
gangs to the coast. Everywhere they found vil- 
lages, populous and prosperous on their last visit, 
deserted and pillaged. On July 15th they halted at 
the village of their old friend, Mbame. News came 
that a slave-gang would be passing presently. A 
hurried consultation w^as held. "Shall we inter- 
fere ?" In a few minutes the long line of manacled 
men, women, and children came wending their way 



THE UNIVERSITIES MISSION. 159 

round the hill and into the valley, on the side of 
which the village stood. The black drivers, armed 
with muskets and bedecked with various articles of 
finery, marched jauntily in the front, middle, and 
rear of the line, some of them blowing exultant notes 
out of long, tin horns. ''The instant the fellows 
caught sight of us they bolted like mad into the for- 
est. The chief of the party alone remained, as he, 
from being in front, had his hand tightly grasped by 
a Makololo." He proved to be a well-known slave 
of the Commandant of Tette, the successor of Liv- 
ingstone's friend. Major Sicard, who had been re- 
called. The slaves, eighty- four in number, were lib- 
erated; all but four proved to be captives taken in 
war. *'The others tied and starved us," a small boy 
said. "You cut the ropes and bid us eat. What 
sort of people are you? Where did you come 
from?" The Bishop had been away bathing, but on 
his return approved, and attached the whole to his 
Mission. In the next few days' progress they scat- 
tered several more slave-gangs. The Bishop now 
/accepted the offer of Chigunda, a friendly Manganja 
chief, to settle at Magomero, his village. Befoie 
leaving the Mission, Livingstone agreed with the 
Bishop to visit the Ajawa chief, who was making 
war on the Manganja. They started on the 226., 
met crowds of Manganja in flight, found villages 
they had left prosperous two years before deserted 
and destroyed, the corn poured out in cartloads along 



160 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

the pathsc At two o'clock they came on a burning 
v^illage, and heard triumphant shouts mingled with 
the wail of the Manganja women over their slain, 
^'The Bishop then engaged us in fervent prayer ; and 
on rising from our knees, we saw a long line of 
Ajawa warriors with their captives coming round 
the hillside/' The head-man left the path and stood 
on an ant-hill. He was told that they had come for 
a peaceful interview, but the Ajawa, flushed with 
success, yelled, ''Nkondo, Nkondo" (war, war), and 
closed round till within fifty yards, shooting poi- 
soned arrows, one of which passed between the 
Bishop and Livingstone. Some four of the Ajawa 
who had guns now opened fire, and then 'Sve were 
obliged in self-defense to fire and drive them off. 
Orily two captives escaped to us, but probably most 
of the prisoners fled elsewhere in the confusion. We 
returned to the village we had left in the morning 
after a hungry, fatiguing, and most unpleasant day," 
It was now debated whether the Mission should 
aid the Manganja against the Ajawa. "No," was 
Livingstone's advice, "don't interfere in native quar- 
rels." Early in August he left the Mission, on a^ 
pleasant site at Magomero, surrounded by stately 
shady trees. Everything promised fairly. The 
weather was delightful. Provisions poured in very 
cheap. "The Bishop, with characteristic ardor, 
began learning the language; Mr, Waller began 
building, and Mr. Scudamore improvised a sort of 



THE UNIVERSITIES MISSION. 161 

infant school for the children, than which there is no 
better way for acquiring an unwritten tongue." It 
was November before Livingstone saw the Bishop 
again, on his return from Lake Nyassa, which he 
now resolved to explore thoroughly. 

He started with Dr. Kirk, Charles Livingstone, 
and one white sailor, and a Makololo crew for the 
four-oared gig of the "Pioneer," which was carried 
by hired natives past the forty miles of the rapids 
which he named the Murchison Falls, in which the 
Shire descends twelve hundred feet. Above them 
the Shire was broad and deep, with a current of only 
one mile an hour, and practically a southern exten- 
sion of the lake, into which they sailed on September 
2d. From Cape Maclear they found the lake up- 
ward of two hundred miles long, and surrounded by 
a dense population, industrious and friendly on all 
the central and southern banks. Livingstone com- 
pares it to the Sea of Gahlee. In the northern part 
all was changed. The lawless tribe of the Mazitu 
(Zulus) who dwelt in the highlands swept down on 
the lake tribes almost at will, plundering and enslav- 
ing; and there was a regular crossing-place for the 
Arab dhows with their cargoes of slaves. All about 
the lake was now examined with earnest eyes. The 
population was denser than he had seen anywhere 
else. The people were civil, and even friendly, but 
undoubtedly they were not handsome. At the north 
of the lake they were lawless, and at one point the 



162 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

party were robbed in the night — the first time such a 
thing had occurred in Livingstone's African life.* 
He learnt afterward from the Consul at Zanzibar that 

*In "The Zambesi and its Tributaries," Livingstone gives 
a grave account of the robbery. In his letters to his friends 
he makes fun of it, as he did of the raid of the Boers. To Mr. 
F. Fitch he writes: "You think I cannot get into a scrape. 
. , . . For the first time in Africa we were robbed. Ex- 
pert thieves crept into our sleeping-places, about four o'clock 
in the morning, and made off with what they could lay their 
hands on. Sheer over-modesty ruined me. It was Sunday, 
and such a black mass swarmed around our sail, which we 
used as a hut, that we could not hear prayers. I had before 
slipped away a quarter of a mile to dress for church, but see- 
ing a crowd of women watching me through the reeds, I did 
not change my old 'unmentionables' — they were so old, I had 
serious thoughts of converting them into — charity ! Next morn- 
ing early all our spare clothing was walked off with, and there 
I was left by my modesty nearly through at the knees, and no 
change of shirt, flannel, or stockings. After that, don't say 
that I can't get into a scrape !" The same letter thanks Mr. 
Fitch for sending him Punch, whom he deemed a sound di- 
vine! On the same subject he wrote at another time, regret- 
ting that Punch did not reach him, especially a number in 
which notice was taken of himself. "It never came. Who the 
miscreants are that steal them I cannot divine. I would not 
grudge them a reading if they would only send them on after- 
ward. Perhaps binding the whole year's Punches would be the 
best plan; and then we need not label it 'Sermons in Lent," 
or -Tracts on Homoeopathy,' but you may write inside, as Dr. 
Buckland did on his umbrella, 'Stolen from Dr. Livingstone.* 
We really enjoy them very much. They are good against 
fever. The 'Essence of Parliament,' for instance, is capital. 
One has to wade through an ocean of paper to get the same 
information, without any of the fun. And by the time the 
newspapers have reached us, most of the interest in public 
matters has evaporated.'* 



THE UNIVERSITIES MISSION. 163 

nineteen thousand slaves passed yearly through that 
custom-house from this region. After a survey of 
the lake, and noting all the principal features, he re- 
turned to the "Pioneer" at Chibisa's early in Novem- 
ber, impressed more than ever with the value of Lake 
Nyassa as the key of Central Africa. Here the 
Bishop came to see him, reporting cheerfully of the 
prospects at Magomero, and of his hope of peace 
with the Ajawa, whom the Manganja had defeated 
with the aid of the Mission. Livingstone had his 
misgivings, but, after making an appointment to 
meet the Bishop in January, when he hoped to bring 
up Miss Mackenzie and other English, started for 
the coast. It proved a long and tedious journey, the 
'Tioneer" being stranded on one sandbank of the 
Shire for five weeks. Here occurred the first death 
in the expedition, that of the carpenter's mate. 
When they reached the sea, early in January, 1862, 
they found that H. M. S. "Gorgon," with Miss Mac- 
kenzie on board, and the sections of the "Lady 
Nyassa" steamer for the lake, had been off the bar, 
but not finding them, had sailed for Mozambique. 
There was nothing for it but to wait, and on the last 
of January the "Gorgon" hove in sight again, tow- 
ing a brig, and the "Pioneer" started out to meet hen 
"I have steamboat in the brig," signaled the "Gor- 
gon." "Welcome news," Livingstone answered. 
"Wife aboard," came next. "Accept my best 
thanks," Livingstone answered. Mrs. Livingstone, 



1G4 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Miss Mackenzie, with others for the Mission, and 
the Rev. James Stewart, sent out by the Committee 
of the Scotch Free Church to survey for a Mission 
station, came on shore next day.* 

Captain Wilson, of the "Gorgon," threw himself 
into the work zealously, and, leaving his ship at the 
bar, went up with them in the "Pioneer" to Shu- 
panga, where his men put the "Lady Nyassa" to- 
gether for Livingstone. While this was in progress 
the Captain himself started in boats to take Miss 
Mackenzie, Mrs. Burrup, and the rest up to the 
Bishop at Magomero. On the way he met the news 
of the Bishop's death on January 31st, and returned 
to Shupanga with the sad news and the two poor 
ladies, reaching it on March nth. 

It was from the Makololo, who had settled at the 
junction of the Shire and the Ruo, the Bishop's 
river, that they heard the story. The Bishop had 
sent a party to find a shorter route to the Shire from 
Magomero. They were attacked in a slave-trading 

^Livingstone's letters show him a little out of sorts at the 
manifold obstructions that had always been making him "too 
late" — "too late for Rovuma below, too late for Rovuma above, 
and now too late for our own appointment," but in greater 
trouble because the "Lady Nyassa" had not been sent by sea, 
as he had strongly urged, and as it afterward appeared might 
have been done quite well. To take out the pieces and fit them 
up would involve heavy expense and long delay, and perhaps 
the season would be lost again. But Livingstone had always 
a saving clause, in all his lamentations, and here it is; "I 
know that all was done for the best." 



THE UNIVERSITIES MISSION. 165 

village and two Manganja carriers captured. The 
wives came to the Bishop, imploring him to rescue 
them. At last he complied, and, taking with him a 
guard of the Makololo (who were delighted with 
the chance of ''eating the sheep of the slave-trad- 
ers"), rescued the captives, and burned the village of 
the captors. The Bishop and his party returned to 
Magomero. He was ill and exhausted, but though 
unfit for travelling, started at once with Mr. Burrup 
to keep an appointment at Chibisa's. On the way 
his canoe upset, and he lost all his medicines, tea, 
coffee, and clothing. They got to a small island on 
the Ruo, where the Bishop died after three weeks' 
prostration. 

Mr. Burrup, after burying his chief, was carried 
back by the faithful Makololo to Magomero, where 
he, too, died. 

'This will hurt us all," Livingstone mused sadly, 
resting his head on his hand in the little cabin of the 
"Pioneer." When the news reached home an angry 
controversy arose, some blaming the Bishop, some 
Livingstone. Though bound to admit that he had 
given counsel to the Mission never to interfere in 
native quarrels, the Doctor, with characteristic gen- 
erosity, declared that had he been there he should 
have taken the same view as the Bishop. "The 
blow is quite bewildering," he wrote to the Bishop 
of Cape Town. "The two strongest men so quickly 
cut down, and one of them, humanly speaking, indis- 



166 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

pensable to success. ... I cannot help feeling 
sadly disturbed, in view of the effect the news may 
have at home. I shall not swerve a hair's breadth 
from my work while life is spared, and I trust the 
supporters of the Mission may not shrink back from 
all they have set their hearts to." 



CHAPTER X. 

RECALL VOYAGE TO INDIA. 

1863-64. 

It was with a sad heart that Livingstone carried 
Captain Wilson and the bereaved ladies down to 
Kongone to meet the ''Gorgon." She had been 
obliged to leave the bar from stress of weather, and 
the 'Tioneer" was detained at that most unhealthy 
spot till April 4th, when she returned, and Captain 
Wilson sailed away, taking with him the heartfelt 
gratitude of Livingstone for his splendid help and 
sympathy. The ''Pioneer" steamed back to Shu- 
panga on April nth, bearing a fever-stricken 
freight. Then came the last few days of his mar- 
ried life. There had always been in their intercourse 
"what would be thought by some more than a de- 
corous amount of merriment and play. ... I 
said to her a few days before her fatal illness, *We 
old bodies ought now to be more sober, and not play 
so much.' 'Oh, no/ she said ; 'you must always be 
as playful as you have always been. ... I have 
always believed it to be the true way, to let the head 
grow wise, but keep the heart young and playful.' " 

We are now arrived at the last illness and the 

167 



168 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

death of Mrs. Livingstone. After she had parted 
from her husband at the Cape in the spring of 1858, 
she returned with her parents to Kuruman, and in 
November gave birth there to her youngest child, 
Anna Mary. Thereafter she returned to Scotland, 
to be near her other children. Some of them were 
at school. No comfortable home for them all could 
be formed, and though many friends were kind, the 
time was not a happy one. Mrs. Livingstone's de- 
sire to be with her husband was intense ; not only the 
longings of an affectionate heart, and the necessity 
of taking counsel with him about the family, but the 
feeling that when overshadowed by one whose faith 
was so strong her fluttering heart would regain its 
steady tone, and she would be better able to help both 
him and the children, gave vehemence to this desire. 
Her letters to her husband tell of much spiritual 
darkness ; his replies were the very soul of tenderness 
and Christian earnestness. Providence seemed to 
favor her wish ; the vessel in which she sailed was 
preserved from imminent destruction, and she had 
the great happiness of finding her husband alive and 
well 

On the 2 1 St of April she was stricken with the 
fever, on the 25th she became delirious, on the 27th 
(Sunday) she died, and Mr. Stewart found the man 
who had "faced so many deaths, and braved so many 
dangers, now utterly broken down, and weeping like 
a child." "Oh, my Mary, my Mary! how often we 



RECALL— VOYAGE TO INDIA. 169 

have longed for a quiet home since you and I were 
cast adrift at Kolobeng. . . . She rests by the 
large baobab tree at Shupanga, sixty feet in circum- 
ference. The men asked to be allowed to mount 
guard till we had got the grave built with bricks dug 
from an old house." *'Kongone, May nth. — My 
dear, dear Mary has been this evening a fortnight in 
Heaven. . . . For the first time in my life I 
feel willing to die. D. L." So comments the 
Journal. 

The heading of the last extract, *'Kongone," 
shows that even this sorrow was not allowed to in- 
terrupt his work. He had gone down again to bring 
up the last portions of the "Lady Nyassa," which 
w^as now finished and launched on June 23d, too late 
for ascending the Shire. The December rains must 
set in before she could be got up to the Murchison 
Falls. He turned once more to the Rovuma, as- 
cending one hundred and fifty-six miles in boats, in 
the hope that it might be found to come from the 
northern end of Lake Nyassa. Helped by the cap- 
tain of H. M. S. ''Orestes," he now satisfied himself 
that there was no waterway to the east coast from 
that lake. On the upper part the character of the 
people changed. They became treacherous and hos- 
tile, and there was no trade, for here the baleful track 
of the Arab slave-dealers crossed the river. Living- 
stone returned to the ship, a more determined enemy 
than ever of the traffic, which was ruining the whole 



1^0 tHE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

regioHo He reached the Zambesi in November, but 
only got up to Shupanga by December 19th. He 
was evidently rather relieved to find that the Zam- 
besi must remain the highway to Lake Nyassa and 
the country beyond. ''It may seem weak," he wrote 
to Sir R. Murchison, ''to feel a chord vibrating to 
the dust of her who rests on the banks of the Zam- 
besi, and to think that the path by that is consecrated 
by her remains."* 

In January, 1863, he was working up the Shire 

*Livingstone had the satisfaction of knowing that his ac- 
count of the trip to Lake Nyassa had excited much interest 
in the Cabinet at home, and that a strong remonstrance had 
been addressed to the Portuguese Government against slave- 
hunting. But it does not appear that this led to any improve- 
ment at the time. 

While stung into more than ordinary energy by the atro- 
cious deeds he witnessed around him, Livingstone was living 
near the borders of the unseen world. He writes to Sir 
Thomas Maclear on the 27th of October, 1862: 

"I suppose that I shall die in these uplands, and somebody 
will carry out the plan I have longed to put into practice. 
I have been thinking a great deal since the departure of my 
beloved one about the regions whither she has gone, and im- 
agine from the manner the Bible describes it we have got too 
much monkery in our ideas. There will be work there as 
well as here, and possibly not such a vast difference in our 
being as is expected. But a: short time there will give more in- 
sight than a thousand musings. We shall see Him by whose 
inexpressible love and mercy we get there, and all whom we 
loved, and all the lovable. I can sympathize with you now 
more fully than I did before. I work with as much vigor as 
I can, and mean to do so till the change comes ; but the pros- 
pect of a home is all dispelled." 



RECALL-VOYAGE TO INDIA. m 

once more in the "Pioneer," the "Lady Nyassa" in 
tow, meaning to unscrew the latter, carry her past 
the Murchison Falls, and launch her on the lake. 
All his former experience was dwarfed in horror on 
this voyage. The banks, so flourishing eighteen 
months before, were now a desert, the few survivors 
cowering in the river-swamps. In the morning the 
paddles had to be cleared of corpses. "The corpses 
we saw floating down the river were only a remnant 
of those that had perished, whom their friends from 
weakness could not bury, nor the over-gorged croco- 
diles devour." They visited the Bishop's grave, and 
found the relics of the Mission. Dickenson, Scuda- 
more, and Thornton were dead since the higher land 
of Magomero had been abandoned. What wonder 
that Dr. Kirk and Charles Livingstone broke down 
now and had to be sent home, though not till the 
former had seen Livingstone through a bad attack 
of dysentery! He had, however, been joined by 
Young, from the "Gorgon," and Rae, the engineer, 
still held out — the last Englishman left of the origi- 
nal expedition. But nothing could daunt the old 
hero, who prepared to unscrew the "Lady Nyassa" 
and carry her sections past the falls, there to be put 
together again. He had prepared the first part of 
the road over which she was to be carried when a 
despatch recalling the expedition was received from 
Lord Russell. 

For this he was not unprepared. The local Portu- 



in THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

guese authorities had roused their government, wha 
had been pressing at the English Foreign Office their 
objections to his action in Africa. The failure of 
the Universities Mission probably hastened Lord 
Russell's action. "The Government has behaved 
well to us throughout," Livingstone wrote, "and I 
feel thankful to them for enabling us to carry on the 
experiments But the Portuguese dogged our foot- 
steps, and, as is generally understood, with the ap- 
probation of their home government, neutralized our 
labors." To Mr. Waller he wrote: 'T don't know 
whether I am to go on the shelf or not. If I do, I 
make Africa that shelf. If the Tady Nyassa' is 
well sold, I shall manage." He had spent £6,000 on 
her — more than half of all he had earned by his 
writings. It was, however, impossible to get the 
"Pioneer" down before December, when she was to 
be handed back to the Government ; so in the mean- 
time he resolved on another exploring trip. He 
fixed on the north-northwest, in order to satisfy him- 
self whether any large river flowed into Nyassa from 
Central Africa; and hoped to get as far as Lake 
Bemba, not yet reached by any white man, and to get 
information as to the great slave-route to the west 
coast, which he had already crossed to the east of 
Lake Nyassa.* 

*At no previous time had Dr. Livingstone been under 
greater discouragements than now. The Expedition had been 
recalled; his heart had not recovered from the desolation 



RECALL— VOYAGE TO INDIA. 173 

He started on August 15th with one European 
companion and five Makololo, whom he held to be 
worth fifty of any of the eastern tribes. The men of 
that tribe whom he had brought from Central Africa 
had formed a strong settlement, with others who had 
joined them, near the Murchison Falls, and having 
guns, were unmolested by the slave-traders. These 

caused by the death of the Bishop and his brethren, as well 
as the Helmores in the Makololo country, and still more by 
the removal of Mrs. Livingstone, and the thought of his moth- 
erless children ; the most heart-rending scenes had been wit- 
nessed everywhere in regions that a short time ago had been 
so bright; all his efforts to do good had been turned to evil, 
every new path he had opened having been seized as it were 
by the devil and turned to the most diabolical ends ; his coun- 
trymen were nearly all away from him; the most depressing 
of diseases had produced its natural effect ; he had had wor- 
ries, delays, and disappointments about ships and boats of the 
most harassing kind, and now the "Lady Nyassa" could 
not be floated in the waters of which he had fondly hoped 
to see her the angel and the queen. It is hardly possible to 
exaggerate the noble quality of the heart that, undeterred by 
all these troubles, resolved to take this last chance of explor- 
ing the banks of Nyassa, although it could only be by the 
weary process of trudge, trudge, trudging; although hunger, 
if not starvation, blocked the path, and fever and dysentery 
flitted around it like imps of darkness ; although tribes, de- 
moralized by the slave-trade, might at any moment put an 
end to him and his enterprise — not to speak of the ordinary 
risks of travel, the difficulty of finding guides, the liability to 
bodily hurt, the scarcity of food, the perils from wild beasts 
by night and by day — risks which no ordinary traveller could 
think of lightly, but which in Livingstone's journeys drop out 
of sight, because they are so overtopped and dwarfed by 
risks that ordinary travellers never know. 



lU THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

had been driven back from another tract of country 
through which they now passed. Livingstone found 
the people friendly, but suspicious. He was re- 
freshed on this part of the journey by hearing again 
the merry laugh of the women, "the sound of which 
does me good." It proved to be a wondrously fertile 
country, with occasional scenes of great beauty ; one, 
the Vale of Goa, reminding him of the Thames at 
Richmond. On September 5th their course was 
altered to the northeast, and after touching Lake 
Nyassa again, they entered regions devastated by the 
slave-trade. Following the great slave-route over 
fine hill country, where the bracing air revived the 
Englishmen and prostrated their companions, they 
had to turn back on September 30th, when only ten 
days' march from an unexplored lake called Bemba.* 
The temptation to go on was great, but Livingstone 
knew that there would be no more wages for his men 
after December, so reluctantly turned back. 

They reached the ships on November ist, having 
marched seven hundred and sixty miles in fifty-five 
travelling days, an average of twelve miles a day. 

The flood did not come for nearly two months, but 
what tried Livingstone far more than the delay was 
a letter from the new Bishop, Tozer, informing him 
that the Mission w^as to be withdrawn to Zanzibar. 

*The reader will see that Livingstone subsequently discov- 
ered this lake, which is Bangweolo ; his heart lies buried at 
Ilala, on its southern shore. 



RECALL-VOYAGE TO INDIA. 175 

"I hope, dear Bishop," he wrote, ''you will not deem 
me impertinent in writing to you with a sore heart. 
If you go, the best hopes for this wretched, down- 
trodden people disappear, and I again entreat you 
â– 'from the bottom of my heart to reconsider the mat- 
ter." The Bishop, however, persisted. Livingstone 
felt this far more than his own recall — ''could hardly 
write of it" — "felt more inclined to sit down and 
cry." All he could do was to arrange that some 
thirty children, who seemed likely to be abandoned, 
should be sent to the Cape. He took them down to 
the coast in the "Pioneer," from whence, under Mr. 
Waller's care, they were forwarded to the Cape.* 

On February 13th they reached the coast, and the 
"Pioneer" was handed over to the captain of H.M.S. 
"Orestes." The "Ariel," her consort, took the 
"Lady Nyassa" in tow for Mozambique. Captain 
Chapman offered Livingstone a berth on the "Ariel," 
but he chose to remain in the "Lady Nyassa," with 
the three English sailors and the native crew. On 

*And thus, for Livingstone's life-time, ended the Universi- 
ties Mission to Central Africa, with all the hopes which its 
bright dawn had inspired, that the great Church of England 
would bend its strength against the curse of Africa, and sweep 
it from the face of the earth. Writing to Sir Thomas Maclear, 
he said that he felt this much more than his own recall. No 
mission had ever had such bright prospects; notwithstanding 
all that had been said against it, he stood by the climate as 
firmly as ever, and if he were only young, he would go him- 
self and plant the gospel there. It would be done one day 
without fail, though he might not live to see it. 



176 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

the 15 th they were caught in a hurricane, which 
drove the "Ariel" back straight on the "Lady 
Nyassa," while the towing hawser got round her 
screw and stopped it. "We on the little vessel saw 
no chance of escape, but she glided past our bow, and 
we breathed fi;eely again. We had now an oppor- 
tunity of witnessing man-of-war seamanship. Cap- 
tain Chapman, though his engines were disabled, did 
not think of abandoning us in the heavy gale, but 
crossed the bows of the 'Lady Nyassa' again and 
again, dropping a cask with a line to give us another 
hawser. We might never have picked it up had not 
a Krooman jumped overboard and fastened a second 
line to the cask. We passed a terrible night, but the 
Tady Nyassa' did wonderfully well, rising like a 
little duck over the foaming waves. Captain Chap- 
man and his officers pronounced her the finest little 
sea-boat they had ever seen." 

What was to be done now ? The "Lady Nyassa" 
must be sold. The Portuguese wished to buy her, 
but this Livingstone would not hear of, as she would 
have been used as a slaver. The nearest possible 
market was Bombay, twenty-five hundred miles off 
across the Indian Ocean. He had been captain and 
pilot on the Zambesi and Shire for years, why not on 
the open sea? Accordingly, on April 30th, he 
started for Bombay with fourteen tons of coal on 
board, himself for captain and pilot, the three Eng- 
lish sailors, seven native men, and two boys, who 



RECALL— VOYAGE TO INDIA. 177 

proved themselves capital sailors, though they never 
had seen the sea till now. 

It was an exploit worthy of the man. Spite of 
squalls and calms, for they wxre obliged to keep most 
of their coal for the Indian coast, he ran into the 
harbor of Bombay on June 13, 1864. 'The vessel 
was so small that no one noticed our arrival.'* 

After rewarding and providing for his crew he 

started for England, and arrived at Charing Cross 

Station on July 21st.* 

*Looking back on the work of the last six years, while 
deeply grieved that the great object of the Expedition had not 
been achieved, Dr. Livingstone was able to point to some 
important results : 

1. The discovery of the Kongone harbor, and the ascer- 
taining of the condition of the Zambesi River, and its fitness 
for navigation. 

2. The ascertaining of the capacity of the soil. It was found 
to be admirably adapted for indigo and cotton, as well as 
tobacco, castor-oil, and sugar. Its great fertility was shown 
by its gigantic grasses, and abundant crops of corn and maize. 

But every fine feature of the country was bathed in gloom 
by the slave-trade. The image left in Dr. Livingstone's mind 
was not that of the rich, sunny, luxuriant country, but that 
of the woe and wretchedness of the people. The real service 
of the Expedition was. that it had exposed slavery at its 
fountain-head, and in all its phases. First, there was the in- 
ternal slave-trade between hostile native tribes. Then, there 
were the slave-traders from the coast, Arabs, or half-caste 
Portuguese, for whom natives were encouraged to collect 
slaves by all the horrible means of marauding and murder. 
And further, there were the parties sent out from Portuguese 
and Arab coast towns, with cloth and beads, muskets and am- 
munition. The destructive and murderous effects of the last 
were the climax of the system. 



CHAPTER XL 

SECOND VISIT HOME. 
1864-650 

On the afternoon of July 21, 1864, Livingstone 
reached the Tavistock Hotel, Covent Garden, and 
after a hasty dinner, walked down to call on Sir R. 
Murchison. It was the last year of Lord Palmer- 
ston's last administration, and the evening of one of 
the remarkable weekly gatherings in Piccadilly, 
which made his Government so strong socially, and 
did so much to rally to him every notable English- 
man outside of politics. ''Sir Roderick," the Jour- 
nal notes, "took me off with him, just as I was, to 
Lady Palmerston's reception. My lady very gra- 
cious. Gave me tea herself. Lord Palmerston look- 
ing very well. Had two conversations with him 
about the slave-trade. Sir Roderick says he is more 
intent on maintaining his policy on that than on any 
other thing. And so is she. A wonderfully fine, 
matronly lady." He found all London again at his 
feet, bought a dress suit, and stayed for a week, find- 
ing Lord Russell at the Foreign Office cold, and Mr. 
Layard "warm and frank." 

On August 1st he was with his mother and chil- 
178 



SECOND VISIT HOME. 179 

dren at Hamilton, all but his eldest, Robert, a boy of 
eighteen, with a ''deal of the vagabond nature of his 
father in him." He had got out to Natal, in the 
hope of reaching his father ; but, failing in that, had 
crossed to America and enlisted in the Federal 
Army. After seeing some hard service, he was 
taken prisoner, badly wounded, and, dying in hospi- 
tal, was buried in the National Cemetery at Gettys- 
burg, opened by President Lincoln with the speech 
which rivals Pericles' funeral oration. "Heard the 
sad news that Robert is in the American army," the 
Journal notes at this time.* 

After a visit to the Duke of Argyll at Inverary — 
"the most delightful I ever paid" — and a day in 
Ulva, where he found the home his grandfather lived 

*"2d August. — Reached Hamilton. Mother did not know me 
at first. Anna Mary, a nice sprightly child, told me that she 
preferred Garibaldi buttons on her dress, as I walked down 
to Dr. Loudon to thank him for his kindness to my mother. 

"3d August. — Agnes, Oswald, and Thomas came. I did not 
recognize Tom, he has grown so much. Has been poorly a 
long v/hile; congestion of the kidney, it is said. Agnes quite 
tall, and Anna Mary a nice little girl." 

The next few days were spent with his family, and in visits 
to the neighborhood. He had a consultation with Professor 
Syme as to a surgical operation recommended for an ailment 
that had troubled him ever since his first great journey; he 
was strongly urged to have the operation performed, and prob- 
ably it would have been better if he had ; but he finally declined, 
partly because an old medical friend was against it, but chiefly, 
as he told Sir Roderick, because the matter would get into the 
liewspapers, and he did not like the public to be speaking of 
his infjrmiti?§. 



180 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

In — ^'Uahm, or the Cave, a sheltered spot with basal- 
tic rocks jutting out of the ground below the cave ; 
the walls of the house remain, and the corn and 
potato patches are green, but no one lives there" — he 
came south to visit his old African comrade, Mr. 
Webb, the great hunter, at Newstead Abbey. Here, 
with his daughter Agnes, he remained for eight 
months. At first he refused his host's proposal that 
he should occupy the Sussex tower in the Abbey, as 
he must get to work on his book. Where could he 
work at it better, Mr. and Mrs. Webb urged, and 
prevailed. So there he stayed till it was finished, in 
''the Livingstone room," his host and hostess, with 
his daughter Agnes, helping to copy. On April 15, 
1865, he called Agnes to write the ''Finis" at the end 
of the MS., and on the 25th left Newstead. "Parted 
with our good friends, the Webbs. And may God 
bless and reward them and their family," runs the 
Journal. 

He could now turn to his plans for the future, and 
did so with his usual single-mindedness. He had 
given a lecture to the British Association at Bath in 
the autumn of 1864, in which he had thrown down 
the gauntlet to the Portuguese. It had been taken 
up by a Senhor Lacerda, in the official journal of 
Portugal, in a series of articles republished in Eng- 
land by the Portuguese Government. Livingstone's 
object, it urged, under the pretext of spreading the 
Word of God and the advancement of geography 



SECOND VISIT HOME. 181 

and natural science, was really to cause the loss of 
the commerce of the interior to the Portuguese, and 
in the end that of their provinces. "It was obvi- 
ous," the official writer summed up, "from what he 
declared as his own intentions, that such men ought 
to be efficiently watched, and their audacious and 
mischievous actions restrained.'" His new book, 
Livingstone w^ell knew, would rouse even deeper hos- 
tility, and his future work must be outside Portu- 
guese territory. 

Sir Roderick, on behalf of the Geographical Soci- 
ety, was anxious that he should go out purely as an 
explorer, to settle finally the question of the water- 
sheds of South Africa, beginning at the Rovuma, 
and so getting to Lake Tanganyika. If he could 
then get to the west and come out on that coast, or 
could reach the White Nile to the north, he "would 
bring back an unrivaled reputation, and have settled 
all the disputes now pending." ''Answered Sir 
Roderick about going out," the Journal notes. 
"Said I could only feel in the way of duty by work- 
ing as a missionary." Then came an informal mes- 
sage from Lord Palmerston, to inquire w^hat the 
Government could do for him. 'Tree access to the 
highlands beyond by the Zambesi and Shire, secured 
by treaty with Portugal," was his answer. The 
Premier had made the inquiry with a view^ to pro- 
pose a pension.* 

*It was at this time that Mr. Hayward, Q.C., while on a 



182 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

In May, while his preparations were going on, he 
was before a Committee of the House of Commons 
on the West Coast of Africa, where he protested 
vigorously against Britain's ''monstrous mistake as 
to missionaries." ''I told the Committee," he wrote 
to Webb, ''that I had heard people say that Chris- 
tianity made the blacks worse, but did not agree with 
them. I might have said it was 'rot'; and truly I 
can stand a good deal of bosh, but to tell me that 
Christianity makes people worse — Ugh! Tell that 
to the young trouts. You know on what side I am, 
and I shall stand to my side, old Pam fashion, 
through thick and thin. I don't agree with all my 
side say and do. I won't justify many things, but 
for the great cause of human progress I am heart 
and soul, and so are you."* 

visit to Newstead, brought an informal message from Lord 
Palmerston, who wished to know what he could do- for Liv- 
ingstone. Had Livingstone been a vain man, wishing a handle 
to his name, or had he even been bent on getting what would 
be reasonable in the way of salary for himself, or of allow- 
ance for his children, now was his chance of accomplishing 
his object. But so single-hearted was he in his philanthropy 
that such thoughts did not so much as enter his mind; there 
was one thing, and one only, which he wished Lord Palmer- 
ston to secure — free access to the highlands, by the Zambesi 
and Shire, to be made good by a treaty with Portugal. It is 
satisfactory to record that the Foreign Office has at last made 
arrangements to this effect. 

*Dr. Livingstone was asked at this time to attend a public 
meeting on behalf of American freedom. It was not in his 
power to go, but, in apologizing, he was at pains to express 



SECOND VISIT HOME. 183 

In June he got a telegram announcing his mother's 
death. He had only left her a few days, and was at 
Oxford lecturing. He hurried back to the funeral. 
"In 1858 she said to me she would like one of her 
laddies to lay her head in the grave. It so happened 
I was there to pay the last tribute to a dear, good 
mother." 

A few days later he was persuaded with difficulty 
to go to the examination of the school where his son 
Oswell was. He had to speak to the boys, and his 

his opinion on the capacity of the negro, in connection with 
what was going on in the United States : 

*'Our kinsmen across the Atlantic deserve our warmest 
sympathy. They have passed, and are passing, through trials, 
and are encompassed with difficulties which completely dwarf 
those of our Irish famine, and not the least of them is the 
question, what to do with those freedmen for whose existence 
as slaves in America our own forefathers have so much to 
answer. The introduction of a degraded race from a barba- 
rous country was a gigantic evil, and if the race cannot be ele- 
vated, an evil beyond remedy. Millions can neither be amalga- 
mated nor transported, and the presence of degradation is a 
contagion which propagates itself among the more civilized. 
But I have no fears as to the mental and moral capacity of 
the Africans for civilization and upward progress. We who 
suppose ourselves to have vaulted at one bound to the extreme 
of civilization, and smack our lips so loudly over our high 
elevation, may find it difficult to realize the debasement to 
which slavery has sunk those men, or to appreciate what, in 
the discipline of the sad school of bondage, is in a state of 
freedom real and substantial progress. But I, who have been 
intimate with Africans who have never been defiled by the 
slave-trade, believe them to be capable of holding an honorable 
rank in the family of man," 



184 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

last words to them — indeed the last words he ever 
spoke in Scotland publicly — were, 'Tear God, and 
work hard." 

His arrangements with the Government and the 
Geographical Society were finished early in August. 
Each of them gave him £500, to which a private 
friend added £1,000. He was continued as Consul, 
but without salary. Shabby terms enough, as he 
knew well himself, for £2,000 would be quite insuffi- 
cient to pay his, necessary expenses. But he was too 
proud to remonstrate, and meant to provide the defi- 
ciency by selling the "Lady Nyassa" at Bombay. 

Dr. Livingstone's last weeks in England were 
passed under the roof of the late Rev. Dr. Hamilton, 
author of ''Life in Earnest," and could hardly have 
been passed in a more congenial home. Natives of 
the same part of Scotland, nearly of an age, and re- 
sembling each other much in taste and character, the 
two men drew greatly to each other. The same 
Puritan faith lay at the basis of their religious char- 
acter, with all its stability and firmness. But above 
all, they had put on charity, which is the bond of 
perfectness. In Natural History, too, they had an 
equal enthusiasm. In Dr. Hamilton, Livingstone 
found what he missed in many orthodox men. On 
the evening of his last Sunday, he was prevailed on 
to give an address in Dr. Hamilton's church, after 
having in the morning received the Communion with 
the congregation. In his address he vindicated his 



SECOND VISIT HOME. 185 

character as a missionary, and declared that it was 
as much as ever his great object to proclaim the love 
of Christ, which they had been commemorating that 
day. His prayers made a deep impression ; they were 
like the communings of a child with his father. At 
the railway station, the last Scotch hands grasped 
by him were those of Dr. and Mrs. Hamilton. The 
news of Dr. Hamilton's death was received by Liv- 
ingstone a few years after, in the heart of Africa, 
with no small emotion. Their next meeting was in 
the better land. 

On August nth he took leave at the Foreign 
Office; on the next day dined at Wimbledon with 
Mr. Murray, his publisher, and started on the 15th 
to place his daughter Agnes at a school in France. 
"Mr. and Mrs. Oswell came up to say farewell," the 
Journal records. ''He offers to go over to Paris at 
any time to bring Agnes home, or do anything that 
a father would. Dr. Kirk and Mr. Waller go down 
to Folkstone to take leave of us there. This is very 
kind. The Lord puts it into their hearts to show 
kindness, and blessed be His Name." 

He left Agnes at her school in Paris, and em- 
barked at Marseilles for Bombay on August 19th, 
reaching it on September nth. 



CHAPTER XII. 

LAKES MOERO^ BANGWEOLO^ AND TANGANYIKA. 
1865-71. 

The object for which Dr. Livingstone set out on 
his third and last great African journey is thus 
stated in the preface to 'The Zambesi and its Tribu- 
taries :" "Our Government have supported the pro- 
posal of the Royal Geographical Society made by my 
friend Sir Roderick Murchison, and have united 
with that body to aid me in another attempt to open 
Africa to civilizing influences, and a valued private 
friend has given a thousand pounds for the same 
object. I propose to go inland, north of the terri- 
tory which the Portuguese in Europe claim, and en- 
deavor to commence that system on the East which 
has been so eminently successful on the West Coast : 
a system combining the repressive efforts of Her 
Majesty's cruisers with lawful trade and Christian 
missions — the moral and material results of which 
have been so gratifying. I hope to ascend the Ro- 
vuma, or some other river north of Cape Delgado, 
and, in addition to my other work, shall strive, by 
passing along the northern end of Lake Nyassa, and 
round the southern end of Lake Tanganyika, to 
ascertain the watershed of that part of Africa.'* 

186 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 187 

The first part of the scheme was his own, the 
second he had been urged to undertake by the Geo- 
graphical Society. The sums in aid contributed 
by Government and the Geographical Society were 
only £500 each; but it was not thought that the 
work would occupy a long time. 

Livingstone reached Bombay in September, 1865, 
was cordially welcomed, and became the guest of Sir 
Bartle Frere, the Governor.* He had come to sell 
the *'Lady Nyassa" and prepare for his x^frican cam- 
paign. He had to accept £2,600 for his steamer, less 
than half she had cost him, and lost the whole by the 
failure of the Indian bank in which he deposited it. 
**The whole of the money she cost was dedicated to 
the great cause for which she was built — we are not 
responsible for results," was his comment. He ex- 
plored the caves at Salsette, in a party under the 
guidance of Mr. A. Brown, who wrote: ''Living- 
stone's almost boyish enjoyment of the whole thing 
impressed me greatly." He lectured at Poona and 
Bombay, and roused a deep interest in missionary 

. *From a Bombay gentleman who was his fellow-traveller to 
India a little anecdote has casually come to our knowledge 
illustrating the unobtrusiveness of Livingstone — his dislike 
to be made a lion of. At the tahle-d'hote of the hotel in Mar- 
seilles, where some Bombay merchants were sitting, the con 
versation turned on Africa in connection with ivory — an 
extensive article of trade in Bombay. One friend dropped the 
remark, "I wonder where that old chap Livingstone is now." 
To his surprise and discomfiture, a voice replied, "Here he is 
They were fast friends all through the voyage that followed 



18^ THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

work, though sHghtly scandalizing his clerical breth- 
ren by his costume. ''He dressed more like a post- 
captain or admiral," one of them wrote. And again : 
"At the communion on Sunday (he sat on Dr. Wil- 
son's right hand) he wore a blue surtout with Gov- 
ernment gilt buttons, shepherd tartan trousers, and a 
gold band round his cap." 

By Sir Bartle Frere's advice he visited Nassick^ 
the Government school for Africans, from which he 
got nine volunteers. He also accepted a draft of 
sepoys from the Marine Battalion. With these he 
sailed for Zanzibar in January, 1866, in the "Thule," 
a steamer which he was to present to the Sultan, with 
a letter from Sir Bartle Frere, as a pleasure-yacht. 
"For a pleasure-yacht she is the most incorrigible 
roller ever known. The whole 2,000 miles has been 
an everlasting see-saw, shuggy-shoo, enough to tire 
a chemist — the most patient of all animals," he wrote 
from Zanzibar, where he had to wait for two months 
for H.M.S. "Penguin," which was to take him to 
the Rovuma. The Sultan was cordial during his 
stay, and gave him a firman to all his subjects trad- 
ing in the interior, a well-meant sanction, which in 
the end, however, worked more harm than good. 

Zanzibar life was very monotonous — "It is the 
old, old way of living — eating, drinking, sleeping; 
sleeping, drinking, eating. Getting fat; slaving- 
dhows com.ing and slaving-dhows going away; bad 
smells ; and kindly looks from English folks to each 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 189 

Other." The sight of slaves in the Zanzibar market, 
and the recognition of some who had been brought 
from Nyassa, did not enhven his visit, though it un- 
doubtedly confirmed his purpose and quickened his 
efforts to aim another blow at the accursed trade. 
Always thinking of what would benefit Africa, he 
v/rites to Sir Thomas Maclear urging very strongly 
the starting of a line of steamers between the Cape, 
Zanzibar and Bombay : "It w^ould be a most profita- 
ble one, and would do great good, besides, in eating 
out the trade in slaves." 

The 'Tenguin" came at last to pick him up, and 
landed him and his company on the Rovuma toward 
the end of March. They consisted of thirteen sepoys, 
ten Johanna men, nine Nassick boys, and two Shu- 
panga and two Waiyau men, of whom Susi had been 
a wood-cutter on the 'Tioneer," and Chumah, one of 
the slaves rescued in 1861. It was well that these 
two were amongst them, as the rest proved quite 
unfit for the v/ork. He had no Englishman with 
him, but started for the long tramp in high spirits. 
**The mere animal pleasure of travelling in a wild 
unexplored country i? very great . . . the body 
soon becomes well knit, the muscles grow as hard as 
board; the limbs seem to have no fat, and there is 
no dyspepsia." So the Journal runs; and he is also 
full of interest as to how^ the camels, tame buffaloes, 
mules, and donkeys, wdiich he had brought from 
India at a large cost, would resist the tsetse-fly and 



190 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

stand the African climate. The poodle Chitanpe 
completes his live stock, a most engaging beast, thor- 
oughly alive to the importance of the expedition and 
his own duty, running up and down the line of 
march and chasing away the pariah dogs who dared 
to approach, and keeping his master's tent jealously 
at night. Poor faithful Chitanpe, after the African 
sun had burnt his coat a brown red, was drowned 
in crossing an overflowed river in the following Jan- 
uary, 1867 — after a mile's wading his master in- 
quired for him and he was gone. He swam as long 
as he could, and then the men "supposed he must 
have just sunk." No small addition to Livingstone's 
trials, which were thick enough by that time. The 
sepoys proved complete failures, sulky, and brutal to 
the animals, and only able to march five miles a day. 
The Johanna men were little better, and thieves — 
even the Nassick boys were troublesome. With such 
a band the march dragged heavily on, till in July, 
in disgust at their laziness and cruelty to the animals, 
he sent the sepoys back to the coast. They had now 
reached a splendid district, three thousand four hun- 
dred and forty feet above the sea, and the watershed 
from which the Rovuma ran down to the coast, and 
the smaller streams westward to Lake Nyassa.* As 

*This question of the watershed had fascinated his mind, 
for he had a strong impression that the real sources of the 
Nile were far higher than any previous traveller had supposed 
—far higher than Lake Victoria Nyanza, and that it would be 
a service to religion as well ^^^ science to discover the fotm- 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 191 

good a site for a settlement this plateau, Livingstone 
thought, as Magomero, but nearly depopulated by 
the slave-trade. He descended westward, reaching 
Lake Nyassa on August 8th, and bathing in its 
bright waters felt again "quite exhilarated." "All 
the Arabs fly me," he notes ; and being thus unable 
to cross the lake, as they owned all the boats, he 
marched round the southern end. Here, about the 
outflow of the Shire, he found matters rather worse 
than he had left them two years before, and remon- 
strated with some of the chiefs on the reckless inter- 
tribal raids, fostered by the Arabs, which were ruin- 
ing their country. 

Now, in September, the Johanna men, headed by 
Musa, an old sailor on the "Lady Nyassa," scared 
by the Arabs' lying account of the dangers ahead, 
deserted and returned to Zanzibar. There they 

tains of the stream on whose bosom, in the dawn of Hebrew 
history, Moses had floated in his ark of bulrushes. A strong 
impression lurked in his mind that if he should only solve 
that old problem he would acquire such influence that new 
f weight would be given to his pleadings for Africa. But what- 
ever might be his views or aims, it was ordained that in the 
wanderings of his last years he should bring within the 
sympathies of the Christian world many a poor tribe otherwise 
unknown ; that he should witness sights, surpassing all he had 
ever seen before of the inhumanity and horrors of the slave- 
traffic — sights that harrowed his inmost soul ; and that when his 
final appeal to his countrymen on behalf of its victims came, 
not from his living voice but from his tomb, it should gather 
from a thousand touching associations a thrilling power that 
would rouse the world, and fixially root out the accursed thing. 



192 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

spread a circumstantial story of Livingstone's death, 
which was credited and forwarded to England. 
Young and Horace V^aller, who had known Musa 
for a liar on the Shire, refused to believe, and were 
supported by Sir R. Murchison. At his instance the 
Geographical Society sent out a search-expedition 
under Young. In eight months Young returned 
from the Shire and Lake Nyassa with the news that 
the Doctor had passed on toward the northwest. 
Young had in that short time carried the "Search" 
in pieces past the Murchison Cataracts and launched 
her on Lake Nyassa, by the splendid help of the 
Makololo whom Livingstone had planted on the 
Shire banks, and who were now masters in the dis- 
trict 

Meantime Livingstone was forcing his way on 
slowly far beyond to the northwest. The country 
proved miserably poor, with baleful traces of the 
Arabs everywhere. The villages were depopulated 
and the people starving. He had now to hire car- 
riers, having so few men left, and characteristically 
allowed them to overcharge him, noting in his Jour-( 
nal, "Is not this what is meant by 'Blessed is he that, 
considereth the poor and needy' ? These poor have 
much good in them." As he pushed on indomitably 
toward Lake Tanganyika he was reduced to a diet of 
African maize with goat's milk. For some days in 
December he was too ill to march. On Christmas 
Day his goats were stolen, and he had no more milk 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA, 193 

— his one luxury. "Took my belt up three holes to 
relieve hunger/' is the note in the Journal. But 
worse was in store in the early new year. January 
l^th, — "Poor poodle Chitanpe drowned. We had to 
cross a marsh a mile wide and waist-deep. I went 
over first, and forgot to give directions about the 
dog. All were too much engaged in keeping their 
balance to notice that he swam among them till he 
died." On January 20, 1867, his medicine-chest was 
stolen. "Felt as if I had received my death sen- 
tence."* February ist. — "We got a cow yesterday. 
I am to get milk to-morrow." February lyth. — 
"Too ill with rheumatic fever to have service. The 
first attack I have ever had with no medicine. The 
Lord healeth His people." March loth. — "111 of 
fever still. Can scarcely keep up, though formerly 
always first in the line. I have singing in my ears, 
and can scarcely hear the tick of the chronometers." 
In April he reached the shores of Lake Liemba, 
which proved to be the southern end of Lake Tan- 
ganyika; the country was lovely and peaceful, but, 
hearing of war in front, he turned south. His object 
was to reach Lake Moero, which he heard of in this 
district, and which might prove the solution of his 

*The loss of the medicine-box was probably the beginning of 
the end; his system lost the wonderful power of recovery 
which it had hitherto shown ; and other ailments — in the lungs, 
the feet, and the bowels, that might have been kept under in 
a more vigorous state of general health, began hereafter to 
prevail against him. 



194 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

doubts as to the watershed of the Nile and Congo. 
In June he came on the Ubungu, "a. tribe of gentle- 
men, universally polite, governed they are and very 
well," but how exactly he could not satisfy himself; 
certainly not by fear. In August came three months' 
delay through illness and helplessness. At last, in 
November, an Arab, Mohamed Mogharib, arrived, 
a slave-trader, but a favorable specimen of the class, 
who acknowledged the Sultan's firman and offered 
escort, which Livingstone accepted. Mohamed's 
first gift was a meal of vermicelli, oil, and honey. 
"I had not tasted sugar and honey for two years,'* 
the Journal notes. On November 8, 1867, they 
reached Lake Moero. 

Here he spent some months exploring, when not 
too ill, and found Lake Moero. forty miles wide. To 
the south, however, he hears of another lake, Bang- 
weolo, even larger. This must be explored. In 
vain Mohamed Bogharib remonstrated, and his men, 
all but five, refused to go on with him.* Though 

*They had been considerably demoralized by contact with 
the Arab trader and his slave-gang. Dr. Livingstone took 
this rebellion with wonderful placidity, for in his own mind he 
could not greatly blame them. It was no wonder they were 
tired of the everlasting tramping, for he was sick of it him- 
self. He reaped the fruit of his mildness by the men coming 
back to him, on his return from the lake, and offering their 
services. It cannot be said of him that he was not disposed 
to make any allowance for human weakness. When recording 
a fault, and how he dealt with it, he often adds, "conscious- 
ness of my own defects makes me lenient," *'I also have my 
weaknesses." 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 195 

without letters for two years, and longing to turn 
northward to Ujiji on Lake Tanganyika, where he 
might get letters and supplies, he will still go for- 
ward. And so he trudges on, in constant pain and 
trouble, to the south. On June 25, 1868, he comes 
across a solitary grave in a forest clearing, over 
which he muses : "I have nothing to do but to wait 
till He who is over all decides w^here I have to lay me 
down and die. Poor Mary lies on Shupanga brae, 
*and beeks foment the sun.' " On July i8th he was 
rewarded for his toil by the sight of Lake Bang- 
weolo, "a splendid piece of water." August 2gth. — 
^'Thanks for what I have discovered. There is still 
much to do, and if life and protection be granted, I 
shall make a complete thing of it." So the old hero 
writes, and starts again on his northern tramp to 
make as complete a thing of it as he can. Again he 
falls in with the Arab traders, and marches with 
them painfully, sore in soul as well as body. 

In the neighborhood of Lake Moero they reach 
the town of Casembe, a powerful and friendly chief, 
who was threatened by a marauding army of Mazitu 
from the south. The Arabs sided with the invaders, 
and were driven north, Livingstone following with 
his five faithful men. 

In November they once more came across Mo- 
hamed Bogharib, on his way to Ujiji, Livingstone's 
runaways with him. They express penitence and he 
takes them back, with the remark, 'T have faults 



196 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

myself." In the last days of November Mohamed's 
caravan was attacked by hostile natives. Living- 
stone sat at his tent-door armed, to defend his bag- 
gage if necessary, and noting the courage of the 
attacking party. "V. C. men truly many of them," 
he writes, as he sees them rush to carry off their 
wounded under heavy fire. New Year's Day, 1869, 
finds him still on his way to Ujiji, too ill to march, 
and carried in a rude litter."^ In February he reaches 
the western shore of Lake Tanganyika, and crosses 
to Ujiji on the 14th, to find it a den of thieves, all 
his supplies plundered, and only two old letters. He 
had still medicines and stores at Unyanyembe, thir- 

*New Year's Day, 1869, found Livingstone laboring under 
a worse attack of illness than any he had ever had before. 
For ten weeks to come his situation was as painful as can be 
conceived. A continual cough, night and day, the most dis- 
tressing v\'eakness, inability to walk, yet the necessity of mov- 
ing on, or rather of being moved on, in a kind of litter ar- 
ranged by Mohamed Bogharib — where, with his face poorly 
protected from the sun, he was jolted up and down and 
sideways, without medicine or food for an invalid — made the 
situation sufficiently trying. His prayer was that he might 
hold out to Ujiji, where he expected to find medicines and 
stores, with the rest and shelter so necessary in his circum- 
stances. So ill was he, that he lost count of the days of the 
week and the month. 'T saw myself lying dead in the way 
to Ujiji, and all the letters I expected there — useless. When I 
think of my children, the lines ring through my head per- 
petually : 

" *I shall look into your faces, 

And listen to what you say; 
And be often very near you 

When you think I'm far away.* " 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGAN i^IKA. 197 

teen days' distance, but cannot send foi them as war 
is raging. So, writing for fresh supplies to Dr. 
Kirk at Zanzibar, he once more turned northward to 
the Manyuema country. His object was to track 
down the Lualaba, if possible, to a point which would 
decide whether it is the western arm of the Nile or 
the eastern head-water of the Congo. In July he is 
again well enough to start, and reaches Bambarre, 
the capital of the Manyuema country, on October 
25th. 

"In this journey," the Journal now sums up, "I 
have endeavored to follow with unswerving fidelity 
the line of duty. My course has been an even one, 
swerving neither to the right nor left, though my 
route has been tortuous enough. All the hardship, 
hunger, and toil were met with the full conviction 
that I was right in persevering to make a complete 
work of the exploration of the sources of the Nile. 
I had a strong presentiment during the first three 
years that I should not live through the enterprise; 
but it weakened as I came near to the end of the 
journey, and an eager desire to discover any evidence 
of the great Moses having visited these parts bound 
me — spell-bound me, I may say. I have to go down 
the Central Lualaba or Webb's Lake River, then up 
the Western or Young's Lake River to Katanga 
head-waters, and then retire — I pray that it may be 
to my native home. ... I received informa- 
tion of Mr. Young's search-trip up the Shire and 



198 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Nyassa only in February, 1870, and now take the 
first opportunity of offering hearty thanks in a de- 
spatch to H.M. Government and all concerned in 
kindly inquiring as to my fate."* 

At Bambarre he is delayed, waiting for men, for 
more than three months, noting in his enforced leis- 
ure the habits of birds and beasts, and manners and 
customs of the people, with all particulars he can 
learn as to the products and geography of the coun- 
try. Here again the baleful influence of the Arab 
traders and their open raids for slaves were daily be- 
fore him. "The strangest disease I have seen in this 
country," he writes, "seems really to be broken- 
heartedness, as it attacks only the free who are cap- 
tured, and never slaves ; it seems to be really broken- 
heartedness of which they die. Even children who 
showed wonderful endurance in keeping up with 

*0n the 2ist of September he arrived at Bambarre, in Man- 
yuema, the village of the Chief Moenekuss. He found the 
people in a state of great isolation from the rest of the world, 
with nothing to trust to but charms and idols — both being bits 
of wood. He made the acquaintance of the soko or gorilla, 
not a very social animal, for it always tries to bite off the 
ends of its captor's fingers and toes. Neither is it particu- 
larly intellectual, for its nest shows no more contrivance than 
that of a cushat dove. The curiosity of the people was very 
great, and sometimes it took an interesting direction. "Do 
people die with you?" asked two intelligent young men. 
"Have you no charm against death? Where do people go 
after death?" Livingstone spoke to them of the great Father, 
and of their prayers to Him who hears the cry of his children^" 
mi the^ thought thjs to be natwral. 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 199 

the chained gangs would sometimes hear 'the sound 
of dancing and the merry tinkle of drums in passing 
near a village;' then the memory of home and happy 
days proved too much for them, they cried and 
sobbed, the broken heart came on, and they rapidly 
sank." 

At last, on January 28, 1871, a large caravan 
under Hassani and Abed, two Arabs he had known 
at Ujiji, arrived, and on February 4th his ten men, 
who, however, brought only one letter, forty being 
lost. This first experience was ominous. They re- 
fused to go north, and on the nth struck for higher 
w^ages. ''The ten men," the Journal runs, "are all 
slaves of the Banians, who are British subjects, and 
they come with a lie in their mouth. They will not 
help me, and swear the Consul told them not to go 
forward, but to force me back. They swore so pos- 
itively that I actually looked again at Dr. Kirk's 
letter to see if his orders had been rightly understood 
by me. But for fear of pistol shot they would gain 
their own and their Banian masters' end — to baffle 
me completely. They demand an advance of $1 to 
$6 a month, though this is double freemen's pay 
at Zanzibar." 

However, he had them in order enough by Febru- 
ary 1 6th to justify a start. And now his old men — 
the deserters — who had been hanging round the 
trader's camp, waked up. "They came after me with 
inimitable effrontery, believing that though I sajcj 



200 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

I would not take them, they were so valuable I was 
only saying what I knew to be false." He would 
not take a man back this time, though probably he 
would have been better served had he done so. 

On February 25th they came on the Lualaba flow- 
ing west-southwest, causing him to write, "I have 
to suspend my judgment, so as to find it after all per- 
haps the Congo." As indeed it has proved to be, 
though he did not live to know it. 

"March ist. — The Arabs asked me to take seven 
of their people who know the new way, going to 
buy biramba." To this he consented, and advanced 
through a lovely country with frequent villages 
"standing on slopes," and as yet having no direct 
experience of the Arabs or the slave-trade. 'T hear 
the Manyuema telling each other that I am 'the 
Good One.' I have no slaves, and I owe the good 
name to the report of the Zanzibar slaves, who are 
anything but good themselves. I have seen slaves 
of these seven Arabs slap the cheeks of grown men 
who offered food for sale. It was done in sheer 
wantonness, till I threatened to thrash them if I 
saw it again." 

"March ^fh. — We came to some villages amongst 
beautiful tree-covered hills called Basilange, or Mo- 
basilange. They are very pretty standing on slopes. 
The main street lies generally east and west, to 
allow the bright sun to stream his clear hot rays 
from one end to the other, and lick up quickly the 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 201 

moisture from the frequent showers which is not 
drawn off by the slopes. A Httle veranda is often 
made in front of the doors, where the family gathers 
round a fire, and while enjoying the heat needed 
in the cold which always accompanies the first 
darting of the sun's rays across the atmosphere, 
inhale the delicious air and talk over their little 
domestic affairs. The various-shaped leaves of the 
forest all round their village are spangled with 
myriads of dewdrops. The cocks crow vigorously, 
and strut and ogle ; the kids gambol and leap on their 
dams quietly chewing the cud. Other goats make- 
believe fighting. Thrifty wives often bake their new 
clay pots in a fire made by lighting a heap of grass 
roots; they extract salt from the ashes, and so two 
birds are killed with one stone. The beauty of this 
peaceful morning scene is indescribable. Infancy 
gilds the fairy picture with its own lines, and it is 
probably never forgotten, for the young, taken up 
from slavers and treated with all philanthropic mis- 
sionary care and kindness, still revert to the period 
of infancy as the finest and fairest they have known. 
They would go back to freedom and enjoyment as 
fast as would our own sons of the soil, and be 
heedless of the charms of hard work and no play, 
which we think so much better for them if not 
for us.'' 

But the oasis is sadly limited. On the next page 
comes, 'Tn some cases we find the villages all de- 



S02 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

serted ; the people had fled at our approach in dread 
of the repetition of the outrages of Arab slaves." 

The Arabs proved a bad bargain. They knew the 
country, but their slaves were committing atrocities 
along the line which their masters vainly tried to 
conceal from him, and which he found himself pow- 
erless to prevent. 

"March 26th. — Met a party of traders with 
eighty-two captives after ten days' fighting. We 
shall be safe only when past all this bloodshed and 
murder. I am heartsore and sick of human blood." 

"March 2Sth. — The Banian slaves are again try- 
ing compulsion. It is excessively trying, and so 
many difficulties have been put in my way I doubt 
whether the Divine favor is on my side." 

However, on March 29th he reaches Nyangwe, 
the chief town of the district, in the midst of a dense 
population, and the point where he hoped to cross 
to the left bank of the Lualaba, which flows past the 
town. Here he found Abed and Hassani, two Arab 
traders, with a large slave-following. He had met 
them before, and now : ''Abed said my words against 
blood-shedding had stuck into him, and he had given 
'orders to his people to give presents to chiefs, but 
never to fight unless actually attacked." 

"March ^ist. — I went down to take a good look 
at the Lualaba here. It is narrower than it is higher 
up, but still a mighty river, at least 3,000 yards 
broad and always deep. It can never be waded at 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 203 

any point, or at any time of the year. It has many 
large islands, and at these it is about 2,000 yards, 
or one mile. The banks are steep and dark; there is 
day and a yellow-clay schist in their structure. The 
current is about two miles an hour." 

^' April 2id. — The river is said to overflow all its 
banks annually, as the Nile does farther down. I 
sounded across yesterday, and near the bank it is 9 
feet, the rest 15 feet, and one cast in the middle was 
20 feet, between the islands 12 feet, and 9 again 
inshore. It is a mighty river truly. ... I 
tried to secure a longitude by fixing a weight on the 
key of the watch, and so helping it on. I will try 
this in a quiet place to-morrow. The people all fear 
us, and they have good reason." 

He began at once to frequent the market as the 
best way of inspiring confidence. On the first occa- 
sion he notes: ''To-day the market contained over 
1,000 people, carrying earthen pots and cassava 
grass cloth, fishes and fowls; they were alarmed at 
my coming among them, and were ready to fly; 
many stood afar off in suspicion." The various 
phases of his long struggle with his slaves and their 
Arab abettors, of his attempts to win the confidence 
of the Manyuema, to get canoes and so finish his 
work, can only be indicated by a few extracts from 
the Journals. 

''April Sth. — The Ujijian slavery is an accursed 
system ; but it must be admitted that the Manyuema 



204 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

too have faults, the result of ignorance of other peo- 
ple; their isolation has made them as unconscious of 
danger in dealing with the cruel stranger as little 
dogs in the presence of lions." 

"April iSth. — Chitoka, or market to-day. I 
counted upward of 700 passing my door. With 
market-w^omen it seems to be a pleasure of life to 
haggle and joke, or laugh and cheat. Many come 
eagerly, and retire with careworn faces; many are 
beautiful and many old." 

"April 12th. — My new house is finished; a great 
comfort, for the other was foul and full of vermin." 

"April i6th. — Kahembe (a chief from left bank) 
came over and promises to bring a canoe. They all 
think that my buying a canoe means carrying war 
to the left bank, and now my Banian slaves encour- 
age the idea. 'He does not wish slaves or ivory/ 
they say, 'but a canoe in order to kill Manyuema.' 
Need it be wondered at that people who had never 
seen a white man till I popped down among them 
believe the slander?" 

"April igth. — Weary waiting, but Abed promises 
to join and trade along with me. This will render 
our party stronger, and he will not shoot people in 
my company." 

"May 3(^. — This tribe use large and very long 
spears very expertly in the long grass and forest of 
their coimtry, and are terrible fellows among them- 
selves, and when they become acquainted with fire- 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 205 

arms will be terrible to the strangers who now mur- 
der them. The Manyuema say truly, "If it were not 
for your guns, not one of you would ever return to 
your country/ My slaves have mutinied three times 
here." 

"May i6fh. — At least 3,000 people at market to- 
day, and my going among them has taken away the 
fear engendered by the slanders of slaves and trad- 
ers, for all are pleased to tell me the names of fishes 
and other things. 

"It was pleasant to be among them compared to 
being with the slaves, who are all eager to go back 
to Zanzibar. I see no hope of getting on with them. 
Abed heard them plotting my destruction. If forced 
to go on they would watch till the first difficulty 
arose with the Manyuema, then fire off their guns, 
run away, and as I could not run as fast as they, 
leave me to perish.' Abed overheard them talking 
loudly, and advised me strongly not to trust myself 
to them any more, as they would be sure to cause my 
death. He has all along been my sincere friend." 

"May iSfh. — I was on the point of disarming my 
slaves and driving them away when they relented, 
and professed to be willing to go anywhere; so, 
being eager to finish my geographical work, I said I 
would run the risk of their desertion. I cannot state 
how much I was worried by these wretched slaves, 
who did much to annoy me with the sympathy of all 
the slavery crew." 



206 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

''June 14th. — 'Hassani' (the most bigoted of the 
Moslem traders) got nine canoes and put sixty-five 
persons in three. I cannot get one." 

Now he hears news which he hopes will solve his 
difificulties. 

^'Jiine 20th. — Dugumbe arrives with large party. 
Among the first words Dugumbe said to me were, 
*Why, your own slaves are your greatest enemies! 
I will buy you a canoe, but the Banian slaves' slan- 
ders have put all them against you.' I knew that this 
was true, and that they are conscious of having the 
sympathy of the Ujijian traders, who hate to have 
me here." 

This Dugumbe was the best of the Arab traders, 
and an old acquaintance. 

''July ^th. — I offer Dugumbe $2,000, or £400, for 
ten men to replace my Banian slaves, and enable me 
to go up the Lomame to Katanga and the under- 
ground dwellings, then return and go up by Tan- 
ganyika to Ujiji, and I added I would give all the 
goods I had at Ujiji besides. He took a few days 
to consult his associates." 

"7w/y yth. — I was annoyed by a woman frequently 
beating a slave near my house, but on my reproving 
her she came and apologized. I told her to speak 
softly to her slave, as she was now the only mother 
the girl had. The slave came from Lomame, and 
was evidently a lady in her own country." 

His opinion of the Manyuema as the finest tribe 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 207 

he had met with after the Makololo, grew with ac- 
quaintance. He notes : 

''Many of the men have as finely formed heads as 
could be found in London. We English, if naked, 
would make but poor figures beside the strapping 
forms and finely shaped limbs of the Manyuema men 
and women. Their cannibalism is doubtful, but 
my observations raise grave suspicions. A Scotch 
jury would say 'Not proven.' The women are not 
guilty. 

'The Manyuema are untruthful, but very honest. 
We never lose an article by them. Fowls and goats 
are untouched, and if we lose a fowl we know that 
it has been stolen by an Arab slave." 

"July i^th. — The Banian slaves declared before 
Dugumbe that they would go to the river Lomame, 
but no farther. He spoke long to them, but they 
will not consent to go farther. When told they 
would thereby lose all their pay, they replied, 'Yes, 
but not our lives,' and walked oflf muttering, which 
is insulting to one of his rank. I then said, 'I have 
goods at Ujiji; take them all, and give me men to 
finish my work ; if not enough I will add to them, out 
do not let me be forced to return, now I am so near 
the end of my undertaking.' He said he would make 
a plan in conjunction with his associates, and report 
to me." 

The final crisis and end of the long struggle came 
at last. On July 14th the only entry is, "I am dis- 



208 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

tressed and perplexed what to do so as not to be 
foiled, but all seems against me." For Dugumbe's 
men had quarreled with the other Arabs and their 
leaders Tagamoio and Manilla, who had been before 
them on the left bank. To this they had crossed, 
though Livingstone could get no canoes, and by way 
of punishing their rivals were now harrying the vil- 
lages near the river. 

"July i^th. — The reports of guns on the other side 
of the Lualaba all the morning tell of the people of 
Dugumbe murdering those who had mixed blood" 
(the Manyuema way of making a treaty) ''with 
Manilla, o . . About 1,500 people came to mar- 
ket, though many villages of those who usually come 
to market were now in flames. It was a hot sultry 
day, and when I went into the market I saw three of 
the men who had lately come with Dugumbe. I was 
surprised to see these three with their guns, and felt 
inclined to reprove them for bringing weapons into 
the market, but I attributed it to their ignorance, and 
being very hot, I was walking away to go out of the 
market when I saw one of the fellows haggling about 
a fowl, and seizing hold of it. Before I had got 
thirty yards out, the discharge of two guns in the 
middle of the crowd told me that slaughter had 
begun; crowds dashed off from the place, threw 
down their wares in confusion, and ran. At the 
same time that the three opened fire on the mass of 
people at the upper end of the market-place, volleys 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 209 

were discharged on the panic-stricken women who 
dashed at the canoes. These, some fifty or more, 
were jammed in the creek, and the men forgot their 
paddles in the terror that seized all. The canoes 
could not be got out, for the creek was too small for 
so many; men and women wounded by the balls 
poured into them, and leaped and scrambled into the 
water, shrieking. A long line of heads in the river 
show^ed that great numbers struck out for an island 
a full mile off. In going toward it they had to put 
the left shoulder to a current of about two miles an 
hour ; if they had struck away diagonally to the op- 
posite bank the current would have aided them, and, 
though nearly three miles off, some would have 
reached land; as it was, the heads above water 
showed the long line of those who would inevitably 
perish. Shot after shot continued to be fired on the 
helpless and perishing. Some of the long line of 
heads disappeared quietly, while other poor creatures 
threw their arms on high, as if appealing to the great 
Father above, and sank. By and by all the heads dis- 
appeared ; some had turned down stream toward the 
bank and escaped. Dugumbe put people into one of 
the deserted boats to save those in the water, and 
saved twenty-one. . . . The Arabs themselves 
estimated the loss of life at between 330 and 400 
souls. The shooting party near the canoes were so 
reckless that they killed two of their own peo- 
ple. . . . My first impulse was to pistol the 



210 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

murderers, but Dugumbe protested against my get- 
ting into a blood feud, and I was thankful after- 
ward that I took his advice. . . = After the 
terrible affair in the water the party of Taga- 
moio, the chief perpetrator, continued to fire 
on the people on the other side, and to burn 
their villages. As I write I hear the wails on the 
left bank over those who are there slain, ignorant of 
their many friends now in the depths of the Lualaba. 
Oh, let Thy kingdom come ! No one will ever know 
the exact loss on this bright sultry summer morning ; 
it gave me the impression of being in hell. . . . 
Some escaped to me, and were protected. I sent men 
with our flag to save some. . . . Who could ac- 
company the people of Dugumbe and Tagamoio to 
Lomame and be free from blood-guiltiness ? . . . 
I proposed to Dugumbe to catch the murderers, and 
hang them up in the market-place, as our protest 
against these bloody deeds before the Manyuema. 
If, as he and others added, it was committed by 
Manilla's people, he would have consented, but it was 
done by Tagamoio's people, and others of this party 
headed by Dugumbe. This slaughter was peculiarly 
atrocious, inasmuch as we have heard that women 
coming to or from market have never been known to 
be molested, even when two districts are at 
war. . . . Twenty-seven villages were destroyed." 
"July i6th. — I restored upward of thirty of the 
rescued to their friends. Dugumbe seerned to ^ct in 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 311 

good faith. = , o Many of the head-men who 
have been burned out by the foray came over to me, 
and begged me to come back with them, and appoint 
new locaHties for them to settle in, but I told them I 
was so ashamed of the company in which I found 
myself that I could scarcely look a Manyuema in the 
face. They had believed I wished to kill them. 
What did they think now? I could not remain 
among bloody companions, and would flee away, I 
said, but they begged me hard to stay until they were 
again settled. . , . Dugumbe saw that by kill- 
ing the market-people he had committed a great 
error. I could not remain to see to their protection, 
and Dugumbe being the best of the whole horde, I 
advised them to make friends, and then appeal to 
him as able to restrain to some extent his infamous 
underlings. ... I see nothing for it but to go 
back to Ujiji for other men. I wished to speak 
to Tagamoio about the captive relations of the 
chiefs, but he always ran away when he saw me 
coming." 

"July lyth. — All the rest of Dugumbe's party 
offered me a share of every kind of goods they had. 
I declined everything save a little gunpowder. . . , 
It is a sore affliction, at least forty-five days in a 
straight line, equal to 300 miles, or by the turnings 
and windings 600 miles English, and all after feed- 
ing and clothing those Banian slaves for twenty-six 
months ! But it is for the best, though ; if I do not 



212 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

trust to the riff-raff of Ujiji I must wait for other 
men at least ten months there." 

'^July i8th. — The terrible scenes of man's inhu- 
manity to man brought on severe headache, which 
might have been serious had it not been relieved by 
a copious discharge of blood. I was laid up all yes- 
terday afternoon with the depression the bloodshed 
made. It filled me with unspeakable horror. 'Don't 
go away,' said the Manyuema chiefs to me; but I 
can't stay here in agony." 

"Jttly igth. — Dugumbe sent me a fine goat, a 
manch of gunpowder, a manch of fine blue beads, 
and 230 cowries to buy provisions on the way. . . . 
A few market-people appeared to-day ; formerly they 
came in crowds, about 200 in all, chiefly those who 
have not lost relatives, one very beautiful woman 
with a gun-shot wound in her upper arm, tied round 
with leaves. Seven canoes came instead of fifty ; but 
they have great tenacity and hopefulness; an old- 
established custom has much charms for them, and 
the market will again be attended if no new outrage 
is committed." 

Next day he started on the weary return journey 
to Ujiji. "I start back for Ujiji. All Dugumbe's 
people came to say good-by, and convey me a little 
way. I made a short march, for being long inactive 
it is unwise to tire oneself on the first day, as it is 
then difficult to get over the effects." Ophthalmia 
was now added to his other ailments, and this march 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 213 

back proved the most miserable of all his travels. 
The country was up, and twice he fell into an am- 
bush, escaping he hardly knew how. "I became 
weary with the constant strain of danger, and — as I 
suppose happens with soldiers on the field of battle — 
not courageous, but perfectly indifferent whether I 
were killed or not." 

''October 2^d. — At dawn off, and go to Ujiji. 
Welcomed by all the Arabs. I was now reduced to a 
skeleton, but the market being held daily, and all 
kinds of goods brought to it, I hoped that food and 
rest would soon restore me; but in the evening my 
people came and told me that Shereef had sold off 
all my goods. He had not left a single yard of calico 
out of 3,000, nor a string of beads out of 700 lbs. 
This was distressing. T had made up my mind, if I 
could not get people at Ujiji, to wait till men should 
come from the coast, but to wait in beggary was 
what I never contemplated, and I now felt miser- 
able." 

''October 24th. — I felt in my destitution as if I 
were the man who went down from Jerusalem to 
Jericho and fell among thieves ; but I could not hope 
for Priest, Levite, or Good Samaritan to come by on 
either side ; but one morning Sayd bin Majid, a good 
man, said to me, 'Now this is the first time we have 
been alone together. I have no goods, but I have 
ivory; let me, I pray you, sell some of the ivory and 
give the goods to you.' This was encouraging, but 



214 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

I said, 'Not yet, but by and by.' I had still a few 
barter goods left, which I had taken the precaution 
to deposit with Mohamed ben Salih before going to 
Manyuema, in case of returning in extreme need. 
But when my spirits were at their lowest ebb the 
Good Samaritan was close at hand, for one morn- 
ing (October 20th) Susi came running at the top of 
his speed, and gasped out, 'An Englishman! I see 
him !' and off he darted to meet him. The American 
flag at the head of a caravan told of the nationality 
of the stranger. Bales of goods, baths of tin, huge 
kettles, cooking pots, tents, etc., made me think this 
must be a luxurious traveller, and not one at his wit's 
end like me. It was Henry Moreland Stanley, the 
travelling correspondent of the New York Herald, 
sent by James Gordon Bennett at an expense of more 
than £4,000 to obtain accurate information about 
Dr. Livingstone if living, and if dead to bring home 
my bones. ... I really do feel extremely grate- 
ful, and at the same time am a little ashamed at not 
being more worthy of the generosity. Mr. Stanley 
has done his work with untiring energy; good judg- 
ment in the teeth of very serious obstacles. His 
helpmates turned out depraved blackguards, who by 
their excesses at Zanzibar and elsewhere had ruined 
their constitutions and prepared their systems to be 
fit provender for the grave." 

Livingstone stood outside his house and lifted his 
cap with the gold b^nd tQ the newcomer when Susi 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 215 

led him up in triumph, and they went in together to ' 
the hut. 

Before closing this chapter and entering on the last 
two years of Livingstone's life, which have so lively 
an interest of their own, it will be convenient to 
glance at the contributions to natural science which 
he continued to make to the very end. In doing this, 
we avail ourselves of a very tender and Christian 
tribute to the memory of his early friend, which 
Professor Owen contributed to the Quarterly Re- 
viczi), April, 1875, ^^ter the publication of Living- 
stone's "Last Journals." 

Mr. Owen appears to have been convinced by Liv- 
ingstone's reasoning and observations, that the Nile 
sources were in the Bangweolo watershed — a suppo- 
sition now ascertained to have been erroneous. But 
what chiefly attracted and delighted the great natu- 
ralist was the many interesting notices of plants and 
animals scattered over the "Last Journals." These 
Journals contain important contributions both to eco- 
nomic and physiological botany. In the former de- 
partment, Livingstone makes valuable observations 
on plants useful in the arts, such as gum-copal, 
papyrus, cotton, india-rubber, and the palm-oil tree ; 
while in the latter, his notices of "carnivorous 
plants," which catch insects that probably yield 
nourishment to the plant, of silicified wood and the 
like, show how carefully he w^atched all that throws 
light on the life and changes of plants. In zoology 



216 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

he was never weary of observing, especially when he 
found a strange-looking animal with strange habits. 
Spiders, ants, and bees of unknown varieties were 
brought to light, but the strangest of his new ac- 
quaintances were among the fishy tribes. He found 
fish that made long excursions on land, thanks to the 
wet grass through which they would wander for 
miles, thus proving that "a fish out of water" is not 
always the best symbol for a man out of his element. 
In his love of nature, and in his careful observa- 
tion of all her agencies and processes, Livingstone, 
in his last journeys, was the same as ever. He 
looked reverently on all plants and animals, and on 
the solid earth in all its aspects and forms, as the 
creatures of that same God whose love in Christ it 
was his heart's delight to proclaim. His whole life, 
so varied in its outward employments, yet so simple 
and transparent in its one great object, was ruled by 
the conviction that the God of nature and the God of 
revelation were one. While thoroughly enjoying his 
work as a naturalist, Professor Owen frankly admits 
that it was but a secondary object of his life. "Of 
his primary work the record is on high, and its im- 
perishable fruits remain on earth. The seeds of the 
Word of Life implanted lovingly, with pains and 
labor, and above all with faith ; the out-door scenes 
of the simple Sabbath service ; the testimony of Him 
to whom the worship was paid, given in terms of 
such simplicity as were fitted to the comprehension 



MOERO, BANGWEOLO, TANGANYIKA. 217 

of the dark-skinned listeners — these seeds will not 
have been scattered by him in vain. Nor have they 
been sown in words alone, but in deeds, of which 
some part of the honor will redound to his succes- 
sors. The teaching by forgiveness of injuries — by 
trust, however unworthy the trusted — ^by that con- 
fidence which imputed his own noble nature to those 
whom he would win — by the practical enforcement 
of the fact that a man might promise and perform 
— might say the thing he meant — of this teaching by 
good deeds, as well as by the words of truth and 
love, the successor who treads in the steps of Liv- 
ingstone, and accomplishes the discovery he aimed 
at, and pointed the way to, will assuredly reap the 
benefit." 



CHAPTER XIIL 

STANLEYo 
187I. 

The letter-bag marked November i, 1870, which 
had been lying at Unyanyembe in charge of Kaif- 
Halek ("How do you do?"), a servant of Living- 
stone whom Stanley had brought up with him, lay 
across the Doctor's knees when they sat down in the 
hut. He opened it, read one or two of his children's 
letters, and then asked for the news,* 

*There was one piece of news brought by Stanley to Liv- 
ingstone that was far from satisfactory. At Bagamoio, on the 
coast, Stanley had found a caravan with supplies for Living- 
stone that had been dispatched from Zanzibar three or four 
months before, the men in charge of which had been lying 
idle there all that timxC on the pretext that they were waiting 
for carriers. A letter- bag was also lying at Bagamoio, al- 
though several caravans for Ujiji had left in the meantime. 
On hearing that the Consul at Zanzibar, Dr. Kirk, was com- 
ing to the neighborhood to hunt, the party at last made off. 
Overtaking them at Unyanyembe, Stanley took charge of 
Livingstone's stores, but was not able to bring them on ; only 
he compelled the letter-carrier to come on to Ujiji with his 
bag. At what time, but for Stanley, Livingstone would have 
got his letters, which after all were a year on the way, he 
could not have told. For his stores, or such fragments of them 
as might remain, he had afterward to trudge all the way to 
Unyanyembe. His letters conveyed the news that Govern- 

218 



STANLEY. 219 

"No, Doctor ; read your letters first." 

"Ah, I have waited years for letters, and have been 
taught patience. I can wait a few hours longer. 
Tell me the news. How is the world getting on?" 

"The news he had to tell,'' Livingstone writes, '*to 
one who had been two full years without any tidings 
from Europe, made my whole frame thrill. The ter- 
rible fate that had befallen France; the telegraphic 
cables successfully laid in the Atlantic; the election 
of General Grant ; the death of good Lord Clarendon, 
my constant friend; the proof that H.M.'s Govern- 
ment had not forgotten me in voting £i,ooo for sup- 
plies, and many other points of interest, revived 
emotions that had lain dormant in Manyuema." 

This flood of news was poured out on the Doctor 
by his companion as they sat at their first meal to- 
gether. The Arabs, noting the turn in the tide, sent 
in their best dishes — Mohamed ben Salih, a curried 
chicken; Moene Kheri, stewed goat's meat, etc. "Liv- 
ingstone, who had been able to take nothing but tea 
for some days, ate like a vigorous and healthy man, 
and as he vied with me in demolishing the pancakes, 
kept repeating, 'You have brought me new life, you 
have brought me new life !' " Stanley sat opposite, 
enjoying his well-earned success, and presently 

ment had voted a thousand pounds for his relief, and were 
besides to pay him a salary. The unpleasant feeling he had 
had so long as to his treatment by Government was thus at 
last somewhat relieved. 



220 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. / 

called out : " 'Oh, by George ! I have forgotten. 
Selim, bring that bottle and the silver goblets.' They 
were brought, and we pledged one another in Sillery 
champagne." 

That night the Doctor sat up late reading his 
budget, but was up before his visitor to greet him in 
the veranda with, '' 'Good-morning, Mr. Stanley. I 
hope you rested well. You have brought me good 
and bad news. But sit down,' making room for me 
by his side. 'Yes, many of my friends are dead. 
My eldest son has met with a bad accident — that is 
my boy Tom. My second son, Oswell, is at College 
studying medicine, and is doing well, I am told. 
Agnes, my eldest daughter, has been enjoying herself 
in a yacht with ''Sir Parafine" Young and his fam- 
ily. Sir Roderick is well, and hopes he shall soon 
see me. You have brought me quite a budget.' " 

After explaining his mission, and eliciting the 
Doctor's thankful acknowledgment that he had 
come just at the right time, for "I was beginning 
to think I should have to beg from the Arabs," Stan- 
ley ordered his servant Ferajji to bring breakfast, 
excellent tea, and hot "dampers," served in silver 
on a Persian carpet. The Doctor watched admir- 
ingly, and, while doing justice to the soft cakes — a 
delightful change from the uncooked corn-ears 
which he had been living on of late, and which had 
loosened all his teeth — remarked, "You have given 
me an appetite. Halimah is my cook, but she never 



STANLEY. 221 

can tell the difference between tea and coffee." Hal- 
imah was the wife of one of his four men who had 
remained faithful. ''Instead of my spare tasteless 
two meals a day," the Journal runs, "1 ate four times 
a day, and soon began to feel strong. I am not a 
demonstrative man, as cold, in fact, as we islanders 
are reputed to be, but the disinterested kindness of 
Mr. Bennett, carried into eft'ect by Mr. Stanley, was 
simply overwhelming." 

The intimacy grew apace, and the strong impul- 
sive young correspondent was soon under the spell 
of Livingstone's character — "a character," he writes, 
"that I venerated, that called forth all my enthusiasm 
and sincerest admiration. He is about sixty years 
old, though after he was restored to health he looked 
like a man who had not passed his fiftieth year. His 
hair has a brownish color yet, but is here and there 
streaked with gray lines over the temples ; his whis- 
kers and mustache are very gray. He shaves his chin 
daily. His eyes, which are hazel, are remarkably 
bright; he has a sight keen as a hawk. His teeth 
alone indicate the weakness of age; the hard iare\ 
has made havoc in their lines. His form, which soon 
assumed a stoutish appearance, is a little over the 
ordinary height, with the slightest possible stoop in 
the shoulders. When \valking he takes a firm but 
heavy tread, like that of a fatigued man. He is 
accustomed to wear a naval cap, by which he has 
been identified throus^hout Africa. His dress when 



222 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

first I saw him exhibited traces of patching and re- 
pairing, but was scrupulously neat. . c o There 
is a good-natured abandon about him. Whenever he 
began a laugh, there was a contagion about it that 
compelled me to imitate him. It was such a laugh 
as Herr Teufelsdrockh's — a laugh of the whole 
man from head to heel. If he told a story his face 
was lit up by the sly fun it contained." 

Soon the old traveller was anxious to be up and 
away, to finish his task; but he had only four male 
followers left, and a few yards of cloth. In re- 
counting his travels to Stanley he had mentioned that 
he had never explored the northern part of Lake 
Tanganyika. The choice had lain between this and 
verifying the central line of drainage of the Lualaba. 
This latter he held to be the more important, and to 
that he had turned when, as we know, he pushed on to 
the west, where he had followed the great river over 
seven degrees northward into the Manyuema coun- 
try. He had been baffled there and obliged to turn 
back ; but this was the work he must go back to, and 
1 finish. Is the Lualaba the western source of the Nile? 
That was the great question. As for Tanganyika, 
he believed it would be found to be connected with 
the Albert Nyanza by a river, the Lusize or Rusizi, 
flowing out of its northern extremity. This was his 
belief, based on the reports of Arabs and a test as to 
the flow of the lake which he had made with water- 
plants, but he had hardly given it a thought. 



STANLEY, 22-d 

*Why not explore the northern end before you 
leave Ujiji?" Stanley suggested. "I have twenty 
men who understand boating, and plenty of guns, 
cloth, and beads." 

"I am ready whenever you are," Livingstone an- 
swered. 

*'No, I am at your command. Don't you hear my 
men call you 'the great master' and me 'the little 
master' ? It would never do for the little master to 
command." 

Stanley's statement that Sir Roderick was inter- 
ested settled the question finally tha;t they should em- 
bark on "this picnic," as the Doctor called it. 

Having borrowed a canoe capable of carrying 
twenty-five men and stores from Sayd bin Majid, of 
whom Livingstone had said, "If ever there was an 
Arab gentleman, he was one," they started for the 
northern end of Lake Tanganyika on November i6, 
1871. 

They rowed to the extreme north of the lake, and 
ascertained that the river Lusize flowed into the lake 
and not out of it, as did all the other rivers whose 
moutlis they passed. Thus the Arab testimony again 
broke down. No outlet to the lake could be found ; 
but the Doctor retained his firm belief that an out- 
let must exist, though he had been unable to find it.* 

*It was agreed that the two travellers should make a short 
excursion to the north end of Lake Tanganyika, to ascertain 
whether the lake had an outlet there. This was done, but it 



224 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

On December 13 th they returned to Ujiji, having 
made the circuit of the whole of Lake Tanganyika 
north of that town. To Livingstone it had been a 
time of rest and recruiting, though he had one sharp 
bilious attack, while Stanley was twice struck down 
by severe fever. 

The incidents of the voyage were few, but the way 
in which they impressed the two travellers, and are 
severally recounted by them, illustrates the charac- 
ters of the two men, and the hold which the elder 
was getting on the younger. The following may 
serve as specimens. 

was found that instead of flowing out, the river Lusize flowed 
into the lake, so that the notion that the lake discharged itself 
northward turned out to be an error. Meanwhile, the future 
arrangements of Dr. Livingstone were matter of anxious 
consideration. One thing was fixed and certain from the be- 
ginning: Livingstone would not go home with Stanley. Much 
though his heart yearned for home and family — all the more 
that he had just learned that his son Thomas had had a dan- 
gerous accident — and much though he needed to recruit his 
strength and nurse his ailments, he would not think of it 
while his work remained unfinished. To turn back tO' those 
dreary sponges, sleep in those flooded plains, encounter anew 
that terrible pneumonia which was "worse than ten fevers," 
or that distressing hcnemorrhage which added extreme weak- 
ness to extreme agony — might have turned any heart; Living- 
stone never flinched from it. What a reception awaited him 
if he had gone home to England ! What v/elcome from 
friends and children, what triumphal cheers from all the great 
societies and savants, what honors from all who had honors to 
confer, what opportunity of renewing efforts to establish mis- 
sions and commerce, and to suppress the slave-traffic ! Then 
he might return to Africa in a vear. and finish his work. 



STANLEY. 225 

Livingstone. — ''November 20th. — Passed a very 
crowded population, the men calling to us to land 
and be fleeced and insulted; they threw stones, and 
one, apparently slung, lighted close to the canoe. 
The lake narrows to about ten miles, as the western 
mountains come toward the eastern range, that being 
about N.N.W. magnetic. Many stumps of trees 
killed by water show an encroachment by the lake on 
the east side. A transverse range seems to shut in 
the north end, but there is open country to the east 
and west of its ends." 

Stanley. — "About half-way between Cape Kisan- 
we and Murembeve is a cluster of villages which has 
a mutare (head-man), who is in the habit of taking 
honga (tribute). They called to us to come ashore, 
threatening us with the vengeance of the great 
Wami if we did not halt. As the voices were any- 
thing but siren-like, we obstinately refused. Find- 
ing threats of no avail, they had recourse to stones, 
and flung them at us in a most hearty manner. As 
one came within a foot of my arm, I suggested that 
a bullet should be sent in return in close proximity to 
their feet, but Livingstone, though he said nothing, 
showed clearly that he did not approve of this." 

Livingstone. — ''November 21st. — Landed under a 
cliff to rest and cook, but a crowd came and made 
inquiries ; then a few more came as if to investigate 
more perfectly. They told us to sleep, and to-mor- 
row friendship should be made. We put our lug- 



226 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

gage on board, and set a watch on the cliff. A num- 
ber of men came along, cowering behind rocks, and 
we slipped off quietly; they called after us as men 
balked of their prey." 

Stanley. — ''Our kettle was boiling for tea, and the 
men had built a little fire for themselves, and had 
filled their earthen pot with water for porridge, 
when our look-outs perceived dark forms creeping 
toward our bivouac. Being hailed, they came for- 
ward and saluted us with the native Vake.' Our 
guides explained that we were Wangwana (whites), 
and intended to camp till morning, when, if they had 
anything to sell, we would trade. They said they 
were rejoiced to hear this, and after they had ex- 
changed a few words more — during which we ob- 
served that they were taking notes of the camp — 
went away. Three other parties followed, and re- 
tired in like manner. We had good cause to be sus- 
picious at this going backward and forward, and, as 
our supper had been despatched, we thought it high 
time to act. The men were hurried into the canoe, 
and when all were seated, and the look-outs em- 
barked, we quietly pushed off, but not a moment too 
soon. As the canoe glided from the darkened light 
that surrounded us, I called the Doctor's attention to 
dark forms, some crouching behind the rocks on our 
right, others scrambling over them, and directly a 
voice hailed us from the top of the bank under which 
we had been lately resting. 'Neatljr done,' said thq 



STANLEY. 227 

Doctor, as we shot through the water, leaving the 
discomfited would-be robbers behind us. Here 
again my hand was stayed from planting a couple of 
shots as a warning to them, by the presence of the 
Doctor/' 

Livingstone. — ''November 2^th. — We came to 
some villages on a high bank, where Makunga is liv- 
ing. The chief, a young, good-looking man, came 
and welcomed us. War rages between Makunga 
and Uasmasene, a chief between this and Lusiger. 
Ten men were killed by Makunga' s people a few 
days ago. Vast numbers of fishermen ply their call- 
ing night and day as far as we can see. I gave 
Alakunga nine dotis and nine fundos." 

Stanley. — ^^Our second evening at Makunga's, 
Susi, the Doctor's servant, got gloriously drunk 
through the chief's liberal and profuse gifts of 
pombe. Just at dawn next morning I was awakened 
by several sharp, crack-like sounds. I listened, and 
found the noise was in our hut. It v/as caused by 
the Doctor, who, tow^ard midnight, had felt some 
one come and lie down by his side on the same bed, 
and, thinking it was I, had kindly made room, and 
lain on the edge of the bed. But in the morning, 
feeling cold, he had thoroughly awakened, and ris- 
ing on his elbow to see who his bed-fellow was, dis- 
covered, to his astonishment, that it was Susi, who, 
having taken possession of his blankets and folded 
them about himself, was occupying almost the whole 



228 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

bed. The Doctor, with the gentleness characteristic 
of him, instead of taking a rod, contented himself 
with slapping Susi on the back, saying, 'Get up, 
Susi, will you ! You're in my bed. How dare you, 
sir, get drunk after I have told you so often not to? 
Get up! You won't! Take that, and that, and 
that.' Still Susi slept and grunted, so the slapping 
continued, till even Susi's thick hide began to feel it, 
and he was thoroughly wakened to his want of devo- 
tion to his master, and looked very much crestfallen 
at this expose of his infirmity before 'the little mas- 
ter,' as I was called. 

'T had seen nothing to compare to these fishing 
settlements under the shade of a grove of palms and 
plantains, banians, and mimosas, with capsoa gar- 
dens to the right and left, looking down on a quiet 
bay, whose calm waters reflected the beauties of the 
hills which sheltered them from the rough tempests 
which so often blew without. The fishermen evi- 
dently think themselves comfortably situated. Na- 
ture has supplied them bountifully with all that a 
man's heart or stomach can desire. It is while look- 
ing at what seems com.plete and perfect happiness 
that the thought occurs, how must these people sigh, 
when driven across the dreary wilderness between 
the lake country and the sea-coast, for such homes as 
these; bought by Arabs for two doti, and driven to 
Zanzibar to pick cloves or do hamal work." 

Livingstone, — ''December 9^/^.— Leave New York 



STANLEY. 229 

Herald Islet and go south to Lubumba Cape. The 
people now are the Basansos along the coast. Some 
men here were drunk and troublesome. We gave 
them a present, and left them about half-past four in 
the afternoon, and went to an islet in the north end 
in about three hours' good pulling; afterward in 
eight hours to eastern shore. This makes the lake, 
say, twenty-eight or thirty miles broad. We coasted 
along to Makunga's and rested." 

Stanley. — "After breakfast we lay down as usual 
for an afternoon nap. I soon fell asleep, and was 
dreaming away in my tent in happy oblivion, when 
I heard a voice hailing me : 'Master ! master ! get up 
quick. Here's a fight going to begin.' I sprang 
up, snatched my revolver-belt from the gun-stand, 
and went outside. Sure enough, there appeared to 
be considerable animus between a noisy, vindictive- 
looking set of men and our people. Seven or eight 
of our people had taken refuge behind the canoe, and 
had their guns half pointing at the passionate mob, 
momentarily increasing in numbers ; but I could not 
see the Doctor anywhere. 

" 'Where's the Doctor?' I asked. 

" *Gone over the hill, sir, with his compass/ said 
Selim. 

" *Any one with him ?' 

" *Susi and Chumah.' 

" 'You, Bombay, send off two men to warn the 
Doctor, and tdl him to hurry up here/ 



230 THE LIFE OE DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

"Just then the Doctor and his two men appeared 
on the brow of the hill, looking down in a most com- 
placent manner on the serio-comic scene which 4:he 
little basin we were in presented. A naked young 
man, perfectly drunk, barely able to stand, beating 
the ground with his only loin-cloth, screaming and 
storming away like a madman, declaring by this and 
by that, in his own choice language, that no Arab 
should halt one moment on the sacred soil of Umsisi. 
His father, the Sultan, was as drunk as he, though 
not quite so violent. 

"Selim slipped my Winchester rifle, with the 
magazine full of cartridges, into my hand, as the 
Doctor arrived on the scene and. asked calmly what 
was the matter. He was answered that they were at 
war with the Arabs since Mombo, the young son of 
Kisesa, Sultan of Mazimu, the large island nearly 
opposite, had been beaten to death by an Arab at 
Ujiji for looking into his harem. The Doctor, 
baring his arm, said he was not an Arab, but a white 
man from whom no black man had ever suffered in- 
jury. This seemed to produce great effect, for after 
a little gentle persuasion the drunken youth and his 
no less drunken sire were induced to sit down and 
talk quietly. They frequently referred to Mombo, 
who was brutally murdered: 'Yes, brutally mur- 
dered,' they exclaimed several times in their own 
tongue, illustrating by faithful pantomime hpw th^ 
unlucky jrouth had cii^d- 



STANLEY. 231 

"Livingstone continued talking to them in a mild, 
paternal way, when the old Sultan suddenly rose up, 
and began to pace about in an excited manner, and 
in one of his perambulations deliberately slashed his 
leg with the sharp blade of his spear, exclaiming that 
the Arabs had wounded him. 

'It was evident that there was little needed to 
cause all the men in that hollow to begin a most san- 
guinary strife. The gentle and patient bearing of 
the Doctor had more effect than anything else in 
making all forbear bloodshed, and in the end pre- 
vailed. The Sultan and his son were both sent on 
their way rejoicing.'^ 

To sum up the results of this ^'Tanganyika picnic" 
to the two travellers. The Doctor had taken careful 
observations of the whole of the lake north of Ujiji, 
had ascertained that there was no outlet north, by 
the Lusize or any other river, and had satisfied him- 
self that here also were regions well fitted for mis- 
sion stations and for the residence of white men. 
He had also recovered much of his bodily health and 
elasticity of spirits, in this last fellowship he was 
destined to enjoy with one of his own race. 

The younger man had gained that most precious 
of all experiences — to him who can profit by it — 
daily intimate contact with a thoroughly noble and 
pious life; and his manly admiration had grown into 
enthusiasm and hero-worship, till he can write de- 
liberately : "You may take any point in Dr. Living- 



232 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

stone^s character, and analyze it carefully, and I will 
challenge any man to find a fault in it." And he 
had discovered Livingstone's secret. "His relig- 
ion," he writes, "is a constant, earnest, sincere prac- 
tice. It is neither demonstrative nor loud, but mani- 
fests itself in a quiet, practical way, and is always at 
work. In him religion exhibits its loveliest features ; 
it governs his conduct not only toward his servants, 
but toward the natives, the bigoted Mahomedans, 
and all who come in contact with him. Without it, 
Livingstone, with his ardent temperament, his en- 
thusiasm, his high spirit and courage, must have be- 
come uncompanionable and a hard master. Relig- 
ion has tamed him and made him a Christian gentle- 
man, the most companionable of men and indulgent 
of masters." 

Above all, Stanley had received and mastered a 
noble lesson in the treatment of the natives. He 
had learnt that the "soft answer turneth away 
wrath" with blacks as with whites; and that, wher- 
ever the blight of the slave-trade had not passed, 
kindliness, honesty, and family affection were 
scarcely rarer amongst black than amongst white 
folk. Having regard to Stanley's subsequent career 
in Africa as Livingstone's successor*, it is difficult to 
exaggerate the value of those few weeks. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

grO UNYANYEMBE WITH STANLEY. 
1871-72. 

From the 14th to the 27th of December the two 
travellers rested at Ujiji. At meals they sat on the 
black bearskin and gay Persian carpet, their backs to 
the wail, sipping their tea, and chatting on the inci- 
dents of ''the picnic," as the Doctor persisted in call- 
ing it. The Doctor's spare time was spent in pre- 
paring despatches and letters for home; Stanley's, 
when not down with fever, in preparing for his 
march, and looking after his friend's interests as he 
understood them. His soul was vexed by the pres- 
ence of the mutineers, who had baffled the Doctor 
and forced him to turn back from Nyangwe. The 
words, "li I could only have gone one month farther 
I could have said, 'My work is done,' " rang in his 
ears, and he fretted at the sight of the men swagger- 
ing round Ujiji with the Doctor's Enfield rifles. At 
last he could stand it no longer, and having obtained 
the Doctor's permission, with the aid of Susi, recov- 
ered them all without coming to blows. And now 
came serious debates as to the future. Every argu- 
ment the younger man could ^hink of was urged to 



^34 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

shake the Doctor's resolution. "Your family are 
longing to see you." "I promise to carry you every 
foot of the way back to the coast. You shall have 
the finest donkey in Unyanyembe to ride." ''Let the 
sources of the Nile go. Come home and rest. Get 
well, and then come back and finish what you have 
to do." 

"Mr. Stanley," runs the Journal, "used some very 
strong arguments in favor of my going home, re- 
cruiting my strength, getting artificial teeth, and 
then returning to finish my task; but my judgment 
said, 'AH your friends will wish you to make a com- 
plete work of the sources of the Nile before you 
retire.' My daughter Agnes says, 'Much as I wish 
you to come home, I had rather you finished your 
work to your satisfaction than return merely to 
gratify me.' Rightly and nobly said, my darling 
Nannie. Vanity whispers pretty loudly, 'She's a 
chip of the old block. My blessings on her and all 
the rest.' " 

So the old explorer set his face as a flint ; but as a 
compromise agreed to go with Stanley to Unyan- 
yembe, where he had left stores and would find let- 
ters* There he would wait till Stanley could send 
him up a band of free men from Zanzibar, with 
whom he could hope to complete his work. 

Livingstone's Diary. — "December 26th. — Had 
but a sorry Christmas yesterday." 

Stanley. — "Christmas came, and the Doctor and I 



TO UNYANYEMBE WITH STANLEY^ 235 

had resolved to keep the blessed and time-honored 
day, as at home, with a feast. The fever had quite 
gone from me the night before, and on Christmas 
morning I was up and dressed, and lecturing Ferajji 
on the importance of the day to white men, and try- 
ing to instil into the sleek and pampered animal some 
secrets of the culinary art. But, alas, for my weak- 
ness! Ferajji spoilt the roast, and our custard was 
burned. The dinner was a failure. That the fat- 
brained rascal escaped a thrashing was due only to 
my inability to lift my hands, but my looks were 
capable of annihilating any one except Ferajji. He 
only chuckled, and I believe had the subsequent 
gratification of eating the pies, custards, and roast 
his carelessness had spoiled for European palates." 

Next day the preparations were completed. Liv- 
ingstone left everything to his young comrade, in- 
cluding the route. The boldness of that chosen, with 
no assistance but the chart Stanley had made of his 
outward journey, elicited at once his hearty ap- 
proval. Its plan was to take boat to the south end of 
Lake Tanganyika, and then to push straight east 
through a new country to Imrera on the direct route 
from Unyanyembe to Ujiji, thus avoiding disturbed 
districts and those of exacting chiefs, who had plun- 
dered and hindered Stanley on his upward march to 
Ujiji. 

They had a prosperous and merry voyage of seven 
days, in two canoes, the first carrying Livingstone 



236 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

and his five servants (who in reward for their faith- 
fulness were taken as passengers and exempted from 
carrying anything on the march), with the Union 
Jack at the stern, the second, Stanley, under the 
Stars and Stripes. On January 7th they left the 
lake, and on the i6th reached Imrera, leaving it 
again on the i8th, and arriving at Unyanyembe on 
February i8th. 

The Doctor, though a guest, marched the whole 
way, declining the ''finest donkey in Unyan," which 
had been thoughtfully provided for him. There 
was, as usual, much wild, rough work in jungle and 
forest, but with glimpses of better things, such as 
had cheered him in so many untrodden parts of Cen- 
tral Africa. 

Thus in his Journal : "January 10th. — Across a 
very lovely green country of open forest, all fresh, 
like an English gentleman's park. Game plentiful. 
Tree-covered mountains right and left, and much 
brown haematite on the levels." "January 16th. — A 
very cold night, after long and heavy rain. Our 
camp was among brackens. Went E. and by S. 
along the high land, and then saw a village in a deep 
valley, to which we descended. Then up another 
ridge to a valley, and along to a village well culti- 
vated. Up again at least 700 feet, and down to 
Mereras village, hid in a mountainous nook, about 
one hundred and forty huts with doors on one side. 
The valleys present a lovely scene of industry, all the 



TO UNYANYEMBE WITH STANLEY. 237 

people being eagerly engaged in weeding and hoe- 
ing, to take advantage of the abundant rains which 
have drenched us every afternoon." 

This first ten days' march across the unexplored 
country proved a severe trial to Stanley, out of 
which he came with flying colors. "Against the col- 
lective counsel of the guides I have persisted in being 
guided only by the compass and my chart. They 
strenuously strove to induce me to alter my course, 
and the veterans asked if I were determined to kill 
them with famine, as the road was N.E. ; but I pre- 
ferred putting my trust in the compass. No sun 
shone on us as we threaded our way through the 
primeval forest. A thick haze covered the forests; 
rain often pelted us; the firmament was an un- 
fathomable depth of gray vapor. The Doctor had 
perfect confidence in me, and I held on my way." 

On their arrival at Imrera he writes : ''By noon 
we were in our old camp. The natives gathered 
round, bringing supplies of food, and to congratu- 
late us on having gone to Ujiji and back, but it was 
long before the last of the expedition arrived. The 
Doctor's feet were very sore and bleeding from the 
weary march. His shoes were in a very worn-out 
state, and he had so cut and slashed them to ease his 
blistered feet that any man of our force would have 
refused them as a gift, no matter how ambitious he 
might be to encase his feet a la Umsimga." 

^'January igth. — Mpokwa's deserted village. The 



238 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Doctor's feet were very much chafed and sore by the 
marching. He had walked on foot all the way, 
though he owned a donkey; while I, considerably to 
my shame be it said, had ridden occasionally to hus- 
band my strength, that I might be able to hunt after 
arrival at camp." In this important pursuit, for the 
force depended on him for meat, Stanley found new 
ground for his hero-worship. He hunted with the 
Doctor's Reilly rifle. He was often successful, and 
"when I returned to camp with meat I received the 
congratulations of the Doctor, which I valued above 
all others, as he knew from long experience what 
shooting was." 

On January 20th they halted, and Stanley stalked 
and hit a giraffe, which went off notwithstanding. 
**The Doctor, who knew how to console an ardent 
young hunter, attributed my non-success to shooting 
with leaden balls, which were too soft to penetrate 
the thick hide of the giraffe, and advised me to melt 
my zinc canteens, with which to harden the lead. It 
was not the first time I had cause to thank the Doc- 
tor. None knew so well how to console one for bad 
luck; how to elevate one in his own mind. If I 
killed a zebra, did not his friend Oswell — the South 
African hunter — and himself long ago come to the 
conclusion that zebra's was the finest meat in Africa ? 
If I shot a buffalo, she was sure to be the best of her 
kind, and her horns worth carrying home as speci- 
mens, and was she not fat? If I returned without 



TO UNYANYEMBE WITH STANLEY. 239 

anything, the game was very wild, or the people had 
made a noise and the game had been frightened, and 
who could stalk animals already alarmed? Indeed, 
he was a most considerate companion, and knowing 
him to be literally truthful, I was proud of his praise 
when successful, and when I failed was easily con- 
soled." Three days later he killed a giraffe with the 
zinc bullet. In the evening of the same day the 
Doctor was employed from ten till midnight in tak- 
ing observations from the Star Canopus, which 
showed Mpokwa to be in S. latitude 6° i8' 40", dif- 
fering three miles only from the result Stanley had 
arrived at on his upward journey by dead reckoning. 
"January 2yth. — We set out for Missonghi. 
About half way I saw the head of the expedition on 
the run, and my donkey began to lash behind with 
his heels. In a second I was aware of the cause by 
a cloud of bees buzzing round my head, three or four 
of which settled on my face and stung me fright- 
fully. We raced madly for half a mile, behaving as 
wildly as the poor, bestung animals. As this was 
an unusually long march, I doubted if the Doctor 
could make it, as his feet were so sore, so I sent 
four men back with the litter ; but the stout old hero 
refused to be carried, and walked all the way to 
camp, eighteen miles. He had been stung dread- 
fully in the head and face; the bees had settled in 
handfuls in his hair; but, after a cup of warm tea 
and some food, he was as cheerful as if he had never 



240 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

traveled a mile. . . . Under that way-worn ex- 
terior lay a fund of high spirits and inexhaustible 
humor; that rugged frame enclosed a young and 
most excellent soul. Every day I heard innumerable 
jokes and pleasant anecdotes, hunting stories in 
which his friends, Oswell, W^ebb, Vardon, and Gor- 
don Gumming, were almost always the chief actors. 
At first I was not sure but this joviality, humor, and 
abundant animal spirits were the result of joyous 
hysteria, but as I found they continued while I was 
with him, I was obliged to think them natural." 

On January 3 1 st they met a caravan from Unyan- 
yembe, and Stanley learnt that Shaw, whom he had 
left there, was dead. He was ill of fever himself, 
and broke out : " *Ah, Doctor ! there are two of us 
out of three gone; I shall be the third if this fever 
lasts.' *0h, no, not at all,' he replied. *If you 
would have died from fever, you would have died at 
Ujiji, when you had that severe attack of remittent 
Don't think of it. Your fever now is only the result 
of exposure to wet. I never travel during the wet 
season. This time I have traveled because I did not 
wish to detain you at Ujiji.' Besides, the Doctor 
added, he had stores of jellies and potted soup, fish, 
ham, waiting at Unyanyembe, which he would share 
with me, whereupon I was greatly cheered." 

*^ February 6th. — Marching through Ukamba for- 
est, the Doctor said he could never pass through an 
African forest, with its solemn serenity and stillness, 



TO UNYANYEMBE WITH STANLEY. 241 

without wishing to be buried quietly under the dead 
leaves. In England there was no elbow-room, and 
graves were often desecrated, and ever since he had 
buried his wife in the woods at Shupanga, he had 
sighed for such a grave, where his bones would get 
the rest they needed." 

And so they went on to Unyanyembe, the Doctor 
sturdily marching all the way, but otherwise giving 
in to being the petted guest ; taking no thought for 
the morrow, but leaving food, route, and discipline 
on the march to his young friend, while he just took 
his observations, and made short entries in his big 
Letts's diary. On February 14th they marched into 
Unyanyembe with flags flying and guns firing. 

To his great annoyance Livingstone found that 
his stores had been broken into and plundered, so 
that he could not regale his companion upon any- 
thing but crackers and hard cheese. What the 
Arabs had left had been destroyed by white ants, 
which had eaten even the stocks of two valuable 
rifles, and the locks and barrels had become useless 
from neglect and rust. Stanley's storeroom had 
also been broken into and plundered, with the con- 
nivance of, if not by order of, the Governor, who 
would not face the outraged travellers. However, 
Stanley had still sufficient stores to set up his com- 
panion. 

Livingstone's Journal. — ^^ February iSth. — My 
losses by the Banian-employed slaves are more than 



242 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

made up by Mr. Stanley. Indeed, I am quite set up, 
and as soon as he can send me men, not slaves, from 
the coast, I go to my work with a fair prospect of 
finishing it." 

"February 20th. — To my great joy, I got four 
flannel shirts from Agnes, and I was delighted to 
find that two pairs of fine English boots had most 
considerately been sent by my kind friend Mr. 
Waller." 

''February 22d. — Service this morning, and 
thanked God for safety thus far. Got a packet of 
letters from an Arab." In answering these letters, 
and writing despatches to Lords Granville, Claren- 
don, and Sir R. Murchison, the days were spent. 
To Mr. Gorden Bennett also he wrote a grateful ac- 
knowledgment for timely succor. 

''March 14th. — Mr. Stanley leaves. I commit to 
his care my Journal, sealed with five seals; the im- 
pressions are those of an American gold coin, anna, 
and half-anna, and cake of paint with royal arms, 
positively not to be opened." 

Stanley. — ''At dawn we were up. The bales and 
baggage were taken outside, and the men prepared 
themselves for their first march homeward. We 
had a sad breakfast together. I couldn't eat, my 
heart was too full; nor did my companion seem to 
have any appetite. We found something to do 
which kept us together. At eight I was not gone, 
anc} I h^cj thought to have been off at five A. M» 



TO UNYANYEAIBE WITH STANLEY. 243 

'Doctor, ril leave two of my men. Maybe you've 
forgotten something in the hurry. I'll halt a day at 
Tara for your last word and your last wish. Now, 
we must part. There's no help for it. Good-by.' 

" 'Oh, I'm coming with you a little way. I must 
see you on the road.' 

" Thank you. Now, my men, home ! Kirangoze, 
lift the flag. March !' 

"On the walk Livingstone once more told his 
plans, and it was settled that his men should be hired 
for two years from arrival at Unyanyembe, to give 
ample margin for the completion of his work.* 

*Dr. Livingstone's last act before Mr. Stanley left him was 
to write his letters — twenty for Great Britain, six for Bombay, 
two for New York, and one for Zanzibar. The two for New- 
York were for Mr. Bennett of the New York Herald, by 
whom Stanley had been sent to Africa. 

Mr. Stanley has freely unfolded to us the bitterness of his 
heart in parting from Livingstone. "My days seem to have 
been spent in an Elysian field; otherwise, why should I so 
keenly regret the mear approach of the parting hour? Havs 
I not been battered by successive fevers, prostrate with agony 
day after day lately? Have I not raved and stormed in mad- 
ness? Have I not clenched my fists in fury, and fought with 
the wild strength of despair when in delirium? Yet, I regret 
to surrender the pleasure I have felt in this man's society, 
though so dearly purchased. . . . March 14th. — We had a 
sad breakfast together. I could not eat, my heart was too 
full ; neither did my companion seem to have an appetite. We 
found something to do which kept us longer together. At 
eight o'clock I was not gone, and I had thought to have been 
off at five A. M. . . . We walked side by side; the men 
lifted their voices in a song. I took long locks at Livingstone, 
%o impress his features thoroughly on my niemory." 



S44: THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

" 'Now, my dear Doctor, the best friends must 
part. You have come far enough.' 

" 'Well, I will say this to you. You have done 
what few men could do ; far better than some great 
travellers I know. And I am grateful to you for 
what you have done for me. God guide you safe 
home, and bless you, my friend.' 

" 'And may God bring you safe back to us all, my 
dear friend. Farewell.' 

" TarewelL' 

"We wrung each other's hands, and I had to tear 
myself away before I was unmanned. But Susi, 
and Chumah, and Hamaydah, the Doctor's faithful 
fellows, they must all shake and kiss my hands ; be- 
fore I could quite turn away I betrayed myself." 

Stanley resolutely turned his face eastward, but 
now and then would take a look round at the de- 
serted figure of an old man in gray clothes, who with 
bended head and slow steps was returning to his soli- 
tude. A drop in the path came which would hide 
him from view. "I took one more look at him. He 
was standing near the gate of Kwihaha, with his 
servants near him. I waved a handkerchief to him, 
and he responded by lifting his cap." 

This was Livingstone's last sight of a white man. 
It is well that we have so vivid a picture of the bent 
figure in gray standing at the gate of Kwihaha. The 
old world has borne on her surface few nobler or 
more pathetic figures since time began. On the 17th 



TO UNYANYE:^>tBE WITH STANLEY. 243 

Susi and Hamaydah reached Stanley at the ap- 
pointed halt, with one letter for Sir Thomas iNIaclear 
and another for himself. 

The latter ran: "Kwihaha, March 15, 1872. — 
Dear Stanley — If you can telegraph, on your arrival 
in London, be particular, please, to say how Sir Rod- 
erick is. You put the matter exactly yesterday, 
when you said I w^as 'not yet satisfied about the 
sources, but, as soon as I shall be, I shall return and 
give satisfactory reasons fit for other people.' This 
is just as it stands. I wish I could give you a better 
word than the Scotch one 'to put a stout heart to a 
stey brae,' but you will do that, and I am thankful 
that before going aw^ay the fever had changed into 
the intermittent, or safe form. I would not have let 
you go but with great concern had you still been 
troubled with the continued type. I feel comfort- 
able in commending you to the guardianship of the 
good Lord and Father of all. Yours gratefully, 

"David Livingstone.'" 

"P. 5*. — -March i6th. — I have written a note this 
morning to Mr. Murray, the publisher, to help you 
if necessary in sending the Journal by book post or 
otherwise to Agnes. If you call on him, you will 
find him a frank gentleman. A pleasant journey to 
you. D. L, 

"To Henry M. Stanley, Esq., 

"Wherever he may be found." 



246 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

''March lyth. — Sent the men after Mr. Stanley, 
and two more to bring back his last words, if any." 

''March igth. — My birthday. My Jesus, my 
King, my Life, my All ! I again dedicate my whole 
soul to Thee. Accept me. And grant, oh Gracious 
Father, that ere this year is gone, I may finish my 
work. In Jesus' name I ask it. Amen." 

"March 2^th. — Susi brought letter from Mr. 
Stanley. He had a little fever, but I hope will go 
on safely." 

When Stanley reached England, it was not to be 
overwhelmed with gratitude. At first the Royal 
Geographical Society received him coldly. Instead 
of his finding Livingstone, it was surmised that Liv- 
ingstone had found him. Strange things were said 
of him at the British Association at Brighton. The 
daily press actually challenged his truthfulness; 
some of the newspapers affected to treat his whole 
story as a myth. Stanley says frankly that this re- 
ception gave a tone of bitterness to his book — "How 
I Found Livingstone" — which it would not have had 
if he had understood the real state of things. But 
the heart of the nation was sound; the people be- 
lieved in Stanley and appreciated his service. At 
last the mists cleared away, and England acknowl- 
edged its debt to the American. The Geographical 
Society gave him the right hand of fellowship "with 
a warmth and generosity never to be forgotten." 



TO UNYANYEMBE WITH STANLEY. 247 

The president apologized for the words of suspicion 
he had previously used. Her Majesty the Queen 
presented Stanley with a special token of her regard. 
Unhappily, in the earlier stages of the affair, wounds 
had been inflicted which are not likely ever to be 
wholly healed. Words were spoken on both sides 
which cannot be recalled. But the great fact re- 
mains, and will be written on the page of history, 
that Stanley did a noble service to Livingstone, earn- 
ing thereby the gratitude of England and of the civ- 
ilized world. 



CHAPTER XV. 

WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE. 
1872. 

The evening of life doses in sorrowfully (as men 
count sorrow) on the lonely old explorer from the 
day of Stanley's march for the coast. Five weary 
months he waited at Unyanyembe before the arrival 
of the escort whom Stanley enlisted and sent up 
from Zanzibar. But, though sorely tried by the de- 
lay, all the work which could be done on a halt went 
on as usual. No correspondence or observations 
were neglected which could forward any branch of 
his work, scientific, philanthropical, or religious, and 
every available resource, such as his few books 
afforded, used to the utmost.* 

*When Stanley left Livingstone at Unj^anyembe there was 
nothing for the latter but to wait there until the men should 
come to him who were to be sent up from Zanzibar. Stanley 
left on the 14th March ; Livingstone calculated that he would 
reach Zanzibar on the ist May, that his men would be ready 
to start about the 22d May, and that they ought to arrive at 
Unyanyembe on the loth or 15th July. In reality, Stanley did 
not reach Bagamoio till the 6th May. The men were sent 
oflf about the 25th, and they reached Unyanyembe about the 
9th August. A month more than had been counted on had 
to be spent at Unyanyembe, and this delay was all the more 

248 



WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE. 249 

Journal. — ''March igth. — Very rainy. Am read- 
ing Mungo Park's 'Travels' ; they look so truthful." 

"April 1st. — Read Young's 'Search after Living- 
stone' ; thankful for many kind words about me. He 
writes like a gentleman." 

"April 2d. — Making a sounding line out of lint 
left by Stanley. Whydah birds building their nests. 
The cock bird brings fine grass and seed stalks. He 
takes the end inside the nest and pulls it all in, save 
the ear. The hen keeps inside, constantly arranging 
the grass with all her might, sometimes making the 
whole nest move by her efforts. Feathers are laid 
in after the grass." 

"April 4th. — Copying astronomical observations 
for Sir T. Maclean" 

"April i^th. — Hung up sounding line on poles 
one fathom apart, and tarred it." 

News came now of the destruction by natives of 
the party of Arabs in Manyuema whom he was 

trying because it brought the traveller nearer to the rainy- 
season. 

The intention of Dr. Livingstone, when the men should 
come, was to strike south by Ufipa, go round Tanganyika, ^ 
then cross the Chambeze, and bear away along the southern 
shore of Bangweolo, straight west to the ancient fountains; 
from them in eight days to Katanga copper mines; from Ka- 
tanga, in ten days, northeast to the great underground excava- 
tions, and back again to Katanga, from which n.n.w. twelve 
days to the head of Lake Lincoln. "There I hope devoutly," 
he writes to his daughter, "to thank the Lord of all, and turn 
my face along Lake Kamolondo, and over Lualaba, Tangan- 
yika, Ujiji, and home." 



250 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

nearly joining a year before. "April i6th. — To go 
with them to Lomame, as my slaves were willing to 
do, was so repugnant to me that I preferred to re- 
^ turn that weary 600 miles to Ujiji. I mourned over 
' being baffled and thwarted all the way, but tried to 
believe it was all for the best. This news showed 
that, had I gone, I could not have escaped the 
Bakuss spears, for had I gone I could not have run 
like the routed fugitives." 

"May 1st. — Bought a cow for eleven dotis of 
Merikano; she gives milk, and this makes me inde- 
pendent. Herdman of Baganda from whom I 
bought her said, 'I go off to pray.' He has been 
taught by Arabs, and is the first proselyte they have 
gained. Baker thinks the first want of Africans is 
to teach them to want. Interesting, seeing that he 
was bored almost to death by Kamrasi wanting 
everything he had! . . . Finished a letter to 
the New York Herald, to elicit American zeal to 
stop the East Coast slave-trade. I pray for a bless- 
ing on it from the All-Gracious." The last sentence 
of this letter is inscribed on his tomb in Westmin- 
ster Abbey. ''All I can add in my loneliness," it 
runs, "is, may Heaven's rich blessings come down on 
every one, American, English, or Turk, who will 
help to heal the open sore of the world." 

"May 4th. — Many palavers about Mirambo's 
death. Arabs say he is a brave man, and the war is 
not near its end. Some northern natives called 



WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE. 251 

Bagoze get a keg of powder and a piece of doth, go 
and attack a village, wait for a month or so eating 
the food of the captured place, and come back for 
stores again. Thus the war goes on. Prepared 
tracing paper to draw map for Sir Thomas Maclean 
Lewale invites me to a feast." 

"Maj nth. — A serpent of dark olive color found 
dead at my door, killed by a cat. Puss approaches 
very cautiously and strikes her claw into the head 
with a blow delivered as quick as lightning; then 
holds the head down with both paws, heedless of the 
wriggling mass of coils behind it ; she then bites the 
neck and leaves it, looking at the disfigured head as 
if she knew that there had lain the hidden power of 
mischief. She seems to possess a little of the nature 
of the Ichneumon, which was sacred in Egypt from 
its destroying serpents. The serpent is in pursuit of 
mice when killed by puss." 

*'May lyth. — Waiting wearily. Ailing. Making 
cheeses for the journey ; good, but sour rather, as the 
milk soon turns in this climate, and we don't use ren- 
net, but let the milk coagulate of itself; and it does 
thicken in half a day." 

''May 22,d. — A family of ten Whydah birds come 
to the pomegranate trees in our yard. The eight 
young ones are fed by the dam as young pigeons are. 
The food is brought up from the crops without the 
bowing and bending of the pigeon. They chirrup 
briskly for food. The dam gives most, while the 



252 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

red-breasted cock gives one or two and then knocks 
the rest away." 

A passage in Speke that the women in Kasenge, 
an island in Tanganyika, sold their children, draws 
a long comment from the Doctor, in which he enters 
on the missionary topic, and draws a picture of what 
active men could do in this region. "In crossing 
Tanganyika three times I was detained on Kasenge 
about ten weeks in all. On each occasion Arab trad- 
ers were presenL, all eager to buy slaves, but none 
were offered, and they assured me they had never 
seen the habit alleged to exist by Speke. I would 
say to missionaries, 'Come on, brethren, to the real 
heathen. You have no idea how brave you are till 
you try. Leaving the coast tribes and devoting 
yourselves heartily to the savages, as they are called, 
you will find, with some drawbacks and wickedness, 
a very great deal to admire and love. Many state- 
ments made about them require confirmation. You 
will never see women selling their infants. The 
Arabs never did, nor have L' " And after going 
into practical details : ''It would be a sort of Robin- j 
son Crusoe life, but with abundant materials for sur- 
rounding oneself with comforts and improving the 
improvable amongst the natives. Clothing would 
require but small expense. Four suits of strong 
tweed served me comfortably for five years." 

May 2yth. — After noticing the arrival of another 
pair of V\^hydahs with brood, in which the cock bird 



WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE. 253 

feeds all the brood: "The young ones lift up a 
feather as a child would a doll, and invite others to 
do the same, in play. So, too, with another pair; 
the cock skips from side to side with a feather in his 
bill, and the hen is pleased. Nature is full of en- 
joyment. . . . Cock Whydah bird died in the 
night. The brood came and chirruped to it for food, 
and tried to make it feed them, as if not knowing 
death." 

There are troubles even amongst the few faithful 
servants left with him. 

''May 2gth. — Halimah ran away in a quarrel with 
Ntaoeka. I went over to Sultan bin Ali, and sent a 
note after her, but she came back of her own accord 
and only wanted me to come outside and tell her to 
enter. I did so, and added, 'You must not quarrel 
again.' She has been extremely good ever since I 
got her at Katombo. I never had to reprove her. 
She is always very attentive and clever, and never 
steals, nor would she allow her husband to steaL 
She is the best spoke in the wheel ; this, her only 
escapade, is easily forgiven, and I gave her a warm 
cloth for the cold by way of assuring her that I feel 
no grudge against her." 

Within a few days Ntaoeka had been taken in 
hand with equal success. *'When Ntaoeka chose to 
follow us rather than go to the coast, I did not like 
to have a fine-looking woman among us unattached, 
and proposed that she should marry one of my three 



254 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

worthies, Chumah, Gardiner, or Mabruki, but she 
smiled at the idea. Chumah was evidently too lazy 
ever to get a wife. The other two were contemptible 
in appearance, and she has a good presence and is 
buxom. Chumah promised reform. He had been 
lazy, he admitted, because he had no wife, and on my 
speaking to her again she consented. ... I 
have noticed her ever since working hard from 
morning to night, the first up in the morning, mak- 
ing fire, hot water, and wood, sweeping, cooking. '' 

Occasionally his Journal gives a gleam of humor : 
^'June i8th. — The Ptolemaic map defines people ac- 
cording to their food — the Elephantophagi, the 
Struthiophagi, the Ichthiophagi, and the Anthro- 
pophagi. If we followed the same sort of classifica- 
tion, our definition would be by the drink, thus : the 
tribe of stout-guzzlers, the roaring potheen-fuddlers, 
the whiskey-fishoid-drinkers, the vin-ordinaire bib- 
bers, the lager-beer-swillers, and an outlying tribe 
of the brandy cocktail persuasion." 

''June igth. — Whydahs, though full-fledged, still 
gladly take a feed from their dam, putting down the 
breast to the ground, cocking up the bill, and chir- 
ruping in the most engaging way they know. She 
gives them a little, but administers a friendly shove, 
too. They all pick up feathers and grass, and hop 
from side to side of their mater, as if saying, 'Come, 
let us play at making little homes.' The w^agtail has 
shaken her young quite off, and has a new nest 



WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE. 255 

She warbles prettily, very much like a canary, and is 
very active in catching flies, but eats crumbs and 
bread and milk too. Sun birds visit the pomegran- 
ate flowers, and eat insects therein too, as well as 
nectar. The young Whydah birds crouch closely to- 
gether at night for heat. They look like a woolly 
ball on a branch. By day they engage in pairing 
and coaxing each other. They come to the same 
twig every night. Like children, they try to lift 
heavy weights of feathers above their strength.'' 

''June 2ist. — Lewale off to the war with Mirambo. 
He is to finish it now ! a constant fusilade along the 
line of his march west will expend much powder, but 
possibly get their spirits up. If successful, wx shall 
get Banyamweze pagazi in numbers. Mirambo is 
reported to have sent one hundred tusks and one 
hundred slaves toward the coast to buy powder." 

''June 24th. — The medical education has led me to 
a continual tendency to suspend the judgment. What 
a state of blessedness it would have been had I pos- 
sessed the dead certainty of the homoeopathists, and 
as soon as I found Lakes Bangweolo, Moero, and 
Kamalondo pouring their waters down the great- 
central valley, bellowed out, 'Hurrah ! Eureka !' and 
got home in firm and honest belief that I had settled 
it, and no mistake. Instead of that I am even now 
not cocksure that I have not been following down 
what may after all be the Congo." 

*'July 2d — Make up a packet for Dr. Kirk and 



2B6 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Mr. Webb, of Zanzibar. Explain to Kirk, and beg 
him to investigate and punish, and put blame on 
right persons" (for the robberies of his goods). 
^'Write Sir. B. Frere and Agnes. Send large packet 
of astronomical observations and sketch map to Sir 
T. Maclear by native, Suleiman." 

"July 2)d. — Received note from Oswell, written 
April last, containing the sad news of Sir Roderick's 
departure from amongst us. Alas ! alas ! this is the 
only time in my life I have ever been inclined to use 
the word, and it speaks a sore heart. The best 
friend I ever had — true, warm, abiding. He loved 
me more than I deserved. He looks down on me 
still. I must feel resigned by the Divine Will ; still 
I regret and mourn."* 

*This entry indicates extraordinary depth of emotion. Sir 
Roderick exercised a kind of spell on Livingstone. Respect 
for him was one of the subordinate motives that induced him 
to undertake this journey. The hope of giving him satisfac- 
tion was one of the subordinate rewards to which he looked 
forward. His death was to Livingstone a kind of scientific 
widowhood, and must have deprived him of a great spring to 
exertion in this last wandering. On Sir Roderick's part the 
affection for him was very great. ''Looking back," says his 
biographer. Professor Geikie, "upon his scientific career when, 
not far from its close, Murchison found no part of it which 
brought more pleasing recollections than the support he had 
given tc African explorers — Speke, Grant, and notably Living- 
stone. 'I rejoice,' he said, 'in the steadfast tenacity with which 
I have upheld my confidence in the ultimate success of the 
last-named of these brave men. In fact, it was the confidence 
I placed in the undying vigor of my dear friend Livingstone 
which has sustained me in the hope that I might live to en- 



WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE. 257 

^'July 5^/?.— Weary! weary!" 

"July yth. — Waiting wearily here, and hoping 
that the good and loving Father of all may favor me, 
and help me to finish my work quickly and well. 
Temperature at six a. m. 6i° ; feels cold." Here, as 
though to divert his sad thoughts, comes a vivid de- 
scription of the Makombwe, the hereditary hippo- 
potamus-hunters, and their method of hunting, end- 
ing: "This hunting requires the greatest skill, cour- 
age, and nerve that can be conceived — double-armed 
and three-fold brass, or whatever the 'VTLneid" says. 
The Makombwe. are certainly a magnificent race of 
men, hardy and active in their habits, and well fed, 
as the result of their brave exploits ; being a family 
occupation, it has no doubt helped in producing fine 
physical development. Though all the people 
amongst whom they sojourn would like the profits 
they secure, I have met with no competitors to them 
except the Wayeiye, of Lake Ngami and adjacent 
rivers. I have seen our dragoon officers perform 
fencing and managing their horses so dexterously 
that every muscle seemed trained to its fullest power, 
and perhaps had they been brought up as Makombwe 

joy the supreme delight of welcoming him back to his own 
country.' But that consummation was not to- be. He himself 
was gathered to his rest just six days before Stanley brought 
news and relief to the forlorn traveller on Lake Tanganyika. 
And Livingstone, while still in pursuit of his quest, and within 
ten months of his death, learned in the heart of Africa the 
tidings which he chronicled in his Journal." 



258 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

they might have equaled their daring and consum- 
mate skill. But we have no sport, except perhaps 
Indian tiger shooting, requiring the courage and 
coolness their enterprise demands. The danger may 
be appreciated if one remembers that no sooner is 
blood shed in the water than all the crocodiles below 
are immediately drawn up stream by the scent, and 
are ready to act the part of thieves in a London 
crowd, or worse." 

Then he relieves the weary waiting by a disserta- 
tion on the prospects of a mission station one hun- 
dred miles from the east coast, warmly advocating 
it. "A couple of Europeans beginning a mission 
without a staff of foreign attendants implies coarse 
country fare, it is true, but it would be nothing to 
those who at home amuse themselves with fasts, 
vigils, etc. A great deal of powxr is thus lost to the 
Church. Fastings and vigils without a special ob- 
ject are time run to waste, made to minister to a kind 
of self-gratification instead of being turned to ac- 
count for the good of others. They are like groan- 
ing in sickness. Some people amuse themselves 
when ill by continuous moaning. The forty days of 
Lent might be spent in visiting adjacent tribes, and 
bearing unavoidable hunger and thirst with a good 
grace. Considering the greatness of the end to be 
attained, men might go without sugar, coffee, tea, 
etc.; I went from September, 1866, to December, 
1868, without either." 



WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE. 259 

^^Jiily 1 2 th. — When endeavoring to give some ac- 
count of the slave-trade of East Africa, it was neces- 
sary to keep far within the truth in order not to be 
thought guilty of exaggeration ; but in sober serious- 
ness, the subject does not admit of exaggeration. 
The sights I have seen, though common incidents in 
the traffic, are so nauseous that I strive to drive them 
from my memory. In most cases I can succeed in 
time, but the slaving scenes come back unbidden, and 
make me start up at dead of night, horrified by their 
vividness." 

A long paper of notes on the geology of Central 
Africa serves to while away the time while his escort 
creeps slowly up, and the war all round him between 
the Arabs and Mirambo drags on. One incident in 
this war of the kites and crows may be noted. 

''July lyfh. — Went over to Sultan bin AH yester- 
day. Very kind as usual. He gave me guavas and 
a melon called 'matange.' It is reported that one of 
Mirambo's men, Sorura, set sharp sticks in concealed 
holes, which acted like Bruce's *crow toes' at Ban- 
nockburn, and wounded several. This has induced 
the Arabs to send for a cannon they have, with 
which to batter Mirambo at a distance. The gun is 
borne past us this morning, a brass seven-pounder, 
dated 1679. Carried by the Portuguese commander 
to China in 1679, or one hundred and ninety-three 
years ago, and now used to beat Mirambo by Arabs 
who have very little interest in the war !" 



2G0 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

"July 2ist. — Bought two milch cows with calves 
for seventeen dotis, or thirty- four fathoms. Bagan- 
das packing up to leave for home. They take a good 
deal of brandy and gin for Mtesa from the Moslems. 
Temperature at noon, 96°, Another nest of wag- 
tails flown ; they eat bread-crumbs. I wish my men 
would come and let me off this waiting. , . . 
Some philosophizing is curious. It represents our 
Maker forming the machine of the universe; setting 
it a-going, and able to do nothing more outside cer- 
tain of His own laws. He, as it were, laid the tgg 
of the whole, and, like an ostrich, left it to be hatched 
by the sun. We can control laws, but He cannot! 
A fire set to this house would consume it, but we 
throw on water and consume the fire. We control 
the elements fire and water: is He debarred from 
doing the same, and more, who has infinite wisdom 
and knowledge?" 

At last, on July 31st, he hears that his escort are 
only twelve days off, and notes that he is ''thankful 
even for this in my wearisome waiting." 

''August ^th. — In some parts one is struck by the 
fact of the children having so few games. Life is a 
serious business, and amusement is derived from 
imitating the vocations of the parents — hut building, 
making little gardens, bows and arrows, shields and 
spears. Elsewhere boys are very ingenious little 
fellows, and have several games; they also shoot 
birds with bows, and teach captured linnets to sing. 



WAITING AT UNYANYEMBE, 261 

They make play-guns of reeds, which go off with a 
trigger and spring with a cloud of smoke. The boys 
shoot locusts with small toy guns very cleverlyo A 
couple of rufous, brown-headed, and dirty speckle- 
breasted swallows appeared to-day for the first time 
this season and lighted on the ground. This kind 
builds here in houses, and as far south as Shupanga." 

''August 6th. — Wagtails begin to discharge their 
young, which feed themselves. I can think of noth- 
ing but Vhen will these men come?' Sixty days 
was the period named; now it is eighty- four. It 
may be all for the best in the good providence of the 
Most High." 

"August gth. — I do most devoutly thank the Lord 
for His goodness in bringing my men near to this. 
Three came to-day, and how thankful I am I cannot 
express. It is well ; the men who went with Stanley 
come again to me. 'Bless the Lord, oh, my soul, 
and all that is within me bless His holy Name, 
amen.' " 

"August l$th. — ^The men came yesterday, having 
been seventy-four days from Bagamoio. Most 
thankful I am to the Giver of all good. I have to 
give them a few days' rest, and then start." 

"August 20th. — Weighed all the loads again, and 
gave an equal load of fifty pounds to each, and half 
to the Nassickers. Mabruki Speke is left at Taborah 
with Sultan bin AH. He has long been sick, and 
unable to go with us/' 



262 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

''August 2ist. — Gave people an ox, and to a dis- 
carded wife a cloth, to avoid exposure by her hus- 
band stripping her. She is somebody's child !" 

All is now ready for the start. Once more, for- 
ward, brave old heart ! 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE LAST ADVANCE DEATH. 

1872-73. 

On August 25, 1872, all was ready, and the ol3 

traveller marched out of Unyanyembe at the head of 
a party of fifty-six men sent him by Mr. Stanley. 
''A dutiful son could not have done more than he 
generously did. I bless him." He writes six 
months later to Sir Thomas Maclear and Mr. Mann 
in a last letter, never finished : "The men have be- 
haved as well as Makololo. I cannot award them 
higher praise, though they have not the courage of 
that brave, kind-hearted people." ''Opere peracto 
ludemus," he wrote about the same date to his old 
college friend, Mr. James Young, or Sir Parafine, as 
he playfully called him, ''you remember, in your 
Latin rudiments, 'lang syne.' It is time for you, 
and I rejoice to think it is now your portion, after 
working nobly, to play. May you have a long spell 
of it ! I am differently situated. I shall never be 
able to play. To me it seems to be said, 'If thou for- 
bear to deliver them that are drawn to death, and 
them that are ready to be slain; if thou sayest, 
"Behold we know it not," doth not He that ponder- 
eth the heart consider, and He that keepeth the soul 

?63 



264 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

doth He not know, and shall He not give every man 
according to his works?' I have been led unwit- 
tingly into the slaving field of the Banians and Arabs 
in Central Africa. I have seen the woes inflicted, 
and must still do all I can to expose and mitigate the 
evils. Though hard work is still to be my lot, I look 
genially on others more favored. I would not be a 
member of the International, for I love to think of 
others enjoying life." 

The men who in a few weeks' time were as good 
as Makololo were by no means so at first. On the 
second day two of the Nassickers lost one out of his 
ten cows, and again on August 30th : "The two Nas- 
sickers lost all the cows yesterday from sheer lazi- 
ness. Found a long way off and one cow missing. 
She was our best milker. Susi gave them ten cuts 
each with a switch." The Nassickers, however, were 
in as perfect order as the rest in a few weeks under 
the superb powers of organization and management 
of the old explorer, when he writes to Stanley : "I am 
perpetually reminded that I owe a great deal to you 
for the men you sent. With one exception, the 
party is working like a machine. I give my orders 
to Mwana Sera, and never have to repeat tnem." 

With these fifty-six men and two women, Living- 
stone set out from Unyanyembe on his last march on 
August 25, 1872. It ended on April 30, 1873, i" 
Chitambo's village of Ilala, on the southwestern 
shore of Lake Bangweolo. Those who have fol- 



THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 265 

lowed him on the map in his last journey, when he 
returned baffled and broken down in health from his 
extreme northwestern point on the Lualaba — far up 
in Central Africa, and still doubtful whether he was 
on the sources of the Nile or the Congo — will be sur- 
prised at the southern direction of his last march. 
It seems at first sight to have little bearing on the 
great question, Nile or Congo. His reasons for the 
route chosen seem to have been as follows: From 
careful sifting of the reports of native travellers he 
was inclined to believe that the story told by the 
priest of Minerva to Herodotus, in the temple of 
Sais, of the two conical hills in Central Africa, 
Crophi and Mophi, from the unfathomed fountains 
at whose feet flowed two rivers, the one to the north 
through Egypt, the other to Ethiopia, was worth 
more than the father of history had assigned to it. 
He would satisfy himself as to this by visiting the 
two hills due west of Bangweolo. Then turning 
due north, and visiting the copper mines and under- 
ground excavations in the Katangas country by the 
way, he hoped in twelve days to strike the head of ^ 
the unexplored lake, where he looked for the final 
solution of his doubts. 'Then I hope devoutly to 
thank the Lord of all, and turn my face along Lake 
Kamalondo, and over Lualaba, Tanganyika, Ujiji, 
and home !'' 

This last and crowning expedition would there- 
fore have put a girdle outside his previous explora- 



266 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

tions in these districts, keeping to the westward of 
Lake Moero, and so up north by Lake Lincoln till 
he struck the Lualaba on its west bank, beyond the 
point where he had been foiled and turned back two 
years before. He would have there crossed into the 
Manyuema territory, and returned to his starting- 
point round the northern end of Lake Tanganyika. 
A truly heroic piece of work for a man of sixty, 
worn by previous hardships and subject to a cruel 
and exhausting form of dysentery from over-exer- 
tion or exposure. 

Knowing the event as we do, it is a pathetic task 
to follow him. War was raging over much of the 
district east of Tanganyika through which his path 
lay, adding greatly to the danger and difficulties of 
the march, the people being distrustful and unwilling 
or unable to sell provisions. Sometimes he rode one 
of the donkeys, but as a rule tramped along till Sep- 
tember 2ist, when his old enemy, which had already 
attacked him, had to be seriously met. ''Rest here," 
runs the entry, "as the complaint does not yield to 
medicine or fime ; but I begin to eat now, which is a 
favorable symptom," and then follow notes on the 
habits of kites, and on the gingerbread palm. And 
even as disease gains on him, similar notes on the 
products and people are made day by day, with ob- 
servations, when these could be taken, the direction 
of the route and distance traversed, and the daily 
orders to his men. 



THE LAST ADVANCE-DEATH. 267 

His great loving heart, too, is open all the way. 
Here it is a poor woman of Ujiji who had followed 
one of Stanley's men, and been cast off by him ; '*she 
had quarreled all round; her temper seems too ex- 
citable ; she is somebody's bairn, nevertheless." 

''November iSth. — One of the men picked up a 
little girl, deserted by her mother. As she was be- 
numbed by cold and wet, he carried her, but when I 
came up he threw her into the grass. I ordered a 
man to carry her, and we gave her to one of the 
childless women." 

Every day some of the men are ill and have to be 
cared for, and loads readjusted. The region is for 
the most part desolate all round the southern end of 
Tanganyika. "The population of Myunda must 
have been prodigious, for all the stones have been 
cleared and every available inch of soil cultivated. 
The population are said to have been all swept away 
by the Watuta." 

Food was constantly running short. 

^'November 3J. — We marched to a village where 
food was reported. I had to punish two useless men 
for calling out Tosho ! posho !' rations, as soon as I 
came near. One is a confirmed bange* smoker. 
The blows were given lightly, but I promised that 
the next should be severe." 

Now and then an undisturbed village occurs, or a 
friendly chief. 

*Hemp. 



268 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

'^November 2yth. — As it is Sunday, we stay here 
at N'daris village, for we shall be in an uninhabitable 
tract to-morrow beyond the Lofu. The head-man 
cooked six messes for us, and begged us to remain 
for more food, which we buy. He gave us a hand- 
some present of flour and a fowl, for which I return 
him a present of a doti. Very heavy rain and high 
gusts of wind, which wet us all." The rainy season 
had set in severely, and the hot ground, which had 
scorched their feet on the rocky paths near 
Tanganyika, had turned into a vast sponge or 
swamp on the eastern and southern shores of 
Lake Bangweolo, which they were now approach- 
ing. 

His humor never forsook him, even in these 
dreary days. At a large stream beyond the Lofu "a 
man came to the bridge to ask for toll. As it was 
composed of one stick only, and unfit for our use, 
because rotten, I agreed to pay, provided he made it 
fit for us, but if I remade and enlarged it, I said he 
ought to give me a goat. He slank away, and we 
laid large trees across." 

"2gth. — Chiwe presented us with a small goat 
with crooked legs and some millet flour, but grum- 
bled at the cloth I gave. I offered another fathom 
and a bundle of needles, but he grumbled at this, 
too, and sent it back. On this I returned his goat 
and marched." 

"December Tfd. — We crossed the Kanomba, fifteen 



THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 269 

yards wide and knee deep. Here our guide disap- 
peared. So did the path." 

In December the rains come on, and the whole 
country soon becomes a large sponge. The ominous 
single word '111" appears in the Journal; still every 
stream crossed is entered in his pocket-book, with 
observations when they could be taken, and the 
marching orders, and direction of route. And no 
suffering is allowed to interfere with discipline. 

^'December iGth. — The pugnacious spirit is one of 
the necessities of life. When people have little or 
none of it, they are subjected to indignity and loss. 
My own men walk into houses where we pass the 
night without leave, and steal cassava without shame 
— I have to threaten and thrash to keep them honest ; 
while if we are at a village where the natives are a 
little pugnacious, they are as meek as sucking doves. 
The peace plan involves indignity and wrong. I 
give little presents to the head-men, and to some ex- 
tent heal their hurt sensibilities. This is much ap- 
preciated, and produces profound hand-clapping." 

*' December 24th. — Sent back Chama's arrows" (a 
bundle he had taken two days before), "as his fool- 
ish brother cannot use them against us now. There 
are 215 in the bundle." 

"Christmas Day. — I thank the good Lord for the 
good gift of His Son, Christ Jesus our Lord. 
Slaughtered an ox, and gave a fundo and a half to 
each of the party. This is our great day, so we rest. 



270 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

It is cold and wet, day and night. The head-man is 
gracious and generous, which is very pleasant com- 
pared with awe, awe, and refusing to sell, or stop to 
speak, or show the way." 

"2yth. — I killed a snake, seven feet long, here. 
He reared up before me, and turned to fight. No 
observations possible through most of this month. 
A man ill, and unable to come on, was left all night 
in the rain without fire. Sent men back to carry 
him." 

"2gth or 1st January. — Our man Chipangawazi 
died last night, and was buried this morning ; a good, 
quiet man. I am wrong two days."* 

*In the second week of January they came near Bangweolo, 
and the reign of Neptune became incessant. We are told of 
cold, rainy weather; sometimes a drizzle, sometimes an inces- 
sant pour; swollen streams and increasing sponges — making 
progress a continual struggle. Yet, as he passes through a 
forest, he has an eye to its flowers, which are numerous and 
beautiful : 

"There are many flowers in the forest; marigolds, a white 
jonquil-looking flower without smell, many orchids, white, 
yellow, and pink asclepias, with bunches of French-white 
flowers, clematis — Methonica gloriosa, gladiolus, and blue and 
deep purple polygalas, grasses with white starry seed-vessels, 
and spikelets of brownish red and yellow. Besides these, 
there are beautiful blue flowering bulbs, and new flowers of 
pretty, delicate form and but little scent. To this list may be 
added balsams, compositse of blood-red color and of purple; 
other flowers of liver color, bright canary yellow, pink orchids 
on spikes thickly covered all round, and of three inches in 
length ; spiderworts of fine blue or yellow or even pink. Dif- 
ferent-colored asclepiadesej beautiful yellow and red umbel- 



I 



THE LAST ADVANCE-DEATH. ^^1 

^^ January 8th. — We are near Lake Bangweolo and 
in a damp region." From this time the advance was 
a constant plunging through morasses and across the 
^ many rivers running into Bangweolo. Pushing 
' through deserted villages, ''population all gone from 
the war of Chitoka with Chitunkue," chief of this 
region. ''No astronomical observations worth nam- 
ing during December and January; impossible to 
take any, owing to clouds and rain. It is trying be- 
yond measure to be baffled by the natives lying and 
misleading us wherever they can. They fear us 
very greatly, and with a terror that would gratify an 
anthropologist's heart." 

He could now only travel on the shoulders of 
Susi and others. "The country is covered with 
bracken, and rivulets occur at least one every hour 
of the march. These are now deep, and have a 
broad selvage of sponge." Here is a specimen of 
their difficulties : "Carrying me across one of the 
broad, deep, sedgy rivers is really a very difficult 
task. One we crossed was at least 2,000 feet broad. 
The first part, the main stream, came up to Susi's 
mouth, and wetted my seat and legs. One held up 
my pistol behind, then one after another took a turn ; 
and when he sank into a deep elephant's footprint 
he required two to lift him on to the level, which 

llferous flowering plants ; dill and wild parsnips ; pretty flower- 
ing aloes, yellow and red, in one whorl of blossoms ; peas and 
many other flowering plants which I do' not know." 



272 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

was over waist deep. Others went on, and bent 
down the grass to insure some footing on the side of 
the elephants' path. Every ten or twelve paces 
brought us to a clear stream, flowing fast in its own 
channel, while over all a strong current came bodily 
through all the rushes and aquatic plants. Susi had 
the first spell, then Farijala, then a tall, stout, Arab- 
looking man, then Amoda; and each time I was 
lifted off bodily and put on another pair of broad, 
willing shoulders, and fifty yards puj them out of 
breath. No wonder! It was sore on the women 
folk." 

In February the chance of starvation was added to 
his other trials. 

"ist. — Scouts forced to return by hunger. Killed 
our last calf, and turn back for four days' hard travel 
to Chitunkubwe's. I send men on to bring back 
food." 

''4th. — Camp amongst deserted gardens, which 
afford a welcome supply of cassava and sweet po- 
tatoes. 

"5^/1. — We are now at Chitunkubwe's mercy. 
Returned over those forty-one miles in fifteen hours. 
I got lunars for a wonder. Chitunkubwe is a fine, 
jolly-looking man, of a European cast of counte- 
nance, and very friendly. I gave him two cloths, 
for which he seemed thankful, and promised good 
guides to Matipa's. It seems we have been close to 
human habitations, but did not know it. We have 



THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 273 

lost half a month by this wandering, all owing to the 
unfriendliness of some and the fear of all." 

Discipline never slackens. 

"i4f/i. — Public punishment to Chirango for steal- 
ing beads; fifteen cuts. It was Halimah who in- 
formed on Chirango, as he offered her beads, for a 
cloth, of a kind which she knew had not hitherto 
been taken out of the baggage. This was so far 
faithful in her, but she has an outrageous tongue. I 
remain because of an excessive hsemorrhagic dis- 
charge. If the good Lord gives me favor, and per- 
mits me to finish my work, I shall thank and bless 
Him, though it has cost me untold toil, pain, and 
travel. This trip has made my hair all gray." 

"i6th. — Chitunkubwe's men ran away, refusing to 
wait till we had heard from Matipa," to whom he 
had sent on Susi and Chumah. 

"lyth. — Suffered a furious attack at midnight 
from the red Sirafu or Driver ants. Our cook fled 
first at their onset. I lighted a candle, and remem- 
bering Dr. Van der Kemp's idea that no animal will 
attack man unprovoked, lay still. The first came on 
my foot quietly. Then some began to bite between 
the toes. Then the larger ones swarmed over the 
foot, bit furiously, and made blood start. I went 
out of the tent and was instantly covered as close as 
small-pox (not confluent) on a patient. Grass fires 
were lighted, and my men picked some off my limbs 
and tried to save me. After battling for an hour or 



274 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

two, they took me into a tent not yet invaded, and I 
rested till they came — the pests — and routed me out 
there, too. Then came on a steady pour of rain, as 
if trying to make us miserable. I got back to my 
tent at nine a. m.^"* Then follows a description of 
the habits of this ant: "They remained with us till 
late in the afternoon, and we put hot ashes on the 
defiant hordes. They retire to enjoy the fruits of 
their raid, and come out fresh another day." 

Susi had gone on to Matipa's to negotiate for 
canoes. "We wait, hungry and cold, and hope the 
good Lord will grant us influence with this man. If 
he fails us by fair means, we must seize canoes and 
go by force. The men say fear of me makes them 
act very cowardly. I have gone amongst the whole 
population kindly and fairly, but I fear must now act 
rigidly; for when they hear we have submitted to 
injustice, they at once conclude we are fair game. 
It is, I can declare, not my nature, nor has it been my 
practice, to go as if my back were up." 

^'22d. — I was never in such misty, cloudy weather 
in Africa. No observations can possibly be 
taken." 

"26th. — Susi returned this morning with good 
news from Matipa, who declares his willingness to 
carry us to Kabende for the five bundles of brass 
wire I offered." The canoes arrived next day, but 
the paddlers proposed to embark only half the party 
at onc^, "I refused to divide our force. The good 



THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 275 

Lord help me. They say Matipa is truthful. New 
moon this evening." 

"March ist. — Embarked women and goods in 
canoes, and went three hours S.E. to Bangweolo. 
Heavy rain wetted us all. We went over flooded 
prairies four feet deep, covered with rushes and two 
varieties of lotus or sacred lily; both are eaten, and 
so are papyrus. The men (paddlers) are great cow- 
ards. I took possession of all their paddles and 
punt poles, as they showed an inclination to move off 
from our islet. Plains, extending further than the 
eye can reach, have four or five feet of clear water 
and lake; and adjacent lands, for twenty or thirty 
miles, are level. We are surrounded by scores of 
miles of rushes, an open sward, and many lotus 
plants but no mosquitoes." 

One follows the brave old man, now fast sinking, 
with sore heart but ever-growing admiration. De- 
tained at Matipa's village, he is still gathering infor- 
mation on legends, geography, natural history. 
^'Matipa never heard from any of the elders of his 
people that any of his forefathers ever saw a Euro- 
pean. He knew perfectly about Pereira, Lacerda, 
and Monteiro, going to Casembe, and my coming to 
the islet Mpabala. The following is a small snatch 
of Babisa lore, and told by an old man who came to 
try for some beads, and seemed much interested 
about printing. He was asked if there were any 
marks made on the rocks in any part of the country, 



276 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

and this led to the story. Lukeranga came from the 
west, a long time ago, to the river Lualaba. He 
had with him a little dog. When he wanted to pass 
over, he threw his mat on the water, and this served 
for a raft. When he reached the other side there 
were rocks at the landing-place, and the mark is still 
to be seen on the stone, not only of his foot, but of a 
stick which he cut with his hatchet, and of his dog's 
feet; the name of the place is Achewa." While 
waiting wearily at Matipa's, he moved his camp out 
of the dirty village to the highest point of the island 
for fresher air. 

"March nth. — Matipa says: 'Wait, Kabinga Is 
coming, and he has canoes.' Time is of no value to 
him. His wife is making him pombe, and he will 
drown all his cares; but mine increase and plague 
me. . . . Better news ; the son of Kabinga is to 
be here to-night, and we shall concoct plans to- 
gether." 

''March 12th. — The news was false; no one from 
Kabinga. The men strung beads to-day, and I 
wrote part of my despatch to Earl Granville." 

No canoes or messengers from Kabinga coming. 
Livingstone at last loses patience. 

"iSth. — I made a demonstration by taking quiet 
possession of his village and house; fired a pistol 
through the roof and called my men, ten being left to 
guard the camp." 

''March i^th (his last birthday). — Thanks to the 



THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 277 

Almighty Preserver of men for sparing me thus far. 
Can I hope for ultimate success ? So many obstacles 
have arisen. Let not Satan prevail over me, oh ! my 
good Lord Jesus." 

''2isf. — Gave Matipa a coil of thick brass wire 
and his wife a string of large neck beads, and ex- 
plained my hurry to be off. He is now all fair, and 
promises largely; he has been much frightened by 
our warlike demonstration.. I am glad I had noth- 
ing more to do than make a show of force." At 
last, on the 23d, he gets away. 

"24^/i. — We punted six hours to a little islet with- 
out a tree, and no sooner landed than a pitiless, pelt- 
ing rain came on. We turned up a canoe for shelter. 
We shall reach the Chambeze to-morrow. The 
wind tore the tent out of our hands, and damaged it, 
too. The loads are all soaked, and with the cold it 
is bitterly uncomfortable. A man put my bed in the 
bilge, and never said 'bale out,' so I was safe for a 
wet night ; but it turned out better. No grass, but 
we made a bed of the loads, and a blanket fortu- 
nately put into a bag." 

"2^th. — Nothing earthly will make me give up my 
work in despair. I encourage myself in the Lord 
my God, and go forward." 

Forward ! but with ever-thickening trouble, the 
men hiarching through water, parallel with his 
progress in a canoe. 

''March ^ist, — Sent Kabinga a cloth and a mes- 



278 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

sage, but he is evidently a niggard, like Matipa. 
We must take him as we find him ; there is no use in 
growling. . . . Kabinga, it seems, pleased with 
the cloth — well; will ask for maize from his people 
and buy it for me." 

"April 4th. — Sent over to Kabinga to buy a cow, 
and got a fat one for two and a half dotis, to give 
my people a feast ere we start. The 'kambari' fish 
of the Chambeze is 3 feet 3 inches in length. Two 
others, the 'polwe' and 'lopalakwao,' all go up the 
Chambeze to spawn when the rains begin. Casem- 
be's people make caviare of the spawn of the 
*pumbo.' " 

"5^/^. — March from Kabinga's on the Chambeze, 
our luggage in canoes and men on land. We 
punted on floods 6 feet deep, with many ant-hills all 
about covered with trees. Course S.S.E. for 5 
miles, across River Lobingela, sluggish, 300 yards 
wide." 

"6th. — Leave in same wa)'', but men sent from 
Kabinga to steal the canoes which we paid his 
brother Mateysa handsomely for . . . our party 
separated and we pulled and punted six or seven 
hours in great difficulty, as the fishermen refused to 
tell us w^here deep water lay. . . . It is quite 
impossible to tell where land ends and lake begins. 
It is water, water everywhere. The Nile apparently 
enacting its inundations even at its sources. . . . 
A lion had wandered into this world of water and 



THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 279 

ant-hills, and roared night and morning, as if very 
much disgusted. We could sympathize with him." 

"loth. — I am pale, bloodless,* and weak from 
bleeding profusely ever since 31st of March; an ar- 
tery gives off a copious stream, and takes away my 
strength." 

The party are now all together again and march- 
ing slowly. 

"i8th. — Crossed two large sponges, and I was 
forced to stop at a large village after travelling two 
hours. Very ill all night, but remembered that the 
bleeding and most other ailments in this land are 
forms of fever. Took two scruple doses of quinine, 
and stopped it quite . . . not all pleasure this 
exploration." And then follows the last note on the 
country he seems ever to have made: "The Lavusi 
hills are a relief to the eye in this flat upland. Their 
forms show you an igneous origin. The river 
Kazya comes from them, and goes direct to the lake. 
No observations now, owing to great weakness. I 

*In the beginning of April, the bleeding from the bowels, 
from which he had been suffering, became more copious, and 
his weakness was pitiful ; still he longed for strength to finish 
his work. Even yet the old passion for natural history was 
strong; the aqueous plants that abounded everywhere, the 
caterpillars that after eating the plants ate one another, and 
were such dumsy swimmers ; the fish with the hook-shaped 
lower jaw that enabled them to feed as they skimmed past the 
plants ; the morning summons of the cocks and turtle-doves ; 
the weird scream of the fish eagle — all engaged his interest. 
Observations continued to be taken, and the Sunday services 
were always held. 



280 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

can hardly hold a pencil, and my stick is a burden. 
Tent gone. The men built a good hut for me and 
the luggage." 

From this time, though scarcely conscious, he still 
pushes on. On the 21st he even made an effort to 
ride the donkey, but felj off directly. Chumah threw 
down his gun, ran to stop the men ahead, and on his 
return bent over his master, who said, "Chumah, I 
have lost so much blood, there is no strength left in 
my legs; you must carry me." He was lifted on to 
Chumah's shoulders and carried back to the village. 

''From the 22,d to 26th April/' — No entry but the 
date, but he still struggled forward in the "kitanda" 
(a rough litter). While halting on the latter day, 
though prone with pain and exhaustion, he directed 
Susi to count the bags of beads, and twelve being 
still in stock, directed him to buy two elephants' 
tusks to be exchanged for cloth when they reached 
Ujiji. 

The last entry, on April 27th, runs. : "Knocked up 
quite, and remain — recover — sent to buy milch 
goats. We are on the banks of the Molilamo." The 
goats could not be bought, and on the 29th, in the 
last stage of pain and weakness, he was carried to the 
Molilamo and ferried across. Ilala, the village of 
Chitambo, a friendly chief, was now close by, but 
twice on the way he desired to be left where he was, 
the intense pain of movement having mastered him. 
The last halt was for an hour in the gardens outside. 



THE LAST ADVANCE— DEATH. 281 

While his men prepared the raised bed of sticks and 
grass inside, and banked the hut round, a curious 
crowd gathered round to gaze at the best friend 
Africa had ever had, and was about to lose. Driz- 
zling rain was falling, and a fire was lighted outside 
the door. The boy, Majwara, slept inside the 
tent. 

In the morning Chitambo came, but the dying 
man sent him away, telling him to come next day, 
when he hoped to be able to talk. At eleven p. m. 
Susi was called in by the boy. There was shouting 
in the distance, and Livingstone asked, ''Are our 
men making that noise?" ''No. The people are 
scaring a buffalo from their dura fields." A pause. 
"Is this the Luapula?" "No, Ilala, Chitambo's vil- 
lage." "How many days to the Luapula?" "I 
think three days, Bwana (master)." He dozed off 
again. An hour later Susi again heard the boy's 
"Bwana wants you, Susi." Susi went in; he was 
told to boil water, and then to get the medicine chest 
and hold the candle, and he noticed that his master 
could hardly see. He selected the calomel with diffi- 
culty, and was told to put a cup with water, and an- 
other empty, by the bed. "All right ; you can go out 
now," in a feeble voice, were the last words he heard. 
About four A. M. Majwara came again: "Come to 
Bwana, I am afraid. I don't know if he is 
alive." 

Susi, Chumah, and four others were at the tent- 



282 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

door in a moment. The Doctor was kneeling by the 
bed, his face buried in his hands on the pillow, 
dead.* 

*Then they laid him on a rough bed in the hut, where he 
spent the night. Next day he lay undisturbed. He asked a 
few wandering questions about the country — especially about 
the Luapula. His people knew that the end could not be far 
off. Nothing occurred to attract notice during the early part 
of the night, but at four in the morning, the boy who lay 
at his door called in alarm for Susi, fearing that their master 
was dead. By the candle still burning they saw him, not in 
bed, but kneeling at the bedside with his head buried in his 
hands upon the pillow. The sad yet not unexpected truth 
soon became evident: he had passed away on the furthest of 
all his journeys, and without a single attendant. But he had 
died in the act of prayer — prayer offered in that reverential 
attitude about which he was always so particular ; commend- 
ing his own spirit, with all his dear ones, as was his wont, 
into the hands of his Saviour; and commending Africa — his 
own dear Africa — with all her woes and sins and wrongs, to 
the Avenger of the oppressed and the Redeemer of the lost. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

CONCLUSION. 

There can be no doubt that David Livingstone, 
as he knelt by the rude bed at Ilala, and commended 
his soul to God in the early morning of May i, 1873, 
looked on himself as a beaten man. He had set his 
heart on finishing off his work in this last journey. 
When he had fixed the details, while waiting at 
Unyanyembe for his men, he writes : ''This route 
will serve to certify that no other sources of the Nile 
can come from the south without being seen by me. 
No one will cut me out after this exploration is ac- 
complished, and may the good Lord of all help me 
to show myself one of His stout-hearted servants, an 
honor to my children, and perhaps to my country 
and race." No one can cut me out after this is 
done! There is a trace of natural human weakness 
in the phrase, and as the toilsome journey went on, 
and strength, though not heart, was failing, there 
are entries in the Journal such as this on his last 
birthday: ''March igth. — Thanks to the Almighty 
Preserver of men for sparing me thus far. Can I 
hope for ultimate success ? So many obstacles have 
arisen. Let not Satan prevail over me, oh ! my good 
Lord Jesus." 



284 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

A. feeling which no one would call morbid, but for 
which it is difficult to find the precise phrase, un- 
doubtedly grew upon him in these last months, that 
he was engaged in a personal encounter with a per- 
sonal power of evil, in which death on the road 
would mean defeat. 

Has not the experience of every martyr been the 
same ? The more perfect the self-sacrifice in life, the 
more surely would this shadow seem to have hung 
over the last hours of the world's best and bravest, 
the only perfect life being not only no exception, but 
the great exemplar of the law. It is written : "Ex- 
cept a grain of wheat die it beareth no fruit." Never 
were those mighty words illustrated more perfectly 
than in the death of David Livingstone. The first 
fruits ripened within a few hours of the master's 
death. Susi and Chumah called the men together 
outside the hut. Not a man of the fifty-six faltered 
for a moment ; they had learned much in those nine 
months. "You are old men," they said, "in travel- 
ling and hardships. You must be our chiefs. We 
will do whatever you order." 

Susi and Chumah justified the trust. The body 
and all the property must be carried back to Zanzi- 
bar. So they resolved, and so it was done. 

They buried the heart and entrails under a tree, on 
which Jacob Wainwright, one of the Nassicker boys, 
the scholar of the party, carved the name and date ; 
Chitambo, who behaved in a most friendly way, 



CONCLUSION. 285 

promising to keep the grass cut and the grave re- 
spected. They then dried the body and packed it in 
bark, the process keeping them fourteen days. 
Jacob Wainwright made an inventory of the con- 
tents of the two special tin cases, impervious to water 
and ants. "In the chest," it runs, 'Svas found about 
a shining and -J, and in other chest his hat, i watch, 
and 2 small boxes of measuring instrument, and in 
each box there was one — i compass, 3 other kind of 
measuring instrument, 4 other kind of measuring in- 
strument, and in other chest 3 drachmas and half 
half-scrople." Besides these, there were his rifles, 
sextants, Bible and church-service, and a number of 
note-books filled with observations. All were cata- 
logued, and on February 15, 1874, delivered to the 
English Consul at Zanzibar, not an article missing 
except some of the instruments. These had been 
taken out by Lieutenant Cameron, commanding one 
of the search-expeditions, on their arrival at Unyan- 
yembe on October 20th. The Lieutenant advised 
the burial of the body in Africa. Livingstone, in 
sight of a forest-grave in June, 1868, had written: 
"This is the sort of grave I should prefer ; to lie in 
the still, still forest, and no hand ever to disturb my 
bones. Poor Mary lies on Shupanga brae, and beeks 
forenent the sun." But the faithful bearers would 
not hear of this. They had allowed bulk to be 
broken, and the familiar instruments taken out, 
but the body of their master must be taken back 



286 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

to his old home, far away across the great 
waters. 

Thus they carried Livingstone to the sea, through 
swamp, desert, and all the intervening tribes — super- 
stitious, destitute, often hostile — with only one col- 
lision, when they were attacked first and had to 
storm a village. The story stands alone in history. 
The ten thousand had Xenophon still alive to lead 
them back, and they were soldiers and Greeks; but 
Livingstone was dead, and his men negroes, and 
most of them recently freed slaves.* 

*0n the whole, their progress was wonderfully quiet and 
regular. Everywhere they found that the news of the Doctor's 
death had got before them. At one place they heard that a 
party of Englishmen, headed by Dr. Livingstone's son, on 
their way to relieve his father, had been seen at Bagamoio 
some months previously. As they approached Unyanyembe, 
they learned that the party was there, but when Chuma ran 
on before, he was disappointed to find that Oswell Living- 
stone was not among them. Lieutenant Cameron, Dr. Dillon, 
and Lieutenant Murphy were there, and heard the tidings of 
the men with deep emotion. Cameron wished them toi bury 
the remains where they were, and not run the risk of convey- 
ing them through the Ugogo country; but the men were in- 
flexible, determined to carry out their first intention. This 
was not the only interference with these devoted and faithful 
men. Considering how carefully they had gathered all Liv- 
ingstone's property, and how conscientiously, at the risk of 
their lives, they were carrying it to the coast, to transfer it to 
Ithe British Consul there, it was not warrantable in the new- 
'comers to take the boxes from them, examine their contents, 
and carry off a part of them. Nor do we think Lieutenant 
Cameron was entitled to take away the instruments with 
which all Livingstone's observations had been made for a 
series of seven years, and use them, though only temporarily. 



CONCLUSION. 2S7 

From Zanzibar his bones were carried on board 
the Queen's ship "Calcutta" to Aden, from thence 
by P. and O. boat to Southampton, where they wxre 
received with all honor, and forwarded by special 
train to London on April i6, 1874.* They were 
examined by Sir William Fergusson, identified by 
the false joint in the arm, and buried in the centre 
of the nave of Westminster Abbey on April 19th, 
while the heart of England swelled with grief and 
pride over one of her noblest sons. 

A few w^ords as to the fruit that grain of martyr- 
wheat has borne in the last sixteen years, and the 
prospect of the harvest in 1889, may fitly close our 
sketch. The Universities Mission claims the first 
place. We have seen the enthusiasm with which 
Livingstone's words had been welcomed at Cam- 
bridge in 1858, 'T know that in a few years I shall 

for the purpose of his Expedition, inasmuch as he thereby- 
made it impossible so to reduce Livingstone's observations as 
that correct results should be obtained from them. 

*To many persons it had appeared so incredible that the 
remains should have been brought from the heart of Africa 
♦to London, that some conclusive identification of the body 
seemed to be necessary to set all doubt at rest. The state ot 
the arm, the one that had been broken by the lion, supplied 
the crucial evidence. "Exactly in the region of the attach- 
ment of the deltoid to the humerus" (said Sir William Fer- 
gusson in a contribution to the Lancet, April 18, 1874), "there 
were the indications of an oblique fracture. On moving the 
arm there were the indications of an ununited fracture. A 
closer identification and dissection displayed the false joint 
that had so long ago been so well recognized by those who 
had examined the arm in former days, . . ." 



288 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

be cut off in that country, which is now open — do 
not let it be shut again"; how the first gallant ad- 
vance led by Bishop Mackenzie, in 1861, ended in his 
death and the retirement of the headquarters of the 
mission to Zanzibar under his successor ; how the old 
pioneer mourned over that retreat. He did not live 
to see that temporary abandonment of the mainland 
justify itself. From the island centre at Zanzibar 
the Mission has now spread over one thousand miles 
of the neighboring mainland. Its staff, including 
the bishop and three archdeacons, numbers ninety- 
seven, of whom two deacons and thirty-two teachers 
and readers are natives, and nineteen English ladies. 
Its income for 1887 exceeded £15,500. It has three 
stations on the island and ten on the mainland. The 
island stations are : ( i ) The old slave-market in the 
town of Zanzibar, from which the needs of all the 
stations are supplied as far as means allow, and in 
which are the bishop's residence, when in rare inter- 
vals he rests from his circuit, the theological school, 
and a large dispensary; (2) Kiungani, where there 
is a boys' training-school; (3) Mbweni, with its 
, girls' school and native settlement of freed slaves, 
for years a great expense, but now not only self- 
supporting but contributing not a little to the ex- 
penses of the Mission by the carpentering and other 
work done there for the mainland stations. These 
mainland stations fall naturally into three districts — 
the Rovuma, the Nyassa and the Magila. There 



CONCLUSION. 289 

are four stations in the Rovuma district, besides 
schools and preaching-huts in many neighboring vil- 
lages, and six English workers. The superior chief 
of the dominant tribe, Barnaba Matuka by name, is 
a convert and a hearty supporter, and there is a large 
school to which the sons of chiefs and the richer 
natives come as boarders. ''About twenty boys sat 
down with us to dinner every day," Bishop Smythies 
writes in his last report. The chief drawback to this 
district is the fear of raids by the Gwangwara, but 
since 1883 there has been no hostile action on the 
part of this fierce tribe, who have been visited by 
several of the missionaries at the risk of their lives. 

The chief station of the Nyassa district is on the 
island of Lukoma, in the middle of the lake. Here, 
and at the two neighboring stations on the east coast, 
nine Englishmen are at work under Archdeacon 
Maples, one of whom, the Rev. W. P. Johnson, trav- 
els up and down the eastern lake-shore in the 
"Charles Janson" steamer, named after a well-loved 
missionary (''our saintly brother," the bishop calls 
him), who died on the station some years back. "I 
hope our cabin," Mr. Johnson writes, "will become 
more and more of a school class-room and chapel, 
though it must be a saloon, sleeping-room, library 
and pantry as well. Several signs of real spiritual 
influence spreading have encouraged us all." 

The third, or Magila, district lies in Usumbara. 
some eighty miles to the north of Zanzibar, and is 



290 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

worked by nineteen English under Archdeacon 
Farlen There are four stations, Magila being the 
central one, which has a fine stone church and a 
home for one hundred and fifteen boys. Peace and 
security reign now all round the Mission.* A mar- 
ket, attended regularly by from two to three thou- 
sand traders, is established close by. ''The place is 
the scene of the busiest activity; English working- 
men of several trades are here surrounded by Afri- 
can apprentices, and the African is not only taught 
to read and brought to know God and His love, but 
is now willing to work regularly for daily wages." 
A sisterhood trains large classes of women. ''Three 
of our most promising teachers," says the last Re- 
port, "are Mahomedan converts." The difficulty 
of getting hold of the boys, who at first went off 
whenever they were spoken to, has been overcome, 
one is glad to learn, by the Rev. J. C. Key. He en- 
ticed some of the older boys to play football, and 
"when they have thoroughly enjoyed that there is 
some chance of their coming regularly to school. So 
it is distinctly part of one's work, even in a tropical 
climate, to play football and amuse children that one 
may win them." One more extract from the Arch- 
deacon's letters may be given, in view of recent dis- 
cussion. "In a number of villages in the neighbor- 
hood of this station, where I remember seeing a 
mosque a few years ago, there is now a schof?*' 

^November, 1888. All is now changed (March, 1889). 



CONCLUSION. 291 

chapel, while the mosques have fallen down and no 
one rebuilds them." 

A glance at the map will show that while the Uni- 
versities Mission has returned to the mainland, and 
to the scene of some of Livingstone's best work, it 
has abandoned the Shire district in which it was first 
planted, where are the graves of four out of the five 
leaders,* and from which Mr. Horace Waller, the 
survivor, led away the remnant of freed men and 
children to the Cape in 1864. 

These Shire highlands and the district beyond 
them, between the western shore of Lake Nyassa and 
the eastern of Lake Bangweolo, had been very dear 
to Livingstone. In the former was the spot he had 
chosen for the first station of the Universities Mis- 
sion, and here his Makololo followers had settled ; in 
the latter was the grave at Ilala, where he ended his 
course and his heart was buried in 1874. If these 
were to be left as the hunting-ground of the Arab 
slave-dealers, success in other districts would have 
lost half its worth. 

Happily, this has not been so. The Universities 
Mission has only not returned to them because they 
have been occupied by Livingstone's own country- 
men. As early as 1863 the Free Kirk had sent the 
Rev. Jas. Stewart as a commissioner to report on the 
prospects of missionary work in Nyassaland. He 

*Bishop Mackenzie, Rev. H. Scudamore, Rev. H. Burrows, 
and Dr. Dickenson. 



292 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

stayed with Bishop Mackenzie and examined the dis- 
trict; but the collapse of the first effort made him 
advise delay; meantime he had become the head of 
the Missionary College of Lovedale in South Africa. 
When the news of Livingstone's death thrilled Eng- 
land and Scotland in 1874 it wa3 felt that the time 
had come. The advance was sounded by Dr. Stew- 
art, and, laying aside all ecclesiastical rivalries, the 
Established Church joined hands with the Free and 
United Presbyterian Churches in ''The Mission to 
Nyassa.'' Nobly has that mission been carried out, 
and promptly. In May, 1875, Mr. 'Young, who had 
so ably commanded the search for Livingstone, led 
the advance guard up the Zambesi and Shire to the 
Murchison Falls, carrying a steamer, the "Hala," in 
sections. These were carried past the sixty miles of 
rapids by the Makololo. ''Eight hundred of these 
men worked, and worked desperately for us," Mr. 
Young records, "free as air to come or go as they 
pleased, over a road which furnished at almost every 
yard an excuse for an accident or hiding-place for 
thief or deserter, and yet at the end of sixty miles 
we had everything delivered up to us unhurt and 
untampered with, and every man merry and content 
with his well-earned wages." 

The "Hala" was put together on the Upper Shire, 
and is still running on Lake Nyassa. That same 
year a central station was founded and named Blan- 
tyre, on the Shire highlands, half-way between the 



CONCLUSION. 293 

two deserted stations of the Universities Mission. 
It has grown into a powerful settlement, marching 
with the Makololo territory, and extending its in- 
fluence up to the lake. There is a large school with 
seventy-five boarders, twenty-five being the sons of 
chiefs. The neighborhood is well cultivated, all 
tropical fruits abound in the gardens, and tea and 
coffee plantations have been successfully started. 
Besides the church and school, there are four brick 
houses; £30,000 has been expended at Blantyre. 
There are sub-stations at N'derani, where is a school 
of one hundred taught by natives under the superin- 
tendence of Mr. Scott, the head missionary, and his 
staff, and at Zomba, on the small lake Shirwa. 
Here, in the Shire highlands, the Established Church 
of Scotland has paused, while her sister Churches 
have carried on the work to the north all along the 
three hundred and sixty miles of the western shore 
of Lake Nyassa. Their southernmost station is on 
the bold promontory at the south end of the lake, 
named Cape Maclear by Livingstone ; their northern, 
Mweniwanda, forty miles on the road to Lake Tan- 
ganyika. The most important station between these 
two on the western coast is Bandawe, almost oppo- 
site to the island of Lukoma, the station of the Uni- 
versities Mission, and in the country of the Angoni, 
the most warlike tribe of this part of Africa. These, 
as a rule, haughtily disdain to listen to the Gospel, 
but allow great numbers of their children to atten'd 



294 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

the missionary schools, and themselves use freely the 
services of the medical missions. These have been 
established at each station under four ordained medi- 
cal men, and their progress may be judged by the 
fact that between 1882 and 1884 the registered num- 
ber of patients rose from two to ten thousand yearly 
at Bandawe, the chief medical station. In the 
twelve years Scotland has sent out forty-three of her 
sons and daughters, ten of whom have died at their 
posts, and has expended £45,000 and upward on the 
Mission, the annual outlay being now upward of 
£4,000. Perhaps the most noteworthy of all the 
Scotch missionary work has been done amongst the 
Angoni by Caffre pupils of Dr. Stewart, trained at 
Lovedale and sent amongst this tribe, who still retain 
the Caffre tongue in their northern home. 

Not content with missionary work, Livingstone's 
countrymen have been developing legitimate trade, 
which he held to be only next in importance. The 
African Lakes Company, founded to assist the Mis- 
sions and substitute free industries for the slave- 
trade, have been at work now for more than twelve 
years. 

The Company started on a small scale, and have 
steadily pushed on, with all the shrewdness and per- 
sistence of their race, until they have twelve trading- 
stations — the southernmost, Kongone, at the princi- 
pal mouth of the Zambesi ; the northernmost, Pam- 
bete, at the southern end of Lake Tanganyika. They 



CONCLUSION. 295 

have thus gone far ahead of the Scotch Missions, 
having crossed the district between the two lakes, 
over which they have made a road, named Steven- 
son's, after one of the pioneers. They have three 
steamers on the Zambesi, Shire and Lake Nyassa, 
and have transported a fourth for the London Mis- 
sionary Society to Lake Tanganyika. They buy 
ivory, india-rubber, wax, oil and other products 
from the natives, and have introduced indigo, tea, 
coffee, chinchona and other valuable plants. Hith- 
erto they have succeeded in stopping the liquor traffic 
in the lake districts. 

Side by side with the Company, the firm of 
Buchanan Brothers is doing the very work which 
Livingstone longed to see begun in the Shire high- 
lands, and on their plantations are growing coffee, 
sugar and chinchona by native labor, thus pitting 
freedom against slavery in the most critical point on 
the whole Dark Continent. Their plantations are, 
in fact, an offshoot of the Mission, the senior partner 
having gone out as gardener with the first mission- 
aries. Their plantations, of one, two and three 
thousand acres, respectively, are on lands granted by 
native chiefs, at Blantyre and on Mount Zomba, 
where the firm have built a house for the Consul 
whom England still maintains there. 

Lastly, the Church Missionary Society has taken 
ground to the northwest, on Lakes Tanganyika and 
Victoria Nyanza, On each of thes^ they have ^ 



396 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Steamer, and in spite of the murder of the first bishop 
have managed to hold their own, though obHged to 
abandon the station at Ujiji, where Arab influence 
is paramount. Besides their stations on Victoria 
Nyanza they have an island on Tanganyika, and an- 
other station on the highlands to the south of that 
lake. 

Such, then, is the position which British devotion 
and energy have won on the scene of Livingstone's 
labors in East Central Africa. The general result 
may be given in the words of an African explorer by 
no means inclined to be an indulgent critic of mis- 
sionary work :* 'The steamers of British Missionary 
Societies may now be seen plying on Tanganyika 
and Nyassa, the Upper Congo, the Niger, Binne and 
Zambesi. , . . To British missionaries many 
districts of tropical Africa owe the orange, lime, 
mango, the cocoanut palm and pineapple, improved 
breeds of poultry, pigeons and many useful vege- 
tables. . . . The arrival of the first missionary 
is like that of one of the strange, half-mythical per- 
sonalities which figured in the legends of old Ameri- 
can empires, the beneficent being who introduces 
arts and manufactures, implements of husbandry, 
edible fruits, medical drugs, cereals and domestic 
animals. . . „ They have made 200 translations 
of the Bible in native languages, w^ith grammars and 
dictionaries." These results, however, have not been 

♦Mr. H. H. Johnston, Nineteenth Century, 1887, p. 723. 



CONCLUSION. 297 

attained without rousing alarm, enmity and open 
antagonism. The Arab traders scattered all over 
Central Africa have, from the first, recognized the 
fact that the success of British missionary and com- 
mercial stations and plantations meant in time the 
certain extinction of the slave-trade, by which their 
profits are made, and have used every means of ex- 
citing the fears and jealousies of the native tribes 
and chiefs. They have never ceased trying to rouse 
the tribes to drive out the missionaries, but hitherto 
with no success. Indeed, so far as the Lake Nyassa 
district is concerned, there were signs till lately that 
the leading Arabs were abandoning the slave-trade, 
or carrying it into other districts. 

But a great change in the situation has occurred 
during the last year, and a crisis has arisen which 
has brought to a head the Central and East African 
controversy between cross and crescent, the slave- 
trade and free industry. No Englishman will doubt 
the final issue : 

"Set the two forces foot to foot, , 

And every man knows who'll be winner, ' 

Whose faith in God has any root 

That goes down deeper than his dinner." 

But it is equally certain that the victory has yet to be 
won, and will not be won easily. 

In this crisis — in these early months of 1889 in its 
acute phase, and changing almost from day to day 
— the noblest and wisest missionary work which 



^98 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

England has ever done is in sore jeopardy. It is well 
that this should be known and taken to heart as 
widely as possible. Had no disturbing influences 
come from outside, the battle was practically won in 
the districts of the Universities Central African 
Mission. 

Under the influence of Sir John Kirk and his suc- 
cessor, and of Bishops Sterne and Smythies, the Sul- 
tan of Zanzibar had become a loyal friend to the 
English Missions and traders on the coast, where his 
authority was acknowledged. From the Rovuma in 
the south to Usumbara in the north, it was exercised 
frankly in their favor, until every mission station 
had become a centre of civilization, from which 
peace and order were spreading. Even in the in- 
land, or Nyassa, district, where that authority was 
scarcely recognized, the progress was little less satis- 
factory. 

The storm has now, however, burst upon them 
from two quarters, wath the result that in these early 
months of 1889 the men at most of the Missions are 
bravely holding on at the risk of their lives, and the 
women have been warned by the English Consul to 
withdraw to Zanzibar. The causes of this outbreak 
are several. First, the temporary collapse of the 
Congo Free State in the far northwest. This has 
revived the internal slave-trade. The Arabs, after 
taking the chief station on the Upper Congo, have 
established their supremacy in all the country west 



CONCLUSION. 299 

and south of Lake Tanganyika, while their triumph 
has been marked by massacres as atrocious as those 
witnessed by Livingstone in 1871 on the Lualaba. 
' As was to be looked for, the wave then swept east- 
ward, and in the late autumn of 1887 broke on the 
country in which are the northwesternmost stations 
of the Free Church of Scotland and the Central 
African Company. In the autumn of 1887 the Arab 
invasion came down the Stevenson road, and, after 
carrying fire and slaughter into the tribes bordering 
on the road, on November 3d appeared in force 
before the African Lakes Company's station of Ka- 
ronga. At that moment there were only two white 
men there, one being a missionary, the other a ser- 
vant of the African Lakes Company. On the 4th, 
fortunately, the steamer brought up Mr. Sharp, an 
elephant hunter, and two others, and on the 6th Con- 
sul Hawes and Mr. Nicoll, the agent of the African 
Lakes Company, came in. They were just in time, 
for within a few days they were closely besieged, 
seven Englishmen with a crowd of native fugitives. 
They had sixty-four guns in all, but for sixteen of 
these, which were chassepots, only eight rounds of 
cartridge. After a fortnight of constant alarms, the 
Arabs tried to storm on the 23d and 24th, but were 
beaten back. On the 26th a stockade which the 
Arabs had thrown up close to the defense works was 
gallantly fired by two natives and entirely destroyed. 
On the 27th the siege was raised on the approach of 



300 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

a large native force from the north, which had ral- 
lied for the succor of the station. Through 1888 
the Company have been able to hold their own, but it 
is very doubtful how long they may be able to do so. 

Again, the recent revolution in Uganda has 
brought that vast district practically once more 
under Arab control. The English Church Missions 
and the French Missions have had to be abandoned, 
and their stations and goods, including large sup- 
plies and an accumulation of letters waiting for Mr. 
Stanley, have been destroyed. 

But the sorest trial and greatest danger have come 
from the coast, and from an unexpected quarter. 
Under the treaty, which was the result of the hunger 
of the nations of Europe for African territory (so 
remarkably developed since the opening of the Suez 
Canal), the protectorate over this section of the east 
coast, including the Rovuma and Usumbara dis- 
tricts, has passed to the Germans. It is useless to in- 
quire how the assent of England was gained to this 
arrangement. It has been given, and the two coun- 
tries are now in alliance blockading the coast for the 
suppression of the slave-trade and of the importa- 
tion of firearms and spirits. 

Unhappily, the German Government had little 
sympathy with the national aspiration which resulted 
in this treaty and protectorate, so a commercial com- 
pany was entrusted with the work of colonization 
within the German sphere of influence. Utterly 



CONCLUSION. 301 

unused to such work, without settlements or stations 
in the country, with no sympathy for the natives, and 
eager only for the gains which it was supposed 
would pour in from these rich tropical lands, the 
German African Company have made a complete 
failure. It is needless to dwell on their high-handed 
proceedings, which have roused the whole country 
and banded the whole native and Arab population 
together against the Germans. The Company have 
practically acknowledged their failure by appealing 
to the German Parliament for help. In the last few 
weeks this has been granted, but in an utterly inade- 
quate and half-hearted way. A sum of £100,000 
only has been voted, with which Captain Wissman is 
to equip and organize a force to bring the coast into 
order and subjection! The Government will take 
no further responsibility in the matter than the ap- 
pointment of a commissioner to report at home on 
the Company's doings. For the rest. Prince Bis- 
marck declares that he "never was a man for colo- 
nies," and has grave apprehensions as to this Afri- 
can adventure; ''Germany being now there must 
stay, but will take no step in East Africa which Eng- 
land disapproves." She has the experience which 
Germany needs, and the two countries are "wedded 
together" in their policy now, as they have been for 
one hundred and fifty years ! 

Such assurances will take Englishmen by surprise, 
as the great Chancellor's attitude toward England 



302 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

has scarcely of late been cordial, still less deferen- 
tial. They should, nevertheless, be frankly welcomed 
by England. For, shrink from it as we may, it 
stands out on the face of recent history that this 
burthen is one which in God's providence we have to 
bear. We cannot withdraw from East Africa if we 
would, and let us hope that if we could there are few 
Englishmen who would be cowardly enough to coun- 
sel so unworthy a step ; on the other hand, we cannot 
now carry out the work single-handed, for already 
four European Powers, besides Turkey, are engaged 
on the problem. Of these, Portugal is still, as she 
was in Livingstone's day, openly conniving at the 
slave-trade, and has been asserting a claim to close 
the Zambesi, on which she has never had a station 
higher than Tette, and the Shire, which she has 
never explored, and on which she has no station. 
The French, sad to say, are also conniving at the 
ocean slave-trade on the east coast, and, moreover, 
will never work with us while we remain in Egypt, 
The Italians have their hands full far north of Zan- 
zibar, and of the English and German ''spheres of 
influence" where the problem has to be solved. The 
Germans remain. We are in alliance with them 
already so far as the blockade is concerned, and their 
Emin Pacha is still standing manfully to the work 
which our Gordon left to him in the Soudan. They 
have already tried their own way and failed. Is it 
too much to hope that the strong old Chancellor, the 



CONCLUSION. 303 

tnost thoroughly representative man whom Germany 
has bred since Luther, may be speaking his nation's 

(mind when he decla|-es that in the future "Germany 
will take no step in East Africa which England dis- 

>' approves" ? 

It may be too good news to be true ; but it is worth 
accepting as though it were true, and straining every 
nerve, and making any sacrifice, short of abandoning 
Livingstone's principles and methods with the na- 
tives, to make it so. May the noble band of Eng- 
lishmen, clerical and lay, who are following so faith- 
fully the path which Livingstone, Mackenzie and 
Hannington, and the brave men, their fellow-work- 
ers, have trod before them, recognize this as the pres- 
ent duty which God who has called them to this 
mighty and beneficent task now requires of them; 
and may He who alone can order the unruly wills of 
statesmen and nations, keep England and Germany 
true to the mission they have undertaken! Then 
one of the darkest pages in the world's dark history 
v/ill have been turned, and our children, if not we, 
may see a redeemed Africa. 



[the end.] 



APPENDIX 



"Droop half-mast colors, bow, bareheaded crowds, 
As this plain coffin o'er the side is slung. 
To pass by woods of masts and ratlined shrouds. 
As erst by Afric's trunks, liana-hung. 

"'Tis the last mile of many thousands trod 
With failing strength but never-faiHng will. 
By the worn frame, now at its rest with God, 
That never rested from its fight with ill. 

"Or if the ache of travel and of toil 

Would sometimes wring a short, sharp cry of pain 
From agony of fever, blain, and boil, 
'Twas but to crush it down and on again! 

"He knew not that the trumpet he had blown 
Out of the darkness of that dismal land. 
Had reached and roused an army of its own 
To strike the chains from the slave's fettered hand. 

"Now we believe, he knows, sees all is well ; 

How God had stayed his will and shaped his way, 
To bring the light to those that darkling dwell 
With gains that life's devotion well repay. 

"Open the Abbey doors and bear him in 

To sleep with king and statesman, chief and sage. 
The missionary come of weaver-kin, 
But great by work that brooks no lower wage. 

"He needs no epitaph to guard a name 

Which men shall prize while worthy work is known ; 
He lived and died for good — ^be that his fame: 
Let marble crumble: this is Living — stone." 

— Punch. 
90S 



306 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

"London, Feb. i8th, 1874. 

"Dear Miss Livingstone, — I am only one of all 
England which is feeling with you and for you at this 
moment. 

"But Sir Bartle Frere encourages me to write to you. 

"We cannot help still yearning to hear of some hope 
that your great father may be still alive. 

"God knows ; and in knowing that He knows who is 
all wisdom, goodness, and power, we must find our 
rest. 

"He has taken away, if at last it be as we fear, the 
greatest man of his generation, for Dr. Livingstone 
stood alone. 

"There are few enough, but a few statesmen. There 
are few enough, but a few great in medicine, or in art, 
or in poetry. There are a few great travellers. But 
Dr. Livingstone stood alone as the great Missionary 
Traveller, the bringer-in of civilization; or rather the 
pioneer of civilization — he that cometh before — to races 
lying in darkness. 

"I always think of him as what John the Baptist, 
had he been living in the nineteenth century, would 
have been. 

"Dr. Livingstone's fame was so world-wide that 
there were other nations who understood him even 
better than we did. 

"Learned philologists from Germany, not at all 
orthodox in their opinions, have yet told me that Dr. 
Livingstone was the only man who understood races, 
and how to deal with them for good ; that he was the 
one true missionary. We cannot console ourselves for 
our lc>ss. He is irreplaceable. 



APPENDIX. 307 

"It is not sad that he should have died out there. 
Perhaps it was the thing, much as he yearned for home, 
that was the fitting end for him. He may have felt it 
so himself. 

"But would that he could have completed that which 
he offered his life to God to do ! 

"If God took him, however, it was that his life was 
completed in God's sight; his work finished, the most 
glorious work of our generation. 

"He has opened those countries for God to enter in. 
He struck the first blow to abolish a hideous slave- 
trade. 

"He, like Stephen, was the first martyr. 

" 'He climbed the steep ascent of heaven. 
Through peril, toil, and pain; 
O God ! to us may grace be given 
To follow in his train!' 

"To US it is very dreary, not to have seen him again, 
that he should have had none of us by him at the last ; 
no last word or message. 

"I feel this with regard to my dear father and one 
who was more than mother to me, Mrs. Bracebridge, 
who went with me to the Crimean war, both of whom 
were taken from me last month. 

"How much more must we feel it, with regard to our 
great discoverer and hero, dying so far off ! 

"But does he regret it? How much he must know 
now ! how much he must have enjoyed ! 

"Though how much we would give to know his 
thoughts, alone with God, during the latter days of his 
Jife, 



308 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

"May we not say, with old Baxter (somethii 
alte-red from that verse) ? 

" 'My knowledge of that life is small. 
The eye of faith is dim; 
But 'tis enough that Christ knows all, 
And he will be with Him.' 

"Let us think only of him and of his present happi- 
♦ness, his eternal happiness, and may God say to us : 
'Let not your heart be troubled.' Let us exchange a 
'God bless you,' and fetch a real blessing from God in 
saying so. 

"Florence Nightingale/^ 

In glancing at these results of Livingstone's in- 
fluence in the mission field, we must not forget that of 
all his legacies to Africa by far the highest was the 
spotless name and bright Christian character which 
have become associated everywhere with its great mis- 
sionary explorer. From the first day of his sojourn in 
Africa to the last, "patient continuance in well-doing'^ 
was the great charm through which he sought, with 
God's blessing, to win the confidence of Africa. Before 
the poorest African he maintained self-restraint and 
self-respect as carefully as in the best society at home. 
No prevailing relaxation of the moral code in those 
wild, dark regions ever lowered his tone or lessened his 
regard for the proprieties of Christian or civilized life. 
Scandal is so rampant among the natives of Africa that 
even men of high character have sometimes suffered 
from its lying tongue; but in the case of Livingstone 
there was such an enamel of purity upon his character 
that no filth could stick to it, and none was thrown. 



APPENDIX. -509 

tVhat Livingstone did in order to keep his won' to his 
poor attendants was a wonder in Africa, as it was the 
admiration of the world. His way of trusting them, 
too, was singularly winning. He would go up to a 
fierce chief, surrounded by his grinning warriors, with 
the same easy gait and kindly smile with which he 
would have approached his friends at Kuruman or 
Hamilton. It was the highest tribute that the slave- 
traders in the Zambesi district paid to his character 
when for their own vile ends they told the people that 
they were the children of Livingstone. It was the 
charm of his name that enabled Mr. E. D. Young, 
while engaged in founding the Livingstonia settlement, 
to obtain six hundred carriers to transport the pieces of 
the Ilala steamer past the Murchison Cataracts, carry- 
ing loads of great weight for forty miles, at six yards 
of calico each, without a single piece of the vessel being 
lost or thrown away. The noble conduct of the band 
that for eight months carried his remains toward the 
coast was a crowning proof of the love he inspired. 

That early and life-long prayer of Livingstone^ s — 
that he might resemble Christ — was fulfilled in no ordi- 
nary degree. It will be an immense benefit to all 
future missionaries in Africa that, in explaining to the 
people what practical Christianity means, they will have 
but to point to the life and character of the man whose 
name will stand first among African benefactors in 
centuries to come. A foreigner has remarked that, "in 
the nineteenth century, the white has made a man out 
of the black; in the twentieth century, Europe will 
make a world out of Africa.'^ When that world is 
made, and ^feneration after generation of intelligent 



310 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

Africans look back on its beginnings, as England looks 
back on the days of King Alfred, Ireland of St. Pat- 
rick, Scotland of St. Columba, or the United States of 
George Washington, the name that will be encircled by 
them with brightest honor is that of David Living- 
stone. Mabotsa, Chonuane, and Kolobeng will be 
visited with thrilling interest by many a pilgrim, and 
some grand memorial pile in Ilala will mark the spot 
where his heart reposes. And when preachers and 
teachers speak of this man, when fathers tell their chil- 
dren what Africa owes to him, and when the question 
is asked what made him so great and so good, the 
answer will be, that he lived by the faith of the Son of 
God, and that the love of Christ constrained him to live 
and die for Africa. 



PUBLIC HONORS AWARDED TO DR. LIVINGSTONE. 

A complete list of these honors is not easy to con- 
struct ; the following may be regarded as embracing the 
chief, but it does not embrace mere addresses presented 
to him, of which there were many : 

1850. Royal Geographical Society of London award 
him the Royal Donation of 25 guineas placed 
by Her Majesty at the disposal of the Council 
(Silver Chronometer). 

1854. French Geographical Society award a Silver 
Medal. 

1854. University of Glasgow confer degree of LL.D. 

1855. Royal Geographical Society of London award 

Patron's Gold Medal. 



APPENDIX. 311 

1857. French Geographical Society award annual prize 
for the most important geographical dis- 
covery. 

'1857. Freedom of city of London, in box of value of 
50 guineas, as a testimonial in recognition of 
his zealous and persevering exertions in the 
important discoveries he has made in Africa, 
by which geographical, geological, and their 
kindred sciences have been advanced ; facts 
ascertained that may extend the trade and 
commerce of this country, and hereafter 
secure to the native tribes of the vast African 
continent the blessings of knowledge and 
civilization. 

t^S7' Freedom of city of Glasgow, presented in testi- 
mony of admiration of his undaunted intre- 
pidity and fortitude amid difficulties, priva- 
tions, and dangers, during a period of many 
years, while traversing an extensive region in 
the interior of Africa, hitherto unexplored by 
Europeans, and of appreciation of the impor- 
tance of his services, extending to the foster- 
ing of commerce, the advancement of civiliza- 
tion, and the diffusion of Christianity among 
heathen nations. 

1857. Freedom of city of Edinburgh, of Dundee, and 
many other towns. 

1857. Corresponding Member of American Geographi- 
cal and Statistical Society, New York. 

1857. Corresponding Member of Royal Geographical 
Society of Londoa 



312 THE LIFE OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE. 

1857. Corresponding Member of Geographical Society 
of Paris. 

1857. Corresponding Member of the K. K. Geographic 
' cal Society of Vienna. 

1857. The Faculty of Physicians and Surgeons of 
Glasgow "elect that worthy, eminent, and 
learned Surgeon and Naturalist, David Liv- 
ingstone, LL.D., to be an Honorary Fellow." 

1857. Medal awarded by the Universal Society for the 
Encouragement of Arts and Industry. 

1857. University of Oxford confer degree of D.C.L. 

1857. Elected F.R.S. 

1858. Appointed Commander of Zambesi Expedition 

and Her Majesty's Consul at Tette, Quili- 
mane, and Senna. 

1872. Gold Medal awarded by Italian Geographical 
Society. 

1874. A memoir of Livingstone having been read by 
the Secretary at a meeting of the Russian 
Geographical Society, cordially recognizing 
his merit, the whole assembly — a very large 
one — by rising, paid a last tribute of respect 
to his memory. — Lancet, 7th March, 1874. 













Home - About - Copyright - Contact - Links


www.ourfavouritebooks.com --- Your favourite books + my favourite books = Our Favourite Books